KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: dinkyguitar on April 15, 2014, 02:31:03 PM
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Well, got her on Saturday and I started taking her apart.
I ordered a service manually and hopefully I can get all the parts I need to finish. The motor has compression and does turn over freely. My cousin said it was running strong before he had issues getting it in 2rd, them later problems getting it in neutral. I kicked it over with the plug out and it does have spark so technically it should start when I'm done.
I'm going to make a list of all the parts that I need before I start buying anything just to make sure I can get them.
So far, I'll need a water pump cover since a piece of the lower front of the cover where the mounting screw goes in is missing. Looks like something hit it. I might try using aluminoid welding sticks and try to build up that area so the screw can sit nice and flat to seal everything.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140415_194005_zpsb3d023d9.jpg)
The stator looks like it has some type of oxidation that should clean off.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140415_194028_zps6d683852.jpg)
Supposedly the carb was rebuild. It looks clean for sitting in shed for 8 years.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140415_201452_zps9898dd2c.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140415_203359_zps3c8aff4f.jpg)
And this is what happens when a bike sits for so long...a family of mice decide to move in....found 4 dead inside. It was not pretty.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140415_195520_zps6302757f.jpg)
Another pic:
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140415_194108_zps5ddbbb51.jpg)
I was able to see inside the cylinder looking through the exhaust port and it looks good so far. I can see little vertical wear lines on the piston. The top of the piston looks normal too.
I was surprised that I saw the cross hatching on the cylinder. Would this mean it had a top end job done? Or should you see cross hatching normally?
Anyway, it might be awhile before it's all put together and running. With 3 kids, finding time might be a challenge.
dinky,
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the cross hatching says, that the cylinder and piston could not have many hours on it since last rebuild... the bike has a good restoration base... your only real problem is the gear change... try to find a good used ´87 transmission with all 3 forks , replace the old snaprings and the engine is ready... :wink:
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I'd like to see the cylinder with the head off...
Cross hatching is a good sign but it depends on what it all looks like.
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My thoughts exactly on those changes in the trans motopunk.
And once I pull the motor out I'll definitely see what the rest of the cylinder looks like sandblaster.
One question:
If the cylinder turns out to be ok, I'll still change the piston & rings. But how to you prep the cylinder?
dinky?
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So far, I'll need a water pump cover since a piece of the lower front of the cover where the mounting screw goes in is missing. Looks like something hit it. I might try using aluminoid welding sticks and try to build up that area so the screw can sit nice and flat to seal everything.
here's a water pump cover if you're interested....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Kawasaki-KX250-water-pump-impeller-cover-87-KX-250-/200917426312?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec79ca088&vxp=mtr
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Good find Foxx4Beaver!
I know there're out there...just a matter of time before I buy one.
My flywheel puller is shipped and so is my service manual.
Today I'm hoping to test my stator and coil just to make sure they are in order.
dinky,
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all kinds of new goodies!...
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=nos+1987+kawasaki+kx250&rt=nc
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That's a Goldmine of parts there Foxx. I've had my 87 for a year and a half and have never seen that many NOS parts in search.
The intake boot is a real rare one.
Dinky.... Your gonna love it.
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That's a Goldmine of parts there Foxx. I've had my 87 for a year and a half and have never seen that many NOS parts in search.
The intake boot is a real rare one.
Dinky.... Your gonna love it.
this guy's got some goodies too, I've bought from him before...search his store...he's got TONS of nos stuff for various bikes.
http://stores.ebay.com/Motorcycle-NOS-Parts/_i.html?_nkw=+87+kawasaki+kx250&submit=Search&_sid=156402798
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The intake boot is a real rare one.
I have to admit...I was eye'ing that too...
