KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: Pmcg on July 16, 2013, 03:41:35 PM
-
I recently traded my much loved 1995 kx250 for a beat 2000 kx500. I was really happy with the 250 for the past 10 years until I got on a buddies 500 and realized the massive power difference. I was able to get my hands on a street titled frame and a blown motor a while back but was about to scrap the project until I saw the add on craigslist. About 150 miles and some tears later I was the proud owner of a poorly maintained and neglected kx500!
I thought I would make 1 thread for all my questions to keep from cluttering the forum up. This forum has been a great resource so I've tried to stick with site sponsors whenever possible. Todd over at Pinsonnault Racing did the top end for me with a 88mm windowed piston, ported cylinder, and head work to match. Todd is currently working on the crank rebuild and balancing. I plan on sending the head to Larry next for the compression release so I dont have to wear my ridding boots everywhere.
Frame is back from powder coating forks are rebuilt and lucky for me my garage is so "cozy" I never have to walk very far for a tool or a beer.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/kx_zps93e8206b.jpg)
Here's the brains behind the operation
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_1251_zps552ed9d6.jpg)
and after reading Motorrads engine rebuild advice, the most important "tool" in the garage
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/fridge.jpg)
-
hey there buddy.......good luck on your project. One piece of advice I will give you is.......CORRECT JETTING AFTER YOUR BUILD IS COMPLETE. :-D
Take lots of pictures and post lots of details as you build.
-
Thanks. I will take the Jetting advice to heart. I'm pretty sure an angel lost her wings when your motor went down.
-
Please tell me the bottom shelf is beer for your enemies
Top shelf looks good!
d**n I need someone from Idaho to ship me a case of beer I want
-
Oh and vendors don't pay a nickle to be here n they have advertising becausethey are stand up good vendors. That do A+ work... Can't buy your way in on this site
-
If I am ever drinking beer from the bottom shelf something has gone seriously wrong. Good to know about the vendors. Todd's top end work was awesome. Perfect ring gap. Can't wait to ride it with a balanced crank.
-
If I am ever drinking beer from the bottom shelf something has gone seriously wrong. Good to know about the vendors. Todd's top end work was awesome. Perfect ring gap. Can't wait to ride it with a balanced crank.
You should see his stage 2 port work :wink:
-
Just incase you lose your opener..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QmKHfYfovk&feature=player_embedded
-
Just remember, it is scientifically proven that if you drink beer you are twice as likely to get bit by mosquitoes as a non beer drinker.
So, Drink Rum instead :lol:
-
MMMMMMMMMM :-P
Stout's
Looks like a fun project, you wont miss the 250 till the later part of the ride & your worn out from the 500 woopin on ya :-D
-
Just remember, it is scientifically proven that if you drink beer you are twice as likely to get bit by mosquitoes as a non beer drinker.
So, Drink Rum instead :lol:
I always loved this way of getting rid of mosquitos....although I don't believe there's any proven science behind it...it's still funny.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQ3MRkdF9Sk
-
Please tell me the bottom shelf is beer for your enemies
Top shelf looks good!
d**n I need someone from Idaho to ship me a case of beer I want
There is a Boise distributor for Laughing Dog (not to be confused with 2 Doggs F'ing) ,,,,,,,,,,,Cream Ale right???
-
I like where this is going. Kx500 build and micro brew reviews. Up next will be front fork installation and from beautiful Colorado Brechenridge Breweries oatmeal stout.
-
Please tell me the bottom shelf is beer for your enemies
Top shelf looks good!
d**n I need someone from Idaho to ship me a case of beer I want
There is a Boise distributor for Laughing Dog (not to be confused with 2 Doggs F'ing) ,,,,,,,,,,,Cream Ale right???
YES!!!!
-
Please tell me the bottom shelf is beer for your enemies
Top shelf looks good!
d**n I need someone from Idaho to ship me a case of beer I want
There is a Boise distributor for Laughing Dog (not to be confused with 2 Doggs F'ing) ,,,,,,,,,,,Cream Ale right???
YES!!!!
PM you tomorrow
-
PM you tomorrow
You really gonna Bogart the brew?
Now back to a previously scheduled bike build :-D
-
I'm looking for some opinions for my carb. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild my stock carb or run a 44mm Mikuni VM series (Idea taken directly from the power mods thread). It looks like I can pick up the Mikuni brand new from flebay for about 120.00 Any information is appreciated.
-
I'm looking for some opinions for my carb. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild my stock carb or run a 44mm Mikuni VM series (Idea taken directly from the power mods thread). It looks like I can pick up the Mikuni brand new from flebay for about 120.00 Any information is appreciated.
Depends on the rest of your build... Takes many mods to make a 44mm carb beneficial .. I recall the 44mik don't fit the stock frame setup without mods... Could be wrong
I run a 44 Lectron with a power jet. I'm happy with it
-
Thanks for the heads up. I really don't want to modify the frame right now. I'm thinking rebuilding the stock and getting the jetting set correctly is my best bet for now. From my reading it looks like my bigger bore 88mm will require a smaller jet. This makes no sense to me. After using the search function I think I will start out with the Team Green specs which will hopefully be a bit rich and jet down based on the plug
Main: 170
clip: spot 2
pilot: 55
air screw: 2 turns out
-
I'm getting ready to put in a parts order. I'm planning on ordering all the crankcase seals and bearings oem as I can't find a bearing house willing to guarantee non Chinese bearings.
I'm not planning on replacing the clutch release roller bearings as I can't get the lower 1 out.
I plan on ordering all new transmission snap rings
Anything I'm missing for the lower end rebuild?
-
I'm getting ready to put in a parts order. I'm planning on ordering all the crankcase seals and bearings oem as I can't find a bearing house willing to guarantee non Chinese bearings.
I'm not planning on replacing the clutch release roller bearings as I can't get the lower 1 out.
I plan on ordering all new transmission snap rings
Anything I'm missing for the lower end rebuild?
I got the lower one out with a small blind hole bearing puller. I am just replacing a couple that were garbage.
-
My smallest blind hole puller was ably to snag the top bearing but no chance on the lower. I'm thinking if it doesn't look bad and the clutch pulls ok I'm just going to leave it.
-
I hear that some guys drill a small hole under the bearing and push it out from the bottom with a punch, then tig weld the hole.
Worth investigating.
-
I hear that some guys drill a small hole under the bearing and push it out from the bottom with a punch, then tig weld the hole.
Worth investigating.
What did you do with the motard motor?
-
Still playing with it :lol:
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=1131)
For a stock engine it is really impressive thanks to Motorrad and a few others.
Can't wait to install my modded cylinder :-o
-
I didn't realize you finished the motor rebuild, or did you have 2? I know you replaced bearing on 1 of the motors and had it blasted if I rember. Did you replace the clutch release bearings?
-
Oh that motor :lol:
Nope still toying with that one and I will be replacing the lower bearing.
That motor is going to be fear inspiring :lol:
-
Can't wait to see it. What are your plans? How did you get those release bearing out?
-
I will drill the bottom out as my blind bearing puller won't get to it :cry:
Plans?
Porting, timing, windowed Wossner, balanced, head, Motorrad mods, reed, pipe, MZB ignition, and whatever else :-)
-
Ok bearings are ordered. I plan on ordering loctite 648 for the bearings and know I need yamabond for the cases and seals but am not sure what number To order. Any suggestions?
