KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: TwiceDead on May 12, 2013, 01:14:21 PM
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I just searched these forums, and I found that a 2002 Cylinder will fit on my 2000 KX250, but I need new updated powervalve assembly to go with it.
My current cylinder is pretty trashed, it can probally be sleeved but I am looking at getting another one. I was thinking about getting a 2002 Cylinder with the updated power valves etc. But does anyone know if theres any advantage to this 2002 cylinder over my 2000?
What I know
- the 2002 L4 has a 1-2hp increase over my 2000 L2. (not worth the trouble really)
- The expansion pipe part number is different between these two years.
Can anyone help me find this out?
Is there a different powerband?
Does the powervalve gunk up as bad as the previous years?
Anyone know if a 2000 KX250 exhaust will fit a 2002 it etc?
Or should i just get a 1998 cylinder or rebuild my 2000?!
http://www.bikepics.com/members/twicedead/ (http://www.bikepics.com/members/twicedead/)
This is my galleria of f*CKed kx250 parts :evil:
Gotta get this thing rippin' again!
- Stu "TwiceDead" Mayo
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you could use the cylinders 96- 2004 . but watch out for the right kips main valve, that were changed in 2001 or 2002. exhaust pipes were only changed in the color between 97-2004 which makes the diferent oem part numbers .
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I'm wondering if there might be something a little different in the pipes besides color.
I just researched this last week and pro circuits platinum pipes are all different from 98-04 :|
My reasoning is why would they make pipes all different for each year if there wasn't something a little different?
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same question from me... i think the pc-boys tried to find the perfekt performance in every year... :| ...but i bet, the difference will only seen in a dyno-testrun. :lol:
dep for example offers only one pipe for a few years... and this pipe works perfectly for my needs in mx. :-)
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I've got both the 2000 and 2002 cylinders for my L series.
My guess is that the updated version of the valves would build up more carbon because of the added slot on top of the main valve. When I clean the 2002 there is carbon built up there versus the previous design where that slot didn't exist.
I can feel no noticeable power deference between the 2 top ends.( just seat of the pants)
Have been trying to get my hands on the 98 cylinder for awhile, but they are getting expensive now.
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the good parts are always rare and expensive... :-o
i´m personally looking for an cheap 93-95 kx250 zylinder for an 300cc big bore projekt. on the 96 and newer is the exhaust to small.
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Here's a shot of the groove I'm talking about.
There is a carbon build up here, where the early L series didn't have that issue.
To be honest I'd just go for a re plate or a sleeve, save your money.
Your going to notice a difference in power on a fresh re build anyways.
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Hey guys what a response thanks! Lots of great info here and good to know others thought about similar swap.
The carbed up valve housing for the Main power valve assembly was gunked up really bad on mine also. I literally closed the powervalve assembly, and filled the bowl like area with seafoam and let it sit overnight.
Worse News! Brought case to work today to clean off some oversprayed paint (the previous owner tried to paint the frame without moving compoents - WHAT A DUMBASS). Cleaning the nuclear green paint off the bottom of the engine as well as alot of carbon/oil gunk from my leaking exhaust, I came across a crack and a small hole in the engine crankcase side of the case. Even worse, when I got the thing apart, I found the crank had snapped and totally F*cked the case. I pretty much have a badass kickscooter right now.
This thing just doesn't want to be rebuilt, I have no luck with this project at all! I may end up parting this one out.... Thanks for your help guys, pray that I keep my sanity!!!!!
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Hey guys what a response thanks! Lots of great info here and good to know others thought about similar swap.
The carbed up valve housing for the Main power valve assembly was gunked up really bad on mine also. I literally closed the powervalve assembly, and filled the bowl like area with seafoam and let it sit overnight.
Worse News! Brought case to work today to clean off some oversprayed paint (the previous owner tried to paint the frame without moving compoents - WHAT A DUMBASS). Cleaning the nuclear green paint off the bottom of the engine as well as alot of carbon/oil gunk from my leaking exhaust, I came across a crack and a small hole in the engine crankcase side of the case. Even worse, when I got the thing apart, I found the crank had snapped and totally F*cked the case. I pretty much have a badass kickscooter right now.
