KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: DP3601 on January 15, 2016, 12:55:41 AM
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I recently took on the project of rebuilding a 2004 KX 125. I have completed everything except the motor. I am in need of some help or suggestions as to a problem:
It runs great at low to mid rpm's. When you really get the rpm's up in the higher range there is what feels like a serious vibration coming from the motor. First thought was loose motor mounts. But nothing was loose. I also pulled the top end to look at the crank as well as the both engine covers to see if I could feel any play in the bearings. Any ideas what this might be?
Any help would be appreciated.
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did you actually measure the play in the big end bearing on the crank?...it could be past it's service limit.
does the magneto/flywheel look ok?
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did you actually measure the play in the big end bearing on the crank?...it could be past it's service limit.
does the magneto/flywheel look ok?
The flywheel looks brand new, in really good shape. I did not measure the play. How would you go about measuring the play. Im kind of a rookie at this...
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with feeler gauges...I couldn't tell you what the service limit is on an '04, the manual I have doesn't go that high...but in the one I have, the service limit is .70mm for side clearance...and .10mm for radial clearance....but that's for a 1990.
you can either call your local Kawie dealer for the specs, or wait a little while, and someone on here might be able to tell you.
wondering if it could possibly be clutch related too...unfortunately, you may end up having to completely break it down to find the culprit...but see if anyone else has some advice before going too far yet.
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with feeler gauges...I couldn't tell you what the service limit is on an '04, the manual I have doesn't go that high...but in the one I have, the service limit is .70mm for side clearance...and .10mm for radial clearance....but that's for a 1990.
you can either call your local Kawie dealer for the specs, or wait a little while, and someone on here might be able to tell you.
wondering if it could possibly be clutch related too...unfortunately, you may end up having to completely break it down to find the culprit...but see if anyone else has some advice before going too far yet.
Thanks for the information, it is very much appreciated.
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I would look at the big end closely with a good light and a magnifying glass , any greyness on the bearing and its history actually the parts are not to dear , I would put a new big end in and new main bearings and seals, I have a 08 kx125 since new that I kept and had a few season under it belt , I would put a big end in it than the next time it was due a hole crank as the stuffers start to bugger up , I only used oem on the bottom end , they are reliable but the top ends need constant rebuilds with a fast rider on board no more than 6 hrs and change the ring or else they wear the exhaust bridge I also drill the 2 holes on the piston a fraction bigger to allow better lubrication , seem to help also check clutch bearing and plates in case a fibre has broken had that happen on a kx85, another thing I always new when it was time to do the bottom end on it , it always started to vibrate more, hope that helps.
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I am going to go ahead and pull the bottom end apart and refresh the complete thing. Not knowing how it was cared for from the previous owner(s). That being said I will go ahead and replace the crank. I have read nothing but mostly bad reviews on aftermarket cranks. Anyone have any experience with these. OEM seems to be the best way to go.
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that's a good plan...it's always best to rebuild/replace as much as your wallet will allow, as this will help ensure the reliability of it.
I myself, have heard nothing but bad, bad things about Hot Rod cranks...bad...to the point that my local dealer stopped getting them for customers.
OEM is a very good choice, but I'm not sure you'll find a complete crank available, call and ask your Kawie dealer to check and see if they're available first...you might have to get a rod, big end bearing, etc separately, then rebuild your current crank....but if you have to go that route, consider going with Wossner, as they're rods and pistons are actually quite a bit better than OEM and other aftermarket products.
If you decide to go with Wossner, speak up...as there's a couple good members on here that can set you up with what you'll need.
you can check out Wossner here...
http://www.wossnerpistons.com/
good luck, and keep us posted.
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I can get a complete OEM crank from the dealer for a cool $255. The Wossner is a cheaper route to go. Any suggestions on who can rebuild a crank with this kit and what it will take?
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check your PM's.
