KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: KXcam22 on October 18, 2005, 03:31:41 PM
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I wanted to consolidate the various tidbits of info on the reed spacer:
A reed spacer is one of the best mods going for the KX500 and makes a noticeable improvement in low to midrange power quantity and smoothness. It is even better when combined with good jetting and aftermarket reeds such as the Vforce (or boysen dual-stage for cheapskates like me). Moose racing makes a nice 10mm thick one for cheap or it is very easy to build one out of a 3/8" (10mm) piece of aluminum. You could also use other materials such as phenolic or micarta. 3/8" is the best thickness in terms of carb clearance. I made mine out of 1/2" aluminum but the carb barely clears the frame.
How to build:
From experience, I would recommend no thicker than 3/8". I built mine in under an hour, using a drill press to cut out the inside with a series of small fast holes. Cut the outside contour with a hacksaw and file to a nice finish. The inside contour doesn't see flow so can be left rough. As a suggestion measure the reed cage (don't just trace the gasket) otherwise the spacer may be too large inside. I have some pics in my gallery.
What it does:
The reed spacer increases and focuses the power down lower in the powerband at the slight expense of top end power. The loss of top end is often not noticable. Combined with reeds, this gave my bike the midrange bark I was looking for.
How it works (or at least as I understand it):
The reed tips protrude slightly into the transfer port flow (up & down) at the rear of the cylinder, causing turbulence at the reed tips which impedes the intake flow at lower RPM. The spacer pulls the tips back out of the flow. The increase in intake volume and length also tunes the power lower in the band.
Hope this consolidation helps somebody. Cam.
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Thanks for your indepth reply.
Danger
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Thanks KXcam22 I just bought one and have not installed it yet, the weather is almost too cold now to ride, so I think it will be a spring thing. The insight on theory is always appreciated.
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I still need more INFO!
When I first joined the forum I ask "what mod should I do first"? Unanimously the answer was reed spacer, pipe and V -Force reeds! So I installed a reed spacer and FMF Gnarly pipe and was amazed in the change in performance!
This is my Question: What is the technical explanation for why it works so well? What is the limits in performance based on the thickness of the spacer, the one I installed in my KX5 was .308 inches! What if 1 inch would fit?
So has anyone done any research on when and how they work?
Alan :-D
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I just found this!
Simply put, the Reed Spacer improves the velocity of the air/fuel mixture entering the cylinder. The result is; Increased Mid-Range Horsepower and widening of the midrange (where most of us ride) torque = pulling power. The spacer goes between the cylinder and the reed cage. Why is our kit the best on the market ? Because; First the Trenga Racing Reed Spacer is the correct thickness, determined from bench-flow testing, to give you torque and horsepower gains. Some of the kits being sold aren't even thick enough to do what they are supposed to.
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Soo what is the correct thickness? Do different thickness's make for varying engine torque ranges? Like the thinner the less torque and thicker more low end? Also back in the day, those who knew, used to bead blast the enterance of the intake port. This would mix up the fuel better. As opposed to smoothing the port off to resist drag. So many theorys, so little time, so little money! :|
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Correct, Timbowe. Rough on the intake is supposed to help keep the fuel / air charge atomized, and smooth on the exhaust to help flow. :mrgreen:
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I made my spacer out of 3/8 alumn. This might be stuid but I am going to throw it out there. I was thinking about tuning the thickness of the spacer by adding a extra reed gasket on before I mount the spacer(two gaskets, same as a thicker spacer, maybe three gaskets) What do ya'll think.
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From Boyesen
THE GATEKEEPERS OF POWER
Looking to increase the performance of your Polaris watercraft without making a large investment? Try the new Reed Valve Spacer Kit from Boyesen. The Reed Valve Spacer Kit increases the intake tract length by moving the reed cage away from the crankshaft. This increases the flow volume under the piston and the rear boost ports in the crankcase. In this position, the reeds are allowed to function more efficiently. The action of the reeds are no longer impeded by the adverse effects caused by the rotation of the crankshaft. What you feel is improved low to mid-end response, more torque and horsepower.
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I don't think the spacer helps because of the tranfer port distance. since the ports are in the crankcase their pretty far from the reeds. The change of the length of the intake track is prbibly the main cause of the torque increase. The volume of the crankcase is changed somewhat if the spacer is between the reed cage and the cyl.. The crankcase volume would stay the same if the spacer was between the reed cage and the carb. Has anyone tried this? I've heard that manufactures try to keep the crankcase volume as small as possible to get as much horse power as they can. Putting the spacer between the cage and the carb might be a better way.
