KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Steel Frame Conversion (SFC) => Topic started by: umberto on May 12, 2015, 01:48:46 AM
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I've been sitting on a 1989 K5 engine and goodies that I bought off of eBay for a while now. I'm about ready to start the conversion into a 2007 KX 250 that I have owned for several years. I'm taking a welding class at the local technical school, and needed a project to practice on, so off we go. The class starts in June, so I am beginning the process of getting everything swapped and the mounts and pipe ready for welding. I have already procured the correct drill bit, and the used CR 500 pipe is on its way.
(https://i.imgur.com/IaI4Pxo.jpg)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/BFAA5292-AE90-4772-9040-47AF817243FD_zpsuajlrkdk.jpg~original)
I will be selling the 07 250 motor if anyone is interested (I will list in the for sale section when I get it ready). I am putting a fresh top end in the motor with a Wiseco forged piston, Wiseco rings, bearing, wrist pin, and clips. I am also going to clean and inspect the power valve, and do a leak down test. I will be selling the motor with the FMF Gnarly pipe, carb, and electronics. It would be a perfect engine for an AF swap. I'll even ship it for free. I should have some pics and video of the rebuilt engine by next week.
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What brand side stand is that on the 250 ? I really like the way it mounts. That 500 engine looks like an '88 , but I could be mistaken.
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It is an 88. I've had it so long, I forgot the year. :-D. The side stand is made by Trail Tech. It says it only fits up to a 2005, but it has been on both my 07 and 04. They run about $120, and I got mine from Rocky Mountain. If you buy one, got to Trail Tech's website and buy a replacement foot for $5. I took about a half to 3/4 of an inch off mine and it works much better. To cut it, you will have to cut the foot off with the aluminum tube. The feet are impossible to remove. Or you can stack the spacers, but that makes the mount stick out a bit more at the bottom.
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Thanks. My '05 needs one of those.
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I got the top end rebuilt on the 250 today with a Wiesco forged piston, bearings, and cometic gaskets. I've rebuilt tons of two strokes in my day, but I still get such a rush from taking one apart, putting it back together, and hearing it fire right up. This thing sounds stout, I can't wait to ride it tomorrow. I'll break it in, and probably get it on eBay next week. If someone on here would like it, I will make you a deal for less than I'm selling it on eBay. The package will include the engine, carb, electronics, and FMF Gnarly pipe. This was my personal bike, and was never raced or abused. I put about 40 hours on a rebuild I did when I got it. When I put the new piston in today the bottom bearings felt excellent, and the seals were in great shape.
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So I got the 07 KX motor all broken in and ready to go, but I had an epiphany as I was riding the bike. I don't like the 07 as much as I like the earlier 03-05 KXs. I feel like a K5 motor is a rare gem and must be placed in the best frame it can be, so I am thinking about selling the 07 in one piece and buying an 03-05. I'll sell the 250 motor and stuff the 500 in it.
I found this bike for $2,000 about 200 miles away. It has Pro Circuit exhaust, Piper Suspension set up for 150 lb rider, and has a fresh motor (according to the seller, Umberto's compression tester will be the judge of that). The wheels do not come with the bike (which I was going to add my own wheels anyway).
(http://images.craigslist.org/00w0w_3Ik2FHO8g9T_600x450.jpg)
I also found this 2004 that is about 100 miles away. The bike is all stock, and the motor has not been messed with. Dude started out at $2,300 and is now down to $2,200. I don't think he is going to wiggle much more than that. I told him I was considering the 2005, and he only budged $100.
(http://images.craigslist.org/00i0i_65ommyobaZt_600x450.jpg)
I figure I can sell my 07 for $2,250-$2,500 and sell the KX motor for $1,500 or more (the 05 motor with an aftermarket pipe should bring more) so the money makes sense. My question is this: Is the 2004 better than the 2005, and if so is it worth that much more (especially considering the aftermarket parts on the 05)?
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I think the '05 is very similar to the '07...so if you're looking for a better-handling bike than your '07 I'd stick with '03 or '04.
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the 05 frame is the same as a 07 , if you want these models to handle you have to change head angle , see kawi had the frame set at 27 degrees on 03 and 04 , than some bird brain decided to steepen it to 26 degrees for the 05 model and kept the same frame until its demise, we modify the frame so the angle is 26.5 , bingo ,no more front washing out threw the corner.longer pull rods help a bit to , but i prefer to fix the frame and be done with it.
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I decided to go with the 04 and even negotiated a better deal, but now the guy isn't texting me back. Or as I like to call it, The International Craigslist Passive Aggressive Signal for I Sold the Bike or I Don't Want to Honor the Deal I Agreed To (I.C.P.A.S.F.I.S.T.B.O.I.D.W.T.H.T.D.I.A). :-D
I found this bike, which seems to be a better deal, but he won't text me back either. It's only been on 3 days, so I'm hoping he works nights, or is at work and can't text back.
(http://images.craigslist.org/00J0J_110m5H4lcmY_600x450.jpg)
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I found another 2004 and he is not texting me back either. It's been on Craigslist for just 4 days. I am beginning to think there is a conspiracy against me acquiring another 2004. Maybe having two of them is too much of a good thing? :-D
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Shoot! There's another '04 with your name on it...somewhere.
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So both guys texted me back within 15 minutes. And my wife says complaining never gets you anywhere. :-D The owner of the first bike may trade for a 4 stroke, but if not it's mine. The second bike I found is a 2003, but is mechanically pretty sound. It has a new motor with 10 or 11 hours, pipe, silencer, and Magura hydraulic clutch which intrigues me. Of course it's 4 hours away instead of two. Here is the 03:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/F7788357-8C16-4D2E-AC83-DFFAB4100DC4_zpsnnolljtb.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/7AD24F42-678F-492C-A0C3-2EEA156528AC_zps5dwovgog.jpg~original)
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So I picked up the 03 today. The motor is really crisp, and there was nothing glaring (that I wasn't going to replace anyway) wrong with the bike. The Magura clutch is awesome. Has anyone tried one with a K5?
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/002727D5-7759-46F9-B313-160B527BEBF9_zpsa6fa5rxd.jpg~original)
Here's the Magura clutch cylinder:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/20DA1DE3-5A44-4EE4-86E8-1D783344FC2A_zpswa9y0tny.jpg~original)
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Good deal! That's a nice looking '03.
I can't speak for the Magura hydraulic conversion on a KX500, but I do have one on my '00 KX125. With all the clutch abusing required to ride a 125, I think it's a pretty good barometer for the Magura system.
I've had zero troubles with the slave cylinder, but I've had to replace the seals a few times on the master cylinder. As for performance, it's everything it's supposed to be: self-adjusting, easier lever pull.
Motocross Action featured a KTM/KX500 that used a Magura hydraulic conversion. The 250SX uses a Magura master cylinder, so they just added the KX500-spec Magura slave cylinder. I assume it worked well.
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Does anyone know if the swingarm needs to be trimmed for an 88 K5 in my 03 frame? If it does need to be trimmed, do you need to trim equal amounts off each side, or do you need to offset it to one side or the other? Thank you for the help, I don't want to make a costly mistake right out of the gate.
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zz3gmc gave a lot of great info on doing this swap. You do need to trim the swing arm and bearing sleeves, but thankfully the motor mounts line up at the bottom and with the swing arm pivot, so you just measure and trim. Another great tip he gave me was to use a 2005 or later tank. The heads on the later models sat more upright, requiring a more shallow tank. This helps a lot with the obviously taller K5. Thank you zz3gmc!!
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Good deal! That's a nice looking '03.
I can't speak for the Magura hydraulic conversion on a KX500, but I do have one on my '00 KX125. With all the clutch abusing required to ride a 125, I think it's a pretty good barometer for the Magura system.
I've had zero troubles with the slave cylinder, but I've had to replace the seals a few times on the master cylinder. As for performance, it's everything it's supposed to be: self-adjusting, easier lever pull.
Motocross Action featured a KTM/KX500 that used a Magura hydraulic conversion. The 250SX uses a Magura master cylinder, so they just added the KX500-spec Magura slave cylinder. I assume it worked well.
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Thank you! It was a long drive to get it, but I think it was worth it. The motor is very nice, and the bike is in great shape. I'm going to be selling the motor so it was the most important part to me, but the rest of the bike should clean up well.
I have had a weird issue with my slave cylinder. It was making a weird sucking noise when I got home. I assumed it had a blown seal and it would quit working at any time. After a bit it stopped and the clutch still works very well. It was raining pretty heavily when I went to get it, so maybe it was water that was being forced out from around the seal. Has anything like that ever happened to yours?
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You can use the stock 03/04 tank. If a big tank is needed then use the 05-07 KX250 Clarke/IMS tank.
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Gotcha. Do you need to heat and bend the stock 2003 tank to get it to fit?
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My Magura slave cylinder makes the same noises you're describing after I wash the bike or anytime the slave cylinder gets wet. I wondered about it, too.
I've always used Magura Blood mineral oil in my clutch system. I've heard you can use common mineral oil from the drugstore but have never tried it--likely never will.
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My Magura slave cylinder makes the same noises you're describing after I wash the bike or anytime the slave cylinder gets wet. I wondered about it, too.
I've always used Magura Blood mineral oil in my clutch system. I've heard you can use common mineral oil from the drugstore but have never tried it--likely never will.
That's a relief, that sound was freaking me out. I've always used Magura Blood as well. I'm like you, why take the chance?
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I made some progress on the bike today. I built a platform to hold the engine level and leveled the drill press as well. The hole drilled cleanly and quickly. Whew!
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/A3CD80F7-129B-488D-8BCB-C3DA3B337634_zpsaz9ipwpd.jpg~original)
While I was doing the drilling, my 15 year old son stripped the bike down to pretty much nothing. It makes you proud to see your son using the things you've taught him. Here's a picture right before he pulled the swing arm.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/6F01E2E9-D8B4-40F4-977D-25FF81A3B56D_zpsum58gqmt.jpg~original)
After some fiddling, I was able to get the motor in the frame. I went ahead and cut off the front motor mounts and trimmed back the head stay so they would be ready to weld. I just need to trim the swing arm bushings and install them back in the already trimmed swing arm to have her rolling and ready to pester my welding class instructor for advice. :-D
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/22936F3E-51F8-4AFE-B3C7-91C13FFE54F4_zpsjpwhyf1q.jpg~original)
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Looks like the 88 engine has more room for radiator clearance due to the lack of the 3rd powervalve that the 89 up engine has. I cut the lower rad mount off of my frame and moved it about a 1/8th" forward so the radiator tank doesnt touch the head. I removed the clutch cover and basket so the engine had a flat surface to rest on. I had my machinist buddy open up the pivot hole. The next one I build I'll do it myself. Lookin good!
P.S. If you decide to get rid of the 03 forks let me know! When properly revalved they are the best forks Ive ever had for offroad! I swapped a set onto my 07 250, 04 500 hybrid and my wifes 04 300 big bore. With a set off Flexx Bars and 03 forks it will eat up rocks, roots and all sorts of trail junk!
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I was so nervous drilling that hole out that I leveled everything in site, including myself. :-) I used the all thread and the nuts to allow me to adjust the motor up and down to level everything. It was a lot easier than I thought, you're really just drilling a little bit on both sides not the entire hole. The motor went in the frame really easily too, once I took off the two 90 degree elbows for the cooling system. Lord knows I took it in and out enough times yesterday as I fiddled with stuff. I'm pretty excited to get it back into a roller so I can start fitting the exhaust. I know I have a ways to go before I'm done, but it was nice to get the first steps out of the way. I'll be ordering some goodies this weekend to start redoing some of the hard parts.
I'm thinking about sending the suspension to Race Tech. The forks are leaking, and the shock is in major need of a rebuild. I had my 07 suspension done by Factory Connection and it really turned out well (it ended up on my 04), but I wanted to try a Race Tech re-valve with the gold valves. Does anyone have thoughts on which one is better?
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Made some more progress today. I was able to get the swingarm and swingarm bushings trimmed down and installed. I left everything a little big and then slowly fine tuned it using my belt sander. The swingarm moves really easily, and the chain is in perfect line. I am going to replace all the bearings, and the rear end should be good to go. I'm pretty excited to have it this far. On to the exhaust and motor mounts!
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/65A8561A-E298-4622-A90A-D5A0BF4B2EC1_zpsnenoixwl.jpg~original)
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I'm thinking about sending the suspension to Race Tech. The forks are leaking, and the shock is in major need of a rebuild. I had my 07 suspension done by Factory Connection and it really turned out well (it ended up on my 04), but I wanted to try a Race Tech re-valve with the gold valves. Does anyone have thoughts on which one is better?
I've rode both and if set up correctly for you and your riding style it would be difficult to tell them apart.
I use Race Tech because the set up options are more varied and they make it easy to get a good starting point.
Whichever you decide on, spend a few extra dollars and use the low or zero drag oil.
I love the difference it made on my K5.
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Did you do the gold valves or did you just have them re-valve your suspension? I've heard really good things about the gold valves, so I thought I would give them a try. I'll definitely request the low drag oil. Thank you for the advice Sandblaster.
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Did you do the gold valves or did you just have them re-valve your suspension? I've heard really good things about the gold valves, so I thought I would give them a try. I'll definitely request the low drag oil. Thank you for the advice Sandblaster.
I did my own suspension and used the gold valves.
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I got to do a little more work on the conversion today. I was able to fit the CR 500 pipe. It actually does fit really well, except the neck had a bit of a curve in it. When I cut off the flange, it left a funny angle. I somehow managed to match that angle in the neck from the KX 500 I cut off. It's a classic example of a blind squirrel finding a nut eventually. :-D I'm going to take it to a welder and get him to weld the neck on, and then I'll work on the mount and "relief" for the coolant hose that runs to the head. More pics to come.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/C37341E1-B84C-446F-BA98-58C931164876_zps8qtlcmuv.jpg~original)
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I got my pipe back from the welder in record time. After a few tweaks, I was able to get it to fit. I still need to do the bottom mount, and then it's off to the pipe repair shop to get out those really bad dings.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/69274A1B-6406-4C33-BE8C-73CF569BBBC0_zpscop7udiq.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/EEB634D3-F564-4650-A5AD-24FA9F1C4E5C_zpsmurkdhoj.jpg~original)
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I took my first welding class last night, and I learned a lot in just the first class. We actually got to weld quite a bit last night (enough to give me a welder's tan on my arm). The instructor told us we could work on personal projects if we wanted to, so I am going to take my bike with me to class Thursday night. I'll post some pictures of the progress.
I'm not sure how much the welder I use would have charged me to put the motor mounts on, but the class only cost me $130, and they provide, steel, tools, welders, helmet, and all the safety gear. Plus the instructor will be looking over my shoulder to make sure I have the welder set up correctly and I'm not messing up too badly.
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Wow that sounds like a pretty good deal ,a bit of an education and all the access plus a "tan" to boot for a buck thirty .
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I got a little bit more done on the bike today. I wasn't able to take it to welding class because I got home from work too late, but I was able to get the MX 31s mounted on the Tusk Impact wheels. Tusk doesn't make a wheel for the 2003, but the 2004 and up will fit if you use the stock brake side spacer on one side, and another brake side spacer (I bought a Tusk set) on the other side. (edit 1/5/2016: The two spacers will need to be adjusted a bit to fit. I started out on the brake side and adjusted it down until the rotor was centered in the brake caliper. I then adjusted the other side so the wheel fit. I ended up at around 33.5 mm for the brake side and 32.5 mm for the other side) The stock 2003 brake rotor won't fit the 2004 and up wheel, but I was planning to upgrade to a larger one anyway. I also mounted the kickstand and the KDX intake. I will be taking it to the class on Tuesday. I'll post some pics of anything I get done.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/2FA3F171-1051-4728-9990-44AAC2E7812A_zpstiwxww0q.jpg~original)
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I took the bike to class tonight, and got the front motor mounts fabbed and welded on. I used a similar setup to the factory mounts, with one on each side of the frame. My welding instructor made a pass over my welds to make sure they were strong enough. I'll definitely do some cleanup on them this weekend.
Here are the mounts before welding:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/B5D26E0A-7111-4A9C-8CB6-6663A9E31ACB_zpsatpmajt4.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/2F0ED3B2-340B-4727-B5C1-4927AB0D43BA_zpsoemfnixn.jpg~original)
After welding:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/066008F6-1630-4136-812F-A29C891FA58C_zpso7nscbyb.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/A538E889-0FFA-4C5C-B108-9213CE8DF687_zps5dhkz2kc.jpg~original)
Next class I'll be working on the head stay. I'll post more photos after class.
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Lookin Good!
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Thank you! Your advice has really helped me with the build. I'm getting excited to ride it for sure.
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Got my pipe mounted last night. I used the optional pipe mount for the 03 KX 250, which has a bolt hole and a stud. I just had to bend the pipe mount a bit to make it fit.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/12888FA2-7418-40E4-8ED8-B6D3154F309F_zpshzxfloev.jpg~original)
I also solved my clearance issue with the oil filler. Tusk makes this little dude for $9.99.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/707EFFA3-FDF0-4ED2-9276-B46172D4CE64_zpswuikvnwl.jpg~original)
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I think you will love it! It handles so much better in the modern frame!
