KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: 1FAST450R on March 02, 2016, 01:52:18 AM
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should there be a gasket between the intake boot and the reed cage assembly? i have one between the reed cage assembly and the cylinder. the reason i am asking is because when i start my bike up, it revs to the moon. the po put a thin layer of clear silicone between them and i fear that i have an air leak at that might be the culprit. i took it apart last night and noticed the silicone apparently used as a gasket.
all of the schematics i looked at last night does not show a gasket there but i feel as if it would need one.
thanks!
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I only run one between the cylinder and cage...I'm running a VF2...and I also always run a thin layer of yamabond4 on the mating surfaces.
*EDIT*
I should add, that I only use the yamabond on the cylinder side...intake boot has a raised rib, like an o-ring built into it, so yamabond isn't needed there....and I use the Cometic gasket.
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cool. thanks for the info beaver! well it seems my air leak is not from that. :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
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cool. thanks for the info beaver! well it seems my air leak is not from that. :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
A can of carb cleaner while the bike is running is your friend
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How would i utilize that? The only problem is that when i start it, it will rev like it is wide open. Don't want to grenade it.
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I'd pull the carb and be sure the slide is going all the way back down too...
and be sure the float height is set.
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check your cable routing, be sure there's no tight/stretched spots especially when turning the bars left and right.
and check the adjustment screw up at the throttle housing....you should have no more than an 1/8" of throttle free-play when adjusted correctly.
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What do you run for coolant? Did it freeze by chance and blow a gasket out?
Happened to me when I forgot to drain the cooling system before winter once.
I switched to regular antifreeze after that
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Sorry guys. got busy.lol
i pulled the carb and everything looks fine. the slide goes all the way down and no tight spots on the throttle cable.
I run engine ice coolant. it is kept in a climate controlled garage so there would have been no chance of freezing. looking like a leak down test for me.
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yeah, a leak down would be your best bet...
base gasket looks good?
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everything looks good besides the head gasket. they used some sort of gooey sealant on it. its redish in color and becomes soft when the engine comes up to running temp. i might just do a top end rebuild before i ride it again to get rid of the red junk.
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yeah, there should be no sealer on the base gasket.
when you order your gaskets, go with Cometic....they're a metal gasket, and they have a rubberized coating on them, that acts like a giant o-ring....they won't leak.
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here's there link...
http://www.cometic.com/shop.aspx
PM alward25 too...I believe he gets the base gaskets with the smaller holes for the KIPS valves.
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everything looks good besides the head gasket.
I mis-read this the 1st time...I thought you were referring to the base gasket.
there still should be no sealant on the head...my guess is that the head could be warped to some degree, and/or the cylinder's mating surface isn't flat...you'll need to pull the cylinder studs, and lap the cylinder and the head until they're flat.
Might as well toss in new cylinder studs, and new head nuts too....and with an OEM or Cometic head gasket, it won't leak...unless there's another under lying issue...i.e....a crack in the head.
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I pulled the head off and they just put sealant around the outside edge of the cylinder. but what I found inside is concerning. there is a crack between the kips port and the exhaust port. that should be concerning right? I think it would be time for a repair, replate and top end.
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absolutely....whomever you send the cylinder off to, make sure you let them know it's cracked...take a black Sharpie and mark where it is. Most places are pretty good at looking for, and finding cracks on their own...but you'll be better off pointing it out. Check it really good for others too, around the intake bridges and exhaust.
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probably a good thing I looked at it.lol I already spoke with millennium technologies and plan on sending it to them. I guess a $450+ top end job is cheaper than a total rebuild. :-(
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Is millennium technologies the best place to go? I want to get done correctly so i'm not rebuilding again too soon.
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if you're closer to the west coast, then I'd go with Millenium....if you're closer to the east coast, then I'd go with Power Seal.
Either place is good....it just comes down to "turn-around" time...choosing the one that's closer to you.
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im in Maryland. I will look into Power Seal.
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Power Seal's in Pennsylvania...so it should be the better choice.
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and their prices are cheaper. that is always a plus.
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(http://)(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b442/tdogg125/K5pic1_zpsyoas0ugf.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/tdogg125/media/K5pic1_zpsyoas0ugf.jpg.html)
how does this look in your opinion?