Well, cleaned the airbox assemble and the carb, and took 1 radiator off. I think I might baking soda blast it before final assemble.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140416_2128581_zpscaadb655.jpg)
No more mice in the air box....glad I clean that out.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140416_2113281_zps780ebdfb.jpg)
Not sure if I've have time tomorrow though :( . I mean I do have a wife and 3 kids that need attention every now and then :).
dinky,
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One question:
If the cylinder turns out to be ok, I'll still change the piston & rings. But how to you prep the cylinder?
dinky?
For me it depends on if it is Nikasil plated or sleeved.
If it is plated, I mic it to be sure it is in spec, then I use WD-40 and some Scotch Brite and run it diagonally till it's good and clean.
If it's sleeved I mic it to be sure it's in spec, then I run a 340 grit ball hone, spraying it liberally with auto trans fluid so that I make a nice diagonal cross hatch, then clean and re-inspect for problems as a ball hone will often make slight scoring show up.
In both cases I disassemble and clean my exhaust valves and replace any seals or o-rings.
It is also a good idea to lap your cylinder, cases, and head to insure a perfect fit upon re-assembly.
I would also take a close look at your cylinder stud condition.
Then, when I am really happy with the results... I would thoroughly clean the whole assembly in hot water with Dawn soap..
That's the basics of what I do...
PS. This site is way better then that other lame site you posted on :-D
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Thanks Sandblaster,
How do you lap the cylinder and other parts?
dinky,
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For now, let's just say that this stuff is awesome...
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=709)
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For now, let's just say that this stuff is awesome...
I'll 2nd that!...
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac152/foxx4afoxx2/ts_zpsec9453d6.jpg) (http://s895.photobucket.com/user/foxx4afoxx2/media/ts_zpsec9453d6.jpg.html)
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Progress has been slow...but here's what she looks like now.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140420_083431_zps4669d7bc.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140420_0833401_zps633ee625.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140420_083402_zpsb28e6488.jpg)
The magneto was pretty good shape...It had some surface rust on the out side and inside. I submerged it in evapo-rust and all the rust is gone.
I did see a thin layer of plastic on the magnet which is flaking off but I think it should be good.
Today I took the clutch cover off and was hoping for the worst but I got a surprise...It looks like a new clutch???? There's no ridges on the barrel at all. And the clutch plates aren't fused together. I thought there was something wrong with the clutch because when I pulled the clutch in, the bike was still in gear. Now I'm not sure if it's just the trans since my other problem was that I couldn't get it in neutral and the prior owner skipped 2nd when used to ride it years ago.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140422_201933_zps463a337f.jpg)
dinky,
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You may have something as simple as a broken transmission snap ring.
You will need to disassemble a bit more to know for sure.
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nice I love old school builds keep us informed on how everything goes
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You may have something as simple as a broken transmission snap ring.
You will need to disassemble a bit more to know for sure.
Yeah, I'm planning on taking everything apart. I'm working on it in my spare time.
Engine wise, I don't think a lot is needed....but frame wise is another story.
For instance, yesterday I was spinning the back tire to see if it was true, and sure enough I found an area on the rim, almost where the bead lock thing is, where the rim lip is bend. It doesn't seem like much since the back tire still holds air, but I'm sort of a perfectionist so it bothers me.
And then 2 days ago when I was measuring the ignition coil I was 1 ohm low of being within spec's. So I might have to replace that as well. The good news is, there's plenty available....the bad news is, it's just another thing I have to replace and spend money on.
dinky,
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I managed to remove the motor. Pressure washed the rolling frame and part of the motor.
Here's some before shots:
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_185638_zps2a9bf066.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_185628_zps683cc93a.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_185659_zps621c23c7.jpg)
And after:
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_204550_zps8c2e8be1.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_204540_zps67c68f91.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_204531_zps6210c6ac.jpg)
I have a feeling the top end was rebuild. Check out the cylinder:
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_205919_zpsfbfa7786.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_205909_zps355cfe94.jpg)
I don't feel any scratches in the cylinder, and you could see the cross hatchings.