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I made some progress on the bike today, although it doesn't really look like it. I got the throttle and cable installed, replaced the busted front brake line, got the new rotor installed and finalized the front wheel spacers, got the hydraulic clutch set up (more on that later), replaced the head gasket, replaced the chain adjusters that were frozen, and got the pipe bent around the coolant pipe.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/699CAC72-3762-4693-BCB5-5AD325A20C32_zpsyjvhk4bp.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/1D03826F-27B1-4EFE-BE1D-7CA7E6DE2398_zpsdhpmvy0j.jpg~original)
The hyrdaulic clutch is giving me some issues. I don't think it has enough travel, which is not fully disengaging the clutch. I was able to roll it in gear, which initially made me think I had a compression issue. I installed the kickstarter, and the motor felt good. I'm going to install a standard clutch lever tomorrow and see if it is the Magura system or the clutch itself.
I'm also not really satisfied with the pipe either. I had to really bend a couple of sections to get around the coolant pipe and to allow me to take the pipe off. I'm thinking about buying another pipe and doing some splicing to give me more clearance around the restrictions. I have access to an expert welder in my welding class, who happens to be a fellow dirt biker. Might as well take advantage of it. :-D
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Whole bike view:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/CD4EE268-FE08-4DE7-8508-CE51BD3710F2_zpseljtlnfx.jpg~original)
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I got a lot of work done since my last post. I ended up buying another CR pipe and doing some splicing to make the pipe fit better without denting it too much. I added an inch to the section that goes towards the ignition side, and then a pie shaped piece (about one inch at the top, and about 1/4 at the bottom) to bring the pipe around the coolant transfer pipe on the cylinder head. All in all I am pleased with the pipe. I also found a nice used FMF Q silencer and got that mounted as well. The previous owner had cut off the lower silencer mount, so I improvised a bit with a triangle mount. If it is not strong enough, I may have to have the lower mount repaired. I also got the radiators mounted and the hoses ran. I had to grind the weld down on the frame for clearance, and weld over and drill and re-tap the mounting holes on the bottom. The new location required redoing the radiator braces. I made them out of some material at welding class, but I may redo them in aluminum this weekend. I am now down to the wiring, airbox, and details. Hopefully I can post a ride video this weekend. I realized I never bought plastics for the bike, so it will be a bit hooptyfied. No redneck jokes. :-D
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/AAF0B378-19AA-4A3E-B558-5508D133B3DB_zpsenqajdvz.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/FED8BA6F-B07C-4E6E-AFE1-A3F462DAC19C_zps7qwa8pua.jpg~original)
New lower pipe mount:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/24FFB819-2EAA-443A-9924-E02F97AD69E6_zpsflunbduz.jpg~original)
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No redneck jokes. :-D
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/AAF0B378-19AA-4A3E-B558-5508D133B3DB_zpsenqajdvz.jpg~original)
that silencer should say "Louisville Slugger" on it! :-D
just kiddin, I love the long "Q" silencer look on the conversions.
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No redneck jokes. :-D
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/AAF0B378-19AA-4A3E-B558-5508D133B3DB_zpsenqajdvz.jpg~original)
that silencer should say "Louisville Slugger" on it! :-D
just kiddin, I love the long "Q" silencer look on the conversions.
That's so funny, I was laughing about how huge it is while I was making the mounts today. It makes the other models looks like toys. I am trying to put as much silencer on it as I can. I think the neighbors are ready to shoot me for all the motorcycle noise that comes from my driveway on a daily basis. :evil:
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a Louisville Slugger decal would look awesome on it. :mrgreen:
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No redneck jokes. :-D
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/AAF0B378-19AA-4A3E-B558-5508D133B3DB_zpsenqajdvz.jpg~original)
that silencer should say "Louisville Slugger" on it! :-D
just kiddin, I love the long "Q" silencer look on the conversions.
That's so funny, I was laughing about how huge it is while I was making the mounts today. It makes the other models looks like toys. I am trying to put as much silencer on it as I can. I think the neighbors are ready to shoot me for all the motorcycle noise that comes from my driveway on a daily basis. :evil:
the bike will come out great, when it is finished ... very good work umberto ...
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Thank you motopunk! I'm having a blast building it.
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Bike looks great! I would weld another mount to the sub frame for the silencer. Thats alot of silencer hanging back there for one mount. I have 2 mounts on my bike. Also you should beef up that lower mount for the pipe. 500s vibrate quite a bit and that "Z" shaped bracket may fail. A upper pipe mount for a 05-07 KX250 may work there since they are pretty long. The 03 frame also has a mount for the expansion chamber by the subframe to frame junction. I would make a mount there also since the CR pipe has a mounting point there. Not nit picking just offering some suggestions to more solidly mount the pipe.
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Thank you for the input zz3gmc! Without your help I wouldn't have gotten this far for sure. I'll take your advice and beef up my mounting. i haven't had a k5 for 30 years, so I wasn't sure how much vibration is normal for one.
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so what color(s) are you thinking when buying plastics, backgrounds and decals/graphics?
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I was thinking about using the 2014 KXF front fender and number plate in green, 08 KXF shrouds in green, and stock side panels and fenders in green. I think I'll leave the fork guards black. I had a really good experience at Decal Works last time, so I think I'll go back with their graphics. I really like how edgar_kx3 did the yellow backgrounds on his, so I am going to borrow that from him.
I like this graphics set, but with KX 500 where it just says KX.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/2DFF56F3-1AEE-4745-9989-BB916169780B_zpsvioivtft.png~original)
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that'll look sharp!.
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I like yellow and green! :-D
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a65/thumper4str/2013-03-11111022_zps414500c3.jpg~original) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/thumper4str/media/2013-03-11111022_zps414500c3.jpg.html)
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Nice. That dude looks like it means business. Is that the 04?
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I got the electronics wired in today and was rewarded with a big fat spark! Always one of my favorite moments for sure. I am really just down to modifying the tank, and the airbox and I will be able to ride it. I did run into a bit of a snag today. The clutch cable I got with the bike and the one from the 250 are both too short to reach the clutch perch. Is the K5 one much longer than the 250 ones? I routed the cable exactly like my 04, and it was close but not anywhere near usable.
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Thats the 04 hybrid.
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I used the stock 500 clutch cable. I bent the metal tube so it will route in front of the radiator just like the 250. That eliminates the sharp bend at the top of the radiator when routing it like a 500. Seems to ease the pull somewhat. I use a Moose clutch perch/lever with 2 holes for the cable and a bearing in the pivot. The pull is as easy as a 250. Ive tried juice clutches before on a YZ426 and a CR250 with poor results. It gave them a on/off feeling with no "feel" or modulation. Plus both started leaking at the slave cylinder during a race and left me with no clutch. I went back to the cable after that.
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I was able to get the cable in the perch, but it is too tight for serious riding. It does have a nice light feel though. I think I'll order a 500 cable and see if that helps. I don't think the cable the guy gave me with the motor was for the 500.
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Rocky Mountain does not have a clutch cable for the 88 K5. A 90 cable should work, correct?
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Not sure, the part #s are different. If the mounting point on the case is the same I dont see why a 89-04 cable wouldnt work. Can you post a close up pic of the left side of the engine?
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the cable works .. i have one on my 88 motor .. kx250 and 500 could be assembled with the same cables 88-2004
it could also fitted to 85-87 motors, but that´s not the point here ... :wink:
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Good news part 1: I got the tank molded today. I boiled water in two of my wife's big soup pots and then poured the boiled water in the stainless steel sink in my utility room. It works very well to heat the plastic to just the right temperature to mold it. Once I got it where I wanted it, I just poured a little cold water on it.
Good news part 2: I put the tank on it, and added oil, antifreeze/water, gas, and gave her a few kicks. After about 4 kicks it lit right off.
Bad news part 1: Unfortunately, I forgot to tighten my pipe mount up, so I had to kill it. Once I got the pipe tightened back up, it wouldn't start again. I pulled the spark plug and sure enough: no spark. I tried a couple other new plugs I had, but no luck. It still has compression and the fuel is flowing.
Call for help part 1: Does anyone have any thoughts on where to start looking? I checked all the connections and pulled the kill switch to make sure it wasn't stuck closed. I just don't have much experience with checking the electrical systems.
Hope for the future part 1: While it was running, it sounded pretty stout. I can't wait to ride it.
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earth connections
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I have all the electrical specs here as well as some helpful hints.
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=163 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=163)
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I have all the electrical specs here as well as some helpful hints.
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=163 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=163)
Thank you Sandblaster, that's a big help. I'll bust out the ohm meter and get started. If I have a bad part, can I use the CDI or coil from a 89 and up, or am I limited to 88 only?
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The coil is no problem.
You might be able to use the 88 CDI but I believe the timing is different.
I think the 89 and up max out at 19 degrees at 6K rpm
The 86-88 I think max out at 15 degrees
Someone hopefully can confirm
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Hey umberto the conversion looks like its coming along great,
im close to stating another build similar, 03 kx250 and 94 kx500,
i may be pestering you with questions as it goes,
just for clarification you just bought the normal cr500 fmf pipe? gnarly one or what? and then cut off the engine flange and welded on the kx one?
also is the 03 bike a good one to go with? i have the motor but havn't bought the bike yet, going to look at it tommorow.
thanks from logan
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Hey umberto the conversion looks like its coming along great,
im close to stating another build similar, 03 kx250 and 94 kx500,
i may be pestering you with questions as it goes,
just for clarification you just bought the normal cr500 fmf pipe? gnarly one or what? and then cut off the engine flange and welded on the kx one?
also is the 03 bike a good one to go with? i have the motor but havn't bought the bike yet, going to look at it tommorow.
thanks from logan
The pipe I used was just a standard 89 and up FMF Gnarly. I actually used a new CR pipe, a dented used CR pipe, and the KX 500 pipe. I used the flange section of the KX pipe, and two sections from the dented pipe to lengthen the pipe 1" out where it goes towards the ignition cover, and about an inch back the other way (it was a pie shape to lay the pipe over a bit more). The CR pipe fits without the added sections, but you do have to dent it pretty severely to get around that dang coolant transfer pipe, the reed block (it kicks back in after going around the head) and to clear the ignition cover. I solved this by adding the sections to the pipe. I suppose you could use section out of the KX pipe instead of buying another CR pipe, but I already had the dented pipe.
The 03/04 is a good choice from a handling standpoint, but the 05-07 should have more room for the motor (but not handle nearly as well). You can get the newer chassis to handle if you swap out the triple clamps to change the head angle a bit. I didn't have any issues with room, except in the front where the head gets really close to the frame and restricts access for the radiator cross over hose. You will have to grind the weld on the frame and relocate the bottom radiator mount. Other than that and the tank reshaping, it's been a pretty easy swap.
I have to thank zz3gmc, he has been a lot of help. He completed an 04 conversion that is super clean. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be this far without him.
Good luck with your conversion!
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The coil is no problem.
You might be able to use the 88 CDI but I believe the timing is different.
I think the 89 and up max out at 19 degrees at 6K rpm
The 86-88 I think max out at 15 degrees
Someone hopefully can confirm
88 is 17 degree 6k rpm/ cylmer manual, so very little differance, not sure if the wire colors vary on later kx as the pick up coil seems to change, internal pick up coil totally confuse me :roll:
Make sure u are kicking it over fast enough when trying for spark/ No plug in and kick it like u want to start it :-)
I end up pulling my hair out years ago try to get spark on a cr5/ luckly i had spare cdi coils etc or i would still be there/ turned out i was not kicking it fast enought even with plug removed {no compression} :-D
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Could I use the entire system (coil, cdi, ignition) from an 89 and up? Would I need to replace the flywheel as well? Would it fit?
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Could I use the entire system (coil, cdi, ignition) from an 89 and up? Would I need to replace the flywheel as well? Would it fit?
U Would need flywheel as well
pre 89 had the smaller ligher flywheel
88 on right
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg119/cr500-af/kx500%2088%20cases/IMGA0126_zpsual3kfcd.jpg~original)
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Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but knowing I can swap up makes things a whole lot easier. Instead of just finding 88, I can look for 89 and up K5 stuff. Thank you dave916!
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I ran through Sandblaster's awesome trouble shooting guide, and was able to get readings on most of the stuff. There are some differences in the 88 wiring as opposed to the wiring of the 89 and up bikes, but most of the reading came back in range. Two things really stood out to me:
The coil read in the 1.70 to 1.80 range in OHMs from the lead wire and ground. The guide said it was supposed to be 0.26 to 0.36 and as high as 0.50.
I could not get a reading out of the plug wire, even after removing the cap. The wire inside the plug wire was in very bad shape. I tested the OHM meter (a brand new Bosch unit) on the stock 03 KX 250 coil I had, and it read within the range for the plug wire on that coil.
All the other components were in the OHM range listed. I am pretty comfortable that the coil plug wire is frayed or broken. I found an 88 coil on e-Bay that is $35.00 with free shipping:
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/haEAAOSwrklVR8qw/$_57.JPG)
Or I can go with this AMR Racing coil for $67 free shipping:
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTA0WDYwMA==/z/Xg8AAOSwpDdVS7m5/$_12.JPG)
Does anyone have any experience with the AMR coil? Should I go with a stock coil and not risk using a hotter coil?
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Does anyone have any experience with the AMR coil? Should I go with a stock coil and not risk using a hotter coil?
Yes... The AMR kept smoking my plugs after about 2-3 minutes.
Go back to the stock coil.
I found the ad for the 88 coil.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121641622374?item=121641622374&viewitem=&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121641622374?item=121641622374&viewitem=&vxp=mtr)
I told him his price was too high and suggested 29.99
Looks like he listened... :-o
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Awesome, thank you for saving me a few bucks! It's on its way to OKC.
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Do you have to remould the tank for clearance?
also does the standard air boot and intake manifold fit?
-Logan
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Yes, you do have to remold the tank to get clearance, but it's not too drastic. I boiled water in a big soup pot and left the tank sitting in it for a few minutes. This made the plastic soft but not too soft. I pushed it up where I needed to, and then ran cold water over it it to set it. It worked very well and seemed to be very safe.
I was not able to use the stock airboot, because the 500 carb is farther back than the 250 carb relative to the airbox location. I have a 500 airboot that I am going to try to make work, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet. I've been riding too much lately, which is a good problem to have. :-D. I'll post updates as I get a chance.
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I used the 500 boot with an adaptor plate. The air boxs are slightly different between the 03 and 04 KX250s but Im pretty sure it will work.
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I got all the plastic in for the bike yesterday. I got 2008 KXF 450 shrouds, (they are larger than the 2008 KXF 250 shrouds), and they bolt right up without a lot of extensive modification. When I did my original set on my 04 I read a post on thumpertalk, and that guy used 250 shrouds and modified the heck out of them. I read the article and did the same. Come to find out the 450 shrouds are a lot simpler to fit. Oh well, live and learn. 8-)
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So it turns out my coil was burned out. I got some work done today, and was able to take her around the block for the first time. The clutch is fried, and I have an oil leak around the clutch arm, but everything sounds good and works pretty well.
Thank you to Sandblaster for the troubleshooting guide (and for helping me save money on the coil). I don't know if I would have been able to find the issue so quickly (and cheaply) without the guide.
Here's a video of me starting it this evening. I still have work to do, but I'm getting much closer!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOHMTuQefYE&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOHMTuQefYE&feature=youtu.be)
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I need some help with the clutch. Will a 89 and up clutch fit an 88, or is it a one year wonder like the cylinder? The part numbers are different on the OEM fiche, and Rocky Mountain lists clutches for 89 and up, but not 88. I can buy an 88 clutch on eBay, but the selection is limited and they are pretty pricey. I realize I probably need a really good clutch for that much power, but I don't want to overspend on a bike that is not going to be raced. Thank you for the help!
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The kx500 basket and pressure plate are the same according to my info....
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looks and sounds good on the video,
am interested on how you do your intake boot, if you can post pics up on here when you build it that would be helpful!
-logan
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The kx500 basket and pressure plate are the same according to my info....
I got a clutch ordered from Rocky Mountain. Last night I remembered the list you posted on your web site that shows the different parts that fit different years. That's such an awesome reference tool, thank you for sharing it with us.
http://oem-cycle.com/KAWASAKIKX500BIKEID.shtml (http://oem-cycle.com/KAWASAKIKX500BIKEID.shtml)
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looks and sounds good on the video,
am interested on how you do your intake boot, if you can post pics up on here when you build it that would be helpful!
-logan
The air box boot is giving me fits right now. I am using a 96 K5 boot, but it is really squished if you do a solid plate across the airbox to mount it (it pushes into the top of the shock, but not the spring). I am trying to think my way around it, but not having much luck yet. Maybe zz3gmc can post some pics of his airbox.
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It so happens that I will be doing a top end rebuild soon. I will try to take some pics.
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umberto, why not using the 2003 oem-250 boot? ... on my 93 it had worked very well ...
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umberto, why not using the 2003 oem-250 boot? ... on my 93 it had worked very well ...
