KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: ecdeyzel on March 16, 2015, 12:15:53 AM
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Hi fellow KXers.
I am continuing my introduction thread ( http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,14146.0.html ) here where I will map out my progress in cheering up my very sad and abused KX250 I recently bought.
So I've had some time to start working on my bike. My first priority was to get the carb out to see what condition it's in and try my best to get it as close to a new carb as I could.
Here is the carb one the bike before I took it off.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150313_180518_zpsdj7jezxt.jpg)
Two things I noticed was the jet needle was bent. This can't be right...right?
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150314_115402_zpsiirkhest.jpg)
The second issue was that the pilot air screw did not have the o ring at the end. I will need to see if I can get one from my local Kawi dealer.
Here are some more pics...
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150314_132709_zpsr1rgivdo.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150314_132622_zpslsfcwtva.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150314_132644_zpsfq2m0fvq.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150314_132628_zps3icytxn2.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150314_132633_zpsdljelosy.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150314_134827_zpsh9zvpjvw.jpg)
Here is a before and after of the float bowl. Yuck.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150314_115309_zpswpxrwmkp.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150314_135737_zpsle5iyngd.jpg)
And here is the carb put back together. I am waiting for the gasket for float bowl and the clamp for airbox to carb that I have ordered from Kawi. I got some rubber tubing for the air valves and overflows. Do you guys think it will last? It's very flexible, but it seems like it could work. It's tubing used for fish tanks. Keep in mind I am going budget, but if it really is wrong to use I will try and get the real thing. I just thought they are for overflow and air, if it was for fuel line from tank, it's a different story and will get the real deal.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150315_113218_zpsfe2hhxxn.jpg)
Let me know what you guys think.
Ed
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looks much better!
you can throw that needle right in the trash....don't mess around with bent ones...a new OEM needle will run you either side of $25 U.S dollars.
as for the vent hoses, do you have any extra pieces that you could soak in some gas as an experiment, to see if it will be ok?
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Hey Fox! I will add a needle to the order list for the Kawi dealer.
Yea, I have some tubing left. Good idea, I will leave a piece soaked in some petrol for a day or two to see how it goes, thanks!
Ed
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For the vent tubes you can find some small fuel line at your local hardware store for lawn mowers that works and it is dirt cheap. I got some at home depot it was like $4-$5 for 25 feet of it.
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Awesome, thanks for the tip Ims. I will go ask around at some of the hardware stores around here.
Ed
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Hey Fox! I will add a needle to the order list for the Kawi dealer.
just write down the numbers from that bent needle, to be sure you get the same one...providing it's still available through Kawie.
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For the vent tubes you can find some small fuel line at your local hardware store for lawn mowers that works and it is dirt cheap. I got some at home depot it was like $4-$5 for 25 feet of it.
Hey Ims, I just ran across the road from my work, there is an auto shop and they had tubing. Bought 5 meters for 15 rand. So cheap and much better that the rubber tubing I got.
Thanks for the hint.
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For the vent tubes you can find some small fuel line at your local hardware store for lawn mowers that works and it is dirt cheap. I got some at home depot it was like $4-$5 for 25 feet of it.
Hey Ims, I just ran across the road from my work, there is an auto shop and they had tubing. Bought 5 meters for 15 rand. So cheap and much better that the rubber tubing I got.
Thanks for the hint.
Been budget racing as long as I can remember, now if only I could be as fast as I am cheap :lol:
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Hey Fox! I will add a needle to the order list for the Kawi dealer.
just write down the numbers from that bent needle, to be sure you get the same one...providing it's still available through Kawie.
Hey Fox, the parts guy at Kawi asked me for the number, so will send it to him. Glad I am dealing with a guy that is on the ball over there. Thanks for the tip.
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For the vent tubes you can find some small fuel line at your local hardware store for lawn mowers that works and it is dirt cheap. I got some at home depot it was like $4-$5 for 25 feet of it.
Hey Ims, I just ran across the road from my work, there is an auto shop and they had tubing. Bought 5 meters for 15 rand. So cheap and much better that the rubber tubing I got.
Thanks for the hint.
Been budget racing as long as I can remember, now if only I could be as fast as I am cheap :lol:
:-D HAHAHA! Classic! :-D
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Here is a pic of the chain that came off the bike over the weekend. It doesn't even have o/x-rings anymore. :-o Ashes to ashes, rust to rust.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150317_075859_zps1jywtidd.jpg)
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Hey Fox, the parts guy at Kawi asked me for the number, so will send it to him. Glad I am dealing with a guy that is on the ball over there. Thanks for the tip.
the stock OEM needle for the '99 U.S.A. bikes is N3YK...there is a chance it could be different on a non U.S. bike, I've seen it before....and there is a chance that bent needle you have, is not the original one. Have your Kawie guy look up what the stock needle was for your bike, and if it matches the bent one you have, then no worries. Otherwise, you'll want him to get you the closest to the stock one he can get.
Mine was way too rich, and I ended up going 4 needles leaner, to an N3WJ.
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Hey Fox, the parts guy at Kawi asked me for the number, so will send it to him. Glad I am dealing with a guy that is on the ball over there. Thanks for the tip.
the stock OEM needle for the '99 U.S.A. bikes is N3YK...there is a chance it could be different on a non U.S. bike, I've seen it before....and there is a chance that bent needle you have, is not the original one. Have your Kawie guy look up what the stock needle was for your bike, and if it matches the bent one you have, then no worries. Otherwise, you'll want him to get you the closest to the stock one he can get.
Mine was way too rich, and I ended up going 4 needles leaner, to an N3WJ.
Yea, mine is N3YK.SO is that stock?
I wanted to ask about this, so I am glad you brought it up. Currently on the bike, I have a Pro Circuit Platinum header pipe with a DEP silencer. Do you think that needle will be fine for that set-up? Wanted to get the jetting right for the set-up so that I don't have the rich or lean issue. I am not too clued up with that aspect of the carb. I have heard some guys can hear when it needs to be turned. That sort of thing is out of my knowledge league at the moment. :?
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for now, I would go with the stock needle N3YK providing your Kawie guy can get it, to be on the "safe" side...then once you get it running and able to ride it, then you can concentrate on getting it jetted more precisely.
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Okey cool. I am waiting to hear back from him regarding the needle. Hopefully he can organise it. He needs to get the airbox hose clamp from Japan, so the needle could possibly come with the clamp.
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I have heard some guys can hear when it needs to be turned. That sort of thing is out of my knowledge league at the moment. :?
Jetting has always been my favorite/most fun thing about dirt bikes, I spend a lot of time getting mine as close to the line of being too lean, and just right all the time.
And yes, you can tell by the way a motor sounds, and also by the "feel"...i.e...sluggish....you can also tell if a motor is running excessively rich by the amount of black spooge at the end of your silencer and the silencer/pipe connections....also by how hot it's running...hotter typically equals too lean.
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I may have that needle if you can't get it.
I'll take a look
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I have heard some guys can hear when it needs to be turned. That sort of thing is out of my knowledge league at the moment. :?
Jetting has always been my favorite/most fun thing about dirt bikes, I spend a lot of time getting mine as close to the line of being too lean, and just right all the time.
And yes, you can tell by the way a motor sounds, and also by the "feel"...i.e...sluggish....you can also tell if a motor is running excessively rich by the amount of black spooge at the end of your silencer and the silencer/pipe connections....also by how hot it's running...hotter typically equals too lean.
I have read up a bit about spooge and so on. It's going to be a fun experiment to get the bike running beautifully when I finally get her running. Still quite a long way from that. Lots of cleaning to do and money to spend. :lol:
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I may have that needle if you can't get it.
I'll take a look
Hi Sandblaster! Awesome, thanks. I will let you know as soon as I hear from the dealer.
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I have heard some guys can hear when it needs to be turned. That sort of thing is out of my knowledge league at the moment. :?
Jetting has always been my favorite/most fun thing about dirt bikes, I spend a lot of time getting mine as close to the line of being too lean, and just right all the time.
And yes, you can tell by the way a motor sounds, and also by the "feel"...i.e...sluggish....you can also tell if a motor is running excessively rich by the amount of black spooge at the end of your silencer and the silencer/pipe connections....also by how hot it's running...hotter typically equals too lean.
Great point. My bike is really sluggish off the bottom end, like bogging sluggish. No spooge at all though. I'm running the PWK 36 not the short body version with TPS & Powerjet though. How can I fix this with my jetting? I'm running the Pro Circuit platinum pipe and r-304 shorty silencer.
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I may have that needle if you can't get it.
I'll take a look
Hi Sandblaster. I might have to take you up on that needle offer. Kawi has discontinued the needle and is no longer available. I also asked my bike shop if they can get and they said no.
Do you have the needle for me?
Ed
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I'll take a look tomorrow and see what I can find.
N3YK?