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It looks like the previous owner had put a Anthea cylinder kit on the bike. All looks great but I did order a new piston kit and gasket kit for their top end. It comes with two base gaskets. I have tried to contact Athena and ask if I need to have both gaskets put in but have not got an answer. Does any one know about this and if it is necessary to have both?
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one of them may be thicker than the other, to allow you to change port timing.
I've never used an Athena kit before, so there's a chance I could be wrong...maybe someone else that's familiar with their kits can shed some light on it...or wait until Athena gets back to you.
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It looks like the previous owner had put a Anthea cylinder kit on the bike. All looks great but I did order a new piston kit and gasket kit for their top end. It comes with two base gaskets. I have tried to contact Athena and ask if I need to have both gaskets put in but have not got an answer. Does any one know about this and if it is necessary to have both?
You need to check your deck height first & then your squish clearance.
DoldGuy
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Athena finally got back to me and they said they include two base gaskets in their kits, they have the standard thickness and a thinner one to increase compression, but only are suppose to use one. FYI for anyone that might have that same question.
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post some pics of your project when you get a chance :wink:...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10040.0.html
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Good news! A rep from Athena called me to check on how things were coming out with the top end kit that I had asked questions about. He told me that the cylinder for my 2004 KX 125 should only be using a flat top piston because of the clearance for the head. When I pulled it apart the previous owner had put in a domed piston and used two base gaskets to try and make the clearance work out. When I pulled the piston it had a ring around the top that was indented into the piston. He suggested that it was possible that when I got it to the higher rpm it was hitting the head.
Needless to say I put it back together to try it out with the correct piston before tearing the bottom end completely apart. There is no vibration at all in the higher RPM's like before. I rode it for two days pretty hard and it runs like really good. I will eventually tear the bottom end down and replace bearings and seals since it has most likely never been done before.
I still have some more rebuilding to continue to get it better in other areas but so far so good. I will post some pics this week of progress.
Thanks again for all the info and suggestions from everyone that did.
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wow....quite a turn of events...luckily that top end didn't grenade itself and really cause a mess.
have to remember those symptoms next time I or someone else comes up with a similar issue.
Roost on!
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Finally got some time to post a few pics of the KX 125 I have been working on.
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20151014_155202_zpsz6llnu9m.jpg)
This is where I started, picking up a KX125 and KLX 110 for $1550 after talking to the seller.
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20151016_182940_zps8eizdxdu.jpg)
Making the trip home finally after a 4 1/2 hour drive south!
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20151027_084247_zps46wfcwk7.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20151027_084258_zpsvmlnufof.jpg)
Not a bad bike to start with...
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160224_093223_zpsz0invhz1.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160224_093232_zps7ytfb2dk.jpg)
The forks were in bad shape, lower legs were pitted like they had been rode in gravel with out the fork guards and uppers were flaking off, rear shock was completely blown.
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160224_093551_zpsk2g8s9ti.jpg)
I took the suspension to Enzo to be rebuild and they said the forks would never hold a seal with the pits so thanks to Ebay I found this whole front end for half of what one lower tube would cost.
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20151215_141209_zpsodxzwiam.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20151215_141151_zpsjjbgildm.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160224_093816_zpshfop4zhg.jpg)
Suspension Complete!
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that 125 looks dam near new...
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20151027_084247_zps46wfcwk7.jpg)
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160224_093649_zpsaaiudmxv.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160224_093635_zpsdatgqs1y.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160218_192450_zpshana7far.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160103_114157_zpskdxxwoxd.jpg)
Some more of the work in progress!
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160107_210028_zpsuv3q4tdy.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160107_205905_zpschjtdfbq.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160107_205829_zpswvcu7dri.jpg)
The top end when I took it apart the first time.
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I am looking in to cleaning up the cases, cylinder etc when I tear down the 125 next time. What is the best process for getting that shine back on these parts? I have read on here that there are a few good options. I have always done the scotch brite pad route in my past but that becomes pretty time consuming.