-
Ok bearings are ordered. I plan on ordering loctite 648 for the bearings and know I need yamabond for the cases and seals but am not sure what number To order. Any suggestions?
Grey silicon is great case sealant too, semi rigid, has not failed me yet.
-
Ok bearings are ordered. I plan on ordering loctite 648 for the bearings and know I need yamabond for the cases and seals but am not sure what number To order. Any suggestions?
Grey silicon is great case sealant too, semi rigid, has not failed me yet.
Like the 100% silicone caulk from Home Depot?
-
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg485/alward25/greysilicon_zps25084a08.jpg)No, the ultra grey from permatex you can get from the auto parts store.
-
I prefer the Three Bond 1280B gray formula for case half assembly, and i'm pretty sure it's also the same stuff also known as "Yamabond" .
-
I would use Yamabond 4 on the center cases, I would not use any Silcone based sealant as gas can eat it. On the clutch cover or a gasket I could get to easily it wouldn't bother me but on crank seals and center cases yamabond only and have never had an issue. I too think 3 bond and yamabond are the same.
One thing to keep in mind some of us are older and set in our ways, there may be other stuff out there as good or better, we just use what has worked for us.
As for the lower bearing puller, I made one based on the motion pro puller, it works like a dream, I don't have a photobucket account but if some one has one and wants to post it I'll send pictures of it.
-
Send me a pic and I will post it
oem-cycle@comcast.net
-
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=1136)
The upper pic is a standard puller.
The bottom pic is the one Don made.
Thanks for sharing.
-
which bearing are we talking about?
I too think the yama and 3bond are same thing.
I use only the yamabond... due to the better "applicator tip"... and its impervious to gas.
no sillycone for me read the link to find out why...
http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_373.pdf
-
which bearing are we talking about?
The lower roller bearing for the clutch release arm.
Thanks for the picture don I was toying with the idea of trying to make something myself on my really old screw making lathe. I was even thinking about just running the shoulder off if my smallest blind hole puller.
-
From the Yamalube site-
< Return to All Adhesives Products
Yamabond® 4 Motorsports
A silicone-based liquid gasket that fills gaps on a flange surfaces, when cured (sets in 60 minutes), this product forms a rubber-like gasket that resists high temperatures and seals joints, gear- and engine-oil resistant, Use where the service manual specifies "Threebond 1215"
still a silicon :wink:
-
Like I said to each his own use what you like, There is a difference, nuff said.
There is a shaft going down the center of the puller to expand the cuts at the bottom
lower clutch arm bearing
-
My cases are actually put together with hylomar AND a silk thread if you want to be totally anal like I tend to get
-
Here's another pic of Don's blind bearing puller showing the difference in the usable length
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=1145)
-
One of my pullers, works slick on the bearings and don't have to take the engine out....
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg485/alward25/IMG_2106_zpscbff0c1c.jpg)(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg485/alward25/IMG_2107_zps3df75ca1.jpg)
-
Nice.
I guess I will have to make one as well :-)
-
I finally got some work done. My garage is so small and cluttered I had to clean the basement and set up a motor building table. (http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_14461_zpsf5603268.jpg)
After some negotiations and time on the hot plate (exactly 3 beers time) I'm left with 2 filthy cases. Im looking for someone in NNJ that does soda blasing
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_14471_zpse2cd291d.jpg)
Looks like my oil drain plug threads are hurting. Whats the best fix? Drill and tap up to the next size? Heli coil?
-
Tig weld, drill, and tap.
-
I ordered all new bearings and feel like I should pack them with grease. Is this a bad idea? Any thoughts on what grease to use?
-
I ordered all new bearings and feel like I should pack them with grease. Is this a bad idea? Any thoughts on what grease to use?
the only bearings you should pack are the suspension bearings.
-
Anyone know how I can get my
Hands on an O/D 5th gear?
-
I've been begging for 3 years...
Good luck... :oops:
-
Kind of what I figured. Ill take a set of vf2's while I'm at it. I'm hoping not to split the cases again for a few years so I figured I'd throw it out there.
-
I know where all the original sets are except one. (which I do know is in florida somewhere)
Im actually trying to motivate myself to take mine out.
-
I know where all the original sets are except one. (which I do know is in florida somewhere)
Im actually trying to motivate myself to take mine out.
You must be getting tired of yours by now..... I'm in the market... :wink:
-
I know where all the original sets are except one. (which I do know is in florida somewhere)
Im actually trying to motivate myself to take mine out.
You must be getting tired of yours by now..... I'm in the market... :wink:
if mine come out, they wont be for sale. they will get hung on the wall. keep looking
-
I know where all the original sets are except one. (which I do know is in florida somewhere)
Im actually trying to motivate myself to take mine out.
You must be getting tired of yours by now..... I'm in the market... :wink:
if mine come out, they wont be for sale. they will get hung on the wall. keep looking
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rgeZ_2I0PmE/S3y2LNhXr9I/AAAAAAAAAtA/wfrDrtRrCrc/s400/homer_simpson_hungover.jpg)
-
I know where all the original sets are except one. (which I do know is in florida somewhere)
Im actually trying to motivate myself to take mine out.
You must be getting tired of yours by now..... I'm in the market... :wink:
if mine come out, they wont be for sale. they will get hung on the wall. keep looking
Why would you want to take it out? Can they really be that hard to make?
-
Easy, It's just a question of money..
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3565/3387302347_2d6658ddbe_m.jpg)
-
I know where all the original sets are except one. (which I do know is in florida somewhere)
Im actually trying to motivate myself to take mine out.
You must be getting tired of yours by now..... I'm in the market... :wink:
if mine come out, they wont be for sale. they will get hung on the wall. keep looking
Why would you want to take it out? Can they really be that hard to make?
the gear split between 4-5 is too large for sand or anythign but fire roads, hard pack.
which works NICE.
but I always seem to want a gear between the two.
its a big jump to go from riding around in 4th (or racing) at around 65mph, to. roughly 90 to over 110mph in the power. some times you just want to do 80.
I like a bike geared to 15/45 with stock gears better than the big jump
od is great for.
-clicking in on a big long straight and SAILING past everyone at about 110.
- setting land speed records
- street use. (idle downt the freeway.)
-It sucks if you want a tranny that makes scense and works under normal riding conditions.
WOODS GUYS WOULD LOVE IT. could gear WAY DOWN. and still have a decent 5th
to make the K5 tranny truly wide ratio, somone needs to come out with a LOWER 1st gear, and split up 2 and 3 differances. so the overall gearing can be bumped up, to the same level as the over drive, with nice tight ratio jumps like the stock trans...
or. make a 6speed out of a husqvarna or husaberg fit. :evil:
-
or. make a 6speed out of a husqvarna or husaberg fit. :evil:
That would be cool but you would have a hard time making it work...
But if you want to try I have a 6 speed Husaberg gear box, shift forks, drum, ect...
-
Try 15:43 guys...it works really well with the stock gearing. :-D
-
Got a bit more done this weekend. My home Depot draw bolt worked great on the swingarm bearings.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_11651_zpsafe13991.jpg)
I was going to get the swingarm powdercoated but I started to strip it and the aluminum looked pretty nice raw. I plan on stripping the entire thing and seeing how it looks.
