KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: Penyoker on August 10, 2013, 12:30:47 PM
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Hi guys n gals, I've been reading this forum realising this is the best lace for me to learn more about dirt bikes and my kx250 in particular. So I have joined.
Recently I was passed down an 01 kx250 which by all reports is not the best bike to begin with but it's now mine and I'm not getting rid of her!!
I am new to dirt bikes and need some assistance to get her running.
She's a clean bike and knowing my uncle, it would have been well looked after.
I could not get her to start up, so have replaced the plug, and gapped it myself to mimik the old gap, taken the carb off not apart to clean but looked v clean, and put new fuel in with a ratio of 40:1, with a high grade 2 stroke oil.
She won't start..... I'm kicking and kicking and it doesn't sound like its close to firing but as I said, I know my uncle to good care of it before he passed, and I'm sure it's something simple.
Please can someone give me some pointers?
I've bought a compression tester, but yet to test as unsure of the right method being a complete newbie. I'm good with my hands and would like to become competent in tuning repairing and maintaining my own bike rather than taking her to a mechanic with every issue.
From you gurus, I am after your wisdom.
PLEASE HELP!
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Are you getting spark? Take the plug out, hook it up to the wire and hold it to the cylinder head to give it a good ground then kick it over...
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Thanks for that charlie500, dark here in oz now so will try that in the morning...
So I am unscrewing the plug, keeping it connected and placing the bottom(with the gap) to the cylinder head to ground the plug and kicking... What am I looking for when I kick it, I'm guessing the click of the spark/flash??
I can only apologise to all reading this thinking I'm asking redo cultus questions and for my neivity but I did join here to learn :oops:
Thanks all.
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I am hoping to spend most of the day on the bike tomorrow, so as well as checking to see if I have a spark, if anyone would be kind enough to give me a "beginners" list of things to look over, check, take apart, clean, etc I would be so appreciative.
I really want to nail this without having to give in to the mechanic although I'm happy to do so if I obviously have to.
Thanks all.
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Thanks for that charlie500, dark here in oz now so will try that in the morning...
So I am unscrewing the plug, keeping it connected and placing the bottom(with the gap) to the cylinder head to ground the plug and kicking... What am I looking for when I kick it, I'm guessing the click of the spark/flash??
I can only apologise to all reading this thinking I'm asking redo cultus questions and for my neivity but I did join here to learn :oops:
Thanks all.
yeah, it would be easier to unplug the spark plug, then un screw it from the cylinder head, then plug it back in. After doing so, hold the base of the plug in contact with the cylinder head so you can see the electrode. Kick it over, or have someone else kick it over so you can look at the plug. You should see sparks... If you don't get any sparks I would try replacing the boot. Its cheap and easy to do...
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If you still don't have spark you can take the cover off the fly wheel. It should be clean and dry in there... Sometimes water makes its way inside and causes rust which could ruin your electrical system.
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:x !!! - Ok, so I'm fast learning dirtbikes are complicated!!
I've taken the tank off and checked my spark as suggested and placing the plug on the crank case, no evident spark... Two things, firstly did it earth properly? Second, the plug doesn't 'snap' or 'click' onto the plug like a car plug does, it just slides up the boot with no real feeling of connection. If I force the boot further up the plug, it will go a further 5mm, feeling a little more 'connected' and secure. Is this normal? Is this just an old boot that u suggest I replace.
The boot goes straight to the coil with no option to disconnect... Do I buy the boot/coil set that's all in one?
When kicking and kicking, it makes a "put put" sound. Is that normal until the ignition/spark is fixed?
Thanks all
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I find that giving it a little flick of the gas at the end of the kick fires mine right up. If I don't do that then it is harder to start.
Barring an actual issue with the bike, if you've never kicked a bike over then your technique could be a factor. I'm just trying to start with the simplest things first.
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:x !!! - Ok, so I'm fast learning dirtbikes are complicated!!
I've taken the tank off and checked my spark as suggested and placing the plug on the crank case, no evident spark... Two things, firstly did it earth properly? Second, the plug doesn't 'snap' or 'click' onto the plug like a car plug does, it just slides up the boot with no real feeling of connection. If I force the boot further up the plug, it will go a further 5mm, feeling a little more 'connected' and secure. Is this normal? Is this just an old boot that u suggest I replace.
The boot goes straight to the coil with no option to disconnect... Do I buy the boot/coil set that's all in one?
When kicking and kicking, it makes a "put put" sound. Is that normal until the ignition/spark is fixed?