Dennis in Arizona
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That's called stuffing the crank case. Some enignes have wasted space inside the crank case. If the fuel/air mix doesn't have to go through or fill these wasted spaces the mixture gets into the combustion camber faster. The kx500 has very little wasted space but some one could stuff the lower end of the crank case. I agree the spacer increase the length of the intake track. If you could shortin the intake track you could make a more higher reving engine. Same goes for the pipes. Longer header pipe can make better power over a wider power band. Shorter pipes will make a short peak power across a narrow power band.
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I just installed my Moose torque spacer, can't wait to try it out. I was very concerned as initially when installing the kit, you are effectively moving the carb and the carb to airbox boot closer to the shock spring. I thought for sure the boot was going to be rubbing up against the spring. After everything was tightened down, and properly put in position, there ended up being a small amount of clearence between the boot and the shock, so all seems ok.
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Yeppers! She be tight! But she make the grunt power!! :lol: :lol:
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A GEORGEOUS day to ride today! Had a lenghtly opportunity to shake down the Moose torque spacer. Overall I am very happy. The torque spacer makes for a far smoother torque hit from off idle right into the midrange. All's I had to do to avoid a huge 20ft. puddle was stand, lean back a bit and abruptly roll the throttle, and instant power wheelie! The biggest advantage I felt with the spacer was the consistancy with the torque. I definately also agree this is a sweet mod to compliment the 5's beastly power. I still need to jet down a bit, but I am running straight CAM II race fuel, and the 5 really likes straight race fuel as far as crisp throttle response. I have an idle dialed into my bike, as I find it much easier to ride trails.
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How do you guys think this would work in conjunction with EG mo-better porting I have?
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Enhansment!
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After owning the reed spacer for almost a year, I finally slipped it into my k5. It did make a difference and right where everyone said it would be, off idle and at low rpm. It was super easy to install, and gave me a chance to look very closely at my reeds. After 240 gallons of fuel through the bike, my reeds look like new. I no longer need the flywheel spacer, as my arms have gotton stronger, and this spacer seems to smooth out the hit a little. I put new rings in the bike at 200 gallons of fuel. When do you guys change the rings ?
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Yes i know its the kx500 forum, but have someone tryed reed spacer on a kx250
for more low power. :?
//Lasse
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Yes i know its the kx500 forum, but have someone tryed reed spacer on a kx250
for more low power. :?
//Lasse
I just ordered and received a Moose torque spacer for my RM250 (the KX500 is still in pieces and in need of a re-plated cylinder). I hope to install it today and give some results by tomorrow afternoon.
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anybody try thicker spacer. like 1/2-3/4 spacers.
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I have thought about a thicker spacer, however it is almost impossible to get to the carb to adjust the needle or change jets with the spacer in anyway. The space is .308 inches, at least this what I measured mine to be before I installed it. The only way I can see to go any thicker would be to make it thicker on one side to straighten out the path so the back of the carb would fit between the frame. That would cause even more boot problems. I think it is probably as thick as you can get it. The only other possibility would be some of the conversions being done to put KX5 motors into aluminum frames and then maybe you could plan for a thicker spacer in your conversion. :-D
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Why Reed Spacers?
Basically, reed spacers allow you to move your power band around depending on placement.
The most common installation for street use is to mount them between the reed block cage and the engine. This will effectively move your power band to a lower rev range and allow you to make better use of the power available for street riding.
The second type of installation is to mount them between the manifold and the reed block cage. This will move the manifold back further and raise the power band for better midrange and top end.
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I bought a '97 K5, that had a Billet Boysen reed cage that had a thicker intake by at least a 1/2". The carb is very close to the frame, and you need to hold your tongue just right to get it back into the air box, but adjusting it is really no different. I can only assume that Boysen is adding some engineering to it though, because it has been on there the whole time. I have asked around about after-market reeds to local experts in the past, and have had mixed responses. Some of them don't think it could even be a noticeable upgrade.
I can't believe how many guys on here really want more out of the 500. I say after a pipe and tire, to get more acceleration think about gearing. Big changes can happen with one tooth on the countershaft
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I know that when I installed my reed spacer the big difference I noticed was that, with the same gearing I could ride one gear higher without bogging down or fowling plugs. It was as though the spacer moved the power band just where I needed it!