I also started lapping the cases. How much time do you spend on lapping. If I hold my cases together by had and hold them up to the light I can still see a bit of light coming in by the crank. I dont want to take too much off but I feel like the amount of metal actually removed is minuscule
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_11671_zpsf37ee337.jpg)
And finally I would highly recommend Moo Thunder made by Farmhouse Ale for all your warm weather drinking needs. Its a delicious Stout that goes down smooth. Easy to finish the 6 pack during a bearing removal session.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_11681_zps2c236408.jpg)
-
I got the trans apart today. I feel like there's a good chance I might even get it back together.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_1243_zpse8acb0fd.jpg)
All the gears look good and everything is in spec. This was the only suspect gear what do you guys think?
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_1245_zps5bf6b347.jpg)
The only other wild card is the clutch release bearings. I know a few guys on here made their own but it seems like more than I want to get into on my screw lathe. Does anyone know where I can buy just the collet as I already have a set its just not deep enough.
-
I also started lapping the cases. How much time do you spend on lapping. If I hold my cases together by had and hold them up to the light I can still see a bit of light coming in by the crank. I dont want to take too much off but I feel like the amount of metal actually removed is minuscule
I wouldn't want to see any light coming through on my cases... :-o
When I lapped my cases I took Motorrads advice and put a bolt into one of the bolt holes, not tight but just enough to use it as a pivot point.
Then I worked the top case back and forth for a bit.
Then I moved the bolt to another location and worked it some more.
I moved the pivot bolt in a star pattern.
Each time I moved the bolt I applied more time saver..
When I was done I cleaned the cases and checked them out.... No gaps, extremely tight fit...
How much time should you take?
As long as it takes... :lol:
-
This was the only suspect gear what do you guys think?
I've seen worse but your into it this far, why not replace it?
On your cir clips, I would highly recommend that you replace them all...
I bought a KX500 cheap with a bad trans.... The only thing wrong was a cir clip was busted..
-
sounds good I think I'll spend a bit more time lapping the cases then. I did order all new c clips thanks. Any ideas on the lower clutch release bearing?
-
Don't know any one that makes them long enough :cry:
You can make your own or you can drill a small hole underneath the bearing and use a punch to drive it out.
Then tig the hole..
-
Don't know any one that makes them long enough :cry:
You can make your own or you can drill a small hole underneath the bearing and use a punch to drive it out.
Then tig the hole..
I have one :-D :-D :-D Maybe I could start a loaner program??
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg485/alward25/IMG_2106_zpscbff0c1c.jpg)
-
When you come down next time... please bring it..
I'm in no hurry but I could use it...
Oh, and Christmas Valley this weekend.. :-D
-
Don't know any one that makes them long enough :cry:
You can make your own or you can drill a small hole underneath the bearing and use a punch to drive it out.
Then tig the hole..
I have one :-D :-D :-D Maybe I could start a loaner program??
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg485/alward25/IMG_2106_zpscbff0c1c.jpg)
If you wouldn't mind I would be happy to pay shipping. I think I should need it for all of 30 seconds.
-
I know oil is tougher to discuss than politics but I always ran Bel-Ray. Reading through some old threads it would seem that Bel-ray isn't the best option. Any reccendations for the lower end oil? Brand and viscosity? I want to pre lube the tranny when I put it back together.
-
Good call by sandblaster on lapping until the cases are completely tight. A few things I noticed were that my cases were cupped and I had to lap a good bit until the middle of the cases were tight. You can tell the spots that are not connecting by the color of the lapping compound. I mixed mine with a red atf making a pale orange color. The spots on the cases that were making contact turned black right away and the spots that weren't were still orange. I also tried several different application methods and found a large plastic syringe to be the way to go as there was minimal waste running down the side of the cases
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_1251_zpsc3402be8.jpg)
-
Great applicator idea...
I'll be using that in the future :lol:
-
I have tons of them say the word and I'll send a few your way.
-
I know oil is tougher to discuss than politics but I always ran Bel-Ray. Reading through some old threads it would seem that Bel-ray isn't the best option. Any reccendations for the lower end oil? Brand and viscosity? I want to pre lube the tranny when I put it back together.
my best experience i had with "motul transoil" it has also the right additives for a better clutch-working and thats important for bikes with much hp and torque, that the clutch never slip ... :-)
-
And now for the manliest thing you can do with a kx500 crank bearing.
http://s129.photobucket.com/user/patmcgurrin/media/IMG_1313_zps15a257b4.mp4.html
-
Nice :-D
-
I got the trans back together. All new snap rings. It helps having another trans for reference
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/image_zps64112007.jpg)
-
I got the linkage rebuilt. I purchased an all balls kit and it was crap needles falling out all over the place. I sent it back and went with the pivot works set and was much happier
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/image_zps56969e86.jpg)
I'm having a hard time with the right side swing arm needle bearings. I've wrecked 2 already using both the draw bolt and a vise. The inside is clean but just seems too tight. I've heated and frozen each time. I think I'm going to have to take a bit of metal out with the deemel. Any advice?
-
Got my head back from Larry. A++++++++++++ workmanship
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps17719211.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps8fadd6cd.jpg)
He even fixed my stripped out drain plug
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4a9f197a.jpg)
-
So the parts are all in. Now for the hard part
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsf1585b81.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps6a1231dd.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb7486a4a.jpg)
-
Looking great!
Can't wait to see the finished product.
-
Alex is the man!
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa32953e6.jpg)
-
Alex is the man!
He has his moments :-D
-
Ya, somebody mentioned to drill a hole , pound it out and tig weld it, that would be weird :wink:
-
Ya, somebody mentioned to drill a hole , pound it out and tig weld it, that would be wierd :wink:
You spelled Weird wrong :-P
-
Weekend progress. A hot plate and freezer are the only way to install bearings. turned out to be an 8 beer job as I installed the shifter forks backwards a few times.
JB Weld applied to the cases.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse493d7ec.jpg)
Bearings in
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps0078a269.jpg)
Tranny in
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps8ba6c316.jpg)
-
Am I missing a collar on the output shaft? Parts diagram calls for part#92143-1370 but I can't find it anywhere on the table. I'm ready to put the cases together and really don't want to do it twice. Thanks
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpscc98c2ef.jpg)
-
I put a mic on it and it doesn't look like anything else will fit in there. Help!
-
The collar goes on after the cases are assembled. That is where the sprocket is mounted. There should be an O ring (92055), collar (92143), sprocket then circlip (92033)... in that order. :-D The part numbers are from www.bikebandit.com
-
Ugh. Looks like I screwed up the beer spec. Fffffuuuuuuu
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsc62bc3f9.jpg)
-
That sucks. :cry: I did that once! :oops: and actually learned from it I still carfully check the crank oriantation every time. at leased you noticed before you bolted it all together I didnt intill I tried to install the crank gear.
-
Haha brutal. It came back apart ok. I used the loc tight retaining compound and was worried it would be tight. Definitely a mistake I will never make again.
-
This seems to work better
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_1617_zps1172d8d2.jpg)
Got the rear suspension all rebuilt and she's rolling again. Even had a little help!
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_1613_zpsb19e4659.jpg)
-
Ugh. Looks like I screwed up the beer spec. Fffffuuuuuuu
Sorry man, I had to chuckle :evil:
I've certainly pulled my share of bone head moves :lol:
-
Ugh. Looks like I screwed up the beer spec. Fffffuuuuuuu
Sorry man, I had to chuckle :evil:
I've certainly pulled my share of bone head moves :lol:
HAHA laugh away it is pretty hysterical. Had to laugh at my own stupidity.