The piston and head had carbon, but it came off easily. BTW, I looked up the numbers on the piston and it's a Wiseco std. bore.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_210021_zpsb5bfa627.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_210356_zpsa9ff678a.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_205930_zps5455f167.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140424_210711_zpsd2e62dc0.jpg)
That's it for now...
dinky,
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Another update...
So I finally split the case and found out what the trans problem was. The previous owner said he lost either 1st or 2nd gear (don't remember which one) so he decided to skip the gear and shift up. Well, the shift fork pin had broken which is why there was no 1st/2nd.
You would think he should have took it apart to look why this was happening...but no...he kept riding. Well, that pin eventually logged into a gear and broke 2 teeth off. There was also a missing circlip, and very loose/wobbly gear.
So I bought a used trans which was good considering it's an 87. I had to replace a questionable gear with one from my old trans.
I also bought a primary gear cause the teeth on mine were worn as well as the splines on the crank...which is why I needed another crankshaft.
Then I had my mechanic install the new connecting rod.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140517_210607_zps66f81d23.jpg)
Plus, he recommended honing cylinder.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140517_210703_zps29eba966.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140517_210824_zps00e91a80.jpg)
I then repaired one of my silencer brackets that was broken off with aluminoid weld rods.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140510_180010_zps1b1b005c.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140513_213201_zps96150390.jpg)
My mechanic also said only to replace the main bearings in the case. The other bearings usually don't need to be replaced unless you can see that they are bad...
Would you agree?
Anyway, I'm trying to raise more funds for putting the motor back, plus getting the frame back together with new bearings and odds and ends. I can honestly say this isn't a cheap hobby.....
dinky,
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Mains are a must.
I won't say you couldn't get away with riding with your other bearings but for the cost of replacing them all why not?
Your already there and you can prevent other problems from happening.
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I agree with Sandblaster. Plus if that snap ring turned to dust, fragments of teeth, or shift fork rod particles went through those bearings then are beat up junk that will cause more damage in the future. Just because they "look" fine to the naked eye doesn't mean they are good.
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The 87's aren't the most economical bikes to work on for sure. I was lucky to buy mine for $600 from a thumper talk guy who impressed me as genuine. I cleaned the entire fuel system and rode it for 6 months. Fortunately I had no motor problems and it still runs better than it did when I bought it.
Then.. Brake rotors, sprockets, sub frame, tires and a few other wear items. Found an oem pipe for 120 bucks then a few months later bought a PC platinum for 140. Brake rotors are pricey, I paid 45 for a good used one. Refitted a powercore II from a 2002 Suzuki with a little cut and weld for 37 bucks. And on and on it goes as with any bike.
But the kicker is, IMHO, you'll have one of, if not, the most grunty, responsive 250 cc 2 stroke motors out there. I ride in the woods with the kids with the 450f's and they never have to wait for me.
Stick with it and you'll enjoy the results.
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Thanks guys...
Progress will be slow, but eventually it will be done.
The 85's, 86 & 87's models are the models I grew up with. I remember moving at 11 to a neighborhood all with woods. There were no neighbors behind my house....just woods. So I saw dirt bikes, 3 wheelier's (yup, just gave away my age) and stuff. Mom never let me get a dirtbike :-( , but I drove everyone else's :-D , and that's were I got some riding experience....
I eventually got a moped, 89 CR250, KLR 250, FZR 600, but got rid of them. Wish I held onto something. I find myself getting rid of this I later want again...So now with 3 kids I finally got the opportunity (my wife being the biggest hurdle) to have another dirt bike for free, a la my cousin.
Now all I have to do is throw away my savings and retirement fund to get it running again :-D.
dinky,
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Here's an update....getting closer :-D
I want to finish the frame somewhat so I can put the motor in and start it.
I have all new bearings for the entire motor, new rod, piston, cylinder honed etc.
I know it will be a pain changing all those bearings and pressing to 2 case half's together so any suggestions would be appreciated.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140624_213523_zps5a4119f3.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140701_203829_zps95b4b371.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/20140701_211841_zpsf0eea22f.jpg)
dinky,
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How did u go Dinky u get ur cases back together?