Alan :-D :-) :-D
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I bought a '97 K5, that had a Billet Boysen reed cage that had a thicker intake by at least a 1/2". The carb is very close to the frame, and you need to hold your tongue just right to get it back into the air box, but adjusting it is really no different. I can only assume that Boysen is adding some engineering to it though, because it has been on there the whole time. I have asked around about after-market reeds to local experts in the past, and have had mixed responses. Some of them don't think it could even be a noticeable upgrade.
I can't believe how many guys on here really want more out of the 500. I say after a pipe and tire, to get more acceleration think about gearing. Big changes can happen with one tooth on the countershaft
A wise man once said to much horse power is barely adequate. I wish Kawasaki would have made a kx600 with nitrous oxide as a factory option :evil:
Yep, that is like " The Best Is Barely Good Enough" :-D :-D
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I guess I'll be ordering a reed spacer! :-D
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Can anyone tell me how much top end I'll lose with the spacer. I really like the top end hit for open fire-roads. I can't really imagine the spacer taking any horsepower away on the top end. I would think that maybe a rad valve would make up for this loss.
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I'm going to test my 3/4" spacer this weekend.
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My moose spacer came in today. I just need to wait for my Pro-Series reeds... :wink:
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I installed the torque spacer and the boyesen pro reeds today. I definetly think that for well under $100 for both items, this is the best mod for the kx500! I think this site is awesome and I wish it was available 25+ years ago when I was just getting into the sport. Thanks to everyone! :wink:
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I don't want to have to mess with the jetting or anything. My bike is 100% stock, and I like it. If I get a reed spacer will it affect my jetting? I thought about adding a little weight to the fly wheel to smooth it out even more, but if I can get some results with a spacer, maybe the fly wheel weight is not needed. Any information would be Great.
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I put on a reed spacer and a FMF Gnarly pipe and never changed the jetting at 4000 Ft. No problem! I just was easer to start, stopped fowling plugs and could run 1 gear taller in the boondocks without bogging down.
I really don't think jetting is a major issue, just watch the color of the plug and don't let it go to light brown.
Alan :-D
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Why Reed Spacers?
Basically, reed spacers allow you to move your power band around depending on placement.
The most common installation for street use is to mount them between the reed block cage and the engine. This will effectively move your power band to a lower rev range and allow you to make better use of the power available for street riding.
The second type of installation is to mount them between the manifold and the reed block cage. This will move the manifold back further and raise the power band for better midrange and top end.
And what if you do both options???
A 1/4" between the reed block cage and the engine, and a 1/4" between the manifold and the reed block cage???
MORE power from bottom to top :? :?
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When you add 1 reed spacer it moves the carb back against the frame. No room for 2 spacers unless you change how the carb mounts.
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I bought a spacer kit, came with two different thickness spacers, I wanted to use the thicker one, which was about 1/2 to 3/8 inch thick. I ended up using the thinner pacer, which was around 1/4 inch thick because the airbox/carb was hitting the shock... You can't get away with using a very thick spacer becasue of that problem...
I never really noticed a difference anyway.
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After about 80 hours of dyno testing I found that a six and a half inch spacer was good for a 25 horse gain. :wink:
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Did anyone notice a loss of top-end power when doing this mod on the KX500? I am contemplating doing this but I'm steered away at times knowing that this mod (usually) takes away top-end power.
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While I think the spacer mellows the bottom, I personally don't see the deal, I know most swear by them. In my case I use the 250 carb bored to 40mm, the idea being that the slide is moved closer to the piston, the shorter distance helps improve throttle response, this has been a tuner trick for a long time. the 250 carb is much shorter than the 500 carb, so then you add a spacer and it would seem that it would take away response and maybe thats why people like them, they smooth out the "hit". For my money I want instant response.
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After about 80 hours of dyno testing I found that a six and a half inch spacer was good for a 25 horse gain. :wink:
If I use a 13 inch spacer can I get 50 hp :-D or a 191/2" and get 75, there you go I wouldn't even need a motor just a spacer and I'd have apretty hot bike.
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so then you add a spacer and it would seem that it would take away response and maybe thats why people like them, they smooth out the "hit". For my money I want instant response.