-
Thanks for sharing that. Made my day. To many aren't willing to laugh about stuff like that. I'm one that thinks it's hilarious.
How old are the little ones?
-
Thanks for sharing that. Made my day. To many aren't willing to laugh about stuff like that. I'm one that thinks it's hilarious.
How old are the little ones?
Have to laugh at it or its stops being fun. The boys are 2 and 5. I got the 5 year old a JR50 for his birthday. He's already got his first oil/filter change under his belt. They both love working on bikes just have to keep a close eye on the hammers. Everything looks like a nail to those guys.
-
The little ones are fun. And their little hands polish between spokes better than mine.
Mine are 3yrs and other is 3 months
-
The little ones are fun. And their little hands polish between spokes better than mine.
Mine are 3yrs and other is 3 months
Pretty much the same age spread. It gets wild once they start talking to each other.
-
Has anyone tried the eBay silicone radiator hoses?
-
I've ran them on my 500 and a 250 with no problems.
-
I've ran them on my 500 and a 250 with no problems.
the silicone hoses have better flow at the inside and in blue color it looks so amazing factory... 8-)
-
Have to laugh at it or its stops being fun. The boys are 2 and 5. I got the 5 year old a JR50 for his birthday. He's already got his first oil/filter change under his belt. They both love working on bikes just have to keep a close eye on the hammers. Everything looks like a nail to those guys.
I'm so jealous. I wish I could afford one of those new fangled electric bikes for my 4 year old. Some day...
-
I got the jr off of Craigslist. Took a while but I found a good deal. If you ask the little guy what kind of a bike he rides he says 2 stroke only 2 stroke.
-
I've ran them on my 500 and a 250 with no problems.
the silicone hoses have better flow at the inside and in blue color it looks so amazing factory... 8-)
That seals the deal for me. I ordered up as set.
-
The Clarke tanks are HUGE!
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps40400c58.jpg)
-
Yes they are :lol:
Mine is a bit older but you get the idea.
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=1131)
-
Did it take some getting used to? I'm so jealous of your tires.
-
If I was riding off road it would take a bit just because of the additional weight of the fuel.
On the street I don't even notice it.
Yeah, these tires and wheels are sweet as long as it's dry..
A wet surface is a no no :-o
-
I can only imagine that on a wet day. Noooooooo chance.
-
Very true.
But once or twice a year when the roads are dry and the moss is scraped off it's awesome... 8-)
-
I know the V Force 3 reeds say it on them. I'm hoping that means these are VF2's. Any one know by looking?
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb0ecef87.jpg)
-
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsdf1fbc78.jpg)
-
Yes, I do know :-D
Look here:
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,11799.15.html (http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,11799.15.html)
-
Exactly what i was looking for
-
want to sell them? i've got some brand new in the box vf3 i can offer up :-D
-
Seems like a good deal. How much cash would I have to throw in to upgrade to the 3's?
-
Seems like a good deal. How much cash would I have to throw in to upgrade to the 3's?
Upgrade??!!
-
been slow going on my project. I'm hoping to be done by the spring. weather hasn't been great so the garage is super cold. Getting ready to put the clutch back on but noticed the gear that engages the clutch and the kickstarted hase some play. Is this normal? All the other gears seem tight but this 1 rocks a bit. No damage that I can see. Picture for clarification:
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps86001d58.jpg)
-
yeah that's the "idle" gear...mine was the same way, and needed to be replaced.
-
what wore out? The gear itself?
-
it was the insert in the gear....but unfortunately, you can't buy just that....Kawie makes you buy the whole gear.
-
Thanks Foxx. I took it off and can see the insert that you're talking about and it looks to be in good shape. Is there a wear limit? I've used up all of my kx funds and am thinking about running it as is. Any advice? Thanks
-
hmmm...of course I don't have my manual at hand right now, I'm not sure if it would give a service limit or not ....but when you say it "rocks a bit"...just how much?...mine was really bad!, my buddy practically pissed himself laughing when he saw how wobbly it was.
Looks like Rocky Mtn has em for $80.....I know you said you're at your limit, but it would be worth getting one if it's bad, especially since you've gone this far ....maybe someone on here has one in decent shape they can hook you up with.
-
if it's not that bad, worst comes to worst....by all means, put it together, then get the gear later down the road...at least on the plus side of things, you don't have to pull the motor, just lay the bike on it's side, pull the clutch cover...you will have to remove the clutch basket(not a huge deal), and there ya go, it's right there...don't even need to drain the oil!...and if you're using Cometic gaskets, you can re-use it :-D
-
Thanks Foxx I was able to get a good used one from Paul at a more than reasonable price.
-
sweet...gotta love it when things work out!
-
I'm hoping to finish this thing so I can ride when the weather gets a bit better here in NJ. Reading through threads I think it was Motorrad that had issues with air getting in from the PV governer. Todd rebuild and cleaned everything and it looks great but doesnt look like it seals. Is it supposed to? Heres a video
http://s129.photobucket.com/user/patmcgurrin/media/MVI_7379_zps65ccfac2.mp4.html
-
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg485/alward25/kx500kips_zps48815c5d.jpg)
-
Order placed thanks Alex
-
Hope it works, the shaft gets worn too and will not seal right. Pressure test is the only real way to see if you actually fixed it, but that looked like the seal was really shot.
Good Luck!!!
-
Today was a good mail day.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps95cfa151.jpg)
-
where the hell did you come up with a set of VF2!!!???
-
eBay.
-
So I still have some play in the kips rod after replacing the seal. I know motorrad had to replace the rod after performing a pressure test. My question is what did you use to apply/test the pressure? Is there a certain tool? Should the piston be at bdc? How much pressure? Thanks.
-
You can buy a tool or you can make one..
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=516 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=516)
Remember to test positive and negative pressure.
Should hold 7lb overnight.
-
Thanks blaster. You site is great. What is the plug in the pictures for? The exhaust?
-
Yes, one plug is for the exhaust, the other plug is for your carb boot.
I think somewhere on KXriders is a pic of Motorrad's complete set up.
IF nobody chimes in I'll see if I can find it after work today.
-
Poor mans leak tester.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps21d8a262.jpg)
-
Looks good.
The only problem I see is there is no negative pressure gauge or am I missing it?
-
No you're not missing it. I am going to switch the Schafer valve out for a barb and use a mighty vac for the negative. I wanted to go through the spark plug hole like you did but it seemed a ton more difficult.
-
So the motor would not even come close to holding vacuum. Looks like I'm ordering a new kips center valve
M
-
I obviously had to put my head on with the head gasket to pressure test the motor and now since I have to redo the kips valve I had to take the head back off. Did I wreck the gasket? Are they reusable? It's a cometic metal gasket. Thanks.
-
Ttt
-
I've reused them with no issue. But all my stuff is perfectly flat. And lapped together. So I get away with more. I ran 3 used gaskets stacked together once.
-
I obviously had to put my head on with the head gasket to pressure test the motor and now since I have to redo the kips valve I had to take the head back off. Did I wreck the gasket? Are they reusable? It's a cometic metal gasket. Thanks.
I have reused mine on occasion but never after running it for a while, but probably could have on a few occasions.
-
Thanks guys! I lapped the head and obviously didn't run the motor as it was leaking like crazy. I think ill reuse it. I would imagine the leak down test would also show if there were issues with the head gasket.
