KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: MXonaKawi on June 20, 2013, 03:27:10 PM
-
I was thinking about buying a replacement carb on ebay brand new. My 00' KX 125 uses a Mikuni TMX35. The original seemed to work fine before I took the bike apart and the previous owner told me that he had just rebuilt it. But it's scratched (i know thats a silly reason but I want everything to have that showroom shine on this rebuild) and since it's a pretty important part, I figured I can't go wrong for $150 for a brand new one that I can jet to my ideal settings with no scratches. What are your thoughts?
-
I'm pretty sure, like almost poitive that the 00 kx125 used a kehin carb, I don't think they went to the Mikuni till 03. In 03 they did not use the TPS or power jet, from 99-02 they did
-
I have an '00 KX 125, so I can say for sure that it comes with a Keihin PWK Power Jet carb.
I believe the '01 and '02 models came with Mikuni TMX carburetors--check out JD Jetting's website to find out for sure.
My experience with the PWK Power Jet carburetor has been good so far. I don't see any reason to swap it out. Once I found the right jetting, I haven't had to mess with it. The jetting's "sweet spot" seems to cover quite a range of altitudes and weather conditions.
-
I have an '00 KX 125, so I can say for sure that it comes with a Keihin PWK Power Jet carb.
I believe the '01 and '02 models came with Mikuni TMX carburetors--check out JD Jetting's website to find out for sure.
My experience with the PWK Power Jet carburetor has been good so far. I don't see any reason to swap it out. Once I found the right jetting, I haven't had to mess with it. The jetting's "sweet spot" seems to cover quite a range of altitudes and weather conditions.
Hmmmm interesting. I mean who knows what was done in the 13 years before I had it. But when I got it, it had the mikuni. I found some recommended jetting from motocross action mag for my bike so thats how i'm planning on jetting it. Except I'm going to jet down the main jet because I am putting a boyesen rad valve on there and that is what all the reviews said to do for it.
Keep in mind I haven't ridden in 10 years and haven't ridden this bike yet and won't ride it until the rebuild is complete and back together so it's not like I have any settings yet. I need to figure out the settings in order to get it going then I can dial them in from there to preference.
-
I only read one jetting recommendation from Motocross Action for the 2000 KX 125, and it had to do with the Keihin PWK. You may have read the same one. Keep in mind that if you have a Mikuni, the main jet numbers are going to be completely different.
So if you've got a Mikuni TMX, you might do well to get a JD Jetting kit for an '01-'02 KX 125, since that's quite likely what the Mikuni could be from. I would double-check the bore size and the slide number to make sure that you've got a KX 125-spec carb.
Besides JD Jetting, Sudco is a great resource for carburetor parts and expertise.
It sounds like you're in a similar place to where I was, being off the bike for an extended period and then doing a rebuild before beginning to ride again. I went through my bike pretty thoroughly (thoroughly--not completely) before I rode it, and the effort was worth the trouble. It's been very reliable, and I've since been busy improving the performance little by little.
When's your first ride? Do you have a race or an event you're working toward?
-
looked on the fiche, mikuni came in 01, Kehin up to 00
-
I only read one jetting recommendation from Motocross Action for the 2000 KX 125, and it had to do with the Keihin PWK. You may have read the same one. Keep in mind that if you have a Mikuni, the main jet numbers are going to be completely different.
So if you've got a Mikuni TMX, you might do well to get a JD Jetting kit for an '01-'02 KX 125, since that's quite likely what the Mikuni could be from. I would double-check the bore size and the slide number to make sure that you've got a KX 125-spec carb.
Besides JD Jetting, Sudco is a great resource for carburetor parts and expertise.
It sounds like you're in a similar place to where I was, being off the bike for an extended period and then doing a rebuild before beginning to ride again. I went through my bike pretty thoroughly (thoroughly--not completely) before I rode it, and the effort was worth the trouble. It's been very reliable, and I've since been busy improving the performance little by little.
When's your first ride? Do you have a race or an event you're working toward?