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send your stuff to Sandblaster....look through all 4 pages of this thread....
this is how your parts will look when he's done...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,13401.0.html
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there's also soda blasting...which you can do right at home, for very cheap...but it'll never look as good as Sandblasters vapor blasting.
soda blaster...
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/
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Wow that vapor blasting is amazing. Better then factory! Thanks Foxx4Beaver for the info. I may try the soda blasting first on my sons KLX and see if I am happy with it then if not move to the vapor blasting.
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no problem.
be sure to take "before & after" pics, so we can see the difference. :wink:
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Has anyone ever used powder coating on your frame? How durable is it or is it better to just repaint with the factory paint? I have the motor pulled doing some work to it and figure this is about as good a time as any to do it.
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I pulled the motor to replace some oil seals and decided to pull the power valve cover to take a look. When I pulled the cover it was full of black oil. I cleaned this when I did the top end last time. What would cause this as I don't think this is normal. It has been smoking quite a bit but I have it jetted right on. Any ideas?
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if it's "jetted right on", it shouldn't be smoking a lot.
there is a seal on the KIPS shaft...part number 92049-1238, and if it's worn/leaking, then it will show a little more black oil than normal when you pull the cover.
you could have a bad clutch side crank seal too...which would allow it to suck tranny fluid and burn it, causing the excessive smoking...a possibility.
and if it does have a bad crank seal, you'll never get it jetted correctly.
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if it's "jetted right on", it shouldn't be smoking a lot.
there is a seal on the KIPS shaft...part number 92049-1238, and if it's worn/leaking, then it will show a little more black oil than normal when you pull the cover.
you could have a bad clutch side crank seal too...which would allow it to suck tranny fluid and burn it, causing the excessive smoking...a possibility.
and if it does have a bad crank seal, you'll never get it jetted correctly.
[/quote
There is a lot of oil. It poured out when I pulled the cover. I have been lucky not to pull the cases apart but I think its time to just do it.]
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I have been lucky not to pull the cases apart but I think its time to just do it.
yup...then you'll know what you have, and can start fresh with a tight motor.
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When I pulled the exhaust valve cover this is what poured out... Not good!
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160418_183541_zpsmb7jd4t5.jpg)
Ive been putting off splitting the cases so I decided it was time to replace the bearings and seals through out the engine so I know it would be nice and tight.
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160407_203735_zpss5hpnmrc.jpg)
Motor pulled, trying to decide if I want to powder coat the frame while she's apart.
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160407_174818_zpsyble33b5.jpg)
Motor pulled and it begins..
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160407_174757_zpsur8buwkf.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160418_182824_zpsivk04zu2.jpg)
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160423_210035_zps6amb7ffs.jpg)
Pulled the cover off and they had no gasket, so there is a little bit of a mess I need to clean up.
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160424_095031_zpsdyi7qd4t.jpg)
I hope I remember how to put this all back together. Good thing for a service manual..
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160427_221855_zpsik5msrsk.jpg)
The cases are looking pretty rough on the outside. I planned to send these to member sandblaster to have these done but unexpected expenses causes me to save that till another time.
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160427_221814_zpsnk6bafd4.jpg)
So I have been working on these with scotch brite and some elbow grease. My fingers are sore!
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160503_171511_zpssibskfef.jpg)
The assembly begins
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Has anyone had experience with power coating their frame? How lone does it last and is it durable?
I have always repainted with color rite paint and it of course doesnt last to long. I am debating going with the green frame as I was never a big fan of the gray frame that came on this originally.
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powder coating is the only way!...very durable. 8-)
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powder coating is the only way!...very durable. 8-)
Looks like that will be the next project on this bike maybe for the winter. Time to get it all back together and ride for now!
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/IMG_20160510_140020_zpseicysrvl.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160510_135018_zpszxjmbadc.jpg)
Got it back together ready to drop back into the frame.