I agree with you guys 100%. They mellow it out and that is perfect for most people. Its when you want to start shaving tenths or even hundreths or add another 200 rpm's to you rev that real power is gained. The adverse side of that is that alot of people would consider it too hard to ride. When people say its like riding a bright green rocket with no brakes, it doesn't paint a mental image of alot of controlable riding. The key might actually be to start with a flywheel weight and a spacer and then progress to the after market pipe, lose the weight and spacer. The trick is to tweak the way you intend and to set it up so you can rip as fast and with as much control allowed by that bad a** bike that you have there. :evil:
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At this point in my life (50) I enjoy riding the 250f, I don't get into much trouble, well at least to much. My son competes on a professional level in hillclimbs, I build bikes for him, and I want the most competitive that I can come up with. Like BDI and Stewart I have piles of parts that didn't prove out like I'd hoped, you keep plugging away and hope you hit on something. Like I've said I use the 250 carb on the nitrous bike and the Lectron on the gasser. Personally, for the riding we do, Reed spacers are not in the cards, WE want quick HP and all through the power band. I think spacers are great for trail riders, but wouldn't think they would be good for duners or anybody looking for all out HP. By the way we did use spacers on some of our 125's to pick up a bit of bottom end torque. At the end of the day, I think it depend s on the power curve your looking for, and as an individual you need to tailor it to your needs.
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I ride wide open dunes and drags where top-end is really important. I didnt want to run this spacer if it took anything off the top. I had heard a rumor that the stock KX500 cage sticks too far in and pulling it out a little made more power everywhere, again just a rumor but I wanted to see if anyone on here can verify this. Also which reed assembly gives more top-end power v-force or rad valve?
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stock cage= spacer
v-2,3 no spacer
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If a guy really wanted to make his kx500 have more power on the bottom and be more like a tractor and did not care about sacrificing a little top end what I would do is weld in the bottom corners of the main exhaust port and make it smaller and then bore and replate the cylinder. Take the main exhaust port from being a big square and make it more like a upside down triangle. If you did this you would turn the bike into a billy goat for sure. It would have low end like a harley.
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I agree BDI, good info there. My KX5 is pretty modified ie porting, head rechambered, NOS nitrous, and pvl ignition. The idea of the reed spacer has been tooling around in my mind but never did use it because I didnt want to loose any top-end. I've been debating between the V-Force and Rad Valve cages and by all the replies using the search sounds like the v-force is the way to go. I have been using stock for the longest time and have been happy with them but I like to tinker for more hp but at the same time I really despise spending money on a product that doesn't perform the way I am hoping.
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or you can raise the cylinder with a spacer
wont this also increase crank case volume ?
can i mill of the area where the reeds bolt on to decrease crank case volume?
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BDI..I have a "top end" pipe ...it's a custom made down pipe with a removeable/serviceable silencer..It's was custom built by Gemco ( they make alot of pipe for the RD-350-400 yam. and the triple Kaws ) The previous owner had it made for Road Race/ S. Motard...I'll sell it if you are interested...also I have a custom built reinforced swing arm ( like a crotch- rocket swingarm)..I don't use ...I race MX....E-mail me if your interested............Kerry
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There aren't any real good pics of a reed spacer so I took some. Heres some pics as I cut out the spacer from a 3/8 Aluminum.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/ImmortalSoul219/Reed%20Spacer/Picture054.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/ImmortalSoul219/Reed%20Spacer/Picture057.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/ImmortalSoul219/Reed%20Spacer/CopyofPicture062.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/ImmortalSoul219/Reed%20Spacer/Picture061.jpg)
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I was lazy and bought the Moose kit, the price of two gaskets and longer bolts was almost the same as the Moose kit.
Did you use a plasma cutter for the cuts ? I have a plasma cutter but have never used it on aluminum. I usually just cut aluminum with an end mill in a vertical mill.
Looks like the end result will perform as good as any other. Good Job !
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No I used all hand tools and a drill press. Used a copping saw for the cuts and a file to clean up the cuts. My shops a half hour away and didnt feel like driving out there this morning so I just did it in my garage behind the house. Took me about 2 hours or so. The hole project cost me about a few bucks. The aluminum was free, longer bolts were like 10 cents each and the gasket was like a couple bucks.