Yea I have never ridden the bike, only started it. I am not planning on racing it. I just plan on riding at tracks and racing against my own lap times haha. But when I'm out there I'll be the MX announcer in my helmet and Carmichael will be right behind me, gaining on me each lap! Haha. I am going through every part of the bike and replacing every bolt and many of the parts. I love the 99-02 KX 125's and they obv don't make them anymore. So I figured I could build a 90% brand new one that will last me about 6 or 7 maybe more years. Glad to hear that the effort is worth the trouble. I know it will be worth the elbow grease when it's done and the process is exciting. it's like Xmas every time I get a new part in the mail. First ride will probably be early 2014 at the soonest. I am going to get an enclosed trailer, and make it my bike shop inside and also keep the bike in there as well as transport it. It's going to take a bit to get everything all sorted out, but it will be worth it when it's done.
As for the carb, I think I want to start with a brand new one and start from a clean slate. Now the only question is...do I get the Keihin stock one or another Mikuni TMX?
-
If you have the wiring harness to support the Keihin then that carb makes a lot of sense. If not, I'd say go with the Mikuni.
For the electronic version of the Keihin PWK to work correctly, you should have a connection for the throttle position sensor (TPS) and for the Power Jet solenoid.
I've had really good luck with my Keihin PWK, although I did have to change the jetting from what was in the manual. I have heard the Mikuni TMX is harder to jet correctly, but I haven't had personal experience with this.
I saw your rebuild thread--the bike looks good!
-
If you have the wiring harness to support the Keihin then that carb makes a lot of sense. If not, I'd say go with the Mikuni.
For the electronic version of the Keihin PWK to work correctly, you should have a connection for the throttle position sensor (TPS) and for the Power Jet solenoid.
I've had really good luck with my Keihin PWK, although I did have to change the jetting from what was in the manual. I have heard the Mikuni TMX is harder to jet correctly, but I haven't had personal experience with this.
I saw your rebuild thread--the bike looks good!
Thanks man!
-
Ok so the stock 2000 KX 125 Carb is a Keihin but which model is it? Is it the PWK36? I'm guessing the jetting I have written down from the old MXA article is for this carb, and since I've heard that Keihin's are easier to jet, this might be my best bet. I can sell my Mikuni TMX35 on ebay and get a brand new Keihin. However, it's $230 brand new on ebay and the Mikuni TMX35 is $150 brand new on ebay. I'm wondering if I should save $80 bucks and figure out the jetting on my own with the Mikuni lol.
Thoughts?
My dilemma is #1 - price and #2 - they obviously switched to the TMX in 01' for a reason and there was a problem with the jetting in 00', but does a problem with the jetting mean a problem with the carb? Not really right? You can always adjust the jetting, correct?
Help!
-
It's worth noting that Kawasaki used the Keihin Power Jet carb on the KX 250 two-stroke all the way up to 2007.
I'm not sure why the carb brand switch was made in 2001.
Do you have the wiring/sensor connections to support the Keihin Power Jet carb? You probably do, but should make sure before buying a Keihin Power Jet carb.
The model is the Keihin PWK36S.
Here are my jetting specs:
158 main
42 power jet
N7NW needle (stock) in second clip from the top
40 pilot jet
Air screw adjustment is about two turns out.
I am in SoCal and ride between roughly sea level (Ocotillo Wells) and 5,000 feet (Cajon Pass area).
Fuel is 100 octane race gas (available at the pump at selected stations) mixed at 32:1 with Maxima Super M.
So that's one base line which may help you...your jetting may vary :-D.
-
It's worth noting that Kawasaki used the Keihin Power Jet carb on the KX 250 two-stroke all the way up to 2007.
I'm not sure why the carb brand switch was made in 2001.
Do you have the wiring/sensor connections to support the Keihin Power Jet carb? You probably do, but should make sure before buying a Keihin Power Jet carb.
The model is the Keihin PWK36S.
Here are my jetting specs:
158 main
42 power jet
N7NW needle (stock) in second clip from the top
40 pilot jet
Air screw adjustment is about two turns out.
I am in SoCal and ride between roughly sea level (Ocotillo Wells) and 5,000 feet (Cajon Pass area).
Fuel is 100 octane race gas (available at the pump at selected stations) mixed at 32:1 with Maxima Super M.
So that's one base line which may help you...your jetting may vary :-D.
How come your running a 42 power jet? Stock is 50 I think right?