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lookin good....
the cases didn't come out too bad for doing it the old fashioned way..(Man-u-el labor) :mrgreen:
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lookin good....
the cases didn't come out too bad for doing it the old fashioned way..(Man-u-el labor) :mrgreen:
Im pretty happy with it, lots of hours of that manual labor... I had picked up a few add ons as you can see that made it look better than stock. I am just waiting on a couple motor mount bolts that needed replaced and she will be back in action! :-D
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I have searched for this all over but cant find the offset for the triple clamps on my 2004 KX 125. Does anyone know where I can find this or know what it is?
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I cant stop wanting to do more to this bike. My wife says I have an addiction. Yep I do! I got new plastic and am looking at graphics now. I have always been a fan of the splitfire days at pro circuit and found these.
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/KAWASAKI%20KXF%20MOTOCROSS%20GRAPHICS%20KIT%20SPLITFIRE%20GREEN-1000x750_zpsjcyrwp3f.jpg)
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nice!....those will look sharp.
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I am looking at cleaning up the swing arm on this 125. What luck has anyone had with different ways to go about this. Paint, polish or any other?
Thanks
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I stripped the paint off of two of our swingarms down to the bare aluminum using multiple cycles of Aircraft Paint Stripper & steel wool/scotchbrite pads. Managed to get a nice clean factory finish (going just heavy enough on the elbow grease to remove the paint, but not the machined finish). From a wear & tear standpoint (heavy woods & rock use with lots of sharp gougey things), bare aluminum rather then powder coat or paint looks the best in the long-run.
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I stripped the paint off of two of our swingarms down to the bare aluminum using multiple cycles of Aircraft Paint Stripper & steel wool/scotchbrite pads. Managed to get a nice clean factory finish (going just heavy enough on the elbow grease to remove the paint, but not the machined finish). From a wear & tear standpoint (heavy woods & rock use with lots of sharp gougey things), bare aluminum rather then powder coat or paint looks the best in the long-run.
Thanks, I will have give it that a try. I am looking to get that factory look!
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(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160703_114638_zpsi7xafvxv.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160703_114701_zpshr4laf5t.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160703_114653_zpsldrjqmyw.jpg)
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160702_212913_zpsqhf7odby.jpg)
I finally got the new graphics and plastic. This thing turned out amazing from what I started with.
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160703_132116_zpsbeslt3st.jpg)
I think she looks better with a little dirt on her.
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Man, that did turn out great. Awesome job
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that thing looks like it belongs under the Factory Kawie tent!!
(http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b431/DP8201/20160703_114653_zpsldrjqmyw.jpg)
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Nice!
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Thanks to everyone that gave input on this rebuild. Hopefully I can help someone when they have questions going forward. I enjoyed it so much that I will be looking for a 250 to do next.
Sandblaster Ill be sending parts out for Vapor on the next bike.. that will be the cherry on top!
I had a question for Foxx but cant get through on pm at the moment.
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Back at it doing more to this bike. I am looking to replace the triple clamps. I have found a set from Bud Racing but the offset is different. Stock says 25mm offset and theirs is 23mm. Does 2mm change the handling a lot or not? And I would imagine that the shorter offset would make the wheel base shorter or is it opposite?
Thanks for any information
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Two millimeters can make a pretty big difference. It should slow the steering down and make the bike more stable. Some models benefit greatly from this (such as the KX250F with 22 mm clamps), while others really change for the negative. Of course it really depends on where you ride and what you want to accomplish. My two cents would be if you like the bike now for the riding you are doing, don't make the change.
Maybe KXDino has some more info on this. He is very knowledgeable on different frames and years.
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Two millimeters can make a pretty big difference. It should slow the steering down and make the bike more stable. Some models benefit greatly from this (such as the KX250F with 22 mm clamps), while others really change for the negative. Of course it really depends on where you ride and what you want to accomplish. My two cents would be if you like the bike now for the riding you are doing, don't make the change.
Maybe KXDino has some more info on this. He is very knowledgeable on different frames and years.