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not that good...hard to give an honest answer without actually having it in hand, but the crack was the 1st thing I noticed...very little, to no cross hatching left in the cylinder walls...it "looks" like the plating started flaking off around the exhaust port.
It's ready for a fresh top end.
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Yep. Exactly what i was thinking. Not bad considering that it was the original top end. I had planned on doing the top end this year anyways. Sucks because the weather is finally starting to turn. Guess I'll just have to ride around on the lazyboy(KQ750) for a while.
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you're definitely going to want lap the cylinder AND head mating surfaces before you start putting it back together!....so when you get it back from the plater, don't put the cylinder studs in until you're absolutely sure the mating surface(s) is/are flat, or you'll stand a good chance of having a head gasket leak...then you'll have to pull it apart again and start over...which is what I'm thinkin the previous owner neglected to do, hence the red sealer.
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Will do. Thanks for all of the info Foxx. I greatly appreciate it.
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(http://)http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b442/tdogg125/k5%20parts_zpsubontgvr.jpg
well i'm sending the cylinder out to powerseal today for repair and plating. got the other goodies in and now its just a waiting game. just in time for the good riding weather!!!!!
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nice!...good to see you got new studs and nuts!.
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yes sir. took your advice on that one. its worth it to make everything fresh. hopefully i can get another 16 years out of this cylinder. i actually called the po (original owner as well) and asked if he ever replaced the top end and he said no. so 15+ years out of a top end isn't bad.lol
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(http://)http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/tdogg125/media/K5%20parts%20Cylinder_zpsco86tsi7.jpg.html
Things are about to get fun again!
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ahhh Wossner!...
be sure to check your piston to cylinder clearances and ring-end gap before you start putting back together....just to be sure all's good.
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i got the piston through Powerseal. they fit it for me. one problem. i went to put it all together yesterday and the welding they did interfered with my kips drum going all the way in. i was worried about the warranty if i went in there and deburred it. got the ok to get it from powerseal so i will be hopefully be riding it tonight! :-D
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Kevin at PowerSeal has been great to me....he's takin a cylinder back and re-did it 3 times over 2 weeks until I was happy a couple years ago...all at his cost, including shipping costs!
I have nothing but good things to say about PowerSeal.
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They will have all of my business from here on out. Very professional. I wasn't to pleased with the turn around time but i knew the duration going into it. They even sent me a t shirt on Friday on their own in a separate package. At their expense. Great work and good people to deal with.
Now if only the rain would go away. too muddy to do any riding here in Maryland.
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bastard :lol:....I didn't get a t-shirt.
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(http://)http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/tdogg125/media/K5_zpsx2bnufyf.jpg.html?filters[user]=144832222&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0
Well she is all back together! Fired up on the second kick.
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(http://)http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/tdogg125/media/K5_zpsx2bnufyf.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
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(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b442/tdogg125/K5_zpsx2bnufyf.jpg)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b442/tdogg125/K5%20parts%20Cylinder_zpsco86tsi7.jpg)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b442/tdogg125/k5%20parts_zpsubontgvr.jpg)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b442/tdogg125/KX5Crank_zpsaepey6fk.jpg)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b442/tdogg125/K5pic2_zpsgne5xu5u.jpg)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b442/tdogg125/K5pic1_zpsyoas0ugf.jpg)
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Thanks Sandblaster! I'll figure it out eventually. :-D
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well she is all back together! Fired up on the second kick.
awe...you musta done something wrong....you shoulda had to kick that thing til you were blue in the face! :lol:
just kiddin, that's awesome...looks nice and clean too!
post a video of it running when you get time.
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i also figured out the high reving situation. the throttle cable was all twisted up because is was lazy and didn't put it together correctly when i had my triples off to change the stem bearings which made the slide go up in the carb. i fixed that and its good to go now. Boy what a difference in compression. didn't even fell like the same bike. thanks for all the help and advice guys!!!!
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i also figured out the high reving situation. the throttle cable was all twisted up because is was lazy and didn't put it together correctly when i had my triples off to change the stem bearings which made the slide go up in the carb. i fixed that and its good to go now. Boy what a difference in compression. didn't even fell like the same bike. thanks for all the help and advice guys!!!!
ahhh....I had mentioned that in the beginning....good you got that squared away.