KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: stig on June 24, 2013, 07:18:17 AM
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Just acquired a KX125 1991 H2 model that needed work.
from the start....
kick start splines knackered so removed outer casing to access gear. Had to remove clutch basket to do this. Dont know if clutch was OK before tearing it down so cant say if it was OK or not. I kept the whole clutch basket assembled, undone the centre main nut and slid the whole lot off the spline, swapped over the kick gear and reassembled the whole cluch in one onto its spline, tightened the centre nut, spings with cover plate centre pin and bearing carrier? before installing the outer case & adjusting cable
Issue is...clutch wont disengage
Q1, according to the manual parts diagram there might be a washer between the bearing carrier and centre pin...theres not on this bike..is it missing or is there not supposed to be one
I've tried rotating the clutch arm to the max with grips...still doesnt disengege
Does anyone have a picture of the clutch when assembled so i know how it SHOULD look
any help appreciated
Thanks
Paul
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b250/stigsdump/KX125/KXclutchparts.jpg) (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/stigsdump/media/KX125/KXclutchparts.jpg.html)
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I cant believe with 2500+ members i've not had a single response...theres more chance of a reply in the local morgue :?
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Hi Paul.
The dead have arisen... sorta...
The problem is most guys aren't taking pics of stuff as they are disassembling it.
It simply ads time to what they are trying to do.
I'll see if I have some pics of the parts you are looking for.
They will be disassembled but may help you see what may or may not be missing.
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Ok, I had a better pic then I thought but it is disassembled.
You might check it out and see if anything you have is missing.
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Thanks...seems I have all the correct pieces
order of install goes like so..
washer already on shaft against bearing
2 no roller bearings on inner sleeve
outer basket
washer
inner spring carrier
clutch plates/steels (fibre first and last)
outer hub
nut
springs
spring cover
bolts
thrust bearing carrier
centre pin
all tightened to specs, case replaced, cable hooed up at approx 90 degrees to arm
Pull clutch lever in, everything moves but clutch doesnt disengage :cry:. It'll change gear OK and wheel rotates in neutral
am I missing something. Assembled this several times but no change
My lad says that it worked when he first got the bike as thats how he found out the engine was blowing water out the exhaust (after top half strip, later found the O ring missing between the main casing and the right hand side cover...probably letting water into the bottom end and then bypassing the transfers to be blown out the exhaust)
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So... you move the lever and you can see everything moving in the clutch... Do the plates separate?
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not quite sure how to check this when its all reassembled (so the arm works)
With the casing off and springs out, the plates slide back and forth OK
There were some grooves on the main basket so i've cleaned them up after ready posts across the web. Being as it worked before and i've not changed anything its got me stumped.......
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How many metal and fiber plates do you have?
Also, do you have a pic of the basket ears?
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i'll have to take pics tomorrow, camera battery flat. Also casing on at present so need to disassemble AGAIN :-( LOL
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make sure that basket and hub of the clutch are free rotating against if you installed it without pressure plate and clutch plates...
i had this problem on my old k5 engine: assembled the engine like it was as i disassembled it. couldnt do the first ride, cause the clutch dont worked and engine died! i threw the bike on the left side and again to the clutch...
i found out this: the bushing of the long needle bearing that makes the space between basket and hub was simply a little bit to short ! and so the basket was not able to rotate free when pulling the clutch lever and the plates were also disengaged i made a 1mm spacer with the inner and outer diameter of this bushing and the problem was gone... :-D
i think you should take a look at this... :-)
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make sure that basket and hub of the clutch are free rotating against if you installed it without pressure plate and clutch plates...
i had this problem on my old k5 engine: assembled the engine like it was as i disassembled it. couldnt do the first ride, cause the clutch dont worked and engine died! i threw the bike on the left side and again to the clutch...
i found out this: the bushing of the long needle bearing that makes the space between basket and hub was simply a little bit to short ! and so the basket was not able to rotate free when pulling the clutch lever and the plates were also disengaged i made a 1mm spacer with the inner and outer diameter of this bushing and the problem was gone... :-D
i think you should take a look at this... :-)
Without checking til I get home from work later I think youre onto something there. It sounds exactly right. Where on the parts diagram did you install the spacer?
much appreciated! 8-)
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i installed the spacer first on the shaft before istalling the bushing bearing and the whole clutch assembly ... i hope i could help solving your problem... :-)
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i installed the spacer first on the shaft before istalling the bushing bearing and the whole clutch assembly ... i hope i could help solving your problem... :-)
YOU SIR ARE A STAR!...clutch sorted with spacer and a bit of adjustment on the cable. Cant understand why it worked before disassembly and not afterwards :|
Just need to get the d**n thing to start now!. Got compression, fuel (wet plug) and a good spark but will it fire...will it F@*k...even tried bumping it til i'm about to keel over :-D
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Dirty carb? Clogged choke or clogged pilot jet? Old premix in the tank? Clogged air filter? Is the air filter in good shape?