-
So the motor would not even come close to holding vacuum. Looks like I'm ordering a new kips center valve
M
How can a KIPS center valve cause a vacuum/pressure leak?
-
maybe he means the actuator rod, maybe :wink:
-
Yea sorry the rod that comes out of the cylinder. I replace the seal and it still leaks so I got a new rod. Hopefully that fixes it.
-
So for anyone with the same vacuum issues I solved it with a new KIPS rod Part#49046-1064 (mine was bent) I also had to replace the valve guide Part#49002-1062 The oil seal part #92049-1206 and the o-ring Part#92055-025. Probably worth ordering all 4 right out of the gate if you're having the same issue.
Bent Rod
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_7388_zps77be48c0.jpg)
Valve guide and the bad o-ring
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_7390_zps438b8893.jpg)
-
nearly all used rods leak... that I have seen
-
nearly all used rods leak... that I have seen
I really would have bet against it being the rod. Luckily you posted your findings or id still be working with it. I do have a leak around the reeds despite new gaskets so I think I need a new boot as the old one has a bit of cracking but I think I'm going to need to put it in with yamah bond. any suggestions?
-
My order of installation
Yamabond
Cometic gasket
Yamabond
Reeds
Yamabond
Comedic gasket
Yamabond
Intake boot
-
New boots looked cracked, not sure of their process, not the smoothest, as long as you can't see any cracks on the inside. Good to go
-
Any advice on removing the power valve bearing from the clutch cover? My puller is to big (I don't run into that issue often) and I had 1 made smaller but it just bent.
-
Heat and a blind bearing puller gets 99.99% of them out.
-
So my new issue is that the oversized Clarke tank hits my compression release valve. I'm considering heating and bending the tank around the release but terrified of ruining my new tank. Anyone have advice on bending? I'm also considering trying to trade for a tank that will fit but am not sure what oversized tanks work.
-
So heat gun and a pipe?
-
Just be careful with the heat gun.
I have melted clear through one tank.
I have heard that boiling the tank works well but I have never tried it,
-
Im rebuilding the clutch cover now and knew that the motor had blown a water pump seal so I ordered a new seal but on inspection the water pump gear spur had a good bit of galling/scoring so I ordered a new one. I bet it gets overlooked all of the time.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse26f637d.jpg)
-
Very common problem in KTM lc4 motors
-
Does anyone make a jet kit that comes with a few different jets or is my best bet to buy them individually?
-
So it looks like I'm just going to order a bunch of individual jets from jets r us. Any recommendations on where to start? I'm planning on ordering a few options. Bike is 88mm vf2 and pro circuit pipe at 900 ft. And advice is appreciated.
-
So it looks like I'm just going to order a bunch of individual jets from jets r us. Any recommendations on where to start? I'm planning on ordering a few options. Bike is 88mm vf2 and pro circuit pipe at 900 ft. And advice is appreciated.
Only run genuine keihin jets!!
168. 55. 1.5 turns. Stock needle middle clip
-
Only run genuine keihin jets!!
168. 55. 1.5 turns. Stock needle middle clip
+1
Pro Circuit agrees and both my K5's love it with the stock carb.
-
So it looks like I'm just going to order a bunch of individual jets from jets r us. Any recommendations on where to start? I'm planning on ordering a few options. Bike is 88mm vf2 and pro circuit pipe at 900 ft. And advice is appreciated.
Only run genuine keihin jets!!
168. 55. 1.5 turns. Stock needle middle clip
Thanks
-
If the kx were running I might drive it off of a cliff but as it stands now it would be too much work to push it. I Yamaha bonded the reeds in and am still loosing pressure during my pressure test. It takes about 3 min to loose the 7lbs. I used the windex trick and see no bubbles anywhere. Obviously the only place I can't check it the inside case section between crank and trans but I doubt that's the issue as I lapped the cases. Power valve is new and not leaking. Crank seals also new and not leaking. Reeds are Yamaha bonded. Intake boot is ugly but no bubbles. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Pat.
-
Piston at bdc when testing?
-
Nope didn't know it had to be.
-
Still losing pressure at bdc
-
It's going somewhere, so pressure it up, and soapy water the entire engine front, back, sides, underneath... ect...
You'll find it.
-
Anyone have any experience with the type 296 spark arrester? I'm looking for seething on the quiet side.
-
Anyone have any experience with the type 296 spark arrester? I'm looking for seething on the quiet side.
whitedog has one he's looking to sell/trade...not sure what his thoughts are about them...he's the one that bought my Factory Sound silencer a week ago.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,12722.0.html
-
Did you ever find the leak?
-
Did you ever find the leak?
Not yet. Its nice having a bike that needs so much work so I can just move on when I get frustrated. I got the rear wheel all set with new bearings, new tire, and a new sprocket.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb15d665b.jpg)
-
Anyone have any experience with the type 296 spark arrester? I'm looking for seething on the quiet side.
whitedog has one he's looking to sell/trade...not sure what his thoughts are about them...he's the one that bought my Factory Sound silencer a week ago.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,12722.0.html
Thanks I sent him a PM
-
I bent over quick today to grab a wrench and got penetrated by a Suzuki jr50 so I had to put everything on hold and try to arrange my garage. It's like trying to stuff 15 lbs of flour in a 10lb sack.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps8f5af060.jpg)
-
I suppose you could immerse the entire engine under water in a barrel or tub. Since it is pressurized no water will get into it. Just dry it off good after you see where the stream of bubbles is coming from. :-)
-
I bent over quick today to grab a wrench and got penetrated by a Suzuki jr50 so I had to put everything on hold and try to arrange my garage. It's like trying to stuff 15 lbs of flour in a 10lb sack.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps8f5af060.jpg)
[img][/imghttp://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s450/the7knolls/Mobile%20Uploads/NCM_0299_zpsd6f54e44.jpg
That garage space is nothing!! 30×30 garage crammed with a sea Doo XP on stand, 1998 zxi1100 & 1995 zxi900 on trailer, 1986 LT230, 1986 XR250R, 1992 LT250R, 1988 TECATE 4, 1992 LT80, 1998 DS80, 2002 RM250, 2004 105SX, 1995 YZ125, AND 1994 KX500. guess you could say a hoarder :lol: :lol:
-
I bent over quick today to grab a wrench and got penetrated by a Suzuki jr50 so I had to put everything on hold and try to arrange my garage. It's like trying to stuff 15 lbs of flour in a 10lb sack.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps8f5af060.jpg)
[img][/imghttp://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s450/the7knolls/Mobile%20Uploads/NCM_0299_zpsd6f54e44.jpg
That garage space is nothing!! 30×30 garage crammed with a sea Doo XP on stand, 1998 zxi1100 & 1995 zxi900 on trailer, 1986 LT230, 1986 XR250R, 1992 LT250R, 1988 TECATE 4, 1992 LT80, 1998 DS80, 2002 RM250, 2004 105SX, 1995 YZ125, AND 1994 KX500. guess you could say a hoarder :lol: :lol:
You lost me at 30x30!!!!
-
I got all that stuff shoved in a 30ft by 30ft garage!! Throw a lil KY on them bars and it won'tbother you as much! :lol:
-
Good weekend for me. I got all the s**t back in the elephant
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps437ec3f2.jpg)
Got the tank bent with no hole
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps9949fc9d.jpg)
Found my air leak. It was in the kips bolt. Not sure how I missed it.