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I'll take a look tomorrow and see what I can find.
N3YK?
That's the one, thanks Sandblaster. :-)
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Hey guys, here's an update...
After breaking a screw driver and small hammer, I decided to get the (semi) right, but cheap tools and get a good hammer and punch. I got the bearings out! The front was surprisingly difficult. I still have to properly clean the front hub and rim like I did the rear.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150326_174957_zpsdadloecy.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150326_175002_zpsowlwngxh.jpg)
Drained tha apple sauce coolant.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150326_175028_zpsf3n8shh2.jpg)
Drained the tar-like transmission fluid.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150326_180509_zpsd0qhfga5.jpg)
Removed the header for reviving.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150326_180517_zpsb3o1zds6.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150326_175233_zpsvfsspun1.jpg)
I upped my game with a magnetic bowl.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150326_180338_zpsnjcfqtdu.jpg)
Go the the triple clamps off, but the bar mount are not moving at all. Seems like they are stuck in there good.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150327_125740_zpskkcdbbbh.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150327_125742_zpsxtq1mkbh.jpg)
The steering stem bearings look salvageable. They turned very smooth when they where on the bike. Just needs a clean and good regrease.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150327_130146_zps0gaxw3ni.jpg)
Whats left.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150327_125804_zpsbzyok5td.jpg)
Can anyone tell me what Kawasaki model this rear fender comes off? It says made in Italy at bottom, so maybe an Acerbis. But I think it is the wrong rear fender for the bike as it didn't look right when it was on the bike. It seemed too far back.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150327_125414_zpsbcl3ooto.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150309_073158_zpssetwutvm.jpg)
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looks like it's possibly a Pro Circuit pipe?...that's a good thing if so.
all the black spooge all over the front frame rails and down the front of the motor bring back horrifying memories of my '00 the day I brought it home.
the bar mounts will come out, you may need to give them a helping hand with a rubber mallet, but they'll come out. When you re-install them, use a touch of grease so the rubber cones and mounts won't "weld" themselves in again.
I believe that's an '05 KX250 rear fender.
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Hey Fox, yea it's a Pro Circuit Platinum. Pretty stoked on that. Hopefully I can get it shining nicely again. Also no dents in it really, just a small one below the Pro Circuit badge.
Yea :| Do you recon all that spooge is from the o rings on the header being shot? Can I fix that issue with new ones?
Okey cool, I have hammered the living daylights out of the bar mounts with a rubber mallet already. Will try some more :-P
Will make sure to give it some lube when the new ones go on.
Hmmm, no wonder it looked funny on the bike. Will have to get a new one for this model then.
Thanks for the feedback.
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if the pipe didn't have the O-rings, then yeah, it'll make that much of a mess....but also remember, there is some issues going on with your carb too...and getting it jetted right. We don't know the condition of your top-end yet either.
You could try some heat on the bar mounts, just be careful...I'd rather see you try some P.B. Blaster penetrating oil first, spray some on and let it sit for a day, then try the rubber mallet again.
It wouldn't hurt to get a set of these billet cones, and get rid of the rubber ones either...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,13422.0.html
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here's the new listing for the billet cones....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-2000-KX250-Billet-Handlebar-Mounts-Triple-Clamp-Bushing-1996-1997-1998-1999-/111608609656?vxp=mtr
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N3Wk is what came out of my 99 KX250 carb :|
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N3Wk is what came out of my 99 KX250 carb :|
that's 5 steps leaner over the N3YK....as long as the clip is in the middle it will be fine.
I'm running the N3WJ, which is 4 steps leaner over stock, in my '00, with the clip in the 2nd from top comfortably.
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N3Wk is what came out of my 99 KX250 carb :|
that's 5 steps leaner over the N3YK....as long as the clip is in the middle it will be fine.
I'm running the N3WJ, which is 4 steps leaner over stock, in my '00, with the clip in the 2nd from top comfortably.
Will you be willing to part with it if it will work, Sandblaster?
So you recon this will work with my setup Fox? And it won't be too lean? I will be running Motul 710 at 40:1 with the PC Platinum header and the DEP silencer.
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what's your ballpark elevation?
it will work...you just want to be sure you have the clip in the middle position.
these bikes came extremely rich from the factory, and going with a needle 4 steps leaner was necessary to get them to run clean. I run mine with the clip in the 2nd from top, which is a leaner setting, with no problems.
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Thats good news then! I have sea all around me so its pretty safe to say a few meters above sea level at most.
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I run at either side of 200 feet above sea level...you're good.
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Hey guys, here's an update...
After breaking a screw driver and small hammer, I decided to get the (semi) right, but cheap tools and get a good hammer and punch. I got the bearings out! The front was surprisingly difficult. I still have to properly clean the front hub and rim like I did the rear.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iKKeLsm9zQg/VRU-1RUhqkI/AAAAAAAAFR8/ROWLhCR3GQY/w542-h600-no/20150326_174957.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gt_i2QKCB18/VRU-1w8qKXI/AAAAAAAAFSI/jhkY9zqIS5k/w625-h600-no/20150326_175002.jpg)
Drained tha apple sauce coolant.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-091Wx1kMdGU/VRU-2KmJLPI/AAAAAAAAFSE/WQPSSj-CUR4/w535-h500-no/20150326_175028.jpg)
Drained the tar-like transmission fluid.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_QruFtX1rh0/VRU-32olh8I/AAAAAAAAFSg/HbHID3eMq3Y/w564-h667-no/20150326_180509.jpg)
Removed the header for reviving.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hGZowJSGSyY/VRU-4AphbkI/AAAAAAAAFSs/fAFohZzhToM/w800-h332-no/20150326_180517.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BFArSIfvMV0/VRU-28bR3FI/AAAAAAAAFSM/B-Qf4N0DUKw/w375-h667-no/20150326_175233.jpg)
I upped my game with a magnetic bowl.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jRC8bWSD3Xs/VRU-3n6jr1I/AAAAAAAAFTI/1-vF4etzSnw/w609-h667-no/20150326_180338.jpg)
Go the the triple clamps off, but the bar mount are not moving at all. Seems like they are stuck in there good.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r5MO2lBJG1k/VRU-5MAgZDI/AAAAAAAAFSw/pYEySrMC8J4/w480-h667-no/20150327_125740.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AgCoEXGTXeA/VRU-5r_uUkI/AAAAAAAAFS8/--ocZSOAZ9g/w505-h667-no/20150327_125742.jpg)
The steering stem bearings look salvageable. They turned very smooth when they where on the bike. Just needs a clean and good regrease.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uRiVn0Yzun8/VRU-6TktciI/AAAAAAAAFTM/rt1teAgHqY4/w498-h667-no/20150327_130146.jpg)
Whats left.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oXSAf1AJIKA/VRU-5xUoE0I/AAAAAAAAFTE/wElMHuK52Vs/w800-h450-no/20150327_125804.jpg)
Can anyone tell me what Kawasaki model this rear fender comes off? It says made in Italy at bottom, so maybe an Acerbis. But I think it is the wrong rear fender for the bike as it didn't look right when it was on the bike. It seemed too far back.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oASTKTxFyk4/VRU-4uTLlhI/AAAAAAAAFSo/wjGOHPgbtTQ/w361-h667-no/20150327_125414.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8I3Ra2xj7Hg/VRVBx3I-wrI/AAAAAAAAFTc/73yne1gybPo/w1091-h614-no/20150309_073158.jpg)
Great work so far. Do yourself a favor and grab yourself a map gas torch and a bearing and race removal set from harbor freight. The heat will save your life getting old bearings out and getting the new ones in. Remember to leave your new bearings in the freezer for a little while before install and then heat up the area around where the bearings will be installed with the torch. If you do that, the bearing and race driving set will get those new bearings in place in just minutes. I wish I Would have known that before I attacked my swingarm.
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P.S. The jetting on my bike is probably a bit off. However thanks to some great advice by KevinTwoStroke at the track, the 101 octane I tried last week changed the game for me. The bike runs 10x better and there is no bog off the bottom.
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Thanks MXonaKawi! Yea, it's going pretty slow, but I am making sure I am doing everything right and as far as my wallet allows me to go each month. That is a good idea. Have done the freezer trick before on another project and worked nicely, but will also look into the torch. Thanks! Octane? Haha, I know nothing about that, but will see when I get the bike up and running. So your baby is going sweet? You should update your thread with some pics! Need to see the final fruits of your labor. :lol:
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Hey guys. I need more help on this carb needle business. I am struggling to find anything close to what Fox and Sandblaster suggested without many headaches. I have a good friend in the UK that can get me something on that side. He found this...but I have no idea if it will work or not. Any thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261437939226
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I can't say it will work...I can't even say I'd advise it....
if you still have your old bent one, measure the length, and be as precise as you can....then see if you can find out the length of that new one. If they're the same length, that's a plus...
then you would need to measure the diameter in 3 spots...top-middle-bottom....they would have to match nearly exact to the bent one you have.