I did try it, but it seemed to be even further back than the k5 boot. I'll give it another try just to make sure.
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I may have figured out your problem umberto. There were a few changes to the intake tract between the 03 and 04 KX250s. The airbox, airbox boot and intake manifold are different between the 2 years. The 03 airbox to airboot mounting flange is flat(airbox side) and on the 04 the airbox to airboot flange is recessed about a 1/2" or so. This is probably why the airboot is squashed using the 03 airbox. I think if you go with a 04 KX250 airbox and the 500 boot with a adapter plate you should be good to go.
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I will try to get a pic tonight of the 2 airboxes. I have both.
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I'm glad you thought of that, I was about to do major surgery. :-D
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I will try to get a pic tonight of the 2 airboxes. I have both.
Can you please do a visual and see if the 04 airbox will go in the 03 subframe? Thank you!
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I'm not looking at the problem yet, so this may be an easy "nah that won't work because" But can you modify or make a different boot from the carb to the reed block to move the carb position to make it line up with the factory kx250 intake boot? Maby out of alloy?
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I will try to get a pic tonight of the 2 airboxes. I have both.
Can you please do a visual and see if the 04 airbox will go in the 03 subframe? Thank you!
The part numbers are the same for the two frames, so it should fit. The airbox itself was used from 04-07, which helps with supply.
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A guy listed a 2004 KX 250 airbox on eBay today. I snatched it up and should be able to button this dude up now. Every guy I know wants a ride on this beast, just to scratch it off his bucket list. $5 a ride? :-D
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I'm not looking at the problem yet, so this may be an easy "nah that won't work because" But can you modify or make a different boot from the carb to the reed block to move the carb position to make it line up with the factory kx250 intake boot? Maby out of alloy?
I think the 2004 airbox should fix it. I looked at my 2004, and the airbox has an indention where the air boot attaches that should be set back enough to fix the issue. I only needed a fraction of an inch more to get the boot to fit.
The 250 air boot is much longer than the 500 air boot, because of the difference in engine size and airbox placement. I think if you made a new intake boot, it would really have to be shorter to connect the carb to the 2004 air boot. I think making it shorter would mess with the angle the carb has to turn to get around the shock as well.
I'll keep you posted on the progress. Hopefully this will fix it.
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I forgot you had a 04! You have all you need right there. Atleast for the mock up. As long as nothing changed between the position of the intake on the 88 500 cylinder versus my 02 500 cylinder it should work fine.
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I bought one on eBay yesterday, and the guy got it boxed up and shipped in an hour. :-o It should be here Friday, so I'll be able to fit it (and the new clutch) this weekend and possibly ride this beast next weekend. Getting pretty pumped!
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Why not try and make something out of thick rubber 1/4 inch , gives alot more movement when fiting carb ,the kx has smallesh air filter so could be pushed back into the airbox a little
what wrong with clutch?
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Why not try and make something out of thick rubber 1/4 inch , gives alot more movement when fiting carb ,the kx has smallesh air filter so could be pushed back into the airbox a little
what wrong with clutch?
zz3gmc has done an 04, and he just put a plate across the air box and used the 500 air boot. He said it was a simple bolt up. The 03 and 04 air boxes are different, so I think that is why his was so easy and mine wouldn't work at all.
The clutch is just fried. It will move the bike, but any additional throttle just causes slippage. I adjusted on the perch for a couple of hours, and couldn't make it any better.
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rob is the man with the right knowledge to the kx250 - R - frames 03 and 04 .. its an interesting fact with the airboxes ... 8-)
meanwhile a pic of my modification on the 86 motor that i sqeezed in the 93 frame .. intake itself is a brandnew 87-2004 kx500 intake boot... the airboot is oem kx250 1993 ... i had to lean it a little bit downwards to get the carb in the perfect position ...
maybe it helps a little bit for some inspiration..
(http://img.webme.com/pic/d/der-motopunk/foto0318.jpg)
... and lets see some pics of your progress... :wink:
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rob is the man with the right knowledge to the kx250 - R - frames 03 and 04 .. its an interesting fact with the airboxes ... 8-)
meanwhile a pic of my modification on the 86 motor that i sqeezed in the 93 frame .. intake itself is a brandnew 87-2004 kx500 intake boot... the airboot is oem kx250 1993 ... i had to lean it a little bit downwards to get the carb in the perfect position ...
maybe it helps a little bit for some inspiration..
(http://img.webme.com/pic/d/der-motopunk/foto0318.jpg)
... and lets see some pics of your progress... :wink:
I'll definitely take some pics this weekend. I'm using a 94 KDX 250 intake boot, 88 K5 reeds, 96 K5 air boot, 04 air box, and the 96 K5 filter and cage. I think it should work pretty well once I get the extra setback from the 04 air box.
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I cut the plate to the shape of the flange or opening in the airbox. then bolted up the KDX250 intake, 500 carb and mounted the 500 airboot to the carb. Then I bolted the subframe and airbox assy onto the frame. I traced where the airboot pressed up against the plate, adjusting it accordingly, and cut the hole needed to fit the boot to the airbox. It was easier than I thought it would be!
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I got my 04 air box in today, and there is quite a difference in the two years. If you look at the photo below, you can see the area where I'm pointing with the pencil is set back 3/4" more than the 03 air box. That is all the space I needed to get the boot to fit.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/A8CB06F0-C3D8-46DB-B403-C0489C2A1121_zpscml2x7x4.jpg~original)
I went ahead and made a template from the ring that clamps the boot to the box adding a little bit around the outside to seal the airbox. I kept testing it and trimming where necessary:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/7A173902-6960-4AAB-A497-E8A9136C32AC_zpswt6zhkt5.jpg~original)
I then cut it out of aluminum sheet I got at Lowe's, sealed it with gasket maker, and added sheet metal screws for security:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/BBDE1D19-6664-4DD5-85CB-48B50BB4B3AB_zps9sllukj1.jpg~original)
I ran out of time today. I'll fit it tomorrow and hopefully get this dude buttoned up and ready for a ride report.
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Pretty much what I did! Pretty easy isnt it!
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Yep, it was really an easy process. I can see now why it was so much easier on the 04 you did. The 04-07 air box has a ton more room.
I did notice a problem with the mounting flanges at the top of the air box. I'm going to repair them and then I can mount it up.
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nice progress... more pics please and waiting for ride report... 8-)
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I got my airbox bolted up today. It was a breeze with the 04 model. Thank you zz3gmc for figuring that out, it saved me a ton of work. Here is a picture of the finished product (the filter is the old one that came with the airbox, I have a new UNI one on there now):
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/9DF27F3D-FED8-4BBC-95A4-7345A9AC04A8_zpsai8ivsoq.jpg~original)
It clears nicely around the shock as well:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/64E8E538-3DC9-4385-ADBD-7294BABCB130_zpso4gpcs1d.jpg~original)
I got the bike all buttoned up for a picture or two (forgive the dirty garage, I have too many dirt bikes and too much stuff in it :-D):
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/8909ABF9-23D4-434E-B948-84D4A736844F_zps7fdsquio.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/CE65E876-46B0-4231-917D-C17464C72A28_zpsemful9sz.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/2B873E1F-49C6-4648-B376-13EACCA41049_zpsgy5nz69q.jpg~original)
After lunch I'm on to the clutch, and then I'll try to plan a ride. It's so stinking hot in Oklahoma right now, it may be a bit before I get her out.
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Looking forward to your ride report! :-D
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So I got the clutch swapped out. The old one came out smelling like smoked flavor beef jerky, with one of the fiber plates in pieces. Thankfully it was the back fiber plate, it was in several larger pieces, and it didn't get out into the motor. At least that solves the mystery of the slipping clutch. I'm all ready for my ride, but I do need to find some brown riding pants just in case. :-D My riding report, or obituary, is on its way!
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Looks great! Nice to see the newer style KX represented! I was feeling lonely!
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Looks great! Nice to see the newer style KX represented! I was feeling lonely!
Thank you again for all your help and advice, I couldn't have done it without you. I rode it around the block a few minutes ago, and it feels stout but not scary. I'm anxious to get it dirty.
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Looking forward to a full ride report and video :-)
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I have been planning to go riding with my friend who owns land in Chandler for a while now, and today was the day we could both go. I took the 500 SF and my 04 KX 250 and we were blessed with some great weather for August in Oklahoma (around 87 degrees), which is awesome because the trails were a mess with blackberry vines. The 500 started easily, and all the mechanical parts and suspension worked really well. The motor was a bit of another story. It just felt lazy and didn't want to rev or come up on the pipe. When I changed out the clutch, I discovered that the previous owner had removed all the KIPS components, including the gear and mechanism inside the clutch case. All the stuff in the cylinder is just gone as well. I would think that would affect the bottom end, but not prevent it for hitting on the top end. Do you guys have any thoughts on the engine? KIPS? Reeds? Timing? Gremlins?
Also, the shifter is not wanting to return back up from a downshift. I also think the shifter is slipping on the splines of the shifter shaft. I am going to contact Senor Sandblaster to see if I can procure another shaft and shifter, as well as all the springs. The transmission holds gears well, so I have my fingers crossed on that one.
All in all, I am pleased with the progress. I have a few things to sort out, but most of the tough stuff is done. Plus it just looks cool with that giant engine in the frame. :-D
Once I get the engine sorted out, I will post a ride video.
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Also, does anyone know of any other KIPS valves that will work in this engine? I know that 87-88 will work (thank you Sandblaster and your awesome reference list), but is there any other models that will cross over?
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They do look good with that giant engine!(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a65/thumper4str/DSC00604.jpg~original) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/thumper4str/media/DSC00604.jpg.html)
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If I remember right a friend of mine used to race a 88 500 and he was able to mod newer 89-04 valves to work. He's a member here and goes by the name ZAR. He hasnt been on in a long time though.
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I found a cylinder head with the KIPS valves intact, and the centrifugal mechanism that opens the valve on eBay. I hope to have them this weekend. I am also going to order some reeds, just in case they are worn out as well. They looked okay when I put them in, but they are 88 factory items and could be way overdue for a replacement.
I'll keep you posted on my progress. Hopefully this fixes the laziness and wakes the motor up. It's not as much fun to have a K5 if you don't see God when you ride it. :-D
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I finally got my cylinder in today. Stupid USPS took it to their City of Industry center and then let it sit for a couple of days without it moving. Anyway, the exhaust valves are in place in the cylinder, almost completely free of spooge, and working very smoothly. I should be able to transfer them over tomorrow. I'll also be replacing the reeds this weekend as well (if the FedEx Ground guy ever gets here). Pics and maybe a video to come!
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I have been planning to go riding with my friend who owns land in Chandler for a while now, and today was the day we could both go. I took the 500 SF and my 04 KX 250 and we were blessed with some great weather for August in Oklahoma (around 87 degrees), which is awesome because the trails were a mess with blackberry vines. The 500 started easily, and all the mechanical parts and suspension worked really well. The motor was a bit of another story. It just felt lazy and didn't want to rev or come up on the pipe. When I changed out the clutch, I discovered that the previous owner had removed all the KIPS components, including the gear and mechanism inside the clutch case. All the stuff in the cylinder is just gone as well. I would think that would affect the bottom end, but not prevent it for hitting on the top end. Do you guys have any thoughts on the engine? KIPS? Reeds? Timing? Gremlins?
Also, the shifter is not wanting to return back up from a downshift. I also think the shifter is slipping on the splines of the shifter shaft. I am going to contact Senor Sandblaster to see if I can procure another shaft and shifter, as well as all the springs. The transmission holds gears well, so I have my fingers crossed on that one
All in all, I am pleased with the progress. I have a few things to sort out, but most of the tough stuff is done. Plus it just looks cool with that giant engine in the frame. :-D
Once I get the engine sorted out, I will post a ride video.
The shifting could be down to a bent shifter shaft{may need to remove clutch to check }
Kipps missing should not affect top end power unless some one had did locked valves in closed postion{unlikly}
Second hand centrifugal mechanism will usually have one of the internally roller bearing worn {will loose roller if u move the unit manually}
if you are doing full top end rebuild? you will need .2mm head gasket for the 88,
ideally u would change waterpump seals and kipps bearings 4x608c3
KIPPS Bolt mod etc is all easy with cylinder off
possible to do this mod on kipps rod as well {shorten the travel on rod }
IT is also possible to mod one of the kipps valve to make the work a little better
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I pulled my engine apart today and was going to install the KIPS valves and put it back together, but as I held these extremely rare sets of valves I had a thought. These were the only set of 88 KIPS valves on eBay, and I had to buy a head to get them. What if I could have a backup set, or even a sturdier set? I have a friend that works in a fabrication shop in my home town, and they can make about anything. They have computer controlled CNC machines and the like, so I'm going to have him take a look at the valves and see if he can make me a set out of billet steel or something a little more hardy. These looks very flimsy and easy to break.
While I didn't get much assembly done today, I did get some good news. My bottom end is in excellent shape with no bearing play and the side to side movement was right in spec. I was starting to have my concerns about the engine, so this was welcome news. If I can get the shifter issue fixed and wake the motor up, it should be a really fun to ride.
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These motors are never ending when you start doing work to them :-D
As u are gone so far i would check for side movement on the complete crank
I reckon 50% of kx500 have either worn crank journals or main case races
A steel set of valves is what u need {think the 86 had them}
A modded Steel set with a 4mm spacer {nut} loctite to the kiips shaft{see black arrow}
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg119/cr500-af/kx500%2088%20cases/SAM_0990_zpspyftl6il.jpg~original)
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If your kipps valves were not fitted to cylinder i presume the kipps chamber would be opened all the time which kill top end
Bottom end would also be affect as the exhaust sub port would also be opened
Hopefull the valves fitted would have big gain bottom to top
Only down side it may be a bit harder to kick
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Luckily, there was no side to side either. All in all it seems to be a very solid motor.
I wasn't that impressed with the 88 KIPS valves, they seem to be made of some pretty cheap metal. I wasn't able to locate any 86 valves. Do you know if the later model valves will work?
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Luckily, there was no side to side either. All in all it seems to be a very solid motor.
I wasn't that impressed with the 88 KIPS valves, they seem to be made of some pretty cheap metal. I wasn't able to locate any 86 valves. Do you know if the later model valves will work?
All the KIPPS valve 86/88 will interchange/ alloy and steel {
IF You had a steel set i think the should last for ever
The steel one have a narrower stem than the alloy ones
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I pulled the cylinder off my bike last weekend, and was going to install the exhaust valves from the 88 head I bought on eBay. I stopped because I wanted to see if a buddy of mine could make new ones out of steel. While the cylinder was sitting on my work bench, I noticed that the exhaust ports that tie to the KIPS ports are very different from the 88 head I bought, and the one that came on my bike.
Here is the 88 head from eBay:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/E5B72EE6-3F54-4801-BA66-4674CABE66A7_zpshxnuqseq.jpg~original)
Here is the head from my motor:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/81BE24E7-443C-413D-83A1-06044D675DFC_zps1ywhoffk.jpg~original)
Does anyone know why the exhaust ports would be so different? Maybe the head was sleeved with a later model sleeve? I'm not that familiar with the K5 heads, and was hoping someone could help me figure it out. Thank you!
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Umberto,
Your original cylinder has an "89" & later sleeve, the eBay cylinder is the correct layout for the "88" & earlier....
DoldGuy
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Thank you for clearing that up for me. Do you think the later model sleeve will cause any issues with the engine's performance? Both of the exhaust ports flow into the hole for the KIPS opening, I just don't know if they line up with the holes in the valves anymore. Do you think I should clean up the 88 cylinder and use it instead?
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I personally like the 88 cylinder (eBay one). There has to be a huge loss of power with your current cylinder as most of the top of the port is being covered by that sleeve & the sub port windows are a big restriction too. Just my $.02
DoldGuy
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I say open her up and let her flow... :-D
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=3420)
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I say open her up and let her flow... :-D
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=3420)
mike, this mod, youve done, will take low end and add topend power ...
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Both being sleeved is a pain,
The ebay88 sleeve is going to a bit restricted on the inlet side{ inlet ribs on sleeve}
Not sure how your orginal cylinder will work out
issues will be higher exhaust centre port {and no centre flapper valve} will loose bottom end
Sub port not matching outlet
matching sleeve on inlet side miight have issues
Are the kipps chambers stiil opened on orginal cylinder? {since no valves were fitted]
I i would run the ebay cylinder {if no wear} or try and find a cheap 88 plated cylinder
A stock 88 for example {88 is one of the best early cylinders}
inlet side
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg119/cr500-af/kx500%2088%20cases/SAM_0637_zpsb3621e12.jpg~original)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg119/cr500-af/kx500%2088%20cases/SAM_0694_zpsnqn1xlly.jpg~original)
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The 88 cylinder does have the KIPS valves, they are just out right now. I have a buddy trying to make me a copy out of steel. I think I will take a closer look at that cylinder and see if it will work with this engine. Thank you for the advice everyone. If I get adventurous, I will get out the air grinder, harken back to my hot rod days, and give Sandblaster's port mod a try. :-D
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after reading this i kinda wanna put my 87 k5 in a 2006 kx 250, thats for sale near here :-D
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It's really not that tough to do. The 06 should be even easier than this 03 has been, because it's a little bit bigger bike.