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Dirty carb? Clogged choke or clogged pilot jet? Old premix in the tank? Clogged air filter? Is the air filter in good shape?
Are you sure your on the right thread? :-)
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i installed the spacer first on the shaft before istalling the bushing bearing and the whole clutch assembly ... i hope i could help solving your problem... :-)
YOU SIR ARE A STAR!...clutch sorted with spacer and a bit of adjustment on the cable. Cant understand why it worked before disassembly and not afterwards :|
Just need to get the d**n thing to start now!. Got compression, fuel (wet plug) and a good spark but will it fire...will it F@*k...even tried bumping it til i'm about to keel over :-D
wet plug is a sign of too rich adjustment on the carb, but my question in first: did the engine run before you worked on the clutch??... and before changing any jets, make sure that the crankcase is not half full with gas. i do a simple method: close the petcock, drain the carb, pull the plug . than throttle fully open and one finger with a towel on the sparkplug-hole for soft pressure and pumping with the kickstarter the engine dry inside.
if the engine is clean, try the normal starting procedur.
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Dirty carb? Clogged choke or clogged pilot jet? Old premix in the tank? Clogged air filter? Is the air filter in good shape?
Are you sure your on the right thread? :-)
Pretty sure. :-D The clutch issue seems to be sorted out, but now the bike won't fire.
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Dirty carb? Clogged choke or clogged pilot jet? Old premix in the tank? Clogged air filter? Is the air filter in good shape?
Are you sure your on the right thread? :-)
Pretty sure. :-D The clutch issue seems to be sorted out, but now the bike won't fire.
i think we dont have to wait long time to hear the engine running... :-D
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Dirty carb? Clogged choke or clogged pilot jet? Old premix in the tank? Clogged air filter? Is the air filter in good shape?
Are you sure your on the right thread? :-)
Pretty sure. :-D The clutch issue seems to be sorted out, but now the bike won't fire.
Doah!
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Thanks for the help folks but i'll have to put this on hold over the weekend as my lads moving house. Its all hand to the pumps and then playtime afterwards.
I'll check the carb settings etc and get back to you.
and yes, clutch issue resolved 8-) THANK YOU!
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:-D... little help = big finish... :-D
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Well sorry for the delay in getting back to you but things got put on hold as i've spent all my spare time working at my lads new home getting them settled.
In the meantime....
a few nights back I ordered a new plug and plug cap, remade the end of the HT lead.
I then dismantled the carb and treated it to a sonic cleaner. Checked all the jets were good and clear, needle undamaged and reassembled. Set the air screw to 1 and half turns as per the manual.
Again today we tried to get it going...still no go. I want to try to bump it down the raod as we live on a hill but the bikes too high for me as i'm only a short R's at 5' 6" and dont fancy my chances jumping aboard and then trying to stop upright whether it fires or not
Have checked and theres def a good spark and fuels getting through leaving the plug wet after prolonged kicking
running outta ideas now :|
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Check the flywheel to make sure the key has not sheared, it has been know to happen. Fuel and spark should equal run unless they happen at the wrong time, also check the reeds, they could be an issue.
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Check the flywheel to make sure the key has not sheared, it has been know to happen. Fuel and spark should equal run unless they happen at the wrong time, also check the reeds, they could be an issue.
and also lay the bike for a short time to the left side to float the carb before first cold start...
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Thanks folks for all the assistance. Its running!!!!! RESULT
Tried several things over the last few nights...double checked the carb settings inc set float height
double checked wiring and found a dodgy connector so remade that. removed flywheel to find key helf missing so made a new one and cleaned up the mating surfaces on the crank end so its a snug fit, checked the reeds were OK
Tonight when my lad came around and I had a second set of hands so managed to check things out whilst he turned it over. Reassembled everything and gave it a try...3 kicks and it burst into life
Not quite sure which of the bits were at fault and actually causing the problem but if I had to make a guess it'd be the wiring or the timing/flywheel seating
BTW, if anyone needs a pdf copy of the 1991 125/250 H2 workshop manual I have one...give me a shout and i'll host it for download (if thats allowed on the forum, if not admin please remove this comment)