Ran the carb through the ultra sonic and put in the new jets and seals
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsc476d0af.jpg)
And topped it all off with a little redneck engineering. Here's my peg bracket straightener
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa1bb5fa0.jpg)
-
Need to leak test mine too but am afraid it would add another year to the build! Glad you found the leak! Lookin' good!
-
Need to leak test mine too but am afraid it would add another year to the build! Glad you found the leak! Lookin' good!
Thanks. I built my own leak tester let me know if you'd like to borrow it and ill send it out.
-
I installed a new water pump seal in the clutch cover and as a bit surprised at how hard it was to turn the water pump spur gear. It's pretty straight forward don't think it possible to mess up but I'm a bit worried it will get hot and melt the seal. Any experience with these? Thanks Pat.
-
Almost tackled the UPS guy today
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps64744e54.jpg)
-
Oh yeah... I pulled my MZB out of the box...
I'm ready to install mine next week.
Did you talk to Alex about what to watch for?
On the pump, it should not be too tight.
Did you lube the seal lip when you installed?
-
I spoke with Alex but don't remember any specific things to watch for. Anything I need to look out for? Also no lube on the seal. I figured coolant and case oil would keep it spinning.
-
I'd give it some asy lube just for grins...
I don't have my notes but here goes from memory...
Lap the flywheel.
Dial indicator through the spark plug hole and zeroed out at TDC.
Rotate the motor clockwise which is reverse to how it runs till you hit .087" then set the line on your flywheel to your dot on your stator.
Then rotate your engine a full 360 degrees. When you hit .087", check the alignment again to make sure the marks still line up.
Torque the flywheel nut and triple check.
Run all ground lines to the same spot on the frame such as where your coil bolts on.
Check your battery voltage, then start your bike and check the voltage again to be sure it is charging the battery.
Alex... Please double check this.
Since you have the directions, could you take a pic of section 2 and 3?
For some reason mine is gone.
I'd like to have it for my records.
I tried to download it from their sire but the directions don't match up... :oops:
-
No problem. I will scan and email it to you as well. Whats the best way to rotate the motor clockwise?
-
Slowest project ever has hit another snag. I'm running an RK GB520EXW chain with Supersprox but am getting a little chain rub on the case. Obviously I dont want to destroy the case. I was told the chain wold work anyone use this chain? Is a little rub ok? I am spinning the back wheel while the bike is on a stand so that changes the angle a bit but the rub is freaking me out. Thanks guys!!!!
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_00911_zps4c5df013.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/IMG_00921_zps595814d5.jpg)
-
yup, I had a slight rubbing issue a few years ago....then I switched to the RK MXU-Ring chain...it's much narrower and lighter...and no where near the case...
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDU0WDcyMA==/z/x~QAAOxynwlTcs6V/$_57.JPG)
it's still an o-ring...but the O-rings are almost flat and ribbed.
-
the other thing I discovered was that when I got my bike a few years ago, it had a Sunstar front sprocket on it...switching to a Renthal sprocket pushed everything out away from the case a touch more too.
-
You think it's ok to run as is?
-
You think it's ok to run as is?
keep a close eye on it...right before I put the MXU on, I lightly spray painted the area where it was rubbing, as a guide to see if it was still gonna rub...and since I've been running the MXU, the paint has never been touched.
I wanna say that D.I.D makes a very similar narrow enduro chain too.
-
My budget is completely blown so I thing I'm gonna run it and see what happens. What's the worst out come new cases!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-
Finally got to ride the kx500! She didn't want to kick over but a quick run start and I was good to go. Alwards lights are bright! Larrys comp release is awesome. Didn't get to ride much as it was 11:00 when I got it going but I'm super pumped. I'll post a video later.
-
Double check your timing, if it ends up taking more than about 4 kicks and you are sure your jetting is right, you may need to adjust your timing. .086" BTDC seems to be what the K5 wants. PICS!!!!!!
-
Hmmm.
Use to be .087"
Now it's .086"
Why the change?
-
maybe bad memory, try either or
-
:-P
-
So I need some jetting advice. My bike is still really hard to start despite playing with the timing all over the place and doesn't want to idle. The motor is a bit bored out at 88mm, some port work, windowed piston, vf2 reeds, pc pipe and a nature friendly silencer type 296 I think. I also have the Penton lighting kit. Bike will run start ok but doesn't have that 500 bottom end torque. It will wheelie every gear once the valves open but doesn't feel right down low. I was reading that a bigger bore needs smaller jets and am pretty sure that I'm running rich from looking at the plug. I'm currently at 168. 55. 1.5 turns. Stock needle middle clip. What's the smallest I should go before risking motor damage? Should I jet down on both? Any advice is appreciated.
-
Bigger bore = smaller jets
How small is too small?
Depends on your altitude and engine condition.
What altitude are you riding at?
-
I'm in nj. Google says my altitude is 984
-
What is the numbers on the side of the carb?
-
The side of the carb is stamped pwk g250 ancn. Thanks for the help!
-
pwk
-
I'll be really interested to see how your jetting comes out. I am at 1,100 feet, and have some of the same mods. Please post what you come up with. Thank you!
-
Good reading on jetting the pilot
http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf
http://www.keihincarbs.com/tips/gate.html
If jetting is not causing your issues after the easy stuff/plug fuel cutout switch damage wiring etc maybe refit the stock flywheel ignition to see how it runs
Did u do the kipps bolt mod and set the kipps valve correctly ?
Thanks Dave I was thinking the same thing about the stock ignition setup. I did do the kips bolt mod and am fairly certain that it's all working correctly.
-
So I moved the needle clip up into the second spot and the bike starts a ton easier. I had the timing back at .080 btc and it felt flat on top so I advanced back to .087. Top seems good now and bottom isn't teriable. The biggest problem now is that the bike surges like crazy. I turned down the idle but it doesn't seem to help. I was thinking about switching the pc pipe for a fatty to move the power down a bit. I'm wondering if I soupd move the needle clip back down and jet down accordingly. Are their advantages to doing it that way? Any idea on the surging? Everything is new no air leaks.
Thanks.
-
After some re reading looks like the surging may be caused if I'm lean? I think I'm going to order a bunch of smaller jets and swap em out tying to keep the needle on the 3rd clip. Any suggestions from the experts?
-
The side of the carb is stamped pwk g250 ancn. Thanks for the help!
Ok, that is the last version from 96-04
I'd go 52 165 clip in the 3rd position.
It might still be fat but better to go in small increments.
What you are looking for is your air screw to be set at 1.5 turns out and running good.
And, you want it so that when you let off the gas, the engine winds down quickly.
Be sure to make adjustments with a warm engine.
And then, watch your plug color.
You might want to take a look here:
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=550 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=550)
-
The side of the carb is stamped pwk g250 ancn. Thanks for the help!
Ok, that is the last version from 96-04
I'd go 52 165 clip in the 3rd position.
It might still be fat but better to go in small increments.
What you are looking for is your air screw to be set at 1.5 turns out and running good.
And, you want it so that when you let off the gas, the engine winds down quickly.
Be sure to make adjustments with a warm engine.
And then, watch your plug color.
You might want to take a look here:
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=550 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=550)
Thanks Blaster! I ordered a 165 and a 162 and a 52 and a 50. I feel like I'm getting close and its nice to have eliminated the electric system.
-
Just go slow and watch your plug color..