Thanks for the information. It handles great just wanted to find some aftermarket clamps, no luck so I will just polish up the stock and stay with it.
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Has anyone had any luck with with a specific brand of clutch plates? I put a set of tusk in, yeah I went cheap and they are spent already. In the past OEM has been my best luck.
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I know guys that've used Barnett clutches with no problems...
I myself have always stuck with OEM.
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I just replaced the front brake line with a steel braided line. I have been doing the bleeding process to get the air out but I am not getting the brake to pump up with any pressure. There is brake fluid running through the system and no air bubbles are coming out now. Does anyone have any ideas on what I might be doing wrong or what the issue could be?
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sometimes the fronts can take bit to pump up....I like to gravity bleed them for several minutes 1st, by loosening the bleeder, then just keep pouring fluid into the reservoir for a while, and let it run out into a clean jar from the bleeder....just don't let the reservoir go empty.
then after a few minutes of that, they'll usually pump up fairly quick.
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sometimes the fronts can take bit to pump up....I like to gravity bleed them for several minutes 1st, by loosening the bleeder, then just keep pouring fluid into the reservoir for a while, and let it run out into a clean jar from the bleeder....just don't let the reservoir go empty.
then after a few minutes of that, they'll usually pump up fairly quick.
Worked like a charm! I should have ask sooner and saved myself an hour. Thanks again
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:wink:
It's the only method I use ...on bikes, cars/trucks.
The plunger in the master is so small, that it takes forever to pump out all those tiny, tiny bubbles.
I do the rears the same way...but it's a bit more involved...as you need to put the bike on a stand, remove the rear wheel, and slide the caliper off the carrier, then rest the caliper on a brick/piece of wood , or whatever you have to keep the caliper from hangin by just the hose.
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Two millimeters can make a pretty big difference. It should slow the steering down and make the bike more stable. Some models benefit greatly from this (such as the KX250F with 22 mm clamps), while others really change for the negative. Of course it really depends on where you ride and what you want to accomplish. My two cents would be if you like the bike now for the riding you are doing, don't make the change.
Maybe KXDino has some more info on this. He is very knowledgeable on different frames and years.
Going from a 25mm offset to a 23mm offset will have the opposite effect from what you describe.
The steering will be quicker and the bike will be less stable down long high speed straights and through braking bumps to the point you might experience head shake.
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Has anyone put the SSS forks off of a YZ onto the front of your bike? These are always said to be some of the best forks. Just curious what I can find for information on this or what anyone has done out there.....
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I also have a 2004 kx125. Enjoyed reading your posts and I've also been reading
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/2005-KX125-Build,1295539?page=2 posts on Vitalmx. I'm currently slightly modifying mine. It already has a FMF exhaust with the stock muffler when I bought it, which I'll most likely keep on it. I'm installing a Boyesen Rad Reed cage and rejetting it. It had V-Force valves (first version) and has 12T front and 51T rear sprockets.
Next upgrades: replace chain (w/ RK GB520MXU) and sprockets (don't know if I'll go with 12 or 13 tooth front), sliders and chain guide (w/ TM Designworks kit), and install Fasst rear brake return spring and brake clevis.
I don't do much track riding anymore, mostly woods riding, and this has been a fun lightweight bike to ride. This bike makes my last bike, a '98 KX250, feel like a tractor.
Next year, I'll plan on having my suspension re-done, probably by Pro-Circuit.
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I also have a 2004 kx125. Enjoyed reading your posts and I've also been reading
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/2005-KX125-Build,1295539?page=2 posts on Vitalmx. I'm currently slightly modifying mine. It already has a FMF exhaust with the stock muffler when I bought it, which I'll most likely keep on it. I'm installing a Boyesen Rad Reed cage and rejetting it. It had V-Force valves (first version) and has 12T front and 51T rear sprockets.
Next upgrades: replace chain (w/ RK GB520MXU) and sprockets (don't know if I'll go with 12 or 13 tooth front), sliders and chain guide (w/ TM Designworks kit), and install Fasst rear brake return spring and brake clevis.