Thanks all
Ok, Its not that hard its just a little hard to explain on here. I'm no English teacher.... haha Well any way, when you check your spark you wanna make sure that you have a clean spark plug, not black and oily. The spark plug needs to be plugged into the wire coming from the coil. The opposite side of the plug needs to be in contact with the cylinder head. Then kick over the motor. You should be able to see a spark. You said that the plug isn't snapping in to the boot. It doesn't nesicarily need to snap BUT if it isn't making a good connection in there you will not get any spark. The spark plug boot just screws on to the wire. They are really easy and inexpensive to replace. Any local motorcycle shop should have one. I just replaced mine and it cost me 8 bucks. If you do replace it make sure the wire is clean before screwing the new boot on. (I just cut about a half inch off the wire before installing my new boot)
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Ok, unscrewed the boot, and cleaned it up, cutting 5 mm off the boot as i had said before, the plug could be forced up the boot 5 mm more, and hey presto, have a spark. 1 down, a thousand more to go!?!? ;-)
Turning on fuel tap, full choke as cold (obviously) and nothing....
I am unsure if fuel is getting to he carb although definitely coming through the petcock, I have read about putting the bike on its side with full throttle until fuel starts coming out.. From somewhere.. Where is the fuel supposed to come out of doing this?
I have also read and think could be an item to check, a stuck fuel float .. Is this something I should check and how do I find this and check it.
Or, am I heading in the wrong direction here?
Keen to nail the next step in getting her to fire!!!
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Also, when kicking it over I'm seeing a leak from the exhaust when it goes into wherever the exhaust goes into.. The dripping is only when I kick it, and it's dirty/oily looking fuel.... Is that bad?
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have you pulled the plug after kicking it to see if its wet? is it leaking where the pipe goes into the cylinder? if so ,you probably have excess fuel in the engine. are you turning your fuel switch off when not trying to start it. I would pull the pipe off, check it for fuel, and take the plug out and kick the crap out of it to clear the engine of excess fuel. then you could either put it back together and fire it up, or leave it apart over night to make sure it dries out good and fire it up tomorow. you are very close to getting it to fire.,if
Ok, unscrewed the boot, and cleaned it up, cutting 5 mm off the boot as i had said before, the plug could be forced up the boot 5 mm more, and hey presto, have a spark. 1 down, a thousand more to go!?!? ;-)
Turning on fuel tap, full choke as cold (obviously) and nothing....
I am unsure if fuel is getting to he carb although definitely coming through the petcock, I have read about putting the bike on its side with full throttle until fuel starts coming out.. From somewhere.. Where is the fuel supposed to come out of doing this?
I have also read and think could be an item to check, a stuck fuel float .. Is this something I should check and how do I find this and check it.
Or, am I heading in the wrong direction here?
Keen to nail the next step in getting her to fire!!!
Also, when kicking it over I'm seeing a leak from the exhaust when it goes into wherever the exhaust goes into.. The dripping is only when I kick it, and it's dirty/oily looking fuel.... Is that bad?
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Thanks turtle, ok I will take the pipe off (yes it's leaking where the pipe enters the cylinder where the springs hold it snug), (( and yes i e been turning fuel off once i e lost my enthusiasm and patience)) take the plug out and kick it to get rid of excess fuel... And replace... I have not been checking to see if the plug is wet after kicking.....
Perhaps I need some pointers re starting...
I've been giving it throttle when kicking her over, sometimes full throttle... Always choke on because not starting she's obviously cold... Is this why there is this excess fuel in the engine. Is this flooding the system??
I took out the carb, still connected and tapped it with a screwdriver handle to hopefully free the float if it was stuck, and noted fuel in the exit pipes so carb is getting fuel.. I also noticed the throttle cable entry point the l shaped metal tube the cable goes into has snapped at the thread... Meaning the cable is operating ok, but with a lot of abrasion... Something else that needs repairing.... How do I change the throttle cable. Do I need to remove the top of the carb to free it from the carb??
Please could u give me an idiots guide to starting her up(as I feel if anyone's the idiot here it's me :-(, and once I've kicked out the excess fuel and replaced exhaust and plug once dry, I'll run through your suggested steps..
Thanks for everyone's patience with my learning curve!!!
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Also replacing this l shaped pipe which I will try and buy this week...
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make sure the fuel is off and your plug boot is either covered or held out of the way so it doesnt ignite the fuel while kicking with the plug out.
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Aha!!!! That sounds like a bloody good tip!!! Thank u sir - for saving my bike from going up in flames!!!!!!!!
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Ok, I removed the crank case and the flywheel has a little surface rust? Is this an issue? It's dry, but the rust??