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Chassis is looking great!
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Chassis is looking great!
Thanks...hope it lasts...it's not power coated.
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How did u go Dinky u get ur cases back together?
Haven't touched the motor yet, but I do have all the bearings and seals.
I was thinking to use heat and the freezer to get the cases together.
The manual I have says to put the case in the oven at 200 deg. or so to get the bearings in.
dinky,
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I usually just freeze the bearings for a few hours and they drop right in the case halves. Never had to use heat.
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All new to me i havnt done it yet but my 87 will need cases split at Christmas time wanting to do it myself so i following this thread.
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So I finally started putting the bottom end together.
I took all the bearings and bushings on both cases and stuck them in the freezer.
I then took a hot air gun and started heating the case where the bearings would go and was able to install them.
The crank seals went in fine (those I stuck in the freezer also). 1 I had to persuade using a socket and hand pressure. I kept checking the other side to make sure they were all seated properly against the ridge.
1 main bearing dropped in while the other needed some tapping with an hammer with the old bearing stacked on top. I kind of expected this since 1 bearing is always stuck to the crank when you remove the crank, while the other remains in the case.
There's 2 bushing for the trans that were also installed. Both needed a little persuasion but I got them installed.
After that, I mocked up the trans with all new cerclips and made sure I could turn the shift drum through all the gears.
1 thing that pissed me off was, there's a c clip on the trans that holds the bearing by 1st gear. I had to spread the clip pretty far to install it and eventually stretched it. I couldn't install it without this happening. And it's because when you install the clip using the c clip pliers the clip edges get in the way. It ovals the c clip and the edges of the clip hit the shaft. I'm not sure if I should file the edges of the c clip.
On the old c clip, the edges are rounded a little and you don't have to open the c clip as much to install.
The other thing that has me confused is, with both crankcase halves together laying upright, I can spin the trans through all the gears and get it in neutral. But the minute to tilt the motor, the gears bind on each other.
Is this normal? The only other thing I can think of is that my 4th & 5th gear shift forks are reversed, but I'll check that again tonight.
Not much to see here, but this is the cases with new bearings and bushings.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/Crankcases_zps3b675164.jpg)
dinky,
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Scroll down about half way...
You can tighten your C clips right up...
It's a Motorrad thing :lol:
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=661 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=661)
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Thanks for that link...
And here's the clip I'm talking about.....and that's the edge causing the problem. I haven't screwed the cases together since I'm still checking the trans works, so I can take it apart. (picture taken was when I was disassembling the motor)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/snapring_zps2e20cbf8.jpg)
I'm also freezing my crank to install it....
Question on whether this will work for getting the crank in, and screw both case halves together.
1. Freeze the crank.
2. Apply yamabond to one side of the crankcase half.
3. Heat the other half of the case in the oven.
4. Heat the main bearing on the other crankcase with a hot air gun.
5. Quickly get the crank and drop it into the case.
6. Get the other case from the oven and hopefully close both cases.
I'm not sure how yamabond will hold up to 1 case being clod while the other hot. I'd imaging just as long as you don't exceed 200 deg f., you should be OK. You might not even need to heat the case to 200.
When I used my hot air gun, my case only got to 130 deg f.
dinky,
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So I was able to get my crank in, and seal the cases following my steps.
It was very nerve racking making sure I had everything ready.
1 case half was on the barbecue heating up while the crank was in the freezer. I had the case heated to about 170f.
Then I had to lay a bead of sealer on the other half. After that, heat the bearing with my heat gun, run to the freezer, get the crank, and nervously, slam it in. Then run and get the other case off the grill, position it and it dropped in. I gave the back end of the case a slam with my hand to seat the 1/16" gap.
While it was cooling, I hand tightened the case screws, then followed by little turns of the screws to evenly seat the cases.