-
The 42 power jet was recommended by Motocross Action, so I changed that right off the bat.
The other specs listed are mine based on the ride-and-feel method (aka trial and error) but oddly enough they coincide with the Australian model 2000 KX 125. European, U.S., and Australian specs are listed in the factory service manual.
-
It's worth noting that Kawasaki used the Keihin Power Jet carb on the KX 250 two-stroke all the way up to 2007.
I'm not sure why the carb brand switch was made in 2001.
Do you have the wiring/sensor connections to support the Keihin Power Jet carb? You probably do, but should make sure before buying a Keihin Power Jet carb.
The model is the Keihin PWK36S.
Here are my jetting specs:
158 main
42 power jet
N7NW needle (stock) in second clip from the top
40 pilot jet
Air screw adjustment is about two turns out.
I am in SoCal and ride between roughly sea level (Ocotillo Wells) and 5,000 feet (Cajon Pass area).
Fuel is 100 octane race gas (available at the pump at selected stations) mixed at 32:1 with Maxima Super M.
So that's one base line which may help you...your jetting may vary :-D.
Hey man thanks a million for this info. I am in SoCal too and I will mostly ride tracks like Milestone, Piru, Gorman, Motoplex, Pala, Perris, Racetown 395 etc. Can you snap a quick pic of the wiring/sensor connections? I'm not sure if I have them.
I will most likely run 100 octane gas as well if I can find it. I live in Studio City. I am going to run Klotz Benol. Should I mix 32:1 as well?
-
Here's a link for race gas at the pump:
http://www.davebarton.com/Unleaded_Racing_Fuel_in_SoCal
I have bought race gas from Arroyo Parkway Union 76 in Pasadena and at Mark's Union 76 in Fullerton. Both of those stations are listed on Dave Barton's site. I'm not sure about the others listed.
Yes, definitely mix at 32:1. If you choose a different mixing ratio none of the listed jetting specs will apply.
I'll get that photo for you later on tonight.
-
Here's a link for race gas at the pump:
http://www.davebarton.com/Unleaded_Racing_Fuel_in_SoCal
I have bought race gas from Arroyo Parkway Union 76 in Pasadena and at Mark's Union 76 in Fullerton. Both of those stations are listed on Dave Barton's site. I'm not sure about the others listed.
Yes, definitely mix at 32:1. If you choose a different mixing ratio none of the listed jetting specs will apply.
I'll get that photo for you later on tonight.
More great info. Thanks again. Looking forward to that pic!
-
These three photos show the wiring for the fuel cut solenoid. There's a tab on the frame to hold the connector, and you'll find a receiver for this tab molded into the connector housing.
It might look like this wiring goes to the throttle sensor (which you can see in the first photo) but it does not. Instead, it wraps around the carburetor body to the opposite/right side where the fuel cut solenoid is located.
-
Here's the connector for the throttle sensor. It's found just ahead of the airbox pass-through grommet. There's no frame tab for this one, as the connector just kind of floats above the airboot.
In general, the wiring is such that you can't connect it the wrong way once it's laid out on the frame. Incorrect connections either have differently-shaped connectors or they simply won't reach.
-
Great photos! That looks completely different than my setup to my eyes. Might just be my naiveity though.
Here are my photos. The first one shows where the throttle tube connects to the carburetor.
The second one shows that grey connector that comes out of the clutch cover.
The third one shows that black electronic box (what is it called? generator?) and it's connection to the other end of the grey connector that clipts onto the frame tab.
-
There's a frame-mounted tab for the stator-to-ignition module connector. That one is further up the frame rail toward the steering head. The connector has four wires.
I took this photo during my teardown, and it shows the connector in question.
The Keihin PWK Power Jet carb uses a second frame-mounted connector for the throttle position sensor, as you saw in my photos. This connector has two wires.
You might have an easier time determining what you've got by setting the engine into the frame and seeing how well the wiring reaches.
-
Can you snap a pic of the complete wiring harness (the section with the black box) laid out on the floor? That way we'll be able to see the whole harness.
-
Can you snap a pic of the complete wiring harness (the section with the black box) laid out on the floor? That way we'll be able to see the whole harness.
Here it is!