Also I've been told the spark should be loud and strong... It's not.. The spark I was so excited about gaining after trimming the boot and cleaning it up is weak, so much so it took me a while to confirm there was a spark...
Please help guys...
If there is any spark surely ground wires are ok?...
Can any kx250 owners give me advise on starting techniques so I know that what I'm doing is right! Pleeeaaaassseeee!!! ;-)
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that was my next question,is your stator and coils rusty?how bad is it? if it look like there might be rust on the fly wheel and coils you need to clean them up. take some 80 or 100 grit sand paper and clean up the inside of the fly wheel to get it nice and shiny. also clean up the out side metal part of the coils with the sand paper. then then spray it all out with electrical cleaner or blow it out real good with air. i had the exact same problem with my 87 K5, after i cleaned it up it runs like a champ.
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that was my next question,is your stator and coils rusty?how bad is it? if it look like there might be rust on the fly wheel and coils you need to clean them up. take some 80 or 100 grit sand paper and clean up the inside of the fly wheel to get it nice and shiny. also clean up the out side metal part of the coils with the sand paper. then then spray it all out with electrical cleaner or blow it out real good with air. i had the exact same problem with my 87 K5, after i cleaned it up it runs like a champ.
You will need a fly wheel puller to pull the fly wheel... Then clean it up as turdle said... this will probably fix your problem
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Thanks guys, am organising a fly wheel puller. Im taking it the puller takes the next part off once uv taken off the plastic crank case??!) The corrosion is actually only on the six steel bolt type circles on the outside of the (wait for it.. im learning the lingo) - magneto rotor that is visible when u unscrew the plastic crank cover, and rust not serious.. Either way, this is something that should be checked so I will once I get the puller... Will I find the stator and coil directly being the magneto?
If getting rid of any rust on coils and s, and double checking the lead, earthing, connections, blown out possible excess fuel etc she doesn't fire, I might bite the bullet and take her to a mechanic .....
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whats happening? did you get it started?
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Hi turtle, apols - no go yet. The wrong puller came so waiting for a replacement, Should have just gone to the local shop - aghh...
When I do pull off the flywheel with the puller are the coils directly behind that??
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Yes they are behind it. Remember, the puller is left hand thread.
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Ok, pulled the flywheel and everything looks good.. That little bit of surface rust externally is it, coils etc look clean...
So this was done to try and gain a good strong spark, so what next??
I'm hearing a million times all you need is a spark, air and fuel for 2 strokes...
So,
- Air filter could be cleaner but not filthy by any means.. I have filter cleaner from my cars KN filter so could I use that? And what's the best cleaning method..
- fuel definitely going through stop cock, but possible float stuck?? How do I check that?
When people say lean the bike over before starting until it leaks out of the over flow pipe, where is this overflow pipe?
- and 3rd... My spark... Why is it so weak? I'm sure the spark is a major factor, old spark gives weak spark, new spark gives no spark??
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what color is the spark? bright blue or white is good. yellow ish is no good. size doesnt matter :lol:
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Hey turdle, appreciate your ongoing support, it's definitely blue. Does size matter?? ;-) I'm only mentioning the power of the spark cos I have been told and read that it should be a good strong spark that almost "cracks"... The spark I can see, again definitely blue, but faint with no "strength".
So if the spark I have is strong enough, is it the fuel supply? If so, I go back to my previous question re fuel supply.. How can I check that the float is ok, the right settings, not stuck etc... And where is the float bowl? I have tapped the whole carb with a screw driver handle to attempbto unstick the float if stuck but don't know how to properly check? And again where is this "over flow that fuel is supposed to come out of when laying on its side??
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So...... Two days off from Monday.....
I would love a list of things to do / check / clean... carb removal / clean, air filter clean instructions, float bowl level check, etc with advise on how to do these things.,. !! - demanding aren't I ;-)
Anyone keen to give me this list?
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Reeds, and make sure the carb is clean. I may also have some 01 kx 250 factory ignition parts, not going to need them with the road I am going :wink:
If you kick it over about 4 or 5 times and no go pull the plug and see if is very wet, if it is soaked, I would suspect reeds.
Good luck!
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- Air filter could be cleaner but not filthy by any means.. I have filter cleaner from my cars KN filter so could I use that? And what's the best cleaning method..
I used some left over KN filter spray cleaner from my Jeep on my dirt bike filter. It worked but it dissolved the glue on the filter in some spots. I slapped some blue rtv in the gap and squeezed it together. It is fine, but it is a backup filter now. I don't recommend using it.
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Saved a good filter thank you ! ;-)