-
So I changed a bunch of stuff and came pretty close to blowing the bike up. I took off the PC pipe and switched to an FMF Fatty and rebuilt Turbine core. I also added a 10mm reed spacer. I changed the jets to 165 52. Sandblaster had a great how to and I made a plug and set my float level.
The bike was idling really high despite the screw being all the way out. I had leak tested the motor before install and I sprayed wd40 around the carb intake boot to rule that out. So I thought I might be lean with all the changes and re installed the 167 55. The bike still idled high so I blipped the throttle so see if it would settle.
Well that was a bad move because the throttle went crazy. I couldn’t shut it down with the kill, shocked the s**t out of myself trying to disconnect the plug, and finally got it back down after twisting the throttle again. The throttle was not stuck and after shutting down the bike I had fuel dumping out of the overflow.
I’m not sure what went wrong I assume the float stuck and the motor took off. I don’t know if I should try and replace the carb or some parts. The float needle looked great and I verified that it was working. The float had been bent a few times but looks ok. I’m hoping for some advice. Don’t want to start it again with this carb.
-
have you verified your cable routing is correct?...no tight spots when you turn the bars from side to side?
is the upper adjuster at the throttle housing set correctly?...you generally want an 1/8" of free play at the throttle.
check were the cable goes into the top of the carb....there's two different types of caps...
my old carb used the kind that uses the clip that you slide into place that locks the cable in...
my new carb came with a cap that didn't use the clip, but I used the old cap with the clip on my new carb...as I feel safer knowing the cable is locked into the cap.
-
yea thanks Fox checked. Its not the cable I'm pretty sure its the float. I'm thinking about replacing the float and needle and seat or maybe just ordering a Lectron.
-
or maybe just ordering a Lectron.
that'll be my next carb! :-)
-
I cant find any prices or places to order them
-
I cant find any prices or places to order them
http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/
http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/carburetor/
http://www.packardracing.com/start.php?page=products.php?id=22
-
Thanks Fox. Looks like I have to call Lectron. Packard shows it but the add to cart has it at $0.00
-
Motorrad or one of the other guys might know of better places to buy them from too.
-
I need to figure out what size to order and find out how much trouble I'll get in when the bill hits.
-
Sounds like could be a bit of fuel pipe [rubber] stuck behind float needle valve {remove the valve and clean out circuit and be careful fitting the petrol pipes as little bits can cause this when fitting
Can never understand how old floats need adjustment [unless everthing in there is worn out
I would double check for air leaks and carb slide
-
I bought mine from Motosportz. Kelly had a lot of write ups out there and I figured what the heck!
-
Thanks Luke. Did you go with the 44mm? How do you like it?
-
I ended up calling Packard and the guys over there were great. Very patient and answered all of my questions. Best part is they have the 44 in stock and it will ship today. Now I'm just hoping that I didn't do any damage when she revved to the moon.
-
44mm?
Huge!
Get it all set up then give me your specs so I can do mine 8-)
-
44mm?
Huge!
Get it all set up then give me your specs so I can do mine 8-)
That's a deal.
-
I ended up calling Packard and the guys over there were great. Very patient and answered all of my questions. Best part is they have the 44 in stock and it will ship today. Now I'm just hoping that I didn't do any damage when she revved to the moon.
what'd they quote you for a price, shipping included?...if you don't mind sharing.
-
44mm?
Huge!
Get it all set up then give me your specs so I can do mine 8-)
Or you can ask me..
-
I ended up calling Packard and the guys over there were great. Very patient and answered all of my questions. Best part is they have the 44 in stock and it will ship today. Now I'm just hoping that I didn't do any damage when she revved to the moon.
what'd they quote you for a price, shipping included?...if you don't mind sharing.
It was 375 for the carb and 60 for the throttle and cable. I'm not sure what shipping was but I'll let you know once I get it.
-
that's not a bad price at all....I may have to step up to the plate too, and get one over the winter :|
thanks for sharing.
-
Thanks Luke. Did you go with the 44mm? How do you like it?
I got a 38mm, I've only got the intermediates bike a 300. Haven't finished building the bike yet and am very keen to see how it goes.
I would think that a 44mm carb would be great for top end.
-
44mm?
Huge!
Get it all set up then give me your specs so I can do mine 8-)
Or you can ask me..
That goes without saying :lol:
-
Today was like Christmas
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/AA2C03B3-92FE-4DD0-BA9E-6198F5328709_zpsx9pbjaux.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/EFE2ECBE-6C86-42F9-B8CB-A159A5DFFFA0_zpsuubw0bgm.jpg)
Can you spot whats special on my custom sandblaster made brake pedal?
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/57BFCBB6-0298-4FF7-A44E-EA1B397217D3_zpsj0usg8dz.jpg)
-
With all the new parts I had to keep it a little redneck.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/52290887-59D3-4872-89D0-084C11B58B90_zpsbrwyzf4b.jpg)
-
Today was like Christmas
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/AA2C03B3-92FE-4DD0-BA9E-6198F5328709_zpsx9pbjaux.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/EFE2ECBE-6C86-42F9-B8CB-A159A5DFFFA0_zpsuubw0bgm.jpg)
that was fast!...sweet.
-
The guys at Packard are awesome. Had it to me in 1 day. Charged me less then we agreed on. And spent 1/2 hour on the phone talking about install and how the 500 is more bike then I need. I'm in the process of boiling my intake boot now to get it to mate with the carb better.
-
FYI. They come from Packard set very rich....
Which NEEDLE did they give you?
-
FYI. They come from Packard set very rich....
Which NEEDLE did they give you?
I'm pretty sure it's a 52 xl. I have the power jet screwed in 3 turns. Hopefully I get a chance to try it out tomorrow.
-
FYI. They come from Packard set very rich....
Which NEEDLE did they give you?
I'm pretty sure it's a 52 xl. I have the power jet screwed in 3 turns. Hopefully I get a chance to try it out tomorrow.
Do you want my base numbers for a stock motor. Or you want to run what you got first?
-
FYI. They come from Packard set very rich....
Which NEEDLE did they give you?
I'm pretty sure it's a 52 xl. I have the power jet screwed in 3 turns. Hopefully I get a chance to try it out tomorrow.
Do you want my base numbers for a stock motor. Or you want to run what you got first?
That would be great. Thanks. My motors slightly bored with an 88mm piston, Todd did some port work and adjusted the squish. 10mm reed spacer vf2 fatty pipe and turbine core silencer. I have Alex's electronics on it at 87 btdc.
-
Yes. Packard have me the 5.2xl also... But my big bore didn't like it.. (I'm 90mm).
Most k5's at your state of tune end up on a 4-2xl needle set at 2.025" and the power jet set at 1.25-1.75 turns OUT FROM BOTTOM. At sea level
With the big bore (not sure if 88 will make it show up). 90 sure does... You will have a lean spot right off idle (think throttle opening it takes to idle across flat ground in second). That is a bitch to tune out....
Like anything jetting... Use your head.. Don't blow your s**t up because of what some guy on the net said...
-
So the 5-2 was way to rich the way it came. I ended up leaning it out 1.25 turns. I spoke with Packard today. They seemed to think that the 5-2 was the way to go. They said that my foam filter was likely the issue and that I should try a k&n cone filter. I'm going to give it a try. The bike revs really quick but surges pretty bad after I cut the throttle.