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Actually, the 05-07 KX250s have a narrower frame. My 07 feels like a 125 compared to the 03/04 KXs. I prefer the 03/04 over the newer gen frames. 05 up have a quirky handling trait that would just be accentuated with a 500cc mill bolted in place.
I believe it would be pretty much the same amount of work to do though.
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I never thought about wider, but always felt like my 07 was just longer than my 03s and my 04. I may be wrong, but it sure looked and felt like it was. You're absolutely right about the handling. My 04 would turn circles around my 07.
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Ive fiddled with my 07 and have come to terms with its handling. I like it a lot in tight, technical terrain (does great pivot turns) but when riding in more open terrain I just dont trust the front end. Likes to knife and wash at times. There is a fix on here that involves changing the steering head angle by cutting and rewelding it. I have thought about doing it in the future. Im still faster on the 500 hybrid! It handles great!
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I measured the 1988 head that I got off eBay, and the bore is 88 mm. The head that came with the motor is 86 mm, so if I want to use the eBay head I will obviously need a new piston (Wossner makes one). The engine displacement calculator I found online said this combo would give me 523 cc. Do you guys think I should go that route (my life insurance is paid up), or should I try to find an 86 mm bore 1988 head on eBay? I think the sleeve on the eBay head is okay, but I don't have that much experience with non-coated cylinders. Is there anywhere I can send the cylinder to that can evaluate it? Thank you for the advice!
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I measured the 1988 head that I got off eBay, and the bore is 88 mm. The head that came with the motor is 86 mm, so if I want to use the eBay head I will obviously need a new piston (Wossner makes one). The engine displacement calculator I found online said this combo would give me 523 cc. Do you guys think I should go that route (my life insurance is paid up), or should I try to find an 86 mm bore 1988 head on eBay? I think the sleeve on the eBay head is okay, but I don't have that much experience with non-coated cylinders. Is there anywhere I can send the cylinder to that can evaluate it? Thank you for the advice!
I would u the ebay cylinder {if there is wear u would feel with your nail on Exhaust side /3mm below TDC where the rings stop
May be better to use a 88mm head gasket as well
The old wiseco with the cut out at the side are the lightest piston u can get
not sure if this is a old one are not but pretty cheap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WISECO-PISTON-BIG-BORE-KIT-1988-2004-KX-500-88MM-/271802068221?hash=item3f48aa6cfd&vxp=mtr
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The cylinder has some light marking, but no grooves at all. I think I should be okay. I am going to try a Wossner piston, Foxx and Sandblaster seem to really like them.
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Luckily, there was no side to side either. All in all it seems to be a very solid motor.
I wasn't that impressed with the 88 KIPS valves, they seem to be made of some pretty cheap metal. I wasn't able to locate any 86 valves. Do you know if the later model valves will work?
All the KIPPS valve 86/88 will interchange/ alloy and steel {
IF You had a steel set i think the should last for ever
The steel one have a narrower stem than the alloy ones
I took your advice and found a set of 86 steel valves on eBay. I hope to have them installed in the cylinder head this week. Sandblaster was nice enough to help me with getting an 88 mm Wossner and goodies so I can start putting the motor back together, which I hope to do this weekend. I'm heading to my parents for Labor Day, and there are a ton of places to ride in Southeastern Oklahoma. 525, here I come! :-D
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Got the exhaust valves cleaned up and installed. They fit without any issues and work very smoothly. Now I'm just waiting on the rest of the parts to arrive. Thanks for the tip Dave916, I feel a lot better about the steel valves in there.
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It shipped to me so hopefully I'll have it SOON!
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I can't wait to see a Wossner piston first hand, they look like works of art. Thank you again for your help in getting all that stuff ordered, Sandblaster!
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Got some goodies from Sandblaster Claus today. Ready to start assembling the 525!!
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/B5FC4C6C-9B98-4C51-A4D8-409A17ECA622_zps45sctrfa.jpg~original)
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I have a 87mm weisco, what size would that be? Its not in the bike, Im running the oem piston in mine.
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It's an 88 mm. It fits the head I bought on eBay that was sleeved.
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I have a 87mm weisco, what size would that be? Its not in the bike, Im running the oem piston in mine.
i think 87 is stock (check your manual)
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I have a 87mm weisco, what size would that be? Its not in the bike, Im running the oem piston in mine.
KX511.24
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I have a 87mm weisco, what size would that be? Its not in the bike, Im running the oem piston in mine.
i think 87 is stock (check your manual)
86mm is Stock...
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I was going to use it thinking it was a 86mm piston. Thanks!
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I got the new piston installed today and was able to fire it up. I only rode it up and down the driveway, but what a difference! I think this motor is going to live up to my expectations. I am still missing a tiny part on the KIPS linkage that should be here Tuesday and I will be done with the motor.
Funny story from my build today. I installed the circlip on one side of the piston and then installed the piston on the wrist pin. When I was trying to install the second circlip, it slipped out of my hand and disappeared. I stopped everything I was doing and started making search circles in my garage. About an hour later I gave up after verifying that it was not in the cases (I had stuffed rags all around the piston). Luckily I had a new circlip left over from another job, and it appeared to be the same size. I started trying to put it in, and it just wouldn't seat. I tried several different ways and still nothing. I got a little frustrated, and decided to compare the clip with the one I had installed, but the wrist pin wouldn't budge back out the side where I was trying to install the spare clip. I went ahead and removed the clip I had put in on the workbench, and the wrist pin came out. As I was looking at the piston, I finally caught a glimpse of something metallic in the groove where I had been trying to install the spare clip. The original one hadn't slipped out of the piston and flown off, it had actually flown in and seated. That's why the wrist pin wouldn't budge, it was installed and ready. I guess maybe it's time for some glasses for the garage. :-D
I should have everything finalized and ready for next weekend. A ride video should be coming.
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Glasses stink but it's nice to see what your doing :-D
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Getting old sure isn't for sissies. :-D
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I got the exhaust valve working and was able to fire it up last night. Unfortunately, it feels like it has low compression. I think that my cylinder was more worn that my calipers were showing. I'm going to test it with my handy dandy compression tester, but it looks like I get to tear the motor back down and get the cylinder re-plated. Yay! One day I swear I shall ride this thing!
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I got the exhaust valve working and was able to fire it up last night. Unfortunately, it feels like it has low compression. I think that my cylinder was more worn that my calipers were showing. I'm going to test it with my handy dandy compression tester, but it looks like I get to tear the motor back down and get the cylinder re-plated. Yay! One day I swear I shall ride this thing!
Did u check ring end gap in cylinder?
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I sent my cylinder to Millennium Technologies and sure enough, it was completely worn out. They are going to sleeve it to 86 mm, then bore it back to 88 mm so I can use my Wossner piston with some new rings and gaskets. Hopefully I will have it back in a few weeks and can finally ride the beast as God intended.
Meanwhile I was able to build a new pipe mount in Light Welding 2, and the instructor was nice enough to weld up the missing silencer mount on the subframe. Here's a pic of the pipe mount. It's made of 3/16" plate with a 1/2" solid steel pipe that I threaded to accept a 6 mm bolt. I braced the post from the side with some 1/8" solid bar for added strength. On the back I welded some more ?/?" stock on to keep the mount from moving around when bolted up (it fits flush against the stock raised pipe mount).
I attached the stock rubber mount to this mount, and it made a lot of difference in the amount of movement in the pipe. I still need to clean up the welds and paint it.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/E54A42AF-CC2E-4D1E-BBD8-1775A0A4D0BC_zpsqcl4q21e.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/B2607C4F-B33F-43FC-965F-2C33F5CF3786_zpsp0yjj0eg.jpg~original)
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Got a box in the UPS delivery today. After I unpacked it, look what I found...
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/1116ba91-33a4-4290-ac01-5cbf467046c6_zpsmok9lmh9.jpg~original)
Now if I can just sneak out of here without anyone seeing me...
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While I was waiting on the cylinder, I got a chance to rebuild the forks and shock. I also replaced the linkage and swingarm bearings, and added new brake pads. The bike is ready to go, now I just need to assemble and re-install the motor.
Of course my son's swim season just began, so I don't have a free weekend to ride the beast until probably Thanksgiving. But:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/Publication1_zpsiedzfg6k.jpg~original)
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Nice!
:-D
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I thought that guy was funny. He's some sort of TV Preacher, but he reminds me of a young Martin Short. :-D
Millennium did a really nice job on the cylinder. I know you know this Sandblaster, but for everyone else Millennium just started offering sleeving services as well. They're a great company to deal with, and now they can do everything in one place. Bonus!
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I got my face painted, camo on, escape route planned, and was making my run to freedom to install my cylinder when my wife reminded me that tonight is parent teacher conferences at the school.
(https://media.giphy.com/media/4BtwJzwVJBCP6/giphy.gif)
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:lol:
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Parent teacher conferences went really quickly this year. In and out in one hour. :-o I have twins and they have a couple of shared teachers, so I could kill two birds with one stone. Managed to sneak into the garage for a couple of hours and got a ton done. I am down to refitting the exhaust (I need to make a new silencer mount because I fixed the missing tab on the frame), adding fluids and kicking the snot out of her. Unfortunately it was too late tonight, so I will make a run at it tomorrow.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/609484A9-4025-4685-BA4F-621E737FE1FB_zpsvz2ps1os.jpg~original)
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I was able to get some more done on the bike tonight. I got all the final bits installed and rolled her outside to see what happens when she's kicked over for real. Started on the third or fourth real, full kick (I think I solved the compression problem for sure). I had the wife video it running for a bit. Sorry it's so dark, I had to do it quickly before the neighbors got together a lynch mob. :-D
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x0UVfU_Fl3Q&feature=em-upload_owner (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x0UVfU_Fl3Q&feature=em-upload_owner)
All that's left is to put on the new ASV levers and ride the snot out of it.
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Kickass!
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Sounds crisp....
Do your heat cycles 8-)
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Thank you gentlemen! I'm very excited to have it running. Don't worry Sanblaster, I'm going to heat cycle the heck out of it. After all I've been through with this motor, I may wrap it in bubble wrap between rides. :-D.
If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll do a video where you can actually see the bike. :lol:
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I got a comment on my video on YouTube.
Roostinkawie 1 week ago
neighbors?? 0 f@%ks given lol (edited for content)
:-D
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I did a heat cycle around the neighborhood today, so I had the wife take a quick video of the bike before I took off. It went around the block fine. I can't wait to ride it in the dirt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CxuPu-jA2w (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CxuPu-jA2w)
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Sounds angry :-o
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I've been having issues getting the bike to idle. It starts and runs really crisply, and it will idle if you hold the throttle open just a little bit, but you can't just let it set with the throttle closed. I tried adjusting the idle screw, but it just didn't make any difference. I decided to take out the screw to see if it was damaged, and lo and behold it was just a bolt the previous owner put in to replace the obviously lost original. :x So off to Rocky Mountain ATVMC I go to order a replacement in time for some riding hopefully this weekend, and of course the darn thing is no longer available. The newer model carb starts in 1994, and they are still shipping that idle screw assembly. Does anyone know if that will work on my carb, or am I going to have to fab one myself? It looks like it's just a screw that is rounded off at the end, a lock nut, and a spring.
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What is your carb number?
I think the 88 is a KEIHIN PWK V396
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I believe that is correct. Unfortunately, I'm at work now and I can only sneak out so many times or I risk giving away my Mexican Drug Tunnel like escape path. :-D It looks exactly like the parts fiche model.
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I found an idle screw on eBay that I should be here today. I tried over the weekend to make my own, but the threads were a little boogered in the carb and I couldn't get it to go in deep enough to work. I pulled the carb on the bike, fixed the threads, and made a temporary replacement that seemed to work. I had to make several attempts, because the idle screw is a bit of an optical illusion. It looks like a short distance, but it actually took the longest 6 mm all thread bolt I could find in my bolt box. It just keeps going and going.
I was working on getting the idle fixed Friday and I got to experience the reason everyone says to wear boots while starting a K5. I got a little cocky and tried to start the bike in tennis shoes. My foot slipped off the kickstarter, and needless to say I will have a permanent reminder of why one wears boots while kickstarting one of these angry beasts. Kept my no stitches streak alive (barely), but man it looked gnarly. Today my lower leg has a nice variation of all of the bruise colors, but the gash is closing up nicely. Lesson learned. :-D
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Think seriously about a decomp.
It makes things so much easier...
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I started that discussion in my head about 1.2 milliseconds after I missed that kick. :-D I think you have a really good point, and I may not be that lucky on the next missed kick.
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I got a chance to ride the bike a little bit this weekend before the shifter started acting up on me again. I'm ordering a new OEM shaft today so I can use a KX450F shifter I won at the Warrior Nationals, and hopefully that fixes it. The motor was powerful, but still feels a little lazy. Is it because I'm used to the quick reving 250, or could it be something like timing maybe?
The good news is that the suspension, brakes, and clutch all work really well and it's a very comfortable bike. It starts on the second kick, and it makes children cry. :-D
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On another note, does anyone know how to contact Larry's son for a compression release mod? That thing is brutal to start. :-D
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I got in touch with Larry, and he sent me all the info on getting the release installed. It's really affordable; I wish I would have sent it over when I had my cylinder at Millennium.
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I got my shifter issue fixed by swapping out an OEM 2004 shaft and putting a new shifter on the bike. It now shifts like a champ. I went over to Danger4U2's track and did some laps, but the motor still just doesn't seem happy. It doesn't rev cleanly under load, and I'm pretty sure that the jetting is very lean. It's a shame, because the rest of the bike works so well. I posted in the jetting section, but if anyone has any suggestions on where to start with the jets and needle position I would love the help. Thank you!
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sounds sweet, yo got any riding video coming up soon?
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Thank you! I'm still having some issues with the carb. As soon as I get that cleared up I will post a ride video so you guys can make fun of my riding. :-D
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Thank you! I'm still having some issues with the carb. As soon as I get that cleared up I will post a ride video so you guys can make fun of my riding. :-D
im just curious to se what that engine can do, mine is a 87 engine wich is almost the same, having some jetting/kips problom with mine to :|
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So I got all the stock jets in for my carb and got them installed, but now I am dealing with another issue that is familiar. When I was riding at Danger's place, the bike died as I was finishing up my test ride. I couldn't get it to start again, and it felt like it didn't have spark. I pulled the bike apart (one of the joys of the SF conversion is no room to do anything :-D) and did a process of elimination. The compression check came back in the 180 psi range, and there are no unusual noises or vibrations. The carb is flowing fuel, and the plug is new. So I checked for spark at the plug, and of course nothing. The OHM test revealed no flow through the plug wire, and the main wire was out of range. This is the second coil I have had on the bike, and the second fried one. I noticed that my mount was a little crooked and it is letting the end where the plug wire comes out touch the head a little bit. Do you guys think that this is causing the fried coils, or should I just replace everything and start over? I worried that something upstream is frying the coils and I am just putting a band aid on the problem.
Thank you again for the advice!
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I talked with zz3gmc about his 2004 250/500 bike, and I think I am going to relocate the coil to the side of the frame like he did, away from the engine behind the radiator shrouds. I think the heat and vibration is just cooking them.
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So I got all the stock jets in for my carb and got them installed, but now I am dealing with another issue that is familiar. When I was riding at Danger's place, the bike died as I was finishing up my test ride. I couldn't get it to start again, and it felt like it didn't have spark. I pulled the bike apart (one of the joys of the SF conversion is no room to do anything :-D) and did a process of elimination. The compression check came back in the 180 psi range, and there are no unusual noises or vibrations. The carb is flowing fuel, and the plug is new. So I checked for spark at the plug, and of course nothing. The OHM test revealed no flow through the plug wire, and the main wire was out of range. This is the second coil I have had on the bike, and the second fried one. I noticed that my mount was a little crooked and it is letting the end where the plug wire comes out touch the head a little bit. Do you guys think that this is causing the fried coils, or should I just replace everything and start over? I worried that something upstream is frying the coils and I am just putting a band aid on the problem.
Thank you again for the advice!
i think with electronics the wires transfers any heat FAST so relocating is definatly a good idea by you
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I got my coil relocated and replaced with another one from Sandblaster. I got her fired up and took her for a quick ride at my parent's house. Here's a quick video of a section of the ride:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNJZiJI2We8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNJZiJI2We8)
Here I am returning from the ride. Man it was wet in the old cow pasture:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/CAF7A7F2-3BF3-4A37-9E6D-E3C75022D27A_zpsfqgtnib5.jpg~original)
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(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f373/Alexander_Veldman/11518290_zpsigwwrb46.jpg~original)
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Thank you Alexander-vmann. It was really nice to have it running better, although I still need to fine tune the jetting a bit. My Dad did the video, and he said I was hitting them with dirt for quite a while after I passed them, so I guess it's doing pretty well as is. :-D
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Here is a picture of the bracket I did for the coil. It keeps it away from the engine and doesn't rub anything.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/F1CAE86C-08E9-4F71-8012-F150AB81E42E_zpsvoaiczo9.jpg~original)
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awesome build mate !