-
Comparing that to the diagrams of the '99-'00 harness (Keihin PWK Power Jet) and the '01-'02 (Mikuni TMX) I'm positive you've got an '01-'02 harness.
I think your best bet is to run it as-is with the Mikuni. JD Jetting offers a jetting kit for the '01-'02 Mikuni-equipped KX 125's. I'd get one of those to eliminate a lot of guesswork and frustration. The factory service manual specifies a 32:1 mixing ratio for the '99-'02 model years that are covered in the manual.
Unsolicited spark plug info:
The NGK BR9EIX is specified, but you can also run the NGK BR9ES which is about a third of the price. I've swapped between the expensive BR9EIX and the economical BR9ES and I can't tell the difference.
-
On our engines, the case reed configuration puts the bottom of the carb very close to the cases. My bike came with a small rubber pad that fits between the carb's float bowl plug and the case. From the photos, I couldn't tell if your engine cases have it or not. If not, I would get one from your local Kawi dealer.
It also looks like you could use a new throttle cable. Make sure the rubber boot gets pushed all the way to the top of the carb so it seals the throttle cable housing and the top of the carb. Left without the boot, it's a perfect place for dirt to get in.
That's just going off of the photos. If the cable looks good up close (along with the condition of the boot) then you can definitely run it.
-
Thanks man. Ok I'm going to stick with the Mikuni then. If I buy a brand new Mikuni TMX35 off ebay will I still need a jetting kit? If so, then I will grab one of them as well.
-I am definitely going to get a new throttle tube, and cable.
-I'll look into that rubber pad as well.
-Can you explain which part is the 'harness'?
-
The main wiring harness is everything immediately connected to that rectangular black ignition control box.
I have a longer answer concerning your carburetor but will have to post it later when I have more time.
-
The main wiring harness is everything immediately connected to that rectangular black ignition control box.
I have a longer answer concerning your carburetor but will have to post it later when I have more time.
Sounds good bro! Thanks looking forward to more insight!
-
My question is: what's wrong with your current carburetor?
If it's in bad shape, I can see needing a new one. Of course, it's your bike and your call.
The '01 KX 125 used a Mikuni TMX36, while the '02 went with a Mikuni TMX38. Most 125's use a 36mm carb. Theoretically, a 38mm will provide better top end power but at the expense of low- and mid-range power. So I'd go with a 36 for better all-around performance.
'01 carb specs per the Kawasaki service manual (Kawasaki p/n 99924-1244-04)
Mikuni TMX36
Main jet: #360
Throttle valve cutaway: #5.5
Jet needle: 6BEF16-69
Jet needle clip position: 4th groove from the top
Slow jet/pilot jet: #50
Air screw (turns out): 2.0
Service fuel level (above the bottom edge of the carb body): 3mm plus or minus 1mm
Float height: 15mm plus or minus 1mm
The stock specs are a starting point. Odds are that you'll have to do some further tuning, which brings us to the JD Jetting kit.
The value of the JD Jetting kit (which I still think is a good idea) is the research and development that went into it. JD's R&D can save a lot of guesswork and frustration.
If you keep your existing carburetor I would also purchase new gaskets for the top of the carb and for the float bowl. If the carb top gasket leaks you'll be leaking extra air into the engine which will make it run lean and in turn risk a seizure. If the float bowl gasket leaks you'll be dribbling fuel all over the cases: flammable and messy!
-
Final thought for now:
Since you're planning to replace your throttle, I'll throw my two cents in:
I replaced my stock throttle assembly with a quick-turn throttle from G2 Ergonomics. The machined aluminum throttle tube is nice, but the bigger benefit is that you won't have to twist your wrist as far to get the throttle wide open. You won't have to "re-grip" the throttle as you go from low to mid to WFO.
The quality is impeccable and the staff is pleasant to deal with.
www.g2ergo.com
-
As far as I know...nothing is wrong with my current carb. It's a little scraped up which honestly bothers me a bit but not enough to replace it. However, that is not my main reason for wanting to swap it out. My main reason is that I want this bike to be as "brand new" as possible for a 13 year old bike. So, if I can get an important part like that brand new for $150 bucks...it seems to me like a small price to pay for peace of mind as far as my carb goes. The more brand new parts I put on this bike, theoretically, the less parts I will have to comb through if there are any issues when the build is done.
i.e. If the bike doesn't run or start once it's all back together, I'll know it's not the carb (theoretically). Either that or I don't know wtf I'm doing as far as jetting. But you know what I mean.