After I calmed down, I looked it over and everything seems OK.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/together2_zpsc7c5c310.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/together1_zpsdacd4749.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/together3_zpsbd8cc676.jpg)
I read somewhere that you shouldn't put to much yamabond on, and I was pleasantly surprised after tightening the screws it looks like I used just enough.
And here's the next project I have to tackle. Cutting that sprocket bushing shorter. They don't make that part anymore, but I was able to find a thread where someone listed this part as an exact fit, but you need to make it shorter....
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/together4_zpsac038d75.jpg)
It should all down hill from here....hopefully anyway.
dinky,
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well done dinky top job
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Now that's good news. But what was the problem with the gears jamming up when you tilted the engine?
My primary drive shaft leaks a (very) little and the collar is slightly grooved. I remember reading that same post somewhere.
Could you please post the part # for the spacer you bought, or the year bike it was for ?
If you have a machine shop nearby they could trim it up pretty easily.
Your gonna love this bike..
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Now that's good news. But what was the problem with the gears jamming up when you tilted the engine?
My primary drive shaft leaks a (very) little and the collar is slightly grooved. I remember reading that same post somewhere.
Could you please post the part # for the spacer you bought, or the year bike it was for ?
If you have a machine shop nearby they could trim it up pretty easily.
Your gonna love this bike..
I think the problem might have been because the cases were not screwed together. I just tilted the case so there might have been a slight gap between the cases.
Now that I got the cases together I think it should be OK. I looked over the gears several times, and made sure the 2 clutch forks were in the correct order. Plus I have all new cerclips. It seems to be shifting good now.
So the collar part number is 92152-0150. It's a 30x25x13.2 from partzilla for 06-12 KX & KLX 450's. The stock collar is 30x25x9 so it needs to be cut down.
This is how I did mine. I slipped the collar on a 1" drill drum sander and used grinder. I actually used a "thin" cutoff wheel. Spin the drill and grinder in opposite directions and stop several times to cool it down otherwise you'll melt the rubber. Scribe a line and hold the grinder steady. Put a level on the blade to get an idea of how you should hold it.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/CollarDrill_zpsa89b431c.jpg)
Cut it "a little" thicker than you need and shave it down. When you start shaving it down, use the drum sander with the collar to hold so your hands don't get hot. Also, the collar is made of hard steel so it will take time to get it right.
Also, as far as how much to take off, with the stock collar is had about a 2mm space, so my collar wound up being about 9.5 to 10mm thick. It varied in thickness because it had a slight wobble when I was cutting it. Plus grinding it by had is very hard to get accurate.
I think as long as the collar fits with the sprocket and cerclip, you should be OK. It's rotating with the bearing and sprocket anyway, so the assembly should be forgiving as far as wear.
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Love how you did this.
I have to do stuff like this all the time.
I'm glad I am not alone... :lol:
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Thanks dinky, for your time and info. It's now on my to do list.
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Motor is finally assembled! Every bolt cleaned, new gaskets, all new bushing, bearings, new rod, & piston.
I hope she starts :roll:
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/motor1_zps59354f38.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/motor3_zps1db97f07.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/motor2_zpsd8e1648e.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/motor4_zpsef5bb3e1.jpg)
Here's my power valves before,
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/powervalesdirty_zps3057efc2.jpg)
And after cleaning...soaked in gasoline.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/powervalvesclean_zps6e72c8ab.jpg)
That's also the grease I used for the power valve gears, and on seals and parts that operate by high temps such as around clutch and exhaust. It's that high temp moly grease.
My next steps will be to install it in the bike, make the final connections and see if she starts.
My only concern is that I don't have a place to ride her yet.
Can I break in the motor just putting around the yard?
dinky,
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You could do your heat cycles no problem but to finish the job I would think you would need it under load..
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My manual doesn't really say how to break a motor....nor do I have any experience.
I remember in high school my friend had dirt bikes and he never broke them in...In fact he always used to say "break a motor in hard and it will last forever"....
