KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: Slo-Mo on December 08, 2004, 10:36:28 AM
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Hey guys-
I need some expert advice before I do the break-in on my '04 KX500. First, the bike doesn't idle at all-no big deal, and I really don't care too much about it, but thought I would mention it anyway. What I want to know is: should I attempt to jet (or re-jet) the carb before I do the break-in procedure? The engine has MAYBE a total of 10 minutes running time on it at the present time. I will be breaking the engine in in approximately the following manner: 15 minutes of 0 to maximum of 1/4 throttle range, cool down to ambient temp. 15 minutes of 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range, cool to ambient temp. 15 minutes full range throttle closed to WFO, cool to ambient temp. Any other suggestions on break-in? And should I attempt to re-jet? It's winter time here in California (cooler, denser air), my altitude above sea level is approximately 1200 feet. Anything else I should add?
Thanks for your help!
Greg
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Took my 04 500 some time to break in. Mine would not idle either. I did some pipe/muffler/airfilter and jet changes to mine in the first 3 mos. I was given TeamGreen 04 setting guide as a reference. REFERENCE only. I ran mix at 32-1 for first 4 tanks. Excessive and plug costly. Use this link(if still a link) and definately lower the pilot jet a bit. Expensive compared to main but read your stock one first and go 1-2 down(58 to a 52 or 55)
http://www.teamgreennews.ca/pdf/2004_jetting_chart.pdf
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NEMods-
Thanks for the link, it still exists. I think I'll be breaking in the engine using Bel-Ray MC-1 at 40:1 instead of what the manual suggests (32:1) just to make sure I don't go through 3 or 4 plugs during the break-in. In the past, (YZ-465, RM-500, CR-500) I've broken in the engines using a non-synthetic oil. This is the first time I will be using a synthetic oil for break-in. Any suggestions? Should I use Bel-Ray HR1 instead since it's designed to work with powervalved 2-stokes? Should I get new reeds before I even break in the engine? Lots of questions, I know. All suggestions are welcome AND encouraged.
Thanks!
Greg
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Slo-Mo,
Great bike you got there. Jetting is probably the best single thing you can do for the KX. I would recommend breaking it in a bit first before you re-jet. Doesn't really matter, but the bike will respond better to jetting changes once it is broken in a bit. Belray MC1 is great oil. I switched from MC1 to H1R in mine for about 5 years but have recently switched back to my favorite MC1 - too much spooge with the H1R which went away instantly when I switched. I always break my bikes in with MC1 at the usual 50:1. sometimes maybe 40:1 for a tank. My typical ride mix is MC1 at 60:1. I used to race at 85:1 so no problems. For jetting specs, look in the downloads section. There is a chart that is right on the money, almost a set it and forget it. Good luck and have fun. Cam.
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Thanks, Cam. 60:1 seems a bit lean to me, but I may try it after the engine is broken in. I know that the first time I started the bike (with the fuel/oil ratio mixed and supplied by the dealer) the bike smoked like a cheap cigar. I shut off the engine, cleaned the 5 gallons of air filter oil off the air filter, re-greased the seal and oiled the filter lightly, and called it a day. Maybe I'll modify my original 40:1 to 45:1-I just don't want to ruin the ring(s) before the engine is broken in. Call me anal, but I also took apart the swingarm and steering head, cleaned and re-greased the swingarm and shock linkages and steering head bearings and also the wheel bearings. Wasn't much grease to begin with-I know the dangers of too much and too little, so hopefully that won't be a worry for awhile. Anyways, thanks for the suggestions. They are much appreciated.
Greg
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Run it rich (stock jetting) untill its broke in ,then rejet and change the plug.I run Maxima super-m at 40:1,but Id even run 32:1 at break in.Keep an eye on loose bolts (locktight),clean air filter,I run a magnetic drain plug,I regrease EVERYTHING,fuel filters a good idea.Have fun!
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SLo-mo,
Glad you took the time to take it apart. I found out that Kaw doesn't use much grease when the rust started coming out. Yikes. I like running them lean but 50:1 is a good mix. The old MC-1 bottles used to have an 85:1 chart on the back (was the recommended mix). I talked to them about it once and they switched to 50:1 on the bottle because it was more acceptable to the public. Mike is right about the loctite. As a rule of thumb I locktite everything with steel threads and use anti-seize on everything with aluminum threads. I have yet to lose a part. Cam.
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Silicone the air box and all wire connections.I also use dialetic grease on all wire connections,seal the mag cover and remove it once in a while and give it a shot of WD.Cams got the idea with anti/never-seize,it makes working on the bike so much easier and stops the rust.Change the tranny oil dur
ring break in and be careful with the drain plug,strips easy.Thats why a magnetic plug is a good idea,catches the metal particles and can be safety wired on,I could go on and on,but this gets you on a good start.