I want this bike to run as if it were 2000 and I just bought it brand new. And I want it to last for a good 6 or 7 years.
Also, to me, there is something exciting about starting from a clean slate. When I got the bike it looked like someone mistreated it for a long time and I personally have a thing for new, shiny, mint condition things haha (I'm kind of anal retentive)
Starting with a brand new carb out of the box, ordering the jetting kit, jetting it to whatever specs we find suitable, and then putting it on the bike just makes it more gratifying when I stand back and stare at my finished product for 2139808124 hours. haha
-
Fair enough!
Make sure you get the correct slide (listed as "throttle valve cutaway" in the specs) because that's something that probably won't need replacing, and is an expensive part to purchase if you accidentally end up with the wrong one.
Your bike is gonna look awesome when it's done!
Looks like you got an FMF Turbinecore 2 silencer/spark arrestor with the bike. That's a valuable item. If you get a Green Sticker to go with it, you'll be able to ride in any OHV area during any month of the year. If you ride the Quail Canyon/I-5 MX track in Gorman, you'll be able to ride right into the Gorman OHV area if you have a Green Sticker and spark arrestor.
One of the best things about building a '00 bike is that it's eligible for a Green Sticker. Even though you're primarily planning to ride the tracks, it's nice to have options.
How are your wheels? I ask because I have several seized spokes on mine. The aluminum spoke nipples seized themselves onto the steel spoke threads. I know I'll have to replace the spokes (possibly rims, too) sooner or later.
-
Should I get that slide even with a brand new carb?
Thanks man! I'm hoping so.
I did get the bike with that silencer but I sold it on ebay. I'm gonna pro-circuit the bike out with an r-304 shorty most likely but I've been thinking about the factory sound as well.
I already got it registered so my green sticker is all ready to go!
I was at Gorman yesterday! It was my first time riding a bike in 10 years so I rented a CRF250X and taught my gf how to ride on a 150. It was awesome. It's less than an hour from me.
Exactly I wanted the option to do that. In addition to liking the style of the 99-02 KX's better than the 03-present, I figured I'd want to keep that option open.
Well the rims look in decent condition. The tires are shot. When I get done with the chassis, I'll be getting brand new tires. I am going to get my hubs powder coated, and possibly my rims powder coated chrome. My spokes look a little rusty and old, so those will most likely get replaced. The sprocket and brake rotor are both stuck on the hubs though. The allen head is stripped on the final bolt on the sprocket and I can't get any of the bolts loose on the rotor.
It might actually be cheaper to just get a full custom wheel set from dubya (rims, spokes, hubs, rotors, sprockets, and tires included) or something like that and skip the hassle. I'm not sure yet. I want to see how deep I am in budget wise by the time I get to the wheels. Those are going to be the last stop on this train. haha
-
You might be able to specify that slide with your new carb. It's worth asking about.
Pro Circuit makes a Nature Friendly spark arrestor for our bikes, and you'll need a spark arrestor to ride at Gorman. You could get both a 304 silencer and a Nature Friendly spark arrestor and swap them out as needed.
Wheel-wise, Faster USA www.fasterusa.com has some options (CNC machined hubs, for one) that are cheaper than the Talon hubs that Dubya sells. Don't get me wrong: I'd love to have a set of Talon hubs!
-
I'll definitely keep that in mind when ordering the new TMX.
Yea I'll have to do that then. Too bad I sold the FMF. Is that what they check for at the guard gate on the way in? I saw them checking something on the quads in front of me on the way in.
Wow those are some pretty sweet wheels. Expensive too! I really wanted to keep the stockers because 1) the u-shape does not collect dirt/mud like the aftermarket ones with the lip and 2) they are part of the old KX's uniqueness and I want to stay true to the beauty of the stock bike in as many ways as possible. But if the rims appear bent at all once I have them off the tires, I may have to go aftermarket and this site you provided looks like a great place to start!