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Thank you skunkworks! I've had a blast building it.
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Happy New Year everyone! For New Years I decided to try out bronchitis to see if I like it. I think I agree with Sweet Brown:
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/ec/bf/0d/ecbf0d85c0a49165abc6e3ee91e2839a.jpg)
Since I'm stuck inside anyway, why not annoy the wife and go out to the garage instead of resting. :evil: After my last ride I decided that the front brake needed an upgrade. Thankfully I had some bonus bucks and a couple of gift cards to Rocky Mountain, so I picked up this dude:
(https://images.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/275/t/tus_12_ove_flo_typ_bra_rot_kit-fro.jpg)
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/765/35148/Tusk-Oversized-Floating-Typhoon-Brake-Rotor-Kit-Front?term=tusk+oversized+rotor (https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/765/35148/Tusk-Oversized-Floating-Typhoon-Brake-Rotor-Kit-Front?term=tusk+oversized+rotor)
It is a substantial upgrade over the stock sized disk I had:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/378FDF16-43AB-41D5-88E0-41AC04766870_zpswa812efv.jpg~original)
It does not list as compatible for an 03, but the caliper will bolt up without any brake line issues, and it will work with the Tusk wheels I have on the bike (2004 and up). I stated in a previous post that I was able to use the wheels with two brake side spacers, but I forgot to add that I needed to adjust them down a bit to work. The brake side is approximately 33.50 mm and the other side is approximately 32.50 mm. I would start with them a little larger than those measurements and work your way down to the right size. I started with the brake side to center the rotor in the caliper, and then adjusted the other side until the wheel fit. It's not a ton of adjustment, but it does need to be done to use the wheels.
Here is a final pic with the rotor fitted and ready to haul Goliath (my father's nickname for the bike) down from speed:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/605C1CBA-2F96-4ED4-8338-FA82325F5DAD_zpsan2lnwtp.jpg~original)
I've got a couple more fun mods to try out before I'm done with her. Then it's time to blow her apart and address the unpainted welds and general appearance. I think I really like the looks of this 250 Foxx posted. What do you guys think?
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/C53CC075-5D28-44FF-A167-D1DCAFF2CD63.png_zpsy5mcl62k.jpeg~original)
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I think your doing a great job.
Just keep doing what your doing 8-)
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I think your doing a great job.
Just keep doing what your doing 8-)
Thank you Sandblaster! I'm starting to understand why you guys love these big two strokes so much. They're a blast to work on and ride. Of course I couldn't have built it without all the help you guys gave me.
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So I have two more modifications I would like to do to my bike before I tear it apart and powder coat the frame. One of those things is to address the carburetor issues I have been having. Foxx suggested I get a Lectron carb, and after hearing his and other's positive thoughts on them, I decided that it would work well with my setup. I spoke with Dennis at Packard racing and ordered a carb custom set up for my altitude and motor setup. It arrived along with a new throttle housing (more on that later) that must be used with carb. Dennis suggested that I first boil the intake and carb together for a five minutes so the rubber would relax to the larger size of the new carb and not crack. I purchased a new intake from Kawasaki and waited for the wife to leave the house so I could steal her pot and stove. I measured the water to make sure it hit the carb where it needed to, got it boiling, and then perched the carb on top of the pot so that just the intake and carb horn were in the water. It looked something like this:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/BE5B9004-ABF4-4757-8681-79A64C379205_zpsjkb53msh.jpg~original)
I had previously modified the new intake per Sandblaster's instructions to use the VForce 2 reeds that came with my motor. I bolted that all up to the intake and began the process of shoe-horning the carb into the now very small space. A couple of tips if you are going to do this swap:
1. Buy longer bolts for your clamps, the carb is larger than stock
2. You will probably have to move your airbox boot clamp, as it won't fit below the carb anymore due to a larger bowl. I used an allen bolt on top of the clamp to make it easier to tighten.
3. Put your throttle cable in first, you won't be able to work on it after the carb is in.
The carb takes up nearly the entire area, and it a bit of a bear to get in place. There is a little bit of room for the throttle cable at the top, but it is a tight fit.
The darn thing looks cool on the bike:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/BE170E94-DA9A-41BB-9188-8961FE7592B4_zpsahbqhcch.jpg~original)
Now I was on to the throttle. As I put the new housing on my handlebar, I ran into a problem. The throttle housing is made by Magura, and is round all the way around. This doesn't allow any room for the front brake lever to move. I called Dennis, and he suggested that I use the stock housing if I could. Unfortunately, the new throttle cable does not have the screw in adjuster/stop like the stock cable. I was able to make it work by cutting the adjuster/stop off the stock cable and making the following modifications:
1. I cut a long slot lengthwise with a Dremmel tool and a cut off wheel. I also sanded the end flush so I could drill it out larger.
2. I put a nut on the shaft and used that to hold it in a vise without crushing it closed. I then drilled the end out to just over 1/4" so the new cable would slip in.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/CBCDEDD5-F37B-42F3-824B-34534CAC226E_zpstwqp1egp.jpg~original)
3. I cut housing and the adjustor/shaft down so that it did not pull on the throttle when fully closed. I made sure that you could tighten the adjuster/stop down all the way without it interfering with the cable pivot.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/51FCA5DD-ACE5-459E-998A-95D8A3AF0481_zpspy9ffypi.jpg~original)
Voila! Now I am ready to see if it will run. Unfortunately I have a swim meet to go to this weekend, so a ride report will have to wait a bit.
Have a great weekend everyone!
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If anyone is looking for Packard's website, here it is again:
http://packardracing.com/start.php?page=categories.php (http://packardracing.com/start.php?page=categories.php)
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I missed this...good to see you went with the Lectron, which size is that?....I'm very curious to see how well your fuel mileage/consumption is gonna be.
nice job with the throttle housing too.
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I'm embarrassed to say I forgot. We talked about the setup, and Dennis said we'll use this carb, and I kind of forgot. I'm going to call him on Monday to update him on my fix, so I'll ask him the size and specifics. He's a super nice guy.
I'm interested in the fuel consumption as well. The Lectron looks a lot larger than the stock carb, and I'm already short on fuel with the 250 tank. It might be time for an oversized tank.
I'll keep you posted once I get a free moment to ride it again.
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Your going to like tuning it :-o
you have to remove the slide for every adjustment with my ziptie tank its a pain in the butt and the one in my T4 is worse you have to remove the carb every time other than that the are great.
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This conversion is so tight, I have to disassemble this bike to do just about everything anyway. I'm pretty excited to ride it. I think my old carb was worn out a bit, so this should really wake her up.
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That is a 44 Lectron, Packard can (or could) turn down the O.D. Of the carb to fit the stock intake boot just as the PWK.
Umberto, I hope your cable setup works well for you, if you have issues, I posted about the cables I had made specific to the KX500 using a Lectron & the stock throttle assembly, which fits very well.
I'm also curious about your PWK that was on your 500, have you pulled the main jet block off to inspect its o-ring (has 2 security torx bolts holding it on)?
DoldGuy
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Thank you for clearing the carb size up Doldguy. We talked about a lot of different things, and I was more focused on tuning and installation. Plus I have the attention span of a gnat. :-D. Dennis did turn it down quite a bit, but he still recommended boiling it for long term. It's close, but just a bit bigger. The throttle cable works really smoothly so far, but I'll keep an eye on it. I don't want to hang a throttle on something this fast.
I'm at a swim meet with my son today, but I will take a look at the stock carb when I get home tomorrow. I am assuming it is worn because it ran so much better with Danger's carb on it, even though the jetting was close in both carbs.
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new carb? now im kinda jealous :-D cant wait to see goliath run wide open :-o
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So I finally got a chance to fire Goliath up with the new carb, and dear Lord did that make a difference. No more hesitation at low rpm. It lit the rear tire up going out of my driveway like a funny car. I think I'm going to like this bike even more now. :evil:
I also ordered an IMS 3.1 gallon tank. I got it in black, which is custom order, so it may take up to eight weeks to get here. I guess I'll just have to stay close to home for now. :-D
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That's Great News! Do you know what needle he sent with the carb (4-2Xl,5-2Xl) ? Also don't forget if/when you get time, check the main jet block on the PWK (I am a Curious George :roll:)
DoldGuy
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I kept telling myself to write down the needle, because everyone seemed interested on the last Lectron thread. I remembered that I wanted to write it down, right as I finally got the carb in the intake boot. I couldn't bring myself to take it back off. I still haven't talked to Dennis about my throttle fix, so I'll call tomorrow and get the needle when I update him.
I've got the old carb on the workbench. I'll get some pics on Saturday to satisfy your curiosity. I'm curious to see what's going on in there as well.
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I spoke with Dennis this afternoon, and he told me that he had installed a 5-2 needle in the carb. My riding areas vary from 450 to 1100 feet above sea level (if I don't go up a mountain near my parent's place), if that helps any.
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One of the last things I wanted to do to Goliath (I'm starting to like that nickname) was to add a Trail Tech Vapor computer. The reason I wanted one is to be able to monitor the engine temp, but having a tachometer and speedometer is nice too. While I had the tank off for the carb swap I went ahead and put the tachometer lead on the plug wire, and covered it with electrical tape to keep it place.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/C931BE27-1FB7-4FDB-ACC9-59AA52A75333_zps3q8kazhc.jpg~original)
The temperature gauge uses a sensor that goes in the radiator hose. I had to use a tube to connect my radiator hose originally, so I just replaced the tube with the sensor. It works really well.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/ACE7F113-AC93-4F6E-BE27-445F9780C69F_zpslomvaclg.jpg~original)
The last piece is the wheel speed sensor. To fit it, you must drill a hole in the caliper mounting bracket and use the included self tapping screw. Because I am using the oversized rotor, I had to adjust the mounting spot quite a bit. I used some electrical tape to hold the sensor in place so I could test to make sure it worked. I ended up on the opposite side from where the recommended, but it seems to be working fine.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/35B51ACD-FC44-4A59-8C2A-F708B6998AAA_zps52lotxly.jpg~original)
I mounted the computer behind the handlebars, hoping It would protect it from roost and wrecks.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/3E147BA6-BF1D-4D3C-8E29-B0FD0108C1A7_zpszcwitfrr.jpg~original)
I took the bike around the block to test everything, and I was amazed again at how well the carburetor works. It is about 40 degrees outside, and the bike started, idled, and ran so crisply. Best modification I've ever made to a bike. I desperately need to go ride this dude. Hopefully I'll have some time next weekend.
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That's Great News! Do you know what needle he sent with the carb (4-2Xl,5-2Xl) ? Also don't forget if/when you get time, check the main jet block on the PWK (I am a Curious George :roll:)
DoldGuy
i pulled the main jet block, and I think you were right on. The o-ring looks very ratty.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/F4642A91-011B-43DE-9322-3F85C7B677A3_zpscxkfc4rf.jpg~original)
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I forgot my niece made this video of Goliath in action on Christmas day. Not very long, but pretty good sound.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14ahsC3W66o (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14ahsC3W66o)
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nice!
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Yes!
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I can't wait to get a video with the new carb. It sounds downright mean with the Lectron. :mrgreen:
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I took Goliath out for a test ride on Sunday, and the carb is adjusted perfectly from open to 1/2 throttle. It's very crisp and responsive. Unfortunately from 1/2 to full throttle it bogs pretty badly. Thankfully it's just some tuning on the carb and no major parts. Foxx asked about the gas mileage, and it is pretty bad. We made about 20 miles yesterday and I would estimate I used about 3/4 of a tank or more to make those twenty miles, and that was using only half throttle and lugging a lot. I think the larger tank can't get here soon enough.
If you didn't read my ride story, the question of what stops a KX 500 was answered: The world's deepest rut. Of course Danger had to get a couple of pictures of it:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/CDC924B8-0AE5-40EE-AF02-265853DBBB98_zps59d9hmey.jpg~original)
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I am closing in on my final mods before I blow the bike apart, powder coat the frame, get Larry to add a decompression switch, and add graphics.
I decided to try new springs on my bike, because I felt like the valving was pretty close. I got springs from Race Tech using their calculator to determine rate. I like that the spring is blue to match the rest of the accents.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/607B0671-3BCF-4BB8-A80E-A276C705BF87_zpso5r4cfhx.jpg~original)
I haven't had a chance to ride it yet, but I hope to sneak out Sunday morning. I did some tuning on the carb to fix the full throttle bog, so I'm anxious to ride it.
I also replaced the terrible seat cover that came with the bike.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/ABD2553A-70FE-4449-92E6-0ED0C8E530EE_zpsdtpjyk3p.jpg~original)
I found this air stapler at Harbor Freight Tools. It was $21.99, and had wider staples than the other stapler I had. It worked pretty well for the money and made installing the cover a breeze.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/74BD2A7D-2B6A-4922-9898-D5DE3809B885_zpseffqzwvr.jpg~original)
All I have left to do is the oversized tank, which will be here Monday, and one final ride and I'll be blowing it apart.
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Looking good! Im in the middle of a long awaited rebuild of mine!
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Post some pics, or it didn't happen. :-D
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If I get a chance, I dont usually take pics of a rebuild. I'll definitely take some finished product pics. Cyl is out getting replated and the exhaust bridges welded up. Going to send the head to Larry for the decomp mod. May experiment with lowered suspension maybe a half inch. Freshen up linkage bearings. Paint and graphics etc. Been riding the wheels off of it since it was built in 11! I have a 24hr race in NY coming up in july and I really want to race it there. I raced my 07 250 there last year.
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i have race tech spring on mine, cant say anything bad about it
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I ended up replacing both ends with Race Tech springs. It really stands up now when I sit on it, instead of sagging down. I fired it up today, and it sounds like the jetting is pretty close to perfect now. I may try to sneak out to my cousin's place and rip it around for a few minutes in the morning. I can't be gone too long, the Super Bowl is on tomorrow evening. :-D
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Thats on tomorrow? Shows you how much I know about football! I'll be out riding!
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Sadly, I don't care who wins. I just watch for the commercials and attend for the food. Food coma, here I come!
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I took Goliath out on Sunday, and was able to sort a few things out. The carburetor's power jet was insanely rich from the factory. I initially thought that one half turn would make a difference, and we ended up turning it three turns, with probably two more to go to get it right. It was hard to get to the screw, so we got it headed in the right direction and decided to put the last two turns in after I got home. It's jetted very well with the needle, but it was nearly all the way out (rich) on the power jet. Thankfully it doesn't involve buying any parts, just small hands to get to the screw.
The suspension was much better, although I might still have the front forks redone. There is a bit of harshness that I couldn't adjust out with the clickers. The shock felt good as is, so I'll probably leave it alone. Once I blow the bike apart for powder coating I'll probably send the forks to Race Tech for some love. Of course that involves me not riding the bike, which is really hard because it is a blast to ride.
I got my IMS 3 gallon tank in yesterday. The folks at Just Gas Tanks were very nice and got me the tank faster than the originally estimated. IMS made a black version of the tank for me, which is semi-custom (but did not cost more) and takes a bit longer. I didn't want to go with clear because it yellows over time. I'll need to do some adjusting (like with the stock tank), but I think it will look very nice when installed. Goliath's fuel consumption is not as bad as I originally thought, but having that extra gallon is nice insurance.
I post some pics with the tank fitted, and maybe one more ride report, and then it's time to bite the bullet and make her look pretty.
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I hit bottom (fully leaned out) with the power jet adjustment on my Lectron, and still didn't get the bog to go away. I spoke with Dennis, and he decided to swap my 5x needle for a 3x. It should be here Monday. It's our spring break, so my son and I are traveling to Southeastern Oklahoma on Tuesday to do some riding in the mountains, so I hope to have a ride report and video with the carb sorted out.
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I am taking the bike down to the mountains this weekend to sort out the carb. In the meantime I swapped over my KYB kit suspension from my KDX Hybrid, and rerouted the brake line using an 04 KX 250 line and 2008 RM guards. I did another post on the brake line reroute; it's pretty easy. I can't wait to ride the bike with the better suspension and hopefully better tuned carb.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/3CB7E8E7-458A-4ED8-A39E-8258149CBB78_zps3mssbvfl.jpg~original)
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You are going to love your front brake, not Brembo power, but a lot closer!
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You are going to love your front brake, not Brembo power, but a lot closer!
It sure feels better. I can't wait to try it out. I realized I haven't ridden this beast in two months, and that's nearly criminal. :-D
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I took Goliath out for a run on Saturday to see if the new needle fixed the issue. It still felt rich, and blubbered when hammered. I think it just needs a few turns of the screw leaner. Unfortunately I didn't have a chance to tune on it much because I found a missing chunk of concrete (that we didn't know we were missing) that was hiding in the overgrown grass in my parents' pasture. One washout high speed crash and trip to the ER later, I'm laid up with a bum shoulder. Thankfully I think it's just tweaked, and Goliath only suffered a broken clutch perch. I'll try to get another ride report once I've healed up a bit.