This thing just doesn't want to be rebuilt, I have no luck with this project at all! I may end up parting this one out.... Thanks for your help guys, pray that I keep my sanity!!!!!
feel free and post some pics
if the crack and hole are not to big,it can be welded and mashined to a like new condition. :-) you should find a good welder and try it, before parting out.
or alternative you should contact sandblaster for an good used set of cases for your engine. here you find his shop www.oem-cycle.com
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Hey moto,
I haven't given up yet! I haven't found a set of matched cases in useable condition (use without repairs). So I am going to fire up my Aluminum Spool gun and put some material down myself. File it flush as possible to case line (with a dial gauge) and hand lap the cases, and seal them up and check for leaks.
Plan was to build this KX up to new-bike spec, so going to do alot of DIY to get me there!
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Lapping your cases?
Excellent idea.
Get some Timesaver, you won't be sorry.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10863.msg92683.html#msg92683 (http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10863.msg92683.html#msg92683)
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=421 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=421)
It will not embed in the aluminum unlike other lapping compounds.
It cuts fast so don't get carried away.
I had a customer come into the shop today who is a ATV mechanic and he felt my cases and was blown away...
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Hey moto,
I haven't given up yet! I haven't found a set of matched cases in useable condition (use without repairs). So I am going to fire up my Aluminum Spool gun and put some material down myself. File it flush as possible to case line (with a dial gauge) and hand lap the cases, and seal them up and check for leaks.
Plan was to build this KX up to new-bike spec, so going to do alot of DIY to get me there!
only losers just give up. :evil: ...bring this bike back to life...i´m excited to see its finished... rock on.. :-D
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Lapping your cases?
Excellent idea.
Get some Timesaver, you won't be sorry.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10863.msg92683.html#msg92683 (http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10863.msg92683.html#msg92683)
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=421 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=421)
It will not embed in the aluminum unlike other lapping compounds.
It cuts fast so don't get carried away.
I had a customer come into the shop today who is a ATV mechanic and he felt my cases and was blown away...
F*cking A! I will need to see if I can get some of that stuff! Things are going good, I got material added today and tomorrow going to get some stainless steel stuff to work it down.
Anyone experiment with a Hydraulic clutch on their KX250 yet?
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i used my hebo-hydraulic clutch over then years on my ´97 250. and now i installed it to the k5-engine, because if is all in the right direction on the kx250, is pulling the clutch with the stock-cable as easy as with the hydraulic-actuation... :-)
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i used my hebo-hydraulic clutch over then years on my ´97 250. and now i installed it to the k5-engine, because if is all in the right direction on the kx250, is pulling the clutch with the stock-cable as easy as with the hydraulic-actuation... :-)
Thanks Moto, I just wanted to know because when the engine froze the bike feel on its left side and totally wrecked my clutch system, need it all, Handle, Mount, Cable the works.... and it looked like a good idea to replace it with a hydraulic, afterwards I found I was spelling Magura wrong, and when I spelled it right the search went through. Not alot of people on here have had luck with them.
I will just have to research a good setup to use, a easy pull with a good cable and replace clutch linkage on the case.
Does anyone know how to identify a stock Kawasaki Crankshaft? Mine has absolutely no markings besides a number on the rod. No brands at all.? If its a wiseco or another s**tty brand, I will get a used kawasaki one from OEM-Cycle and have it rebuilt for me.
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Wiseco and Hot rods will have their names with raised embossing on the rod...
Post some pics of yours...
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Hey Sandblaster!
Will do man, but batteries in my camera are dead and too f*cked up to drive to get some.
This is only one I have for now.....
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10715533/kx250pic/100_0860.JPG)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10715533/kx250pic/100_0860.JPG
s**tty picture I know, on the other side of that rod is a stamping that says ... "263"
3 Ball bearings missing from the cage! But WHERE THE HELL DID THEY GO? Maybe previous owner did s**tty top end job, pulled cylinder saw a mess of shavings and maybe the bearing cleaned it up and slapped it all back together?
Thanks for your time guys, you guys are like my heroes!
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263 is a bone stock 2000 KX250 crank rod.