-
You can get replacement spoke sets that will fit the stock hubs and rims.
Faster USA probably has them, and I believe RK Excel will, too.
www.rkexcelamerica.com
Yes, there's a tool they sometimes use at the Gorman entrance station to check for a spark arrestor. It's not much more than a wire of a certain length, but they'll insert it into your exhaust to make sure there's a spark arrestor inside.
Too bad you sold the TurbineCore, but on the positive side, Pro Circuit's Nature Friendly spark arrestor will be a perfect match to your P.C. pipe.
-
Awesome good to know!
Yep I saw them poking with that wire. I was like wtf is that thing they are poking with? How intrusive lol
Yea the P.C. will be awesome!
-
My question is: what's wrong with your current carburetor?
If it's in bad shape, I can see needing a new one. Of course, it's your bike and your call.
The '01 KX 125 used a Mikuni TMX36, while the '02 went with a Mikuni TMX38. Most 125's use a 36mm carb. Theoretically, a 38mm will provide better top end power but at the expense of low- and mid-range power. So I'd go with a 36 for better all-around performance.
'01 carb specs per the Kawasaki service manual (Kawasaki p/n 99924-1244-04)
Mikuni TMX36
Main jet: #360
Throttle valve cutaway: #5.5
Jet needle: 6BEF16-69
Jet needle clip position: 4th groove from the top
Slow jet/pilot jet: #50
Air screw (turns out): 2.0
Service fuel level (above the bottom edge of the carb body): 3mm plus or minus 1mm
Float height: 15mm plus or minus 1mm
The stock specs are a starting point. Odds are that you'll have to do some further tuning, which brings us to the JD Jetting kit.
The value of the JD Jetting kit (which I still think is a good idea) is the research and development that went into it. JD's R&D can save a lot of guesswork and frustration.
If you keep your existing carburetor I would also purchase new gaskets for the top of the carb and for the float bowl. If the carb top gasket leaks you'll be leaking extra air into the engine which will make it run lean and in turn risk a seizure. If the float bowl gasket leaks you'll be dribbling fuel all over the cases: flammable and messy!
Kevin...I can't find any new Mikuni TMX 36's on ebay man.
This is all I found
http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=mikuni+tmx36&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#client=safari&rls=en&tbm=shop&sclient=psy-ab&q=mikuni+tmx+36+carburetor&oq=mikuni+tmx+36+carburetor&gs_l=serp.3...9879.10515.7.10680.4.4.0.0.0.1.236.429.3j0j1.4.0....0...1c.1.23.psy-ab..7.11.690.iAFMHKJPZDU&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.50165853%2Cd.cGE%2Cpv.xjs.s.en_US.seW1cfrvSKg.O&fp=3c61165ce2ca811f&biw=1021&bih=589
-
That looks like a pretty good selection.
Just be aware that you might have to purchase some additional internal parts in order to get the carb into factory specs and/or the right tune.
-
Ok thats not a problem. By internal parts you mean the jetting kit you mentioned before right?
My only issue is that these are TM 36 carbs and not TMX 36 carbs. Not sure if the X makes a difference.
-
Or possibly a slide, which wouldn't be part of a JD Jetting kit.
Why don't you check with Sudco about a complete TMX carb? Motorcycle carburetors are their specialty and they're local to both of us. You could either go and pick your stuff up at the Will Call desk or get it shipped.
www.sudco.com
(800) 998-3529
Final thought: are you dead positive you've got a 2000 and not an '01? Your DMV title/pink slip will have the year model listed. You can also tell by the frame's VIN number--I think Sandblaster may have a reference table of VINs and model years.
I just think it's weird that someone would have gone to the trouble of swapping the carburetor as well as the wiring.
-
VIN: JKAKXRLCXYA014759\
Engine #: KX125LE017088
Title says year model 2000 Kawas
-
I can't remember the name of it, but what do you guys think about that new carb that came out that you don't have to jet. It self adjusts and is supposed to put out more power.
Last I saw it was backordered and costs $375. I'm currently searching for it.
-
Chassis is a 2000 but you have something wrong with your VIN number..... Don't correct it, posting good VINs is a bad thing...
The engine ID is from a 99-02.