If I myself were to try it, I would set the clip in the 2nd groove from the bottom to start....but again, I don't advise it.
Try giving these guys a shout...
http://pjmotorsports.com/
I've been using them for a few years now, and they're really good people deal with.
Tell them your situation, and they may have you send them your bent needle to match up with one of theirs.
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Ok thanks Fox. I would rather not even go there then.
Could you send me a PM with your email address, I want to ask you something. Not sure if you can receive PMs, have tried sending you one.
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Hey guys, heres an update.
So I got that bastard bar mounts off. I had to cut the one off because it just wouldn't move. Got it off, and started cleaning. Happy with the results.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150331_183052_zpsodxtt67b.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150331_183056_zpsakvrenbg.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150331_183104_zpsh20g4j1f.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150331_183109_zps9vpq5cj8.jpg)
And last night I really focused my attention on getting the bike stripped fully so that I can start the rebuilding process after giving the frame, sub-frame and swing arm a fresh coat of paint. I wasn't going to do this, but I figured I would probably want to do it on a later stage, so I'd rather do it now while bike is naked and get it out of the way.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150401_073118_zpsttclcqnk.jpg)
Just have the motor left to remove. Surprisingly, the linkage was not as bad to remove as I'd thought it would be. It was caked in old crap. Maybe that old crap really sealed in all the lube making it difficult to dry out. :lol:
I still have to take a shot of the reeds to show, but they look like they are still in a decent condition. So no need to replace those. Thank goodness. Only thing I noticed was that reeds where pulled up a little, enough for the fuel to return to carb, so I thought I'd just flip the petals over solving that issue. Let me know if there is some reason I can't do that. I will post a pic of the reeds when I get a chance to take a photo of them.
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You may or may not have success with flipping the pedals over.
A thorough disassembly and ultra cleaning may solve that issue.
However, thinking about what those pedals do (opening and shutting how many times a minute?) you may want to replace them just for good measure.
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You may or may not have success with flipping the pedals over.
A thorough disassembly and ultra cleaning may solve that issue.
However, thinking about what those pedals do (opening and shutting how many times a minute?) you may want to replace them just for good measure.
+1
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Hi guys, I managed to get this part from ebay and they ship to SA so I took the plunge. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Kawasaki-Needle-Jet-N3WE-for-KX250-1997-2000-/171713056917
It's an N3WE and it's meant to be a stock needle for AS and EU according to the workshop manual. Hope and pray for the best. What do you guys think?
As far as the reeds are concerned. I totally understand what you are saying, but from a cost point of view I am first going to try flip it. Once the bike is running and it's really running crap I will save up to get new ones.
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Hi guys, I managed to get this part from ebay and they ship to SA so I took the plunge. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Kawasaki-Needle-Jet-N3WE-for-KX250-1997-2000-/171713056917
It's an N3WE and it's meant to be a stock needle for AS and EU according to the workshop manual. Hope and pray for the best. What do you guys think?
run it...when you get it, put the clip in the middle position.
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Awesome! So glad that's sorted. Now just hoping the shipping and delivery goes smooth.
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Hey guys, hope everybody had a great Easter weekend.
I can get my forks serviced pretty soon and need some advice on fork oil viscosity. I can't afford to get the right springs put in the forks for my weight right now, but thought I can at least put the right viscosity oil in, will it help? I weigh just over 100 kg or roughly 220 lbs, what oil should I go with? :?
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Hey guys, a little status update since I have been out of action for a while...
I received my main jet needle I ordered in the mail today. So happy about that. So I will run it in middle position as you suggested, Fox. I also received the float bowl gasket and pilot air screw o-ring a while ago, so the carb is complete and ready to go back on the bike.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150506_140244_zps2r2yru8n.jpg)
I have sent my frame, sub-frame and swingarm in for powder coating about 3 weeks ago which should be done soon, hopefully, then the rebuild can officially start.
Ed
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10wt on the suspension. Open chamber forks like it a little better.
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So I will run it in middle position as you suggested, Fox. I also received the float bowl gasket and pilot air screw o-ring a while ago, so the carb is complete and ready to go back on the bike.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IU1v5vHB648/VUoEwIBijtI/AAAAAAAAFak/DWLY3A2LmuU/w558-h402-no/20150506_140244.jpg)
I have sent my frame, sub-frame and swingarm in for powder coating about 3 weeks ago which should be done soon, hopefully, then the rebuild can officially start.
Ed
awesome Ed... yes, put the clip in the middle to start...then once you get it up and running for a day or two, then you can worry about dialing in the jetting more precisely.
can't wait to see your frame all done...what color did you go with?
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10wt on the suspension. Open chamber forks like it a little better.
Awesome, will get the 10W then, thanks alward25!
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So I will run it in middle position as you suggested, Fox. I also received the float bowl gasket and pilot air screw o-ring a while ago, so the carb is complete and ready to go back on the bike.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IU1v5vHB648/VUoEwIBijtI/AAAAAAAAFak/DWLY3A2LmuU/w558-h402-no/20150506_140244.jpg)
I have sent my frame, sub-frame and swingarm in for powder coating about 3 weeks ago which should be done soon, hopefully, then the rebuild can officially start.
Ed
awesome Ed... yes, put the clip in the middle to start...then once you get it up and running for a day or two, then you can worry about dialing in the jetting more precisely.
can't wait to see your frame all done...what color did you go with?
Hey Fox, yea, I put the clip in the middle position last night and reassembled the carb. So now it's ready to rock and roll. I also turned the pilot air screw out 1 1/2 as the service manual said. We can see how it runs when the bike is done and then fine tune it like you suggested.
For the frame and subframe I have gone with a gunmetal grey colour and stock silver for the swing arm. I've also asked them to recoat the foot pegs (swingarm silver) and exhaust brackets my dad made me (frame gunmetal). I am sure it will look awesome when it's done. I can't wait to see it either.
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nice...that should look good.
you gonna keep the green and white plastics?
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nice...that should look good.
you gonna keep the green and white plastics?
Yea, will stick with green and white plastics, but going with black fork guards. Before I got the bike I had some time to design graphics and a mock-up of what I'd like the bike to look like. I have managed to organise a small sponsor for decals with Camelbak, hence the Camelbak logo, which I think looks great and goes well with the bike. The gunmetal grey frame really makes it feel fresh and a bit more updated without changing a whole lot.
Original photo
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/csteel54_1_zpsmwi3cqfx.jpg)
My changes
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/Complete%20Decals%20Mock-Up%201_zpsfdryn1ks.jpg)
When I get around to refoaming and covering the seat, I'll love to even out the shape of the seat a bit. Not a fan of that super thin design.
What do you guys think?
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I like it!
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Hi guys! So I finally got my frame, subframe, swingarm, foot pegs and exhaust brackets back from powder coating and I am very happy with the job overall and got it done at a great price.
I thought the silver of the swingarm will be a bit more of a bright silver than a grey silver, but not a train smash. And they didn't do the best job of masking off all the bearing spots, so I will just take some fine sandpaper and smooth that out before installing any bearings. But d**n, that gun metal grey is spot on. Exactly what I wanted. I can't wait to start putting everything back together!
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150513_121312_zpsvpiewmwc.jpg)
Ed
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Sweet Ed!!...I like it.
get that baby back together so I can determine if I want to go the same color.
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That looks really nice, gun metal rocks. Walmart sells a blue 1" firm camp pad that might help build your seat up to where you want it without buying all new foam.
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Thanks guys. I'm very stoked on the gun metal, it looks great. A big problem I came across last night is they didn't mask off the bold holes for the rear brake line, chain slider and the plates that go on the inside of the swing arm where the axle goes through. :x I struggled for ages trying to get the bols in but they just wont go in. Also as I mentioned in my previous post, they didn't do a great job of masking the bearing areas either, but not as bad as the bold holes though. I am pretty irritated about that, especially after asking them twice to make sure it is all masked off well.
Anyway, should I just tap the bold holes and sand the bearing areas? I've read up about thread chasers last night, but not sure I will be able to get a hold of that so easy. Is there any advice you guys can give me from similar experiences?
Hey 81cr450, thanks for the advice. We don't have Walmarts here in SA though, and I also think all of the foam need to be replaced since it hasn't been replaced since 99 and it's about as thin as a as a sponge. I got a quote from a guy to do foam and recover for a good price here. Will give him a try when I get to the seat.
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I am faced with another issue, this time on my front rim. It has a crack on both sides in the same spot, but doesn't run all the way through.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150511_130712_zpsswxykvbt.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150511_130725_zps8rltpdlb.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150511_130748_zpsrf05wjky.jpg)
I spoke to a guy at my local shop who I buy stuff from, who also rides, and he says I can get it welded, strong weld instead of pretty weld, and it should hold up. But he can also offer me a new rim and spokes for R2000 / $168,29, but will set me back a lot with the bike build.