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Glad to here you are okay, it always concerns me riding in an area that I can not see "What's Under There"....had a similar experience in my younger (AKA Stupid) days.
Obviously you did not have much time on it, but what did you think about the front brake?
Also where does the bike feel blubbery? Midrange/Topend/Bottom?
DoldGuy
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Thank you doldguy, I think my pride was the most bruised off all. :-D. I've been riding that pasture since I was six, I just never saw what I hit. The front brake felt really good; it made a huge difference. The blubbering was after half throttle, where I was having the issues before I installed the smaller needle. Of course Dennis just guessed on where to start with the power jet with the 3X needle. I planned on adjusting it, but I crashed about five minutes into my ride. Ruined a perfect day to ride, but at least I walked away from it.
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I made a trip to the Orthopedic Doc today about my shoulders. Sadly I managed to hurt both of them. The right shoulder checked out okay, but he thinks I may have torn my rotator cuff in my left shoulder. I'm going in for an MRI tomorrow. If you're the praying kind, I would appreciate a little prayer. I read online that the recovery time is 4 to 6 months. :-o
You may want to stay tuned to see if Mrs. Umberto hangs a for sale sign on this dude if I did tear it. :-D
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Good luck bro!! My crews thoughts and prayers will be with / you also. Hope she won't take that beast away from ya, just tell her it takes a little bit to tame it!!
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Thank you reklessj, it's very much appreciated! I'm pretty certain that she won't take Goliath away from me, as she's very understanding about my life long love of bikes. We do own a The UPS Store franchise, and if I can't work (lift heavy things) during Christmas peak season, she might sell me and keep the bike. :-D
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good luck! :mrgreen:
I know all about shoulder injuries too...
I dislocated my right one 17 times over a 4 year period...totally different from rotator cuff injuries.
finally the doc said to me one day in early '94...."ya know, one of these times that thing's gonna pop out the wrong way, damage the right/wrong nerve, and the only thing I'm gonna be able to do for you....is amputate."
:-o :-o :-o :-o....I sold the snowmobile I had at the time for next to nothing :x, cause I didn't have health insurance back then...the guy that bought it drove 6 hours down from NH the 2nd day it was listed in the "want-ads"...two weeks later I had it permanently fixed, I was down for about 2 1/2 months, but I was only 22yo, so I recovered quickly....
knock on wood, 22 years later at 44yo, it's never bothered me.
it all started from being stupid, on an '84 DR100, doing wheelies on the pavement...started looping out, so I jumped off to the side still holding on to the bars, figuring I'd be able to run along side it and slow it down :roll:....ya right...what I didn't consider, was that I was going about 25mph...my legs couldn't run that fast, and down I went...landing on an out-stretched hand...end of story. :|
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Ouch! I think I tried that maneuver before as a kid, with about the same results. Thankfully I was on dirt and going pretty slow. Glad to hear that you've recovered form your shoulder issues.
Thank you for the good luck wish. I'll keep you guys posted tomorrow. I'm just ready to know one way or the other.
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I'm done with the MRI, but will have to wait a bit to hear from the doctor. I forgot how much you feel like a torpedo going into that MRI tube. :-D
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Well, looks like my good luck streak is done. Doc called to tell me I have a tear in my rotator cuff. Thankfully it's only torn 20%, and not a complete tear, but it will require surgery and 3-6 months of physical therapy. Just have to suck it up and power through it I guess. Please post lots of videos of you riding so I can live vicariously through you guys.
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Bummer man get well soon, and rehab it right
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Thank you reklessj! I plan to attack the physical therapy and get as close to 3 months as possible. I can't have the surgery until late July, and I really need to be ready for Christmas season at the store.
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Today is one of those days that is torture if you can't ride. High 80s, low 90s, but pretty decent breezes. I repaired all the crash damage to Goliath (broken clutch perch, front end was a bit tweaked), and updated the look a little bit with the green side plates. I also added the Pro Circuit fork decals I got from Australia.
Ugh, I wish I could ride this beast...
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/03CCECFB-555E-44B8-9848-84C33A7326C2_zpsphkrydy7.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/BFDF6269-E889-4628-ACE4-4BAD2A7D0A92_zpseg6d8ikp.jpg~original)
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The KYB kit forks that are on Goliath have always been a point of concern with me. The 2003 triple clamps bottom out when tightening on the forks, and I don't think they are getting a good bite. I tried contacting Emig racing to see if they still had the triple clamps that Pro Circuit used back in the day; they didn't carry them, and they wanted $800 to do a custom set. Undaunted, I busted out the old trusty calipers and Sandblaster's awesome interchange list and was able to determine that the 2001 triples are exactly the size I need for the forks (the Pro Circuit forks are 46 mm, but larger than the earlier 98 models forks they were meant to replace). I got a set of the clamps, and bingo they fit great on the forks. The only issue I have is that the steering stem on the 2001 is shorter than the 2003. It looks like the stem from the 2003 is the same size in the clamps, so I should be able to press it into the 2001 lower triple. I have never had to press out the triple clamp stem, so I wanted to see if anyone had any tips or tricks. I watched a video on Rocky Mountain and it seems pretty straightforward, but I figure it's cheaper to check with you guys first. Anything I should watch out for? My father has a 30 ton shop press, is that sufficient to accomplish the job?
Thank you!
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I got the steering stem pressed out of the 2001 triple clamps and pressed back the 2003 stem. Very easy process with the right tools and a press. I used this video as a reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2R92wxhc4_E (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2R92wxhc4_E)
I bought that Park Tool they recommended and it worked like a champ. Once I got the bearing installed, I installed the clamps on the bike. The new clamps get a very good grip on the forks, which is comforting because I'm pretty certain that the forks turned in the clamps when I hit the concrete chunk causing the big wreck.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/D7D48AD2-27E2-4531-848C-2C0A59251BEE_zps5izugyhp.jpg~original)
I have an issue with the non brake fork lug threads being stripped, and I still need to fit the front number plate, but another ride report should be coming soon.
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I am happy to report I finally got the carb tuned correctly. You can roll the throttle on from any gear and rpm, and it just pulls. I ended up coming in two more full turns on the power jet. This motor is stout, but really manageable if you treat it with respect.
With the triple clamps sorted, the kit suspension is perfect for the bike and I am really starting to love riding this bike. I'm at my parents this weekend, so I'll try to get a ride video together tomorrow.
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I am happy to report I finally got the carb tuned correctly. You can roll the throttle on from any gear and rpm, and it just pulls. I ended up coming in two more full turns on the power jet. This motor is stout, but really manageable if you treat it with respect.
With the triple clamps sorted, the kit suspension is perfect for the bike and I am really starting to love riding this bike. I'm at my parents this weekend, so I'll try to get a ride video together tomorrow.
Glad to see you got your carb sorted. How crisp is it in comparison to the OEM carb? Did you have to fiddle with the main needle any? Let's see some new videos of it! :mrgreen:
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It is a lot more crisp than the stock carb. I had to switch from the 5x needle to the 3x needle, and turn the power jet in four turns or so to get it right. Once I got it dialed, it made a huge difference over the stock carb. I think you will be pleased with yours.
I will definitely get some video tomorrow. I'm really pleased with how it's turned out.
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Goliath in action:
https://youtu.be/txLSPxKpuzk (https://youtu.be/txLSPxKpuzk)
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It is a lot more crisp than the stock carb. I had to switch from the 5x needle to the 3x needle, and turn the power jet in four turns or so to get it right. Once I got it dialed, it made a huge difference over the stock carb. I think you will be pleased with yours.
I will definitely get some video tomorrow. I'm really pleased with how it's turned out.
Awesome. Just curious - what state do you live in? I haven't tested the Lectron yet, but hopefully the 5-2XL needle will work for my application. Hopefully I get good results like you did!
Goliath in action:
https://youtu.be/txLSPxKpuzk (https://youtu.be/txLSPxKpuzk)
Bike looks and sounds awesome!
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Thank you for the compliments on the bike. It's turned out better than I could have hoped. I will need to address the fuel capacity soon, which is something you might want to consider as well. It goes through a tank in a heartbeat.
I live in Oklahoma City at 1,100 feet above sea level. Where the video was made is in southeastern Oklahoma which ranges from 450 to 2,500 above sea level if we get into the mountains. i hope these settings will work back in OKC, but I may have to make a tiny adjustment to compensate for the extra 700 feet. I'm pretty sure your 5x will work. My motor is bored, and everything I've read says bigger bore motors run a little leaner than stock bores. I could be off on that, but my motor always seemed to like leaner carbs.
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I finally got around to getting my graphics ordered from Decal Works. They are great to work with, especially if you have a lot of different parts like I do. I always deal with Sean, he's the man. Anyway, here is what I came up with:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/69D23F8A-3029-4EB2-BFF5-19DF6FE4594A_zpslx2twes1.jpg~original)
Got some small custom touches included:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/9FAF4304-A2AC-46F2-BEBD-6B150B29C007_zpsyeq73zeg.jpg~original)
Front View:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/71529AD4-7F24-4573-9B57-F34794B5119B_zps8gtseuaa.jpg~original)
I got a new head gasket in hand so I can send my head off to Larry for a compression release. While I have it apart, I am going to powder coat the frame and swingarm flat black. That is if I can stop riding it for a couple of weeks. Now that the carb is dialed in, it's a bit like having a drug addiction. :-D
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I went riding yesterday, and the carb did not seem to notice the additional 700 feet of elevation. It's good to know that the Lectron is not terribly sensitive to changes in altitude.
The only issue I had yesterday was that Goliath makes my 250 a little boring to ride. :-D
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I've always been concerned about the motor in Goliath being a one year wonder. I've been wanting to put some stuff away just in case, so I scored a set of extra cases from Sandblaster. They were treated to some custom mods, and of course a vapor blasting. Only issue I have is they make the ones on the bike look a little tattered. I'm so glad I don't live closer to his shop, or I'd have to sell a kidney or something to pay my vapor blasting bill. :-D
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/2E807A22-1C43-43A9-B0B0-37D945EB8846_zpsekettydb.jpg~original)
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So you decided to get 89on cases
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Those came from an 88 that Sandblaster was parting out. I may try to snatch up the cylinder head as well.
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Those came from an 88 that Sandblaster was parting out. I may try to snatch up the cylinder head as well.
At a glance they look like 89on , not the best pictures though
How many kipps holes on base gasket surface
The 88 stuff will fit on the 89 cases ok
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I wished they were 89 and on... I would have sold them for WAY more :-D
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I wished they were 89 and on... I would have sold them for WAY more :-D
The left one in picture {clutch side} is defiantly 89on
Not 100% sure about flywheel side unless i see the inner or top side
Maybe someone fitted a set of 89 cases to the 88motor sometime
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I'll try to get some more pictures tomorrow for you guys to look at.
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Here are some pictures of the cases from a little closer with better lighting.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/08FD27C8-82FC-4866-AD99-A2C94D31EFDF_zpstdzrpilh.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/D540625C-13A7-4871-968D-0DCBA05CE99A_zpsaqp3w3n1.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/062976DC-D907-4C4A-B0EF-2595FDB40475_zpsv1di4aic.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/8E1F8829-FE01-4C08-90C3-A8D96F06B25F_zpsqlly1pze.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/85399EFE-2783-4AB2-86AB-EB87ED8C5D8D_zpsxzu4jpdt.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/D4F0FCFF-C4FB-4B56-9531-0919FCE21EFD_zpsa9wuofhl.jpg~original)
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I guess I should ask the obvious question: If the clutch side is 89 and up, will it still work with the ignition side if it's an 88?
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I guess I should ask the obvious question: If the clutch side is 89 and up, will it still work with the ignition side if it's an 88?
They are a set of 89on cases / they look pretty good
No problem fitting ur 88 stuff to them , only extra bits u need are a case pin dowel /gearbox bearing retainair {about $8 total}
Main differance on cases are extra hole for kips{88 top end still fits }
Bigger engine mount hole 10mm /8mm on 88
Less case volume on 89on {which might not ideally suit you big bore} but at least u have option of fitting a later topend
89 case are way to go
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Do I just need these two items?
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/Case%20Diagram_zpscsjhe402.jpg~original)
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That them :-)
IF you had a early motor {86} the 89 cases would not work
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I've been trying to increase Goliath's fuel capacity for a long time now, without much luck. The IMS and Clarke tanks for the 2004 didn't work, they hit the head where the petcock came down. The IMS tank for the 2007 had the same problem. ZZ3GMC suggested the Clarke 2005 to 2007 tank, so I ordered one from justgastanks.com in black. It finally came in Friday and I had a chance to work on it today. It did not have the deep petcock area so it was much closer to fitting than any of the other tanks, but it did need some adjustment. I was having the most problems in the head stay area, which required both some grinding on the head stay and heat gun work. In order to spread out the pressure and not poke a hole, I made a cover for the area out of 2" PVC that I cut lengthwise so it would slip over the area. I would heat the area on the tank, and then put the tank on bike so I could apply pressure and hold it while it cooled. I slowly added some Gorilla Tape to make the PVC thicker, and re-heated the area. It was slow going, and the PVC piece had to be pretty thick with tape when I was done, but it fits really well.
Here is the PVC piece:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/B1BA999F-348E-487A-B2AD-AFBF18405251_zpsf7mt1q0g.jpg~original)
Here is the tank mounted:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/F66C6A8D-B851-454A-94D5-0C8C120D1747_zpsi9ebrgbi.jpg~original)
All buttoned up and ready to go:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/AA05D4F0-F719-4511-B60F-EDF4CB79E7AF_zpssvilvq2w.jpg~original)
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Did you use the standard mounting hole by the steering head? My tank is spaced up slightly. I made a short extension bracket and bolted it to the existing mounting hole which let me mount the tank flush with the frame and forward. My lower radiator mount is moved forward about an 1/8" to provide clearance by the head for the bottom of the radiator tanks. If left in the stock position the tanks hit the head. Ill be putting the bike back together (after a loooong 2 year rebuild) so Ill try to take pics.
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Wow!
Very nice work.
Somehow I missed the questions on the cases..
Sorry about that...
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Did you use the standard mounting hole by the steering head? My tank is spaced up slightly. I made a short extension bracket and bolted it to the existing mounting hole which let me mount the tank flush with the frame and forward. My lower radiator mount is moved forward about an 1/8" to provide clearance by the head for the bottom of the radiator tanks. If left in the stock position the tanks hit the head. Ill be putting the bike back together (after a loooong 2 year rebuild) so Ill try to take pics.
I did have to redo my top mount with a small bracket, but it fits down pretty close to flush in the back. It clears the head and everything else really well now. Thank you for suggesting the Clarke tank, it saved me a lot of work and expense with plastic welding.
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Wow!
Very nice work.
Somehow I missed the questions on the cases..
Sorry about that...
Thank you sandblaster! No worries on missing the question, I know you've been busy.
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I got the oversized tank to fit, but there were a couple of areas that concerned me and I kept remembering that zz3gmc told me that he had to center his head stay mount in order for the tank to fit. I decided to tear Goliath back down and center the head stay to gain more clearance by the petcock area. It was about a four hour project, but it was really worth it as I gained some clearance behind the petcock. In welding class I had previously cut the stock head stay back, shortened it, and put a piece of plate in to connect the two halves. I did not move it from the stock offset location, which is about 1 1/2 inches off the shock mount. I moved it over today to be in line with the shock mount. Much further the other way and it would hit the other side of the tank.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/91215D85-84C4-419C-8F41-A0653C0335D8_zpskrqbygkg.jpg~original)
My welding is a little crude, but I tend to over stick the items and then grind them back a couple of times until only looks like a fifth grader (not a first grader) welded it. :-D If you are building a conversion on this chassis, I would highly recommend doing this from the get go. It will save you a ton of work down the road.
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I forgot to mention that I used the 250 head stays, which are much shorter than the 500 stays. You will need to re-bend them to move the frame section of the head stay over, but they are handy for holding the steel frame section in place as you measure and mark.
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Vibration is a big issue with Goliath, so I thought I would add some anti-vibration bar ends to see if they would help. I had really good luck with the Best Dual Sport Bikes dead ends, but I've wanted to try some that I saw on Rocky Mountain because they seem a lot more compact. These are made by Faast company:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/8CFE1331-7208-4059-BC3D-0CFEC059177F_zpsqakqqije.jpg~original)
I added some ODI bolt on grips; I figured it would be better to use them instead of gluing over the bar ends. The thing I like about the Faast bar ends is that they fit flush with the end of the bar, and the grips go over them:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/EDD35C3B-FBBB-4F58-A3C8-BA6AD905BB89_zps0puf7eeb.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/D417C507-35E4-4CA6-BB32-32B9FA513850_zpskvwnedlg.jpg~original)
I could not get them to work with the Pro-Taper Fusion bars I had on the bike (and they were bent from the big wreck in May), so I swapped over to some different bars. Hopefully I will be able to give a full ride report on Sunday.
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I took Goliath over to Lake Draper today to test out the bar ends. It was a beautiful day in Oklahoma City, 65 and light winds. The riding area ran out of permits, so it was a free ride day. The bar ends did a nice job of deadening the vibration, but were not quite as good as the Best Dual Sport Bikes dead ends. Still it was a big improvement. We rode about 22 miles today, and the new tank made a big difference in fuel range. It's nice to ride and not worry about running out of gas.