What is the preferred way to break a motor in?
dinky,
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I use a very similar method to this:
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=769&p=2866&hilit=engine+break+in#p2866 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=769&p=2866&hilit=engine+break+in#p2866)
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Engine looks great Dinky well done.
The power Valves one is alloy one is steal?
Do we run any specific oil or mix on the run in cycle I have purchased stock needle and jets?
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Engine looks great Dinky well done.
The power Valves one is alloy one is steal?
Yes, I noticed that too, they are made from different materials. Not sure why... :?
When you install the power valves the manual says the valves will have "dots" on top of the gears to align with the rack but mine didn't have any.
On the valve with the bigger gear, one of the teeth are ground lower. On the other valve if you look closely the top of the gears are beveled....one is beveled slightly more than all the others. This is what I used as an alignment mark to the rack. Not sure if it's right, but once installed the valves are open when the rack is fully out.
Also both alignment marks are straight in line with the edge of the power valve cut out.
This area:
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/powervalvesclean2_zpsfa5e69b1.jpg)
dinky,
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Very nice job. Looks brand new :D
As far as power valves go... If they are closed with the rod all the way in and open with the rod all the way out then it is set up properly.
I do break in a little different than SB. I do a half dozen heat cycles. Retorque head and cylinder bolts between heat cycles. Then for the first 15-30 minutes on the first ride I play in first gear at various rpms. After that it's balls out for 10 minutes and let it cool down completely. Every ride after that I ride like I normally do. Been doing it that way for 20 years and have never had a problem.
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Very nice job. Looks brand new :D
As far as power valves go... If they are closed with the rod all the way in and open with the rod all the way out then it is set up properly.
I do break in a little different than SB. I do a half dozen heat cycles. Retorque head and cylinder bolts between heat cycles. Then for the first 15-30 minutes on the first ride I play in first gear at various rpms. After that it's balls out for 10 minutes and let it cool down completely. Every ride after that I ride like I normally do. Been doing it that way for 20 years and have never had a problem.
As far as I know, if you pull the rod out both should be open, and you should see a smooth transition between the jug through the power valve opening and out the exhaust. They also open at different rates. So on mine, if memory serves me right, looking through the exhaust the left power valve will open first followed by the right and then both fully open.
Thanks for the advice on the break in.....I'm currently trying to find a way to take the bike somewhere for break in. My yards on big enough ride....
Any northern NJ riders out there?
dinky,
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Thats correct Tom u have set them up correctly I also asked that question somewhere on here and the 87 doesnt have the dots. the beveled teeth are our indicator and the bigger gear makes that valve open slower. Great job u can come break it in on my property in Australia hehe
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Great job u can come break it in on my property in Australia hehe
Always wanted to visit Australia :-D.
dinky,
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Progress today...
I got the motor in, and made a kickstand....still needs some tweeking to fit right.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/motorin2_zps3f30f01e.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/motorin1_zps0a70542c.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/kickstand_zpsd9514da8.jpg)
dinky,
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Lookin killer man!! Keep us posted with you progress!
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It's purdy.
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I've seen all alloy sets of valves and all steel sets as well.
I think someone broke a valve in the past and replaced it.
In 1987 kx 500's and 250's you start to see the use of both alloy and steel valves sets that year (86 are all alloy). They also used both timing marks that year as well ( short gear tooth and the stamped dot).
When you would have ordered a nos valve the replacement would have been an alloy valve. I've never come across a nos steel replacement valve.
My guess is that it originally had a set of steel valves in the motor.
Beautiful bike by the way.
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Another update...
Here's my home made kickstand....I later changed to a heavier spring and it's perfect. That satisfied feeling you get after you made something and it came out exactly how you wanted it.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/kickstand1_zpsba27cea2.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/kickstand2_zpsc0f47a38.jpg)
More pic's.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/finished1_zps25794960.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/motorfinished1_zps7ace79f6.jpg)
A little set back that I has was a leaky sprocket.
It was strange that it started leaking after having oil in it for over a week. It wound up being that o ring between the sprocket spacer. I didn't install one, but now I do.