As this is a safety concern for me I am almost leaning more towards the side of spending the money to have a piece of mind when I ride, but if you guys think the weld will hold up well for a long time, I will prefer to go with that.
Any thoughts on that?
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welding it would hold providing the welder was/is good at welding...
I myself would buy a new wheel...one less thing to worry about...and no need to roll the dice with your well being and possibly your life if it was to break/fail.
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Agreed: a competent TIG/Heliarc welder should be able to fix those cracks. The area around the cracks should be scrubbed clean...like hospital clean, eat-off-of-it clean. Then a small hole should be drilled at the end of each crack to keep it from running further. After the holes are drilled, the cracks should be beveled. At this point, the welder can work his/her magic.
The case for replacement is a strong one, though. The cracks are either from plain old metal fatigue or from a single big hit. That rim has led a hard life.
If you do choose to have it welded, I think you'd best consider it a temporary fix and replace it ASAP.
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Hi guys. I've struck luck. I found a guy willing to sell me his rim for a great price. It's a D.I.D. from what I can see. He says it came off a KDX200. It doesn't seem to have space for a rim lock though. Only one hole for valve or rim lock. Will it be a train smash to run no rim lock and just get a snug fitting tyre?
What it says on the rim: D.I.D. Japan J 21x1.60 4 90 DOT
Current cracked rim: Takasago J 21x1.60 DOT 317 Japan 798
Will the new one work for me?
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Hey guys, while I was at home for lunch I quickly counted the spokes and both are 36. So thats good, and they are both 1.60, should work alright.
I pondered about the rim lock a bit and thought of this...I've been riding my DR650 pretty hard off road and run it at 1 bar. It doesn't have a rim lock and never had issues with tearing the tubes, so I am actually not to phased about the rim not having a spot for a rim lock.
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I am faced with another issue, this time on my front rim. It has a crack on both sides in the same spot, but doesn't run all the way through.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0I5wRlJ4brQ/VVRLJWqzVcI/AAAAAAAAFeI/dskKbNhBugI/w695-h696-no/20150511_130712.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Nhx9aQWQ4Fc/VVRLJKHzP7I/AAAAAAAAFeQ/KaOYYkdtzm8/s696-no/20150511_130725.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kFuWmP6iVKM/VVRLI97HJLI/AAAAAAAAFeE/A1g_HqmLjDU/s696-no/20150511_130748.jpg)
I spoke to a guy at my local shop who I buy stuff from, who also rides, and he says I can get it welded, strong weld instead of pretty weld, and it should hold up. But he can also offer me a new rim and spokes for R2000 / $168,29, but will set me back a lot with the bike build.
As this is a safety concern for me I am almost leaning more towards the side of spending the money to have a piece of mind when I ride, but if you guys think the weld will hold up well for a long time, I will prefer to go with that.
Any thoughts on that?
I went through the same thing with my 87 KX 250 build.
I had a machine shop say "yeah we can weld it" and the work was done by a young guy and I paid $60.
I told him not to grind the weld on the outside....which he did anyway, and I had to take it back again since I saw a hairline crack in the weld. I could do a better job myself.
$60 down the drain and l couldn't get my money back since "the work was already done" and I didn't feel "safe" riding it that way.
Plus the rim was probably brittle anyway being it was from 1987.
I know it's an extra expense, but do yourself a favor (like I was told, and should have listened) and replace the rim and spokes.
I eventually bought new spokes from this place, http://www.radmfg.com/ for around $60...mention your a member of ADV rider and get a .....I think 10% discount.
Then I bought Warp 9 rims from Rocky Mountain.
I did both front and back and I "feel" safer rider it.
Just my 2 cents
dinky,
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I went through the same thing with my 87 KX 250 build.
I had a machine shop say "yeah we can weld it" and the work was done by a young guy and I paid $60.
I told him not to grind the weld on the outside....which he did anyway, and I had to take it back again since I saw a hairline crack in the weld. I could do a better job myself.
$60 down the drain and l couldn't get my money back since "the work was already done" and I didn't feel "safe" riding it that way.
Plus the rim was probably brittle anyway being it was from 1987.
I know it's an extra expense, but do yourself a favor (like I was told, and should have listened) and replace the rim and spokes.
I eventually bought new spokes from this place, http://www.radmfg.com/ for around $60...mention your a member of ADV rider and get a .....I think 10% discount.
Then I bought Warp 9 rims from Rocky Mountain.
I did both front and back and I "feel" safer rider it.
Just my 2 cents
dinky,
Thanks Dinky, I managed to get a good condition rim for under $40. Check my out my last two posts prior to this one.
It sounds like a ball ache what you went through! I am lucky to have found such a good solution, so quickly for such a good price. Made my day.
Ed
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Glad your sorting it out.....
Riding is so much better when you feel safe...
dinky,
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I know it's an extra expense, but do yourself a favor (like I was told, and should have listened) and replace the rim and spokes.
I'm pretty sure I told you the same thing....same scenario.
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I know it's an extra expense, but do yourself a favor (like I was told, and should have listened) and replace the rim and spokes.
I'm pretty sure I told you the same thing....same scenario.
Hey Foxx! Yea you did :-D I wrote this earlier today. What do you recon?
Hi guys. I've struck luck. I found a guy willing to sell me his rim for a great price. It's a D.I.D. from what I can see. He says it came off a KDX200. It doesn't seem to have space for a rim lock though. Only one hole for valve or rim lock. Will it be a train smash to run no rim lock and just get a snug fitting tyre?
What it says on the rim: D.I.D. Japan J 21x1.60 4 90 DOT
Current cracked rim: Takasago J 21x1.60 DOT 317 Japan 798
Will the new one work for me?
and...
Hey guys, while I was at home for lunch I quickly counted the spokes and both are 36. So thats good, and they are both 1.60, should work alright.
I pondered about the rim lock a bit and thought of this...I've been riding my DR650 pretty hard off road and run it at 1 bar. It doesn't have a rim lock and never had issues with tearing the tubes, so I am actually not to phased about the rim not having a spot for a rim lock.
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spacers and axle size would be the concerns....maybe alward25 would know, he's really good with wheel fitting.
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spacers and axle size would be the concerns....maybe alward25 would know, he's really good with wheel fitting.
I only got the rim, I did not get a hub with it. I will use my existing hub and re-lace the new rim onto it using the old spokes.
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you should be fine if that's the case...providing the spoke nipples are the same diameter for the new wheel you're getting...which I'm not sure of.
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I know it's an extra expense, but do yourself a favor (like I was told, and should have listened) and replace the rim and spokes.
I'm pretty sure I told you the same thing....same scenario.
Yep....I should have listened to you.... :-D
$60 down the drain :-(
Live and learn.
dinky,
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Live and learn.
dinky,
yup...we've all been there....I'm still learning the hard ways of different things everyday :oops:
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Hey guys. So last night I tried to remove my spokes from the old rim and snapped one of the spokes, so now I will have to buy a new set, which is a good thing for the reliability side of things.
Breaking one off I could confirm that the spoke nipples would not have fit on the new rim anyway. So hope I can get a set that does.
I was thinking, will i severely weaken or damage the rim if I drilled a hole for a rim lock? Or should I not chance it?
Ed
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I was thinking, will i severely weaken or damage the rim if I drilled a hole for a rim lock? Or should I not chance it?
Ed
if it were me...I wouldn't....but...
you could try contacting Takasago and see what their thoughts are on drilling a rim lock hole.
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if it were me...I wouldn't....but...
you could try contacting Takasago and see what their thoughts are on drilling a rim lock hole.
Thanks Fox. I have sent D.I.D a mail asking for advice, Takasago did not seem to have an email address. Maybe I should rather leave it than stuffing around with a good thing and messing it up.
Ed
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Hi guys, I have been off the grid a bit. Had to take a break from the bike build in terms of spending money. But have completely stripped, cleaned and reassembled the front master cylinder and started stripping the engine. I found very helpful videos on line about the engine so it gave me a little confidence. Since I dont have the tools to completely take the bottom end apart, I am tackling the top end then will send bottom end away for inspection. The top end seems in good shape besides for lots of carb buildup in the power valve system and loads of that red silicone everywhere. The cylinder is really smooth with no scores. I was very happy to discover this.
I have disassembled the whole power valve system and cleaned all the parts. No broken gears or any lost pars. I am now trying to clean the cylinder block, but it's super difficult doing it by hand and it takes for ever trying to get into all the power valve porst to get the gunk out.
Are there any other DIY methods anybody can suggest? Can I boil the cylinder block to remove the wors of the oil and gunked up carbon or will it affect the cylinder in a negative way?
I will post some pics soon of my progress.