Here is Goliath before I cleaned him up:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/CED2FC3A-1F9F-45B3-B826-3536118DA97D_zpsopcmlkwb.jpg~original)
And here he is after a bath.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/8CA0A5B0-883C-480E-8F7D-4FA5D2FFD4B5_zps58cmlcei.jpg~original)
I really enjoy riding this bike. I thought a 500 would suck in the woods, but it just chugs along. I'm glad I took it today for sure.
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Howdy from a fellow Okie! Did you ever get the powder coating done? I must say your bike is one hell of a build. I think it needs a paddle tire and trip about 120 miles up to the northwest. :wink:
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Howdy from a fellow Okie! Did you ever get the powder coating done? I must say your bike is one hell of a build. I think it needs a paddle tire and trip about 120 miles up to the northwest. :wink:
Thank you the complement 69HemiGTX! I'm still waiting to powder coat my frame and get the compression release fitted by Larry. If I could just stop riding it for a little while, maybe I could get it done. :-D
I've never actually been to Little Sahara, but it looks like fun. I grew up in Southeastern Oklahoma near Fort Smith, Arkansas riding in the mountains. When I was a kid and had a four wheeler, it was too far of a drive, and I guess I just never thought about going as an adult. I figured it wouldn't be much fun riding in sand. After seeing people having fun with dirt bikes on the sand other places, I really want to go now.
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It's kind of a gloomy day in OKC today, so I figured I would try a project I have been putting off for a little bit. I would like to have a little bit longer brake lever, but I couldn't find one specifically for my bike. I was able to fit a Tusk lever to my 2004 KX250 (using the 2004 pivot bolt), but it hits the clutch cover a little bit and sticks out a tad more than I would like.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/992910D3-A633-4E6A-9273-A3742926A77F_zpssizlcug3.jpg~original)
Thankfully Tusk makes replaceable ends that you can buy for $19.99. They bolt on to the Tusk lever, but will not bolt to the stock lever without modification.
I also picked up the replacement clevis for $12.99. It says it only fits the 2005 and up, but it fits my 2003 and 2004 just fine.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/78fbc531-a1c1-404d-89a4-7895916ffe91_zpsnkk7ktvv.jpg~original)
In order to get it to fit, I got out my Dremel tool and cut a small trench in the top of the lever to fit a small ridge machined into the bottom of the Tusk lever. Nothing fancy, just ground until the bolt hole lined up.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/995C8A5E-30B0-4800-8717-016767249CF8_zpsynjp0axc.jpg~original)
I polished the lever up with some Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish, gave it a quick wax and installed it on the bike. I really like how it turned out.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/2AFA4690-B7FA-4576-A7D8-4C48D94B185F_zps5biblzhz.jpg~original)
It gives me the that little bit of extra length I was looking for as well. Here it is with the lever from my 04.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/00ADEAC0-8974-4FB4-96AF-96296870F178_zpszqmvmkuq.jpg~original)
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Looks good :-o
If you don't mind, I would like to document what you did over at KX Guru...
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Thank you Sandblaster! I actually starting thinking about it while reading your KXGuru post about putting the 450 brake lever on a KX500. Before that I had never really thought about how small and short the levers were. Please feel free to post it on KXGuru.
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Done deal :-)
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(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/4A49864F-8166-4D81-A4AB-F64BEB0D426F_zpst8s5wvqv.jpg~original)
Ever done one of those mods that you wish you would have done from the beginning? I purchased a two piece cover from Sandblaster, and man am I glad I did. Not only does it look trick, it also solved a really annoying issue with my oil fill. It uses a KX450f clutch cover, which has the filler built in. Being on the clutch cover means that it is no longer right under my pipe, so I can change my oil without removing my pipe now! Thank you Sandblaster!!
(https://m.popkey.co/20c3da/GeXgr.gif)
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(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/4A49864F-8166-4D81-A4AB-F64BEB0D426F_zpst8s5wvqv.jpg~original)
Ever done one of those mods that you wish you would have done from the beginning? I purchased a two piece cover from Sandblaster, and man am I glad I did. Not only does it look trick, it also solved a really annoying issue with my oil fill. It uses a KX450f clutch cover, which has the filler built in. Being on the clutch cover means that it is no longer right under my pipe, so I can change my oil without removing my pipe now! Thank you Sandblaster!!
(https://m.popkey.co/20c3da/GeXgr.gif)
Sweet!!!!
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Did you order one too reklessj? They are really well done pieces.
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that 2 piece is the only way to go. I might copy that longer brake lever idea if I ever get time.
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Did you order one too reklessj? They are really well done pieces.
No unfortunately life bit me in the ass (Prius motor). So I won't be getting any of this batch. But I will next time round
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Ever since the big wreck last year, I've been a little uncomfortable with Goliath. I just have a hard time not thinking about the forks turning in the triple clamps, and even though I swapped out for the 2001 models, it's still in the back of my head. I have been looking for a set of aftermarket triple clamps with a little more clamping surface, but no one made them for anything earlier than 2002. I always remember Foxx's advice about watching eBay, and the other day it paid off. I saw an ad for a set of upper clamps for a 2001. They were gold, but at least they were the correct model year. In the ad it gave a phone number to call if you had questions, so I gave them a call to see if they had any other clamps for sale. In turns out the company selling them was Topar Racing, which makes the case saver for the KX 500 that several guys have on their bikes. I spoke with Henry, and he hooked me up with a set of triple clamps and handle bar mounts for $236 plus shipping. They are coated with a substance that looks like anodizing, but is more fade resistant. It's called Endurocoat, and was originally developed for Navy Seals. I talked to him on Wednesday, and he shipped them out to me on Thursday. I got them in today, and can't wait to get them mounted. They are really nice for the price, and very beefy.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/1BE8400C-C130-4BCD-A0C0-16505CF00B75_zpsnnnnkm8h.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/36F0BDD9-BF86-44A9-84B8-E6E65D6613A3_zpsmnfbbyfl.jpg~original)
Here is a link to their site if you are interested. Ask for Henry.
http://www.toparracing.com/ (http://www.toparracing.com/)
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Ever since the big wreck last year, I've been a little uncomfortable with Goliath. I just have a hard time not thinking about the forks turning in the triple clamps, and even though I swapped out for the 2001 models, it's still in the back of my head. I have been looking for a set of aftermarket triple clamps with a little more clamping surface, but no one made them for anything earlier than 2002. I always remember Foxx's advice about watching eBay, and the other day it paid off. I saw an ad for a set of upper clamps for a 2001. They were gold, but at least they were the correct model year. In the ad it gave a phone number to call if you had questions, so I gave them a call to see if they had any other clamps for sale. In turns out the company selling them was Topar Racing, which makes the case saver for the KX 500 that several guys have on their bikes. I spoke with Henry, and he hooked me up with a set of triple clamps and handle bar mounts for $236 plus shipping. They are coated with a substance that looks like anodizing, but is more fade resistant. It's called Endurocoat, and was originally developed for Navy Seals. I talked to him on Wednesday, and he shipped them out to me on Thursday. I got them in today, and can't wait to get them mounted. They are really nice for the price, and very beefy.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/1BE8400C-C130-4BCD-A0C0-16505CF00B75_zpsnnnnkm8h.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/36F0BDD9-BF86-44A9-84B8-E6E65D6613A3_zpsmnfbbyfl.jpg~original)
Here is a link to their site if you are interested. Ask for Henry.
http://www.toparracing.com/ (http://www.toparracing.com/)
Pro Circuit did a run of clamps for the 04 KX250/125 and they were VERY proud of them. :-o I like the looks of these and a reasonable price. Ive been looking for a long time. Good Find Umberto!! Do you happen to know what the offset is on these?
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These are stock offset. I didn't ask about other offsets, but I'm sure they make them. Henry is a super nice guy, I would just call him and ask.
I'm going to mount them this week sometime, so I should have a report on how well they fit. I'll keep you posted.
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I was able to get the stem pressed out of another set of 2003 clamps I have and into the new billet clamps. Big thank you to Danger for allowing me to use his 12 ton shop press. I can say that these clamps are very nice and well made. I did have to chase the threads where the coating got in (fender mounts, front plate mount), but they really get a bite on the forks. Here's a pick of them mounted; I'll try to get a few more whole bike pics later today.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/6318CC58-F306-42FC-A842-7058832530FA_zpsfyxqazwe.jpg~original)
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More pics:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/60636BD5-E64D-4636-A9F9-0B474AB2477A_zps8g1jmlch.jpg~original)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/2AC48008-1A4A-4E82-9AC3-020ECBBCA579_zpsvhxtp148.jpg~original)
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Your bike is looking good! Mine should be back together by next weekend. Just in time for our WV vaca!
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Thank you zz3gmc. I'll bet there are some fun places to ride in WV. Take some pics if you can.
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I got a chance to ride the bike today with the new triple clamps installed. Danger and I went riding for a little while, and I was really pleased with the way the bike rode and handled. My main concern coming in was that the solid handlebar mounts would transfer too much vibration, but they actually seemed to have less vibration.
All in all, I would highly recommend the Topar clamps, they are well worth the money.
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Pushed out the stem. The dog is checking umberto's hotwheel.
Install in the new clamp.
A little trail maintenance after we rode.
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A little trail maintenance after we rode.
Man, you got a lot done after I left! There were only two piles when I was there. :-o
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Yes, 7 burn piles, I only drag limbs/logs or rake 10 feet from the fire.
Piles are 20 feet apart, I did 7 piles. I weedeated the loop north of
the west end of the half pipe. There is a big pile of dirt up there, very steep.
I'll let you have the honor of being the first to ride over, since you have the
better triple clamps...
First two pic's are 3 weeks ago, last was one week ago.
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These are stock offset. I didn't ask about other offsets, but I'm sure they make them. Henry is a super nice guy, I would just call him and ask.
I'm going to mount them this week sometime, so I should have a report on how well they fit. I'll keep you posted.
I spoke with Henry at Topar Racing today, and he indicated that while they stock a lot of clamps for even vintage bikes, they are almost all stock offset. They can do different offsets, but it they would be custom order and more expensive.
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Look what I got in this week:
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/5C8455CB-AAE2-4BE5-AD9B-8EBAF41D7FC4_zpsq4xucakv.jpg~original)
I'm waiting on my dad to mill out a clutch cover spacer for me, and I'll get it installed. I have to say EFM is excellent to work with, and turned around my clutch really quickly. I'm pretty excited to get it installed. I'll keep you posted.
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Haven't sent my clutch to them yet. waiting for that ride report. If its good I may need to hurry up and get mine done.
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Make sure you have your two piece clutch cover and 1/2" cover spacer sorted out before you send it to them. My bike is basically a great big towel holder right now until I get my spacer. :-D
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I had mine fabricated to sandblasters specs just for an auto clutch from the start!
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Good planning. I wasn't going to do an auto clutch originally, until I rode at Danger's place and had to kick start my bike 500 times. I also wasn't aware that you could use your clutch lever with a KX500 EFM clutch. I'm glad you guys started talking about it, because I love the auto clutch in my 250.
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I finally got my spacer back from my buddy. He was swamped at work, so it took him a lot longer than he thought. I should have it tomorrow, so I can get my clutch on this weekend. I'll keep you posted.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/umberto_32/EA4E4306-0EEC-45C8-9E69-1D672963D96C_zpscp5ou4or.jpg~original)
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Man, it's been a long summer. Understaffed at work, Lunchbox qualified for summer swimming sectionals in Lincoln, Nebraska (proud papa moment), and a quick family vacation. Not much time in there for projects. Anyway, I used my Mexican drug smuggler tunnel at work to finally escape and get Goliath back together. I misunderstood the EFM clutch guy and actually had it installed correctly but I thought I was missing a washer. Nope, I just wanted to pull it apart one more time I guess. :-D I got the clutch installed, and ran into an issue with the brake lever hitting the clutch cover. I made a spacer for it, re-engineered the pivot, tweaked the clevis, and got that installed as well. It was time for a ride around the block!
It takes a little adjusting of the lever, but once I got it right the clutch made a HUGE difference in the ride ability. It will sit and idle in gear all day long (not recommended by the way), and the clutch pull is beyond light (1/2 a finger). I only got to ride it around my neighborhood, but it feels like it hooks up at pretty low rpm. I am beyond pleased with the clutch. I just wish I would have done it sooner.
I'll post some pictures of the brake pivot later in case anyone wants to install an EFM on their bike.
I'm working on getting all my picture links fixed as well. Unfortunately I have about 400 links to go through. :-o
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Hey Umberto! Im building another 04 250/500 this time with a 87 engine. I picked up a blown up 04 250 this summer with plans to build another 300 for the wife but that changed when we stumbled upon a nice 87 500 engine at a vintage bike swap meet for $150! The wife is getting her 500 finally!
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Hey Umberto! Im building another 04 250/500 this time with a 87 engine. I picked up a blown up 04 250 this summer with plans to build another 300 for the wife but that changed when we stumbled upon a nice 87 500 engine at a vintage bike swap meet for $150! The wife is getting her 500 finally!
Wow, that was a steal! I can’t wait to see your progress. What do you have planned for the build?
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Very similar build to my bike just tailored to her. Whatever we learned building and improving mine over the years will be applied to hers. A few things will be improved upon. The plan is to make it as smooth as mine if not smoother if possible. She wants to race it next season at a few select enduros and a extreme enduro in PA.
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I fixed all the links in this thread using the trick Larry posted. Photobucket pic links can be fixed by adding ~original between .jpg and the [\img] in the link to the pic. It fixed most of the pictures, I’ll try to get back to the others as soon as I can.
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I fully plan on tearing Goliath down at some point to have Larry install a compression release, and so I can have the frame powder coated. Right now my 250 is in a million pieces as I convert it to a 2017 KX250F, so Goliath is my primary ride. I bought some different suspension for my aluminum framed bike (more on that later), so my Stillwell Performance suspension was just sitting and collecting dust. I decided to swap it on to Goliath, and let my son have the KYB kit suspension I had installed because the SP stuff works just a little better. I installed the forks, but wasn't able to use the shock because of the difference in length between the 04-07 bikes and the 03. I just stayed with the KYB shock for now. Anyway, I am pleased with the look and how well the two ends work together.
I also picked up one of the TSR exhaust valve covers. They are really well made pieces, and look way better than the ratty plastic stock pieces.
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I went riding yesterday with my cousin. The riding area was really soupy, and we were in and out of the trees all day. I'll say it again: If you are riding your KX500 in tight terrain, the EFM clutch is worth its weight in gold. I never stalled, and the clutch softened the hit just enough that I could keep the bike in a lower gear. I felt like I was riding my 250, minus the fuel economy of course. :-D
The fork swap worked out better than I could have imagined. I'm not sure why, but they seem to be even more plush on the big bike.
Anyway, here's a picture of all the mud I brought back with me. It took us 2 hours to clean up the bikes. :-o
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I worked all day, where did you go?
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I figured you were still working. How's the job coming?
We were going to ride on some land our other cousin owns, but he bailed at the last minute so we ended at Draper. It was a pretty much under water. We rode a bit of the red, black (we turned right after the tires), green, and the grass track. We rode 23 miles, and neither one of us can move today. :-D
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We finished around 1 yesterday. Off today. Riding behind the shop this afternoon.
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Sounds like fun. The weather couldn't be better right now.
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With my aluminum conversion done and my kids off at college leaving me with a lot of time, I am going to finally finish the last few items on Goliath. Step one was to get one of Larry's decompression levers for the head. I always had an issue with having the bike down long enough to get the head modified, but I could not find an 88 head. I check eBay every few days looking for one, and for almost three years I have had no luck. Yesterday I finally found one in excellent condition. As I looked at it I realized the ad looked familiar, and sure enough it was one of Sandblaster's ads. We swung a deal, and it should be on its way to Larry next week.
I am also going to be cleaning up the welds on the frame where necessary, and will be sending it off to powder coat. I going to go with a bright silver, like the 2007 two strokes. If anyone knows of a good powder coater, let me know. I only have one close to me, and I think he is a bit high on the price.
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My last frame cost me 225 to have it stripped and coated in Kiwi Green.
How much is your guy asking?
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My last frame cost me 225 to have it stripped and coated in Kiwi Green.
How much is your guy asking?
He was over $300, but I guess once I ship it to a cheaper place and back here it will cost me more than $300 anyway.
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I didn't realize that you had installed the EFM. Looks like you're happy with it. You did have to add a spacer in the clutch cover? I want to order one. Any thing else I should know first?
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I didn't realize that you had installed the EFM. Looks like you're happy with it. You did have to add a spacer in the clutch cover? I want to order one. Any thing else I should know first?
I love it. It makes the clutch pull super light (if you need to use the clutch at all), and I think it's a must for riding in the trees or tight technical trails. I did have to add a spacer, but you can skip that if you just leave an extra 1/2" in your cover when you convert it to a two piece. I bought an already converted cover from Sandblaster before I decided to go with the EFM, and had my buddy make a spacer, but Sandblaster also sells just the rings. The guy at EFM is really nice, and got my clutch done really quickly. It's a little pricey, but unlike a Rekluse you don't have to eventually replace it. You just replace the clutch pack and your good.