It may be used on other years as well but I have pics of several of 2000 cranks and they all have 263 on them.
The bearings after dropping out could go out the exhaust.
Definitely should have made some noise on the way out :lol:
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263 is a bone stock 2000 KX250 crank rod.
It may be used on other years as well but I have pics of several of 2000 cranks and they all have 263 on them.
The bearings after dropping out could go out the exhaust.
Definitely should have made some noise on the way out :lol:
Thanks blaster! I was going about 50mph or faster when it froze. All I remember hearing is "PLINK!" I guess it could have been the bearings ricochet out the exhaust!!!! The next thing I know I'm flying across the trail on my side!!!!!!!
So messed up today (Holiday weekend in Canada), going to mic out the rod tomorrow when my vision straightens out and look in the LA sleeve and ProX catalog see if I can find a long rod to stick on this thing!
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i used my hebo-hydraulic clutch over then years on my ´97 250. and now i installed it to the k5-engine, because if is all in the right direction on the kx250, is pulling the clutch with the stock-cable as easy as with the hydraulic-actuation... :-)
Thanks Moto, I just wanted to know because when the engine froze the bike feel on its left side and totally wrecked my clutch system, need it all, Handle, Mount, Cable the works.... and it looked like a good idea to replace it with a hydraulic, afterwards I found I was spelling Magura wrong, and when I spelled it right the search went through. Not alot of people on here have had luck with them.
I will just have to research a good setup to use, a easy pull with a good cable and replace clutch linkage on the case.
Does anyone know how to identify a stock Kawasaki Crankshaft? Mine has absolutely no markings besides a number on the rod. No brands at all.? If its a wiseco or another s**tty brand, I will get a used kawasaki one from OEM-Cycle and have it rebuilt for me.
:-D... take a new oem-cable, make sure the laying of the cable allows that it works right , replace the seal and small bearings on the clutch-actuator arm. install it with some grease. also a little bit grease to the clutch-lever-bolt and you might be thinking you have another clutch-actuation installed on the bike... :wink:
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263 is a bone stock 2000 KX250 crank rod.
It may be used on other years as well but I have pics of several of 2000 cranks and they all have 263 on them.
The bearings after dropping out could go out the exhaust.
Definitely should have made some noise on the way out :lol:
this stock-263 rod were in from 1978- 2008 i found it also in my 83 and in an blown ´85 engine, that i parted out for my spare.
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Interesting.
They used the same casting.
Although here is the part numbers for the rods
74-82 kx250 13044-5007 still available
83-84 kx250 13044-5045 not available
85 kx250 13044-5042 not available
86-93 13044-5056 still available
94-96 13032-1076 not available
97 13032-1224 still available
98-99 13032-1236 still available
00-01 13032-1263 not available
02-07 13032-1279 still available
Hot rod Rods FITS 92-04 KX250 4017
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yep... same rod but diferent cranks shoulded in the changed strokes over the years...
i´ve directly compared the ´83 rod by a good used, but safely changed rod from my 97 kx 250 ... no diference seen and measured...
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HA! Just noticed the rod bearings numbers are the same on a few of the rods you listed! As well!!!
ProX Connecting Rod: Part # 03-4309 is for 1978-2008! Cool stuff!
What is this hot rods stuff like? I think this crank is rebuildable though, it has some surface damage from being banged around the case a lil.
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prox makes also very good rod-kits ... :-)
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Connecting-Rod-WPR133-/230977439096?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AKX&hash=item35c7540578&vxp=mtr
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Just cleaned up crank... man its in worse shape than I thought.... got chewed a bit, almost looks spalled on the steel webs. The stuffers look ground a bit from the bearing cage and shaving banking around.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10715533/kx250pic/100_0866.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10715533/kx250pic/100_0868.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10715533/kx250pic/100_0871.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10715533/kx250pic/100_0870.JPG)
I measured the exposed crank journal on one side. I got 0.0058" out of round. Big and small end of the crank are nice and smooth, no damage apparent anyway. What do you guys think, send this off for Prox rod and bearings rebuild or just go for a new crank assembly from Hotrods or get a used Kawi crank and get it rebuilt?