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Are there any other DIY methods anybody can suggest? Can I boil the cylinder block to remove the wors of the oil and gunked up carbon or will it affect the cylinder in a negative way?
I will post some pics soon of my progress.
pipe cleaning brushes and degreaser work great for DIY...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BOUJg2RvtNw/TWJWHSRFLWI/AAAAAAAAAEE/sePSuMFV54E/s1600/PCK+on+blue+background.jpg)
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Hey guys, while I was at home for lunch I quickly counted the spokes and both are 36. So thats good, and they are both 1.60, should work alright.
I pondered about the rim lock a bit and thought of this...I've been riding my DR650 pretty hard off road and run it at 1 bar. It doesn't have a rim lock and never had issues with tearing the tubes, so I am actually not to phased about the rim not having a spot for a rim lock.
I drilled a 8mm hole opposite the rimlock on my 97 rm250. Instead of a rimlock i put a bolt through and added washers that were the same weight as my rimlock to balance out my wheel. It smoothed out my ride a lot (i ride about six miles on the highway to get to my trails). Before i did that the bars would move up and down like a jackhammer from imbalance. Just be sure to chamfer the new hole and drill it the same distance from both adjacent spokes and i think itll be fine as long as the rim isnt cracked anywhere else.
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Are there any other DIY methods anybody can suggest? Can I boil the cylinder block to remove the wors of the oil and gunked up carbon or will it affect the cylinder in a negative way?
I will post some pics soon of my progress.
pipe cleaning brushes and degreaser work great for DIY...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BOUJg2RvtNw/TWJWHSRFLWI/AAAAAAAAAEE/sePSuMFV54E/s1600/PCK+on+blue+background.jpg)
Yea, thats a great idea, thanks Foxx! And any suggestions for the other areas? Like this...
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150710_080754_zpsnnmbonpw.jpg)
I managed to get the cover nice and clean, but doing it in the actual block is another story. Took me almost 2 hours just to get the cover nice and clean like that.
A shot before removing everything
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150622_082000_zpsnjpgjzrj.jpg)
Before cleaning
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150712_131031_zpspzuwq0p0.jpg)
After on cylinder head
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150709_172148_zpsuunndfrf.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150707_071217_zpsejbc2vp7.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150714_183052_zpsheqlvaft.jpg)
Shot of the cylinder
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150706_205857_zpsjxlu9b8w.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150706_205938_zps9alt4blc.jpg)
Can anybody tell me what this nut is for? I tried to remove it. It screws out, but the get tighter the more I remove it. I didn't want to force it, so just left it.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150714_182933_zpsvqz1mfds.jpg)
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Hey guys, while I was at home for lunch I quickly counted the spokes and both are 36. So thats good, and they are both 1.60, should work alright.
I pondered about the rim lock a bit and thought of this...I've been riding my DR650 pretty hard off road and run it at 1 bar. It doesn't have a rim lock and never had issues with tearing the tubes, so I am actually not to phased about the rim not having a spot for a rim lock.
I drilled a 8mm hole opposite the rimlock on my 97 rm250. Instead of a rimlock i put a bolt through and added washers that were the same weight as my rimlock to balance out my wheel. It smoothed out my ride a lot (i ride about six miles on the highway to get to my trails). Before i did that the bars would move up and down like a jackhammer from imbalance. Just be sure to chamfer the new hole and drill it the same distance from both adjacent spokes and i think itll be fine as long as the rim isnt cracked anywhere else.
Hey Actionman! Thanks for the advice on the rim. For now, I will try and run the front without a rim lock when the bike is up and running. If something goes wrong and I see that I definitely need a rim lock I will attempt drilling a hole. Figured a problem without running rim lock might be cheaper than if I have a problem after drilling a hole, so will try the cheaper option first. :-P
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I run light weight rim locks from Motion Pro
(https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcSbQ0TVPrHqpiQBgTDe3uDSKyDYxkto04KKED7Tlw4123m6X1jX6J8t3ByJC9PqsZw0-KeYPCk&usqp=CAE)
Then, I balance my wheels.... :-o
Cleaning?
There are many methods discussed on this forum.
Boiling, baking, oven cleaner, soda blasting, sand blasting, acid washing, hot water pressure washing, scotch brite... ect...
I use vapor blasting
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=3299)
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=2823)
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=2824)
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=3379)
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Showoff. :-D
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Yea, thats a great idea, thanks Foxx! And any suggestions for the other areas? Like this...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ac6WsJd43VeNncj77rl1BTPcyFhNNwXuJlhUIBUa2DQ=w800-h450-no)
I use my buddies solvent tank down the street for the internals.
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the bolt on the side of cylinder is a drain plug, so you can drain the cylinder before you remove it.
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I run light weight rim locks from Motion Pro
Then, I balance my wheels.... :-o
Cleaning?
There are many methods discussed on this forum.
Boiling, baking, oven cleaner, soda blasting, sand blasting, acid washing, hot water pressure washing, scotch brite... ect...
I use vapor blasting
My concern is with the rim lock is drilling a hole myself since the rim I got doesn't have one. So will try riding without one.
Haha! Total showoff :lol: Really wish I can get my engine cases to look like that. Can you elaborate more on boiling or anything I can do at home for the internals? Will anything be really bad for the cylinder? I am rather new to the engine side of things so have lots of questions.
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I use my buddies solvent tank down the street for the internals.
Do you think boiling will help? Will it be bad for the cylinder? And how do I do it?
the bolt on the side of cylinder is a drain plug, so you can drain the cylinder before you remove it.
Cool thanks Foxx. The bolt was very stiff! Maybe I'll loosen it a bit and spray some penetrating oil to maybe loosen up the chalk stuff. Sure thats what is keeping it from coming out.
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Do you think boiling will help? Will it be bad for the cylinder? And how do I do it?
Cool thanks Foxx. The bolt was very stiff! Maybe I'll loosen it a bit and spray some penetrating oil to maybe loosen up the chalk stuff. Sure thats what is keeping it from coming out.
I've never had to try boiling...I either use my buddies solvent tank, or the company I send my cylinders to...PowerSeal, to get re-plated....and they clean them up incredibly.
PB Blaster penetrating oil and a little heat...it'll come out.
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Hey guys! Here is a small victory update. The rear wheel is done and ready to go. New bearings, seals and grease, sprocket, stainless steel hardware, rim tape I made from bicycle tube and rim lock.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150808_095144_zpstms0g4h0.jpg)
Getting a top end gasket kit soon and will probably be able to send motor bottom end off next month.
Ed
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I run light weight rim locks from Motion Pro
(https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcSbQ0TVPrHqpiQBgTDe3uDSKyDYxkto04KKED7Tlw4123m6X1jX6J8t3ByJC9PqsZw0-KeYPCk&usqp=CAE)
Then, I balance my wheels.... :-o
Cleaning?
There are many methods discussed on this forum.
Boiling, baking, oven cleaner, soda blasting, sand blasting, acid washing, hot water pressure washing, scotch brite... ect...
I use vapor blasting
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=3299)
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=2823)
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=2824)
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=3379)
Dude the shine of that motor makes me hard.
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If I lived closer to Sandblaster, every bike I own would be apart and at his shop being cleaned up. Oh, and I would broke. :-D
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Hey guys. I have finally got around to cleaning my cylinder to reassemble the KIPS system. I saw on another forum that guys suggest using oven cleaner to loosen the carbon in the compartments and it worked quite well. After I cleaned my entire cylinder i made sure everything was nice and clean of chemicals then dried it and used a hair drier in the hard to reach areas to make sure there was no water left behind. After I dried it all the machined areas of the luminium turned dark grey. My gut tels me that its nothing major to be concerned about, but, is it it something to be concerned about?
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its good to spray them with WD40
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its good to spray them with WD40
Thanks SOHC. I've given the cylinder a coat of 2 stroke oil, will give the other machined areas a coat of WD40 as you suggested. Appreciate the feedback, thanks.
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After I dried it all the machined areas of the luminium turned dark grey. My gut tels me that its nothing major to be concerned about, but, is it it something to be concerned about?
Not sure... Probably not but pics would sure help..
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be careful where you use wd40....it has an abrasive in it, and will tear moving parts up quickly if you're not careful where you spray it....keep it away from your cylinder walls and the slots for the KIPS valves in the cylinder.
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I didn't know that about WD-40.
I don't use it for assembly but that's good to know...
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I didn't know that about WD-40.
I don't use it for assembly but that's good to know...
JoJo Keller's mechanic made me aware of it back in '85-'86...he saw me using it on my chain, and said..."never use wd40 on your chain, always use certified chain lube"...then he said, "why do you think it cleans so well?, and why do you think it frees things up so quickly?"....I said "I have no idea"....that's when he said "it's because it has an abrasive in it".....and he knew that, because he claimed he knew a guy that worked at a wd40 plant in Cali.