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HEY AWESOME COULD ONE OF THESE SPACERS BE MADE OUT OF HARD PLASTIC LIKE THE TYPE A CHAIN GUIDE IS MADE OF, GREAT TO SEE ALL THESE MODS. :mrgreen:
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Can a mod move this to the sticky on this topic by chance? Might be a good place for these pics.
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There is a sticky on reed spacers, that's why you should do a search before you post a question.
This thread moved.
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HEY AWESOME COULD ONE OF THESE SPACERS BE MADE OUT OF HARD PLASTIC LIKE THE TYPE A CHAIN GUIDE IS MADE OF, GREAT TO SEE ALL THESE MODS. :mrgreen:
Yeah if you really wanted too. You can make it out of anything you want but that doesn't mean you should haha.
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I just put in the Moose reed spacer, got my jetting set and what a difference in the low to mid! roll on power wheelies thru every gear. great mod.
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how sells the best reed spacer all this talk about how great it is i dont want to miss out i would appreciate the help
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Moose sells them. I have a used one from my 97 500. send me a pm. I have some other stuff on my thread "xtra parts"
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how sells the best reed spacer all this talk about how great it is i dont want to miss out i would appreciate the help
I sell them.....http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,5028.0.html (http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,5028.0.html)
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Installed the Moose spacer. Bike already has a set of Boy. dual stage reeds. Seems smoother. Amazing how desert riding in the tight stuff how fast you can go on 1/4 throttle or less most of the time. My buddy swears by the RAD valve and V-force. Has one of each in his bike and his brothers. Told him the RAD is " right in Dumpster". Stock would be better and more reliable. Says no way, gained more power with it. None of them can still beat my 02 KX500 that has only a pipe, stock gearing and the reeds. Like the excuses they come up with. How me being 150 pounds is not fair. Going to work on my suspension next. Bike has more than enough power for me as it is. :lol:
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I know this is an old post but here goes, when adding the reed spacer, is it also posssable to add a scary fast modification, or is that deffeting the purpose? I like the idea of adding some bottom to mid range but refuse to give up top end and over rev.
any ideas? if it helps..which comes first the reed spacer then the scary fast mod?
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You could have all the above, "your cake and eat it too".... :-D
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I to know this is an old post,but I have to jump on the Moose band wagon as well.I installed mine and noticed immediately that I could stay one gear higher in alot of situations.I had a '90 that was bone stock and it pulled better off bottom than my '92 with Gnarly and flywheel weight until I installed spacer.I didn't really notice any top-end loss.I'm also going to try a 15 on the front.
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Installed a jfabs reed spacer with the vfore and i must say i like jfabs better than the moose for the k5. The moose spacer did not fit without shaving alittle but jfabs fit perfect. Great upgrade.
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Link to Jfab: http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,5028.0.html
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5MM or 10MM? Someone on ebay selling 5 and 10 mm spacers for the 500. I am considering a spacer to be used with V Force 2 reed block I just purchased. Will I notice a difference? Which one? Is the V Force 2 enough as a stand alone unit? Let me hear your opinions! Fitz
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I run the Vforce 2 without a spacer and the bike performs very well. I have sold them to plenty of guys running the V force 2 reeds. Maybe some of them will chime in and give a report for you.
JFAB
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On my 88 I used the 10mm spacer with the V-Force 2, but the top of the carb hit on the frame so I took it out. The V-Force 2 seems to do a great job by itself with no spacer.
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Nitro ? Whoa ! It's boogey time !
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First trip out with my new 3/8" spacer + VForce3 reeds = new rear fender. Not sure if it's the math or the idiot running the throttle but whatever, I've got a shiny new fender.
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whats ive done is taken the reed spacer of my 86 K5,havent tried it yet with out it so i will be able to give you an honest opinion of these reedspacers which im not convinced are all there cracked up to be!!everybike is different some might be better with them some worst depends on lots of other factors,anyway will update after a ride in the morning.
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where is the next mornings update about the spacer? I know its an old thread Im just dissapointed.