-
So the 5-2 was way to rich the way it came. I ended up leaning it out 1.25 turns. I spoke with Packard today. They seemed to think that the 5-2 was the way to go. They said that my foam filter was likely the issue and that I should try a k&n cone filter. I'm going to give it a try. The bike revs really quick but surges pretty bad after I cut the throttle.
What's the measurement on the needle
-
I'm not sure. How do they measure the needle? Is it turns from bottomed out like an airscrew?
-
New filter cam in and its huge
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/566105AC-4AF0-41D9-996C-0A6A075E087C_zpsjwskxysb.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/1142DD91-1DB9-4263-903C-60FAF3022369_zpsqtgrwvzt.jpg)
-
Packard said its a big difference. Said to get rid of the air box all together. Problem is I need a place to keep all the wires from the headlight, horn, and brake light. So I got a bit creative with the dremel and fiberglass
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/659C0035-A6C7-4BCE-A03C-B397F8CE7A7E_zpsupzojmjb.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/patmcgurrin/Mobile%20Uploads/F56AD593-D69A-4140-B4E6-E7273DE46101_zpsvi8bt2pq.jpg)
-
I need one of those filters for my dedicated SM build... 8-)
-
Have a stock 2002 motor with the 40mm Lectron. Had the same issue Motorrad describes here
"Yes. Packard have me the 5.2xl also... But my big bore didn't like it.. (I'm 90mm).
Most k5's at your state of tune end up on a 4-2xl needle set at 2.025" and the power jet set at 1.25-1.75 turns OUT FROM BOTTOM. At sea level
With the big bore (not sure if 88 will make it show up). 90 sure does... You will have a lean spot right off idle (think throttle opening it takes to idle across flat ground in second). That is a bitch to tune out.... "
So tried a 5.3xl...lean spot gone. But too rich everywhere else. Have the power jet at like 7/8ths out...still get slight bogging when putting around then hitting full throttle. Wonder how the 4.2xl would be on stock motor with 40mm?
-
I'm still having some issues. Really hard to start and it won't iddle. I'm circling back to the timing now. The bike has great top but a stumbly low to mid.
-
Hey guys. I still can't get this bike to start so I need some help either fixing the issue or pushing it into the lake.
Motor is completely rebuilt and holds a vacuum
Ignition is power dynamo set at .86 BTDC (had some issues with timing mark but it should be sorted) good spark
Carb is a lectron 44MM
Piston is windowed and Larry's compression release is in
Could the compression release be causing the starting issues? The bike will roll start but wont kick start. I'm confident that I'm kicking hard enough. With out using the comp release the compression is insane and I worry about breaking the lever.
Could the window in the piston be causing the bike to pull in too much fuel?
I know that there's not much else to it. I have spark, gas, compression. Any ideas? I'm starting to hate this bike.
Thanks
-
When you roll start it does it take a while for it to light off, or does it fire right away?
-
my driveway is steep and maybe 20'-30' long. Its usually running by the time I hit the road.
-
I'm just wondering if it is loading up and it takes a second to clear all the fuel before starting. If it bogs for a bit and then fires, it being rich may explain why you can bump start it but not kick start it. How does it run when it finally starts? Is the jetting clean?
I saw you have a lectron, but I didn't see what needle you have. My motor is an 88mm bore, and I am going down in needle from the 5.2 xl to a 3.2 xl on the advice of Dennis at Packard Racing where I bought the carb. Maybe your needle is too large, and/or set too rich initially. Just a thought, I'm sure some of the more seasoned guys might have some better ideas.
-
I think this could be the exact issue. Im also at 88mm. Bike runs rough on the bottom but clears up on the top. My 44mm is from Packard as well and I'm running the 5.2 XL as well. Is this the same issue your having?
-
Mine is just the opposite. It's clean on bottom and ROUGH on top. Did you buy your carb from Packard? If so, Dennis will swap needles with you for free. You just send him yours with return postage and he can get it exchanged.
-
Just saw you said yours was from Packard. Gotta work on those attention span issues. :-D
-
my driveway is steep and maybe 20'-30' long. Its usually running by the time I hit the road.
just curious, what plug you got in there?...and how's it look after running at low rpm?
-
Br8eix iridium that the folks at Penton recommended with their system. The bike doesn't really idle at all but the plug is dark brown / black. I spoke with Dennis Packard (great guy) and he said the 5-2 and the 4-2 needles have the same bottom so there would be no difference starting.
I put the stock ignition back on and got it to start but sheeted the flywheel key as I didn't tighten the flywheel enough so I'm taking a break for now.
-
I asked, because last summer I started running an NGK BP plug(protruded nose plug)...and noticed a big difference in starting, mostly when it's hot...mine's always started 1st kick cold, but would sometimes take 2-3 when it was really hot from running hard in the sand...now it's one kick all the time with the BP.
I'm curious to see if Motorrad will share his thoughts on the BP plug...cause he mentioned in another thread a while back, that he was running em too.
-
I'll give it a try. What is the full plug number?
-
With my recent move I've lost track of all the threads here.
I was reading yours this morning trying to get caught up and saw that you are having a hard time starting your bike.
Try a little experiment.
When it is cold, pull your spark plug out.
Attach the spark plug to the coil.
Hold the electrode of the plug to the side of the engine.
Have someone kick the bike over like they mean business and make sure the electrode is touching the engine case.
Watch and see if it take 5 or 6 kicks before you see any spark.
Let me know what you find.
-
Mzb
-
Mzb
I'd like to rule it out before he wears his kicker out or gets mad and chucks it off a hill while trying different things :lol:
-
I thought he already had an MZB hooked up...maybe not. :?
-
Hey guys. I have a visible spark from the plug just by moving the kicker with my hand. Ce had some issues with the mzb timing and was able to get the bike kick started with stock electrical after maybe 20 kicks. But then the fly wheel key sheared as I was a bone head and didn't tighten the fly wheel enough. My plan is to first get a new key and then dial the bike in with stock ignition. The lectron tuning and mzb settings at the same time make it difficult.
-
So New key. Stock ignition back in. Middle timing mark. Verified spark. Verified gas 40:1. Bike will not kick start.
I am getting a good kick with the compression release. Without it the compression is ridiculous. My friend Dan also has a kx500 without the compression release and we can both kick start that no issues. Its stock but in good shape. Could the compression release be causing the starting issues? Could my motor have too much compression (too much compression!, what does this question say about my manhood?)? I know Todd did some work to the head? Could the window in the piston be causing some fuel issues? The spark plug is wet and after 10 or so kicks I can smell gas. I've tried choke, no choke, primer kicks, no gas, some gas, fill gas, roll on gas. I'm really getting frustrated and sure appreciate the help.
-
I know you said you've verified spark....you could try disconnecting the kill switch, and also a new plug....maybe even try an NGK B8ES.
may not help...but at least you can rule them out.
-
Thanks for the input Fox. I've tried a few different plugs including the b8es. MZB recommends the iridium version and it seemed to have the biggest visual spark. as for the kill switch I have 2 and have switched it out already thinking it could be an intermittent failure...didn't seem to help.
-
another thing I myself would try, just to see if it made a difference....would be another carb, like the stocker (if you have access to one)...just to see...if it starts, then you'll know it's your Lectron that needs fine tuning...
and if it doesn't start, that'll be another thing you can rule out.
-
Thanks Fox. We think alike. I had a stocker on there and was having the issues so I decided to try the lectron to see if it helped.