They could've changed the formula by know...I have no idea...I know it still cleans and frees things up like it always has, today.
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Great advice, thanks for sharing Foxx. Luckily I didn't spray any on yet as I want to mask off any holes to touch up the outside of the cylinder as it is looking a little bit ratty. I have noticed what you are talking about. It's almost like it has a "grippy" feeling instead of slippery. I will try and take a photo of it tonight. Basically all the exposed areas where gaskets go have turned a dark grey instead of silver.
Ed
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I thought it was diesel and silicon like CRC spray, I must say I have never used WD40 as its not very common in my neck of the woods
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WD-40 is mostly fish oil from what I have heard.
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could be....as I stated, they could've changed the formula from 30 years ago....but...as rule of thumb, never use rust inhibitors or penetrating oils on working internal engine parts, unless of course the engine's been sitting for years and you need to free something up.
I know I've never seen any top engine builders using wd, crc, pb-blaster, or any other rust inhibitors or penetrating oils as a coating on internal engine parts...they use assembly lube, and/or motor oil...I myself use 2T oil...the same oil that I use in my pre-mix.
Everyone's got their own preference and method, so use what you want...but I don't advise wd-40 or any other aerosol spray.
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Sheesh, sorry for the delay guys. Here is a pic of the darkened machined part on the top end. Happened after cleaning. Anything to be concerned about or is it just some basic discolouration?
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150904_130234_zpsmnsg6b0x.jpg)
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I wouldn't be too concerned, oven cleaner has a tendency to do that to some extent. As long as there's no pitting on the cylinders deck surface, it'll be good.
I would pull the studs though, and lap the cylinders deck surface, and the head as well...just to be sure everything is nice and flat, so you don't have any blown/leaky head gasket issues.
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I wouldn't be too concerned, oven cleaner has a tendency to do that to some extent. As long as there's no pitting on the cylinders deck surface, it'll be good.
I would pull the studs though, and lap the cylinders deck surface, and the head as well...just to be sure everything is nice and flat, so you don't have any blown/leaky head gasket issues.
Hey Fox, thanks for the suggestion and sorry to get back to you so late. There is no pitting from what I could see. Is there a way I can lap the cylinder surface at home?
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Also a little update. I got new steering stem bearings and seals. Installed the races successfully, packed the bearings with waterproof grease and on they went. Used 2 halves of a close fitting PVC pipe to drive the bottom bearing down. It worked well. Will set the tension correctly once the bike has the wheels back on. :lol:
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Hey Fox, thanks for the suggestion and sorry to get back to you so late. There is no pitting from what I could see. Is there a way I can lap the cylinder surface at home?
yes there is...
you want the yellow label which is the "100N Very Fine"
http://www.ws2coating.com/100n.aspx
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac152/foxx4afoxx2/ts_zpsec9453d6.jpg)
shop around the web...you may find cheaper shipping to your area through someone else.
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Hey guys, check this out. I have an issue with the kick starter. The boss and the kick start arm are a miss match. I'm not sure if it's the boss or the kick start arm thats the incorrect part, but they clearly don't fit. The boss fits onto the engine though. A new OEM boss is heavily overpriced, as well as the whole kick start mechanism.
Any advice?
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150925_130708_zpsgkjbbxji.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150925_130728_zpsgqajqi5t.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150925_130744_zps3y0fpshz.jpg)
Ed
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Could you get the kick start leaver welded up and grind and file it back to match the steel part?
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A new OEM boss is heavily overpriced, as well as the whole kick start mechanism.
what's "overpriced" in your neck of the woods?
here in the U.S. a new boss for the '99 250 lists for either side of $55 USD...
and a complete kicker mechanism lists for either side of a $100 USD...
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Could you get the kick start leaver welded up and grind and file it back to match the steel part?
Hey SOHC. Thanks for the reply. Thats kind of what I thought of doing, but the top part of the boss that goes into the kickstart is a bit of a weird fit. Its very difficult to get in or remove, but swivels on the boss ok, which I guess is all that matters at the moment. Guess if I am not willing to spend like $65 on a new boss, thats the only way for me to go. Unless I can find a kickstart off another bike, like Yamaha, that will fit the Kawi.
Any idea which bikes and years are interchangeable?
Ed
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A new OEM boss is heavily overpriced, as well as the whole kick start mechanism.
what's "overpriced" in your neck of the woods?
here in the U.S. a new boss for the '99 250 lists for either side of $55 USD...
and a complete kicker mechanism lists for either side of a $100 USD...
Hey Foxx. I see its more or less like $65 for a boss and $1300 for the whole kickstart mechanism. It's a lot for me to fork out when there is so much more important things to spend my money on, so guess I will just try and make the parts I have work for me. I am seeing my dad in 2 months so will ask him to weld up the boss for me to make it stop the kickstart arm in the right places. That should work.
Ed
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You might be able to get a good used one off ebay, I have got a few parts from ebay in like new condition,
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The kx boss is a piece of garbage. Strips wayyyyy to easily.
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Hey guys. So a guy on a local forum gave me the number for a shop in Johannesburg who could get me a new boss for like half the price of the dealers, but was still a bit out of the range of what I was willing to spend. I guess if the bike had no boss at all I would have just bought it. But I thought about it and decided to try and make what I have work for me.
I built up the kick start arm with metal epoxy putty and filed it down to size to accommodate the small size of the boss. I got a new OEM bolt from Kawi and seal for under R80, which is about $14.
I had to tap the tread for the bold in the kickstart arm and drill away some metal debris (not in that particular order :-P). Not sure if someone tried to modify it and make it smaller, but things where very messed up in there. Then I had to modify the boss and cut away some metal to take the OEM bolt because the bolt really didn't want to go in with the boss in there. I managed to make it work with my tools and space available and its working great now. No play or rattling. Very please with the outcome and glad I went this route.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151005_203114_zpsj6g80xn9.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151005_203119_zpskvpbpyco.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151005_203138_zpsxkefgw2y.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151005_203143_zpsmsqgxaul.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151005_203153_zpsy6zfr5pn.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151005_203221_zpshmgomktb.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151005_204252_zpscxns9beb.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151005_204419_zpsvpm2poko.jpg)
Ed
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While I am here, here is the top end. Squeaky clean. Power valve system nice and smooth.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150923_172350_zpscsqtwgdb.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150923_172325_zps2pkr5izh.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20150923_172315_zpsygpsoh07.jpg)
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Hi there everyone. It's been a while since I have been able to do some work on the build. Today I managed to get some fork oil, dust and oil seals so I am ready to give the forks a good clean and rebuild.
On page 4 of my thread alward25 suggested I go with 10w fork oil, so I got me some 10W Motul fork oil. Can anybody else confirm that this will work for me? Not sure if it matters but I weigh about 220 pounds and will mostly do a good mix of sand riding and off road technical riding. I can still go change it out for something else, but just thought I'd double check and maybe get a few more opinions on this.
Ed
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as alward25 suggested, 10w should do you just fine.
you can always play with oil level heights(to some extent),and the rebound/compression clickers once you get some riding time on it to see how it feels.
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as alward25 suggested, 10w should do you just fine.
you can always play with oil level heights(to some extent),and the rebound/compression clickers once you get some riding time on it to see how it feels.
Awesome, thanks Foxx. Will post pics soon.
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Hey guys, managed to finish the forks. Got a rebuild kit to replace worn bushings and got new oil and dust seals. Topped up with fresh oil and put'em back together. Very happy. Unfortunately I am having some tech issue so didn't take many photos and lost the few I did, but here is a pic of the old fork oil.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151210_211654_zpsudgwppny.jpg)
Forks should be much happier now.
I've set the clickers to factory spec, but will play around with them once the bike is up and running and I can do testing.
Ed
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you should be very happy with them....I'm assuming the springs and valving are all stock?
Factory Connection only re-valved mine, the stock springs were left in there...I weigh either side of 215, and they work great.
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you should be very happy with them....I'm assuming the springs and valving are all stock?
Factory Connection only re-valved mine, the stock springs were left in there...I weigh either side of 215, and they work great.
Valving most probably will be stock, but the springs don't have and end where the gaps get smaller like the repair manual suggests, butt guess they are also stock? One side of the springs have three lines cut onto the flat ends, like a crosshair and used that for top. *shrug I weigh the same as you Foxx but with a lot less muscle and more flab. HAHAHA! I will definitely look to do some suspension upgrades in the future once the flames have been extinguished on my wallet :lol:
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Hi guys, I need some advice. I bought a new Excel spoke kit for the rim I got a while ago but the spoke nipples are a bit too big for the holes. They fit through the original rim though. I need to increase the hole from about 7.8mm to 8.5mm. Will it be safe to drill the holes a little bigger myself?
Ed
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I've drilled a ton of rims and hubs out but to be certain you should contact the rim manufacture.