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Hi, I found this old topic. i recently finished a KX500 sf project. I had with the 93 chassis and a 86 motor. the problem: the carburetor behind the cylinder is too high and would not fit under the tank and the airboot. I've then built a wedge from 2mm to 10mm. now the carburetor sits lower. and its perfect to airboot and under the gas tank.
side effect is that I have since made my the same time a spacer. works quite well. a smooth power from bottom to top which makes the 500 easier to ride with these bears performance. 8-)
I have simultaneously built a 10mm reed spacer for my 83 KX250, that i use for vintage racing. now waiting for the spring in germany to get it to install and test, how much more power then bottom and mid range. in stock its from bottom like a modern 125 and then between mid range and top explodes like a rocket. which makes it difficult on hard or slippery ground ride. i want more from bottom to mid range. hope of mid to top is a softer transition with the same peak power.
here I have a few pictures of it on the 500 engine. more to see on my website :-)
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i found the right time today and installed new boyesen reeds, the 10mm-reed spacer and a 4mm exhaust-spacer to my ´83-250 and first soundcheck says: whooohoo... it sounds a little bit diferent and stronger from bottom to mid... more i can say after short testride tomorrow... :mrgreen:
and for everybody: for this mods is important, that the carburetor and airboot have always the right clearance to the frame and shock. also important, that the reeds fit properly to the cage.
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Nice.
I can't wait for the ride report :-)
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Nice.
I can't wait for the ride report :-)
i hope, it will work,like the bike has sounded... if it works, like my imagine, i can ride smoother and faster through hard slippery corners, without the exploding powerband on midrange to top... :mrgreen:... and then i can´t wait for race in 2 weeks..
stay tuned for ride report... :wink:
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ride report...
it works well on my ´83 250, but i took the 4mm exhaust spacer out after first test ride.it where too much at bottom and little bit to less on top.
and second test ride with only the 10mm reed spacer and 2 exhaust seal rings:
--- whooohooo---exactly that what i wanted... :-D :-D :-D
smooth strong powerband from bottom to top with no significant diference on top.
it comes smooth out of the small slippery corners without the big rocket effect, when the rear wheel went out of control and i had to close the throttle ...
now i can also take earlier the higher gears..feels from bottom a little bit like my old ´93 kx250, that i had a long time ago... side effect is the engine starts better in cold.
i had also made an 5mm-reedspacer and some 1mm-gaskets, but now dont needed and goes in my spare parts for later projects. 8-)
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Nice.
I know it's older mods but who cares, people always appreciate it... :-)
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Nice.
I know it's older mods but who cares, people always appreciate it... :-)
the men of steel speak less words and do more action... :-D
only reading is dry theory... and sometimes the older mods are much better than some new experiments...
this theme was new for me and its amazing to feel, how diferent the bike performs now... it will always lift up ihe front tyre in 2. and 3. gear if i turn the throttle to fully open 8-) . the bike never did this before the spacer-mod... engine runs 100% cleaner without the blubbering it sometimes made when heated up in a race distance.
i think this mods i added to my bike, will work also on any modern 125 to find more bottom to midrange-power...
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I put on a reed spacer and a FMF Gnarly pipe and never changed the jetting at 4000 Ft. No problem! I just was easer to start, stopped fowling plugs and could run 1 gear taller in the boondocks without bogging down.
I really don't think jetting is a major issue, just watch the color of the plug and don't let it go to light brown.
Alan :-D
[/quote
Light brown is tan. Tan is good. Now im scared]
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Had a little time on a dyno today. '13 kx500af with some porting
Vf3 reeds with no spacer made 62 peak at the front sprocket
With the spacer it made 58, but way more mid. Same tq from about 6500 to 8500 if I remember right.
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Love to see the charts if you have them..
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anyone running reed spacer on a 87 or 88?
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anyone running reed spacer on a 87 or 88?
I used to run one on my 87.
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anyone running reed spacer on a 87 or 88?
I used to run one on my 87.
Curious to know how it ran? since the 87/88 have loads more case volume than 89on
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Has anyone noticed that the 87 (possibly other earlier years) intake manifold is quite a bit shorter then the newer intakes with the built in stuffer for the reed cage?. I was planning on using my 87 reed cage with the newer manifold with a spacer but I am concerned I would be just adding to the crankcase volume. Curious how the spacer worked on the your 87 Motorrad?
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the inlet tract on the 87/88 is angled a little more downwards which the makes it shorter on top side of reeds
fitting a rad valve will almost hit the piston
I am currently building a 88 and will probably stuff my cases as running a reed spacer seems essential
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Curious about how much volume they actually had, the crank was weighted more which filled the void of the crankcase, unless it had a newer crankshaft in the old case setvid expect them to be very close.
I have them all, might have to get checking that some day