I don't do much track riding anymore, mostly woods riding, and this has been a fun lightweight bike to ride. This bike makes my last bike, a '98 KX250, feel like a tractor.
Next year, I'll plan on having my suspension re-done, probably by Pro-Circuit.
Its been a fun bike to work on. I have plans for it now that we are in the new year. I am looking at a new set of wheels, powdercoating the frame and getting some carbon fiber from lightspeed.
I have found that I like the gearing stock but if I ride anything tight I do throw on a one tooth bigger sprocket to pull me around. I am not your typical 150 pound 125 rider!
You cant go wrong with suspension from pro circuit but for less money I have been VERY impressed with Enzo. It is some of the best suspension I have ever used. It helps they have a local place I can drop it off and not have to ship.
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I found out last month that my KX125 that I purchased as an '04 is actually an '03. It really bugs me when I purchase an ATV or dirtbike when there is no title or records available. I still enjoy riding it more than the old '98 KX250 I had. One way to distinguish between the '03 and the later models is that there's an extra hole in the swingarm in the later models where the suspension linkage hooks up. I'm still keeping an eye out for an '04 or '05 and this '03 that I have would make a nice spare bike and for friends to use.
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Wanted to see if anyone has an answer on this one. The hose that comes off the side of the cylinder where the valves are is starting to pour out black oil. I opened this up and it is full of oil. Any ideas what would be causing this?
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what your fuel to oil ratio , even at 40 to 1 a little bit comes out , not much though , is your jetting rich ?
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what your fuel to oil ratio , even at 40 to 1 a little bit comes out , not much though , is your jetting rich ?
I run it at 32:1. In my racing days I always ran 40:1 with the engine work done. The bike is bone stock except for a boyesen rad valve and power wing I was siding on the 32:1 to be safe. Jetting is spot on. Do you think I need to run it at 40:1?
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It up to you of course ,32 to 1 is good myself i run 40 to 1 on all my 2 strokes from 144 to 500 , motorex oil , the 250 get a drop coming out of that pipe but no oil get to the back of the muffler , the 144 which is a 08 kx125 has had major porting and uses a wossner yz 144 flat top piston with a machined vhm head to suit , goes hard with a wide power band but it had to be jetted up to survive as more power = more fuel.
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It up to you of course ,32 to 1 is good myself i run 40 to 1 on all my 2 strokes from 144 to 500 , motorex oil , the 250 get a drop coming out of that pipe but no oil get to the back of the muffler , the 144 which is a 08 kx125 has had major porting and uses a wossner yz 144 flat top piston with a machined vhm head to suit , goes hard with a wide power band but it had to be jetted up to survive as more power = more fuel.
Thanks, I think I will try that at 40:1 and watch the jetting so I dont end up to lean.
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It up to you of course ,32 to 1 is good myself i run 40 to 1 on all my 2 strokes from 144 to 500 , motorex oil , the 250 get a drop coming out of that pipe but no oil get to the back of the muffler , the 144 which is a 08 kx125 has had major porting and uses a wossner yz 144 flat top piston with a machined vhm head to suit , goes hard with a wide power band but it had to be jetted up to survive as more power = more fuel.
Thanks, I think I will try that at 40:1 and watch the jetting so I dont end up to lean.
Thanks KXDINO, that cleaned it right up and running better and much crisper!!
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Hey everyone I am having some clutch issues on this 04 KX125. This is the second time this has happened in less then a year. I put in a set of clutch plates and they didnt last that long. I used a Tusk kit and learned going a little more inexpensive was not the smart way to go. So I went ahead and put an OEM set back in when I replaced those about 5 months ago. The issue is it feels like the clutch is not releasing all the way. I have pulled apart the clutch and inspected the basket for wear. There is a little bit of wear but not hardly enough to even feel it.
Does anyone have any ideas on what could be the problem?