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I've drilled a ton of rims and hubs out but to be certain you should contact the rim manufacture.
Thanks for the advice Sandblaster. I have tried contacting these guys before, but no success. It's only 0.8 mm bigger so not a major difference, just wanted to check with someone who has experience in this.
In other news, I got some Boyesen Power Reeds to replace the crappy old ones. My reed block did not have the valve stoppers when i took it apart. Do I have to have them?
Ed
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In other news, I got some Boyesen Power Reeds to replace the crappy old ones. My reed block did not have the valve stoppers when i took it apart. Do I have to have them?
Ed
stock reeds do require the stoppers...as the stoppers keep the reed petal tips from fluttering, and eventually breaking off. Boyesen and other aftermarket reeds usually use a small strip to hold them on, but with no stoppers.
try calling, or e-mailing Boyesen to see what they suggest.
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In other news, I got some Boyesen Power Reeds to replace the crappy old ones. My reed block did not have the valve stoppers when i took it apart. Do I have to have them?
Ed
stock reeds do require the stoppers...as the stoppers keep the reed petal tips from fluttering, and eventually breaking off. Boyesen and other aftermarket reeds usually use a small strip to hold them on, but with no stoppers.
try calling, or e-mailing Boyesen to see what they suggest.
They came with the gold strips. Will email them and ask. Thanks Foxx.
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They came with the gold strips. Will email them and ask. Thanks Foxx.
that should be all you need, as they act as stiffeners....but it won't hurt to ask Boyesen just to be sure/safe.
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They came with the gold strips. Will email them and ask. Thanks Foxx.
that should be all you need, as they act as stiffeners....but it won't hurt to ask Boyesen just to be sure/safe.
Ok, awesome. Just emailed them now. Will let you know what they say.
Ed
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Hey guys. I got a reply from Boyesen. Here's what they said.
"The Boyesen Power Reeds for a 1999 Kawasaki KX250 are part # 688. When installing the # 688 Boyesen reeds, you will only install the small metal rev plates included with the Boyesen reeds. Do not install the stock reed stoppers."
Good to know.
Reeds look great and seals flat to the cage. Should be a good upgrade from the old ones. Didn't tighten them too hard and used some blue Loctite and small split washers, so I am sure they wont be coming out.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151218_171218%202_zpsemthv9j7.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151218_171231%202_zps8j3byxqi.jpg)
Also, I managed to pick up a torque wrench for an absolute steal. Got this guy second hand, but unused, for R220 which is about $20. Now I can torque everything on the bike to spec instead of guessing.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20151223_090637%202_zps4fibjlti.jpg)
Happy holidays to everyone! A merry Christmas and a happy new year.
Ed
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"The Boyesen Power Reeds for a 1999 Kawasaki KX250 are part # 688. When installing the # 688 Boyesen reeds, you will only install the small metal rev plates included with the Boyesen reeds. Do not install the stock reed stoppers."
Also, I managed to pick up a torque wrench for an absolute steal. Got this guy second hand, but unused, for R220 which is about $20. Now I can torque everything on the bike to spec instead of guessing.
excellent...I was 99.9% sure the stoppers wouldn't be used.
good score on the torque wrench...being 2nd hand, it wouldn't hurt to bring it to a tool shop and have it calibrated...just to be sure it's accurate. :wink:
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"The Boyesen Power Reeds for a 1999 Kawasaki KX250 are part # 688. When installing the # 688 Boyesen reeds, you will only install the small metal rev plates included with the Boyesen reeds. Do not install the stock reed stoppers."
Also, I managed to pick up a torque wrench for an absolute steal. Got this guy second hand, but unused, for R220 which is about $20. Now I can torque everything on the bike to spec instead of guessing.
excellent...I was 99.9% sure the stoppers wouldn't be used.
good score on the torque wrench...being 2nd hand, it wouldn't hurt to bring it to a tool shop and have it calibrated...just to be sure it's accurate. :wink:
+1 8-)
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rebuilding this same bike, very nice build! the vapor blasting on the engine looks sweet!
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excellent...I was 99.9% sure the stoppers wouldn't be used.
good score on the torque wrench...being 2nd hand, it wouldn't hurt to bring it to a tool shop and have it calibrated...just to be sure it's accurate. :wink:
Good idea, I will see if I can find someone around here that can do that. Hopefully it won't be too pricey to do.
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rebuilding this same bike, very nice build! the vapor blasting on the engine looks sweet!
Thanks Subliminaltrips. Do you also have a post you are updating with your progress? I would like to check it out. Also a '99? I didn't vapor blast the engine, I would have loved to do it though. The top-end had a layer of high-temp silver paint on that I touched up. Next time I take the engine appart, I will get it soda blasted for sure. I have too many other things on my plate at the moment so just went with that route and I am happy with the outcome for now.
Ed
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Hi everyone. I had some time over the weekend to get working on the front wheel. I got a hold of a 8.5mm drill bit and carefully drilled the new rim holes to size. The nipples fit perfectly. Next step I took the plunge and cut the old spokes off the hub. Then spent some time tim cleaning the hub. After I was happy with the results I started rebuilding the wheel, applying generous amount of anti-seize grease to the spoke threads and finished it off by installing the bearings into the hub. Should have done the bearings prior to building but wasn't the end of the world. Now I will get a guy to true the wheel for me and then I am home free on the front wheel. Oh yea, also got me a Mitas C-19 for the front (forgot to take a pic of that).
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20160109_131100_zpsnbpapeus.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20160109_190616_zpseujdbqej.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20160109_220528_zpsxu8hwocq.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20160110_083956_zpsc880fuvb.jpg)
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looks like a new wheel with shiny new spokes!...good job.
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looks like a new wheel with shiny new spokes!...good job.
Thanks Foxx! Yea the Excel spokes I got brand new. The rim is second hand in fairly good condition and old hub. Pleased with the outcome. I did a small clean test on the outside of my pipe last night and now I am itching to get to that.
For the inside I am going to try empty a can of oven cleaner and then run a frayed clutch cable afterwards. Seems like most reasonable method as I don't have any other tools and don't really want to try the torch method for all the smoke it makes (close neighbours and kid in house) and think a bonfire is last resort LOL. Have you ever cleaned out the inside of any of your pipes yourself?
Ed
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there's a few pipe cleaning threads on here....I remember one where a member attached his pipe to his tractor wheel somehow, whist it was filled with rocks or nuts and bolts, and then had the tractor's rear wheel lifted off the ground, put it in gear, and let it spin for a little while.
I myself don't get into cleaning the inside of pipes...usually by that time, the outside is looking a bit faded, or has a few dings/dents...so I'll just buy a new one. :mrgreen:
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there's a few pipe cleaning threads on here....I remember one where a member attached his pipe to his tractor wheel somehow, whist it was filled with rocks or nuts and bolts, and then had the tractor's rear wheel lifted off the ground, put it in gear, and let it spin for a little while.
I myself don't get into cleaning the inside of pipes...usually by that time, the outside is looking a bit faded, or has a few dings/dents...so I'll just buy a new one. :mrgreen:
That is hilarious. :-D I did read something like that somewhere. I will report on the outcome of my chosen method.
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here it is...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,13481.msg108753.html#msg108753
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here it is...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,13481.msg108753.html#msg108753
That...is hilarious. I think I am still too young and inexperienced to try something like that. :-D
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Hey guys! So I finally got around to tackling the linkage unitrak arm. Looks like there is a rather large amount of wear where the rear shock bolts up. Seems to be from a previously worn bearing. I know the seals wont seal perfect, but is this something major to worry about? Will I just end up replacing the bearing every 6 months or so?
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20160124_220335_zpsrmhksdcz.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20160124_220342_zpsbk9nf8yz.jpg)
Ed
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your pics aren't showing Ed.
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your pics aren't showing Ed.
Not sure what happened there, are they working now? I modified the post.
Ed
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yup, they're showing now.
you'll have to wait and see once it's together...and check to see if it binds up at all. It shouldn't, but check for resistance once you get it all back together.
Upper and lower shock bearings never last that long anyways....they're so small, and take an extreme amount of punishment.
The best thing(s) you can do are...remove the shock/linkage every once and awhile and re-grease it...keep pressure washing to a minimal around the linkage and anywhere where there's a bearing...and try not to use soaps and degreasers when you wash it...because they will find their way in there, and break down the grease.
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yup, they're showing now.
you'll have to wait and see once it's together...and check to see if it binds up at all. It shouldn't, but check for resistance once you get it all back together.
Upper and lower shock bearings never last that long anyways....they're so small, and take an extreme amount of punishment.
The best thing(s) you can do are...remove the shock/linkage every once and awhile and re-grease it...keep pressure washing to a minimal around the linkage and anywhere where there's a bearing...and try not to use soaps and degreasers when you wash it...because they will find their way in there, and break down the grease.