You can verify the cylinder from the 4 digit code embossed on the side.
A 2000 should be 1921.
If it's something else let me know.
-
http://www.powerapt.com/smartcarb.php
Here it is. Anyone have any thoughts on these? I'm interested in one if it does what they claim.
-
That's the first I've seen of it. Looks promising! Swapping jets is a huge pain.
-
Chassis is a 2000 but you have something wrong with your VIN number..... Don't correct it, posting good VINs is a bad thing...
The engine ID is from a 99-02.
You can verify the cylinder from the 4 digit code embossed on the side.
A 2000 should be 1921.
If it's something else let me know.
Cylinder code is 1921. Whats wrong with my VIN? It matches the title. I was able to register it.
-
I ran that number you posted at Kawasaki's website and it's not a registered valid number.
I'm guessing you have one bad number transposed :lol:
Check it here:
http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentURL=/SITE/VIVEHICLEINFORMATION/VICHOOSEVEHICLE.ASP (http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentURL=/SITE/VIVEHICLEINFORMATION/VICHOOSEVEHICLE.ASP)
-
Oooops I didn't mean to include that backslash in the VIN.
-
Hey all! So I have contacted Sudco and JD Jetting for advice on this.
Sudco is recommending a PWK36 not the stock short version that came with the bike though. So it would have to be jetted differently and doesn't perform as highly as the PWK36S. They will sell me the PWK36 fully jetted and ready to go for $286.65. About $30-40 less than the PWK36S would cost me from an OEM site.
JD Jetting is recommending a PWK Air Striker 38mm carb. They haven't given me a price yet, but I don't really want a carb that big for my 125 and I know that carb will enhance top end. I'd prefer a carb that gave me extra bottom.
I am really starting to wonder if I have a 2001 engine in this bike, and all this Keihin research is for nothing. That would really solve the mystery of why I currently have a TMX, and would really solve my problem altogether.
Thoughts?
-
BUMP!
-
2000 kx125 pic and parts id
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/images/Kawasaki_kx125_2000.jpg)
carb: KEIHIN PWK G523
cdi: DENSO 071000-1600 21119-1547
cylinder: 1921 11005-1921
fly wheel: DENSO 032000-9
Forks: KYB - USD - K312-L K312-R - 46MM CHROME OD - C/L 37 1/2" - UPPER 54.9MM - LOWER 58.4MM - C/L CALIPER MOUNT 102MM - AXLE 25MM & 20MM
Front axle:
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=50)
Front hub: F-1249 - 20MM AXLE DIA - BRG TO BRG 90MM - ROTOR 4 BOLTS ON A 115MM BC- FITS 99-02 KX125 & 250
Head: 1532 11001-1532
Kick lever:
(http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu165/oemcycle/KX125%20KAWASAKI%201999/KX125KAWASAKI2002KICKLEVERMEASUREMENTS.jpg)
Rear Axle:
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=1484)
Rear hub: R-1287 - GRAY - 20MM AXLE - BRG TO BRG 130MM - ROTOR OD 220MM - ROTOR BC 6X ON 116MM - 36 SPOKES - SPROCKET BC 6X ON 150MM - FITS 99-02 KX125, 250 - 3 BRG
Shock: SPRING THICKNESS: 11.5MM OD - SPRING DIAMETER: 88MM - EYE TO EYE 454MM (17 7/8") - CHROME OD 16MM - BODY OD 53.6MM - UPPER MOUNT TAB THICKNESS: 25MM - UPPER MOUNT TAB HOLE ID: 10MM - LOWER MOUNT MAJOR WIDTH: 40.0MM - LOWER MOUNT MINOR WIDTH: 37.36MM - LOWER MOUNT HOLE ID: 10MM
Shock arm:
(http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu165/oemcycle/KX125%20KAWASAKI%202001/SHOCKARMLINKAGE.jpg)
Pivot pin:
(http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu165/oemcycle/KX250%20KAWASAKI%201999%20KX%20250%2099/SWINGARMPIVOTPIN.jpg)
That's all I have for you..
-
Thinking about getting this for my bike and having Sudco jet it to MXA's specs for my bike, the 00' KX 125.
Thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301009428106?item=301009428106&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr