KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: Danger4u2 on November 04, 2015, 05:20:33 AM
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This is for the person that bought, acquired or owns a bike that's been sitting for some time.
I haven't messed with my 2004 KX500 since I bought my 2011 BMW R1200GSA back in 2/2014.
Here's a picture to give you an idea how fun this bike is. Runs almost like a sport bike
but still has the ability to jump a curb or hit easy trails. Some use them on hard core trails-not me.
The extra set of wheels make it a very versatile bike.
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So now you see why I have neglected the K5. As I or you get older your priorities change.
This story starts in a different way. It takes something or someone to get the spark going in
a person sometimes. In this case it was a new member, umberto. I haven't met him
but he lives near me.
He joined January 14, 2015. He invited me to ride at CrossTimbers off-road riding area recently.
It dawned on me I don't have a dirt bike that's ready to ride. I have 3 stock k5's to chose from so
I went with the one I know about all the history. My 2004 I bought new in mid 2004. It's a low hour bike that doesn't have a lot of wear. So, if the bike your working with was wore out and put up dirty this will help but won't have all the answers you need. I'm going to post a picture of a problem that's very gory.
If your getting ready to eat or have a queasy stomach you might want to pass.
I will add to the story as I find time. This was a street legal bike, don't know if I will bring it up to legal status....this has to be a budget build.
I have a good start for this project....
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cool plate.
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Verrrrry Interesting... I hope this story does not have you getting injured on your K5... I have only started mine and ridden it around the yard and up and down the street one time in the last 6 months. Have bought three bikes and sold two in that amount of time but the K5 remains.
I will be 61 in a couple weeks and have what can only be described as a 'shredded' right shoulder that has been worked on twice before and will be worked on again soon in a last ditch effort to stabilize it. My priorities have changed from 'doing what I want' to 'preserving something' that I will be able to use 'some' for the next 20 years.
Life is a series of adjustments. Sigh.
Bike looks good. I like the plate too!
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Now I'm dying to see what you're going to post that is gory. :-D
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I did the injury back on December 16 of 2004. Ruptured patella tendon.
I'm in this for fun and going home unhurt. I did start doing a light workout
2 months ago and recently revamped the road bicycle. I'm pushing 59 years
old so everything in moderation. A few more pic in the camera and I will down
load.
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I normally ride with slower riders and guys on utility 4 wheelers, so you don't have to worry too much about me pushing the pace. :-D
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Sorry about that, I thought I had the gory picture on the last set
I down loaded. I had this guy get in my garage. Mess with my k5,
I don't think so. He must have been a University of Texas/Longhorn fan because he
took my University of Oklahoma/Sooner hat and shredded it.
So I gave him a Texas necklace.
I think he got his tail into the glue trap I set out
a few days before the Victor trap.
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Wow, that thing looks like a small dog! Are you sure your neighbors aren't missing a yippy dog?
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Ok back to the bike. I've been guilty of not securing the bike before
working on it. I all most dropped my Kawi Concours on me from the
lift. I always start with straps since then.
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I got lazy and didn't drain the gas because I kept saying "I'll ride next weekend".
Now it's been the better part of a year since I rode the bike.
It's only a few bolts or just pop the fuel line at the petcock and drain the gas
back into your gas can. Speaking of the gas can, the gas smelled ok because it's
one of the self sealing metal cans. But don't risk it. I dumped it and I'm starting with
fresh gas and oil. When I say "dumped it" save the planet for your kids, dispose of
properly. I use mine to start fires when we burn brush piles at my track behind the shop.
I don't need to say it but the bad gas stained my tank and looks ugly. Plus it gummed up my carburetor.
When I first installed my desert tank I notice it sat dangerously close to the after market FMF pipe so I added a strip of pipe wrap fabric between the two. It melted into the tank.
This time I'm adding a few strips of heat tape, on the tank and both sides of the pipe wrap.
Finish with wire to keep in place.
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This is for the person that bought, acquired or owns a bike that's been sitting for some time.
I haven't messed with my 2004 KX500 since I bought my 2011 BMW R1200GSA back in 2/2014.
Here's a picture to give you an idea how fun this bike is. Runs almost like a sport bike
but still has the ability to jump a curb or hit easy trails. Some use them on hard core trails-not me.
The extra set of wheels make it a very versatile bike.
Wow! Does that thing have reverse too?
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Some times I wish it had reverse. Parking lot with a slope to the curb.
I don't even get on the bike, can't push it back very easy sitting on the bike.
It does have electronic suspension that I like and ABS I can turn off.
The new BMW's are unreal with lean sensors, traction control.........
An on going theme of this thread will be clean as you go.
I will do a few things that others won't . Like take the subframe
apart to clean the air box. I used No Toil air filter oil, it takes No Toil
cleaner to get rid of No Toil filter oil. Soap and water or solvent make it
a gooey mess. I've seen No Toil break down air filters, some very fast.
So I'm going back to the tried and true Bel Ray Foam Filter Oil.
You can clean it with solvent then soap and water.
I may get a little over simplistic but this thread is for the guy that wasn't born
knowing everything. Look at the goo in there. Look how clean the carb side
is. Clean air filters are much cheaper than new motors.
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I'll mention little things like, you've cleaned the carb, make sure to clean the petcock with spray carb
cleaner and swish the tank with fresh mix gas. Run it through the petcock and dump the rest.
Here's a good indicator my jetting was close but off. Or more likely I rode into the next season
and should have rejetted for the temperature change. While you have the carb apart, write down
your main and pilot jet numbers. Don't forget the clip position on the needle.
When you can, stick the bolts back into the hole they came out of.
When you can't, stick them in baggies and write where they go on the bag. Or better yet write it on
a piece of paper and stick it in the bag.
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I'm a Bel Ray fan, ratio rite cup also. If you do lots of riding and use
up the gas without storing the gas, plastic gas cans are fine.
But storage of gas in plastic makes for to much oil because the gas
evaporates. It's called out gassing. When money allows, get a quality
metal gas can and label what you did. Some say your gas will stay good
for 3 months. I like to use it up in no more than 2 months just to be safe.
I'm talking 100% gas that is readily available here in Oklahoma.
Gas with ethanol breaks down real fast, I don't recommend it at all for 2 strokes.
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After cleaning the carb, tank, petcock, air box, new air filter and fresh mixed gas
there are a few things over looked. Repack the muffler. Check the reed cage.
I'm using the stock reeds and cage on this bike. I do have a reed spacer, it's about
3/8 of an inch. Upon inspection of my reeds I found one to have a small chip on the
corner. I'll get a picture in a few day before I put everything back together.
The chip is an issue but it still seals. I plan to get the bike running with it.
After that I have 2, I've heard, hard to find V Force Delta 2 reed cages
made by Moto Tassinari. I'm not up on the how and why of a reed spacer
and the V Force cage, I'll have to go through some of the old threads to check it out.
Stock cage on the left.
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D'ont think using the reed spacer would do any harm / even though the vf2 may not block the boost port like other reeds
89on motor had a way lower crankcase volume than the 87/88 motors that the main reason i think the reed spacer on 89on motor should work good
Even with a reed spacer the 89on motor will still not be near the case volume of the 87/88 motor
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Hey Dave thanks for the insight.
Feel free to chip in here, I'm not to old to learn something new.
We have, on kxriders, quite a bit about reed spacers but I also found surfing around
on dirtriders.com... an Eric Gorr post,
This is what a reed spacer does;
1) Increase the volume in the crankcase
2) Lengthen the intake tract
3) Lengthen the distance from the piston face to the reed tips
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/reed-spacers-and-the-two-stroke.57662/
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So you have the holy grail of reeds just laying around???? :lol:
I couldn't find my post on here about getting the most out of it but here is a link to the Motorrad method
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=484#p1945 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=484#p1945)
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Great write up, thanks for the link. I knew the ears had to be cut off but after you
finished, your work looks like it came from the factory.
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I have a solution to the lack of use... Give me your BMW
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So you have the holy grail of reeds just laying around???? :lol:
I couldn't find my post on here about getting the most out of it but here is a link to the Motorrad method
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=484#p1945 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=484#p1945)
My 500 motor came with one of those reed blocks, and I didn't use it for exactly the reasons you listed in your post. Thank you to Sandblaster and Motorrad for showing me how to make it work!
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Great to hear from you again my good man! Those Beemers apear to be pretty tough,
there's a show called "Long Way Round" where two guys document their travel across europe and end up in New York. I'm pretty sure it's on netflix or amazon prime.
Anyway, glad to see your doing well 8-),
Tuck\o/
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Hey, Friar-Tuck,
Yes I've seen that show.
I thought I would add some content as I get my k5 out of retirement.
When you remove the subframe be careful not to break this white plastic piece,
take your time and flex it out of the way
I use this tool a lot, it's sold as a cotter key remover but it works great for breaking loose radiator hoses or in this case the rubber tube between the pipe and silencer. Just slip it under the rubber and work it around the pipe. The stepped rib on the rubber joint between the pipe
and the silencer goes on the pipe side.
I have an after market AC brand subframe and a ProMoto Billet kickstand I can't remember which one came with this little bushing but watch that you don't loose it.
Winter is coming, had to break out the heater for the dog, she's getting old. You can see how discolored the gas tank gets when you leave gas (that turned bad) in it for more than a year.
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I repacked the FMF Power Core silencer. There's no easy way to do this.
But next time I plan on spot welding a metal tab that I can get a hold of with my knocker.
This time with the hook attachment of my knocker I pulled off one of the
press fit aluminum nuts on the pipe side. So I switched to the end cap
and pulled it out with one of the nuts. I lightly tapped the perforated
pipe that runs through the "can" getting it apart.
I used a spray can of carb cleaner to clean all parts.
Use masking tape to hold the packing as you reassemble the silencer.
Using high temperature silicone, wipe a thin skim coat on the end cap
and the perforated pipes cap to help seal the silencer.
I had the regular silicone not high temp. we'll see how that works.
Make sure the packing doesn't bunch up as you stick it back together.
Make sure the perforated pipe mates with the pipe in the end cap,
line up the holes and install the little bolts.
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It's a good idea to check the copper washer between the exhaust pipe and the cylinder.
There's 2 o-rings on the pipe that seal the cylinder to the pipe.
When removing the pipe, after removing the tension springs
I take the 2 nuts off on the upper mounts.
On the lower mount I remove the bolt and leave the
rubber isolator on the pipe so the pipe can be twisted and
moved forward. It's very easy to bash the center mount on
the radiator, install a small piece of cardboard for protection.
Don't ask why I know to do that.
All the replaceable parts work in harmony. Wear on any one of
these parts make the others break down fast. When installing the
pipe it needs to hang in a neutral position. Any stress on the rubber
mounts will kill the life of the other 2. Lock tight is your friend
on the 3 nuts and 3 bolts used on the rubber mounts.
My springs, mounts, copper gasket and o-rings were in useable condition.
I rotated the o-rings in their grove and smeared a very thin coat of
copper anti-size on the rings to aid the insertion into the cylinder.
The last picture shows how my pipe does not fit flush on the
copper washer, the o-rings seal, might be part of having an
after market pipe. I thought about adding a second copper washer.
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The swing arm pivot bolt is over looked on most bikes.
It's a long bolt that runs through the frame, swing arm
and on most dirt bikes, the engine. Over time dirt and water
will rust it in place. Or it will develop wear groves that hang
up on the edges of the holes it has to travel through to be removed.
Raise the bike to get the back wheel off the ground.
Insert something under the wheel that just fits so the wheel
won't drop when you remove the bolt.
Worst case scenario remove the nut and spin the bolt with an impact
gun while your friend taps the other end with a long punch and hammer.
Clean and then sand the bolt with fine grained sand paper.
Scoop some water proof grease with your punch and apply
it to the holes of the swing arm, frame and engine.
Smear the first half of the bolt (thread side) with grease
so you have a clean end to hold onto as you insert it into the frame hole.
Tap lightly to get it started, grease the rest of the bolt. You may have to
wiggle the backwheel/swing arm to get it to go. On the k5 it calls for
58 foot pounds of torque.
On the kx500 you need to remove the brake peddle to access the nut.
That's a good time to clean and grease the brake peddle pivot and bushing.
There is a recessed groove in the bushing of the peddle, make sure
to fill it with water proof grease. Here again I'm a Bel-Ray fan.