Thanks for the advice Foxx. I will check it out once I have it together.
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good job on the wheel, that looks realy nice,
I found the best way to cleen a pipe is with a big LPG burner, the type they use for weed burning.
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good job on the wheel, that looks realy nice,
I found the best way to cleen a pipe is with a big LPG burner, the type they use for weed burning.
Thanks SOHC, yea I am still waiting to get it trued. Can't wait to get that done because then I can finish up the front wheel completely. Thanks for the advice, but decided to leave the inside of the pipe, doesn't seem too bad and don't have any burners at my disposal. All my other plans failed, so just gave it a good pressure wash to get most dirt out from standing. About half way with cleaning the outside. Will post some before and after photos when I'm done.
Ed
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Hi everyone. Hope you all had a good weekend. I finally finished the wheel. Got it trued and put the new tyre on this weekend, with the help of my 14 month old boy :lol:
There's a pic of the wheel completed.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20160206_120859_zpsamupclel.jpg)
And heres a pic of things to come. Still doesn't look like much but there is quite a lot of things waiting to be bolted on. Just waiting to finish the engine.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20160206_132438_zpsx2vgm8fp.jpg)
I am currently looking at wrapping things up with the engine. I took the pin and bearing out of the piston and the pin seems to have a good amount of wear, which means I have to replace it. I can feel a ridge with my finger nail. So will replace those and get a new piston and rings. Will try and get Wossner.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/20160206_164650_zpsc5zzznji.jpg)
I need some advice on my water pump oil seal. It is very worn. I would like to replace it without splitting the cases. Is there any way to do replace the seal without splitting the cases?
Ed
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Does anybody have an opinion on the waterpup seal? I was thinking if drilling a very small shadow hole in the seal an use u pick to remove it. Will that work?
Ed
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that'll work, as long as you're not planning on re-using it. :-)
I use a very small set of needle nose pliers.
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that'll work, as long as you're not planning on re-using it. :-)
I use a very small set of needle nose pliers.
Excellent thanks Fox! Is there no other seal behind it that I can damage or anything else?
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I go slow and easy....
here's a breakdown....
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac152/foxx4afoxx2/1999kx250l1us_e1431_zpsamfdc29k.gif) (http://s895.photobucket.com/user/foxx4afoxx2/media/1999kx250l1us_e1431_zpsamfdc29k.gif.html)
what I circled is where you'll be...
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac152/foxx4afoxx2/ba44cd61-d088-4531-bb1f-cf37eb52ae78_zpsyqtggzlu.png) (http://s895.photobucket.com/user/foxx4afoxx2/media/ba44cd61-d088-4531-bb1f-cf37eb52ae78_zpsyqtggzlu.png.html)
you can find vids on youtube that show how it's done...here's one, not the greatest, but you can get an idea...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XapuSwbkU2w
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Thanks Fox. I am not going to take the second cover off. I am going to try and do it from the outside. I only need to replace the outside seal (hopefully) by the looks of it, it's in bad shape and don't want it to maybe get a leak and start wearing on the inner seal. There was no coolant in the oil, so I will leave that till a later stage when I can rebuild the bottom end.
I should be getting a Wossner piston kit for it soon, then the motor will be ready to go back together. I can't seem to get a hold of anyone that does deglazing of cylinders around here. I might buy a flex hone and do it myself, but do you think it's crucial? Will I have to take the KIPS system appart again if I want it done?
Thanks
Ed
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I should be getting a Wossner piston kit for it soon, then the motor will be ready to go back together. I can't seem to get a hold of anyone that does deglazing of cylinders around here. I might buy a flex hone and do it myself, but do you think it's crucial? Will I have to take the KIPS system appart again if I want it done?
Thanks
Ed
the problem with that is, you might not have the proper cylinder to piston clearances after honing it out...then you'll just be throwing a new piston into a cylinder that could very well be out of spec, and your ring end gap won't be correct, not good. There is a very slim chance you might get lucky, and have .005 clearance, but not likely. That's not to say it won't run...but it certainly won't be at it's peak performance either.
When a plating company does a re-plate, they require a piston that you're gonna use, so that they can set the tolerances to the correct spec with that piston.
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I see. Thanks Fox. I didn't know this, so good thing you told me. Will it be safe for now to just get the piston kit, install it and leave it at that? Thaks for the help.
Ed
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was the old piston a cast piston?...if yes, you won't be able to just throw a Wossner in it, because they're forged, and require a greater tolerance over a cast piston...and it'll seize up tight once the piston gets hot and expands...probably less than 5 minutes.
At this point, you'll either need to go with another cast piston...I think Pro-X makes over-sized cast pistons in 1/2mm increments(if needed)......or, send the cylinder out to be re-plated, and fitted to the correct tolerance for a forged Wossner.
Do you still have the old piston?
You need to find out what the cylinder bore measures right now, before going any further.
If it were me, I would send out the cylinder, and have it re-plated, and set up for a Wossner...that way you'll know it's all set, and good to go.
I know you're on a budget, and probably didn't want to hear any of this...so you'll have to decide which way you want to go with it.
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It's a lot less simple than I thought. I appreciate the help Fox. Doing all that will set me back a good couple of months on the build. Is using the old piston and rings an option for now and just replace small en bearing and pin? I can show you photos of the piston, but I will have to wait till we move at the end of the month as I have packed it all away. I also have no idea if it is forged or cast as of yet.
Ed
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there's a chance you could use the old piston yes....although I don't recommend it, and would rather not see you go that route.
Will definitely need a pic of it to see if it's cast or forged.
I'd at the least try to get a set of rings for it too, along with small end bearing and pin, if you end up going that route...that will help keep things "tighter", and help prevent/reduce piston slap.
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Ok cool. As soon as I can I will show you photos of the piston. I would like to replace it to have that bit of peace of mind. Thanks Fox.
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I would like to replace it to have that bit of peace of mind.
that's my point...no sense putting all this time into it, to have an unfortunate failure. :wink:
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Hey Foxx. It's been a while. Had a really rough past couple of months with moving. The KX project is pretty much on hold. After searching my butt off to find where I've put my piston, and after panicing etc, I finally found it in the most obvious place. 'doh.
Here are some pics. Is it safe to say it is a forged piston?
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/IMG_5229_zpse7bjyxij.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/IMG_5230_zpspobxccdr.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/IMG_5233_zpsmrg2icuw.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/IMG_5234_zpsjtnyugqw.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/IMG_5239_zpsxogpom84.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/IMG_5241_zpsmsvpcez0.jpg)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p720/ecdeyzel/Kawasaki%20KX250%20Rebuild/IMG_5244_zpslw890byp.jpg)
Hope you're doing well.
Ed
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Is it safe to say it is a forged piston?
Hope you're doing well.
Ed
that looks like a stock Kawie cast piston...not forged.
I've been do'in good, thanks for asking....been very busy with work...through the month of May I was doing 5 11 hour days a week, money was nice, but doesn't leave much time for any fun activities after work. I'm now back on 4 11 hour days, so I get Fri, Sat, Sun off 8-).
Good to hear from ya!...hopefully you can get back to work on the bike soon. :-)
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Umm, I totally meant to say cast. :-D Thanks Foxx. I measured the piston just above the bottom of the skirt where the shop manual indicates and it measured at 66.3mm on my vernier (unfortunately the only good measuring tool I own). Soo it seems to be stock to me. Will I be safe if I order a stock spec ProX piston kit?
Are the score marks on the side the results of piston slap?
Busy is good, but five 11 hour work days is next level! HAHA! Good to hear you are well compensated. You should go rip up some tracks every Friday, Saturday and Sunday morning just to even things out. 8-)
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you should check what the cylinder bore measures, high and low....and try to determine what your current piston to cylinder wall clearances are, along with your current ring end gap, before buying a top end kit, just yet.
I know this a budget build, but if the clearances are too great, there's a chance you may have to re-plate the cylinder....if you can't get a correct size from ProX...though I'm pretty sure ProX go in 1/2mm increments, so there's also chance you may "not" have to do anything with the cylinder.
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you should check what the cylinder bore measures, high and low....and try to determine what your current piston to cylinder wall clearances are, along with your current ring end gap, before buying a top end kit, just yet.
I know this a budget build, but if the clearances are too great, there's a chance you may have to re-plate the cylinder....if you can't get a correct size from ProX...though I'm pretty sure ProX go in 1/2mm increments, so there's also chance you may "not" have to do anything with the cylinder.
Haha, I think the term "budget build" can officially be used very loosely for my beloved KX. :-P Although budget means different things to different people. For me I wanted to get it rebuilt quickly, but realised I have worked too hard on it to rush the rest and would rather do it properly (or as properly as my wallet will allow for now).
I found a shop that will do the measuring for me. I have a set of feeler gauges at home that I will measure the ring end gap with. I will keep you posted once I have the needed info.