All in all, I would say it's probably tied for my favorite modification with the suspension.
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My last frame cost me 225 to have it stripped and coated in Kiwi Green.
How much is your guy asking?
He was over $300, but I guess once I ship it to a cheaper place and back here it will cost me more than $300 anyway.
Ouch, I thought everything in the USA was cheaper than the UK other than PPV boxing, I have been quoted £95 GBP for a 250 frame to be done in Kiwi green which is around $122 USD and the reviews for them are all good!!
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My last frame cost me 225 to have it stripped and coated in Kiwi Green.
How much is your guy asking?
He was over $300, but I guess once I ship it to a cheaper place and back here it will cost me more than $300 anyway.
Ouch, I thought everything in the USA was cheaper than the UK other than PPV boxing, I have been quoted £95 GBP for a 250 frame to be done in Kiwi green which is around $122 USD and the reviews for them are all good!!
Man, that is cheap! I wish I could find someone that cheap here.
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Look what I got from the UPS man on Friday.
Larry got my compression release added to the spare head I bought from Sandblaster. His work is as good as advertised; this dude looks factory.
(https://i.imgur.com/MxDRX2i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dDWSmLW.jpg)
Unfortunately it looks like I won't be able to get this dude on for a while. I just had back surgery, and can't lift any weight or ride a dirt bike for 12 weeks. Getting old sucks a lot. Oh well, I also can't go to work for a while either. It's not all bad. :-D
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I had a question on how I spaced out my rear brake lever to fit the 1/2” clutch cover spacer for my EFM auto clutch. I made two spacers from 1/4” aluminum, by using a hole saw to cut the aluminum and removing the piece caught in the middle. I had to belt sand them smooth, and enlarge the center hole, but they make excellent spacers and are perfectly round. Plus you can vary the size of the spacer by picking a different starting hole saw size. Of course the brake lever pivot bolt was too short, so I just cut off the threads and drilled a hole through the center. This weakens the part that holds the lever on the pivot, so I just removed it and replaced it with a stainless steel fender washer. I used a stainless metric button head bolt to mount the lever. Once I had the lever spaced out, I carefully bent the clevis open more so the it would go over the end of the brake lever.
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I’m still a little limited on what I can do post surgery, so I have been avoiding the garage. Today I wandered out there because I was bored, and started looking at Goliath. I had the thought that maybe I could install the decompression head Larry made for me if I did some trimming. I moved my coil to the side of the frame, but I never removed the coil brackets. I started measuring, and realized if I cut them off I could get the head off. A couple of passes with the reciprocating saw, and I had the old head off. I ran in to an issue putting the new head on though. Both the locating pins were frozen in the old head, and of course I only had one new one. Oh well. It’s not like I’m going riding for a while anyway. :-D
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I recently purchased a kit from TX Race in Spain to put 2017 to 2019 KX250F plastic on your 03-07 (or 08 overseas) KX, and needed a donor bike. I guess you can probably guess which bike I decided to update. Goliath got stripped down and I got started on the install.
The kit itself comes with a nice set of instructions (get a magnifying glass for the details), and an extensive group of brackets, bolts, washers, nuts, an airbox extender, and a seat (in addition to a set of plastic custom tailored to this kit). Some of the bracket pieces are plastic, while some of them are aluminum. They use rivnuts and the clamp on nuts in a couple of places, as well as studs where applicable. Overall the quality of the kit is very good.
I attached pictures of the instructions and all the parts laid out.
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Installation is pretty straightforward. I did have an issue with one of my brackets that was reversed, but it was easy to modify with another rivnut and a little bit of grinding. I attached a picture of some of the brackets installed. The airbox plastic piece is pretty cool, and does a nice job of covering the gap between the new fender and the old one. I was initially concerned about the airbox holes from the 2003 side panels being open, but the new side panels and brackets cover them really nicely.
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I struggled with the plastic a little bit, but I think the Clarke oversized tank is to blame. Once I got them on the bike, I think all the problems can be fixed with a little sanding. Anyway, here is a picture of where I stopped for the day.
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Besides the plastic adjustments around the gas tank, I will need to get the seat shortened a little bit. It's about 3/4" too long, but I once again attribute this to the Clarke tank. I think if you had the stock tank, or an IMS tank, you would be fine. All in all I am very pleased with this kit. For the price, it is very well engineered.
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I got my plastic fitting really well, and updated my brackets to fit around the tank. This kit really updates the ergonomics. I’m really pleased with the purchase.
The last step is to blow it apart to powder coat the frame. I’m going to start that tomorrow.
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Well, I finally did it. I broke Goliath down for the finishing touches. I'm taking the frame, frame guards, and pipe mount to the powder coater tomorrow. I'm excited to see how it comes out once it's all together with the new plastics and graphics.
I posted a couple of pictures of the carnage. It's so weird seeing a pile of parts where my bike used to be. :-o
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maybe i missed it but what color? or is it a suprise?
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No suspense. :-D. I went with silver and flat black on the frame guards.
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The only small issue I have with the plastic conversion kit is that it leaves the airbox a little more open than I would like. It may not ever be a problem, but I just don't want to take chances with as much mud and sand as we ride in. I fabricated some plates from aluminum to fill the sides of the box so that it is better covered. I did notch it for the openings in the side plates, so the airflow should be good. I used a rivnut to hold them in place, and painted them in semi gloss black. They are removable if I ever want to remove the plastic conversion. Overall I am pleased with the results, but I ordered some ABS plastic from the devil (Amazon) so I may redo them in plastic down the road.
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Here it is after I painted it. The scratch is covered by the side panels, so I'm not going to worry about it. That's what I keep telling myself. :-D
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Got my frame and other parts back from the powder coater yesterday. Ready to start final assembly.
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We’re waiting on big print job at work, so it was a little slow today. I was able to sneak out and get a little work done. I got the motor in, the forks on, the wheels installed, the new IMS pegs installed, the radiators installed, and the wiring and electronics installed. I’m pretty close to done, with just a few items to button up. One of the slow downs is the rear brake carrier. I wanted to use a TM Designworks rear hub carrier for a 2009 and up KXF, and I thought from my experience with my AF conversion that it would bolt right up. Unfortunately the calipers are slightly different, so I have to use the KXF caliper and brake line. I bought a used one on eBay, so I’ll be waiting to finish until it arrives.
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I made some more progress today. It’s mostly done, I just need to install the back brake and chain. I switched to an 09 rear brake caliper so I could use a TM Designworks rear brake guard and carrier. The 03 caliper hits on the swing arm due to a change in where the banjo bolt attaches. Here is a picture of where I stopped.
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she's a beauty, let the good times roll! :-D
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Yep... that bike looks sweet...
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Thank you! I'm going to have some pictures made, and then it's back to the dirt. I've been cleaning on it for two solid weeks, so it may be hard to get it dirty at first. :-D
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I got some more done today. I added the graphics, chain, case guard, and fixed a broken CDI mount. All I lack now is the brake caliper and line, airbox mud guard, and frame tape. The USPS may or may not have them close by. Their tracking is garbage.
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I had the CDI mounted on the side of the frame because it wouldn’t mount behind the number plate without a fork hitting it when I turned. The mounting bracket cracked off, so I needed to find a better way to mount it. It really cleans up the wiring to put it behind the number plate, so I bent up a steel bracket, welded it to the stock mount (that I miraculously kept), lined it with rubber matting, and zip tied it in. I think it will be way more secure and the wiring is a lot cleaner.
One other change I made was to run the wiring forward and up the clutch cable, instead of back and up the frame rail. I think it looks a lot better, and I don’t have to put zip ties on the frame.
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A couple more finishing touches tonight before I get some better pictures made on Friday. I added the frame tape I found on eBay, the rear mud guard, and the 2009 KX250F rear caliper. I was able to use the 2003 brake line with the KXF caliper without any trouble. Here are a couple of pictures I took.
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I decided to get some pictures made of Goliath. I was able to get a different photographer, but at the same studio. This guy had a lot of great ideas for different angles and lighting. I’ve seen a few preliminary images, and they were really nice even before editing. I took a few pictures of the setup; I’ll post the final results when he sends them over.
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I’m really excited about the pictures with this background. They looked great on the viewfinder of the camera.
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Man those pics need to get framed n put on the mantle right next to the family photo😂🤣🤣😂😂
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Man those pics need to get framed n put on the mantle right next to the family photo😂🤣🤣😂😂
That’s a great idea! I could swap it for that picture of my in-laws. :-D😂
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Here’s a cropped and lightened shot of the gray background. The professional pictures will have better lighting and shading, but it gives you an idea of what it will look like.
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It amazes me the quality of builds that have come through this site.
It seems that every year we move the bar a little higher.
That's cool 8-)
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It amazes me the quality of builds that have come through this site.
It seems that every year we move the bar a little higher.
That's cool 8-)
Thank you Sandblaster! I would have never even attempted to build this bike without the advice and technical assistance I got from you and other members on this site. I love this place!
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She turned out bitchin Umberto!!! Yeah all the builds are making me ashamed of my trusty steed. That's all right I love her just the way she is!!
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She turned out bitchin Umberto!!! Yeah all the builds are making me ashamed of my trusty steed. That's all right I love her just the way she is!!
Thank you reklessj! Your bike is perfect: it’s big, green, angry, and two stroke!
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She turned out bitchin Umberto!!! Yeah all the builds are making me ashamed of my trusty steed. That's all right I love her just the way she is!!
Sometime when you're near it, can you please snap me a picture or two of your Tecate 4. I had one back in the day, and I really regret selling it.
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I got a few of the proofs back, and the gray background picture is absolutely stunning. I need to hold off posting it for a bit, but it will be worth it.
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:mrgreen:
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She turned out bitchin Umberto!!! Yeah all the builds are making me ashamed of my trusty steed. That's all right I love her just the way she is!!
Sometime when you're near it, can you please snap me a picture or two of your Tecate 4. I had one back in the day, and I really regret selling it.
Will do, thought I had some on my phone but guess not!! Not sure when I'm goin back, probably when the snow is gone n got put the sleds up. Lol then I'll have to go get my K5 to get my fix. She needs some work but hope to do a full restore on her for the man cave and the occasional rip. Still has the stock tires on her. Got it from original owner who dug it out the back of the garage when I got there. Old army bag on it had an old bell helmet rotten goggles n full leather axo boots
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She turned out bitchin Umberto!!! Yeah all the builds are making me ashamed of my trusty steed. That's all right I love her just the way she is!!
Sometime when you're near it, can you please snap me a picture or two of your Tecate 4. I had one back in the day, and I really regret selling it.
Will do, thought I had some on my phone but guess not!! Not sure when I'm goin back, probably when the snow is gone n got put the sleds up. Lol then I'll have to go get my K5 to get my fix. She needs some work but hope to do a full restore on her for the man cave and the occasional rip. Still has the stock tires on her. Got it from original owner who dug it out the back of the garage when I got there. Old army bag on it had an old bell helmet rotten goggles n full leather axo boots
found a couple crappy pics. Will get a some better ones when I get back
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She turned out bitchin Umberto!!! Yeah all the builds are making me ashamed of my trusty steed. That's all right I love her just the way she is!!
Sometime when you're near it, can you please snap me a picture or two of your Tecate 4. I had one back in the day, and I really regret selling it.
Will do, thought I had some on my phone but guess not!! Not sure when I'm goin back, probably when the snow is gone n got put the sleds up. Lol then I'll have to go get my K5 to get my fix. She needs some work but hope to do a full restore on her for the man cave and the occasional rip. Still has the stock tires on her. Got it from original owner who dug it out the back of the garage when I got there. Old army bag on it had an old bell helmet rotten goggles n full leather axo boots
found a couple crappy pics. Will get a some better ones when I get back
Dang it, two quads I wish I had in one picture. :-D
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All I need is a trx250r, and my quad collection will be complete. They really dont get ridden much unless I'm teaching somebody to ride or I get a wild hair up my ass not really into quads. He who dies with most toys win!! 😂🤣😂🤣 I'm up to 10 runners and about 5 projects in the wings waiting for 💰 💰 💰
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All I need is a trx250r, and my quad collection will be complete. They really dont get ridden much unless I'm teaching somebody to ride or I get a wild hair up my ass not really into quads. He who dies with most toys win!! 😂🤣😂🤣 I'm up to 10 runners and about 5 projects in the wings waiting for 💰 💰 💰
And Mrs. Umberto whines about my six dirt bikes (two are for sale). :-D
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sufficient number of motorcycles/toys is current total + 1 :-D
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Look what popped up on Motocross Action’s Instagram story this morning.
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Ohhhhh... Aaaahhhhhhh..... 8-)
It's amazing how much attention this group has been given by various magazines..
I wonder what's next :wink:
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They featured the bike itself in a separate post later.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BwmVbZEpHQM/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1evmr7xonj4dn (https://www.instagram.com/p/BwmVbZEpHQM/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1evmr7xonj4dn)
It’s my favorite shot from the shoot.
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Ohhhhh... Aaaahhhhhhh..... 8-)
It's amazing how much attention this group has been given by various magazines..
I wonder what's next :wink:
Oh I’m sure you KX Guru guys have something cooking. :-D
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MXA added me to the two stroke Tuesday spotlight on their website. It's been a good day for Goliath.
https://motocrossactionmag.com/two-stroke-tuesday-1988-kx500-engine-shoed-into-kx250-chassis/ (https://motocrossactionmag.com/two-stroke-tuesday-1988-kx500-engine-shoed-into-kx250-chassis/)
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Wow, you're the most famous member on here. What next TV series....movies?
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My bike is famous, I’m just the guy who pushes it around. :-D
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d**n I went riding with a fancy bike that made it to the big times!
Steve
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So, what's next?
You know you can't just stop right there....
And each build has to be better than the last... Ugh... :|
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I am hoping I can take a break after this one. Chasing this level of build is exhausting, stressful, and kind of expensive. I'm happy to have the two bikes I have, but I think the next build will be a simpler one. :-D
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I can remember way back, when you were into Honda's. That first build was a tough one....
The best part about your new builds, you know which side goes down.....
:-D
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My first attempt at a Kawasaki wasn't much better... :-D
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Wow what a sick build! Kudos to you! The question is now that its so pretty can you still ride it? :-D
Either way its a work of art. Nice job
Also this gives me inspiration to one day fit up the old Cr500(Shh, I secretly love Hondas also) into a better frame. I suppose I should learn how to weld first, and I need to graduate college(1 more year)!
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Wow what a sick build! Kudos to you! The question is now that its so pretty can you still ride it? :-D
Either way its a work of art. Nice job
Also this gives me inspiration to one day fit up the old Cr500(Shh, I secretly love Hondas also) into a better frame. I suppose I should learn how to weld first, and I need to graduate college(1 more year)!
Thank you Gitta! I grew up around Hot Rods, and my father is pretty meticulous, so I have a hard time leaving stuff un-customized. :-D I have yet to get it dirty, as I'm having a little issue with the fuel system I need to fix. The hard part about taking one all apart is getting it all back together as you had it. That, and the weather in Oklahoma has been biblically rainy.
Hang on to that CR 500. All the big two strokes are getting harder and harder to find in good shape. The only thing about putting CR 500s in newer frames is that almost all the newer style CR frames are aluminum, which takes a lot more skill to weld and requires a TIG welder. You might get everything put together like you like it, and then have a professional weld it up for you. That's what I did with my other bike. Also, there is no judgement here. We all like big two strokes, no matter who made them. Just don't start another "which one is better" war. :-D
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I finally got around to putting gas in Goliath and seeing if it would start after a long winter's (and spring's) nap. It started, but it was smoking really badly and barely running. I figured the gas had gone bad, so I drained the tank. I decided to change the plug, and clean the carb as well. This proved to be an adventure that I figured I would share with you guys to make sure it doesn't bite anyone else. When I took off the float bowl to drain it, the floats were sitting in the float bowl unattached. :-o I didn't see how they came out, and there was a groove in the float bowl, so I assumed that they rode in that groove, and there were pins in the carb body to keep them from floating away. I tried this configuration, and needless to say it didn't work. I then tried to look at videos of the carb, or the parts fiche, but they also didn't really help. Finally I decided to turn the carb over on my workbench, and it finally hit me. There are holes in the floats, and they ride up and down on the pins that I though located them in the notches (see pictures below). Once I got them on the pins, everything was happy again and I was able to fire the bike up without issue. Live and learn. :-D
(https://i.imgur.com/BTrk8c3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pMLjWSy.jpg)
Also, I later learned that the billet fuel bowls have more capacity (and are deeper), so they flip those pins from being in the float bowl to the carb body. This means the floats fall out when you take off the bowl.
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Here's a little video I made of the first time she fired up after the carb was fixed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIPjX4vllXc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIPjX4vllXc)
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sounds just right!
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Thank you! KX500s sounds like a bunch of angels singing to me. :-D