And the grand finale was that I got to start it :-D :-D :-D
After months of putting her together I gassed her up and she started on the 3rd kick :-D . Kind of loud with any baffle material.
I'm happy she started....and with a used CDI I bought $40....That was a hard to find part and I just wanted another one in case mine didn't work. Really was the only part I didn't have a duplicate of. Everything else I could find.
So far I've done 2 heat cycles...more tomorrow.
Oh, and another set back was that my left radiator is leaking :cry: down on the bottom. Only leaks after it has a little pressure. I'll have to see if I can fix it.
Maybe I'll post a video of it running tomorrow.
Very happy I got her running.
dinky,
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Great Dinky yeah post a vid I wana see 8-)
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another set back was that my left radiator is leaking :cry: down on the bottom. Only leaks after it has a little pressure. I'll have to see if I can fix it.
I've used the 2 part liquid epoxy J.B. Weld, not the 2 part putty, on a very small hole on my 500 due to the radiator screen wearing through...this was 2 years ago, and it's still holding strong.
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I've used the 2 part liquid epoxy J.B. Weld, not the 2 part putty, on a very small hole on my 500 due to the radiator screen wearing through...this was 2 years ago, and it's still holding strong.
Thanks for the tip...
dinky,
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took me a little while to find it so I could post a pic...but this is what I used...
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac152/foxx4afoxx2/0907140815_zpseb08ca5b.jpg) (http://s895.photobucket.com/user/foxx4afoxx2/media/0907140815_zpseb08ca5b.jpg.html)
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Got it!
I think the trickiest part will be finding exactly where the leaky is....Probably have to use compressed air.
dinky,
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I have also used JB Weld for Aluminum with good success. It's a little more runny so if you need to get between the fins just tilt the rad and let gravity do the work instead of trying to poke at it with a pick. Good job on the kickstand too.
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I have also used JB Weld for Aluminum with good success. It's a little more runny so if you need to get between the fins just tilt the rad and let gravity do the work instead of trying to poke at it with a pick. Good job on the kickstand too.
Haven't seen that drip I had, but I'm going to keep an eye on it...
Here's a video of the bike running. I was surprised how hard it was to kick it over with that compression...my falling apart sneakers didn't help either.
There's no packing in that baffle either, not sure where it all went, but it's poping out the exhaust....
I'm also running Amsoil Interceptor in 93 octane.
I'll have to find the trick to starting her....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTExWp9Yivs&feature=youtu.be
dinky,
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Hi,
Just some progress....
New Warp 9 rear rim and RAD SS spokes....have all the parts for the front rim. Also aaded new grips, radiators, hoses, spark arrestor and seat cover.
I got it now to where she starts first kick :-D. Last year it was a nightmare trying to start her. The kick start lever helped as well as knowing how to start 2 stokes.
Anyway, got more parts to put on.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/New%20Pic2_zpsycxh4muy.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/kezard/New%20Pic1_zpseqg6pttf.jpg)
Had a little oil leak underneath. Not sure where it was coming from. Kind of pissed since everything is brand new and it didn't leak all last year and this year.
Now I start it twice this week after sitting for 2 months and it has a little leak.....I re-torqued the clutch cover as well as the engine case bolts....hope that does the trick...I hate leaks :x
dinky,
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shes looking nice and Im glad u got the starting problems fixed do u have some side guards to put on too?
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Yep...I have all the plastics.
Been waiting till I sort all the things out before I install them.
dinky,
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Man , you did an awesome job, I remember you first posting about your bike and looking for parts. I lost my nd4speed password so I need to post stuff here again. Good work man.
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Man , you did an awesome job, I remember you first posting about your bike and looking for parts. I lost my nd4speed password so I need to post stuff here again. Good work man.
Thanks,
Yep, It's been a year already since I got her.
I have all the parts to finish her...
I'm currently lacing my front wheel and then I'll put on my new tire.
dinky,