KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: machine on October 07, 2004, 02:49:26 AM
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I just bought a 04' KX5.
When I bought it they started it up fine.
Then I brought it home and started it up a few times great.
That was last Sat.
Now I put some new bars on it last night, and the thing wont start???
I've checked the kill swtich, and removed it.
I've checked all the wires with a continuity tester, and all check out good.
changed plugs, but still no spark????
Seems like there's just no spark from the coil, to the plug??? :(
Any help would be great!!!
Thanks, Kev...
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Hi Machine, make sure your connections are correct, also make sure the kill switch is completely disconnected and not grounded anywhere. Is there juice coming to the coil wire? I doubt the coil is bad, maybe the plug cap came loose? Maybe a bad plug. The big KX's are VERY known to foul plugs, due to lame jetting from the factory. Purchase a new plug and I'd go with a BR8 (or 9) EIX plug. But, if money is tight just try a new plug. You always have the option of grabbing the plug as you kick to see if any voltage is coming through.
I'm thinking it's the plug. Check that first. If not, it's your wiring or the coil is bad which is very unlikely.
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Gabe;
Thanks for the reply!
I can use all the help I can get!!!
I did change the plug, still no spark???
How do I check for power going to the coil???
I have un-puged, and re-pluged in all the wires too...
And I did remove the kill switch......
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Hi Kev,
Hmm. Sounds wierd.. I'd start at the obvious. You tried the plug, so we know the plug is not the issue. You removed the kill switch, so that is not sticking. Maybe make sure the wires are in correct order. It's pretty simple, black/white to black/white and so forth. Usally can't go backwards. Make sure water did not get in the connections and may have caused rusting.
Also, pull your flywheel cover, make sure it is not full of water. If you have a flywheel puller, pull the flywheel and make sure it is not rusted inside and check to see if any wires came loose.
Also, when you pull the flywheel cover check that the flywheel nut did not come loose, I've seen this happen. Also, check that the flywheel key did not snap.
Just a few things. Hopefully we can get this sorted out for you.
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Oh man I?m I depressed! :cry:
The bike is new, never been ridden yet.
I bought it as a ?factory demo? as they called it.
It looks to be only ridden for about 10 minutes if that. It has the stock tires still on it.
I?ve never had the chance to ride it accept when I got it home, I rode it up and down my street twice.
The place where I bought it made it very clear that there are no warranties on MX bikes, they are sold as is???
But how do I check if there is power going to the coil???
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I'm pretty d**n sure you can put a voltage meter in the wire feed to the coil and use a voltage meter and it should be putting something of the sorts to 5-10 volts? If nothing is coming out, you have a problem. Make sure you disconnect all wires, clean them, usally have rust or dirt in them, make sure all ground wires are properly installed and grounded.
Also, double check on the flywheel. Did it backfire or quit running on you? Anything funny at your last ride?
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It back fired the first time I started it, (a very small one ) but then I rode it twice up and down the street with out any problems????
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Can someone tell me how to check the coil, and CDI independently?
Sadly I don?t have a manual (Yet)
Thanks,
Kev?
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Kev, I'll get out my manual this evening when I get off work. Try removing your flywheel cover and see if anything looks off. Maybe the flywheel loose, ect. ect.
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Ok, this is what I did tonight! (Or last night)
Got out the multimeter and did some checking.
I turrned the meter to AC/V (would not work in DC/V???)
Then I unhooked the CDI from the coil.
I hooked up the meter inline for the input into the coil.
I kicked over the bike and my reading was 3.89v
I then hooked back up the CDI to the coil, and kicked the bike over again.
With the ground on the frame, and the pos. in the end of the spark plug cap, I got a reading of .001/.000 at best...
Would this indicate a bad coil????
Is 3.89 a descent reading from my CDI??? :? :? :?
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It back fired the first time I started it, (a very small one ) but then I rode it twice up and down the street with out any problems????
If it back fired, you must check the Reeds, i think you blow the reeds.
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It did it when the dealer started it too.
Not a real big one, just a little one just B 4 it started.
But after that it ran great????
Oh, I did check the flywheel too.
The bolt is tight, and the flywheel is on there solid!!!!
?????
I'm starting to think it's the cooil?
If it back fired, you must check the Reeds, i think you blow the reeds.[/quote]
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But backfire or not, with or with out reeds it should stll have a spark!
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Well I would check for a loose stator plate (behind flywheel) being it was back fireing it may be loose and now way out of time,should be on center mark of the 3 marks.If your getting some kind of reading I doubt its the igniter because that is go,no-go type of thing.Heres what my book list for readings,primary coil-.26-.36 ohms,secondary2.6-3.6 ohms.Stator BLK/WHT toBLK/YEL 153-230ohms,WHT/RD to BLK/YEL 7.9-11.9 ohms.You should get a manuel,if you cant find one for the newer 500 the book for the '93 on down will help you with almost every thing on your newer bike,hope this helps.
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Is the igniter the CDI, or the coil???
Thanks, it all helps.
I do have a manual on order...
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Well I would check for a loose stator plate (behind flywheel) being it was back fireing it may be loose and now way out of time,should be on center mark of the 3 marks.If your getting some kind of reading I doubt its the igniter because that is go,no-go type of thing.Heres what my book list for readings,primary coil-.26-.36 ohms,secondary2.6-3.6 ohms.Stator BLK/WHT toBLK/YEL 153-230ohms,WHT/RD to BLK/YEL 7.9-11.9 ohms.You should get a manuel,if you cant find one for the newer 500 the book for the '93 on down will help you with almost every thing on your newer bike,hope this helps.
d**n, I'm confused. My book is saying this about the stator:
Disconnect the Stator from CDI and what have you.
Black/Red to Black/Yellow --- should be 432-648 ohms
White/Red to White/Green --- should be 4.0-6.0 ohms
wierd! Try both. Tha twill insure the stator.
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Oh man am I confused!!!!!!! :roll:
How much is a stater $$$?????
Maybe I should just take it in????
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Is the igniter the CDI, or the coil???
Thanks, it all helps.
I do have a manual on order...
The igniter is the coil !!!!
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fallow mikesmith's instruction. Use an ohm meter and test the connections of the stator fallowing his wire COLOR codes. If you don't feel comfortable, I'd just take it in and get it tested.
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Thanks big time guys!
You've all been a big help.
But I got it in the shop now.
I just hope the next post you guys here from me is how much I love my K5, and how bad I roosted my buddies!!!!
Thanks again to all!!!!
:D
Kev....
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It was the keyway on the flywheel!
All fixed now!!!
you guys were right!!
Thanks again!
:lol:
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That's what I would have thought. :-) I'm glad you got it fixed. It is something you have to have a special tool to get.
Glad it's running again, I thought a bad coil was kinda wierd.
It was the keyway on the flywheel!
All fixed now!!!
you guys were right!!
Thanks again!
:lol:
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GEEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bikes back in the shop.
I guess I sopke to soon. :cry:
The fly wheels too messed up to work again.
Need to get a new one now. $283 buck!!!
Oh man, I just hope I can ride this thing sometime!~
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Dont get to down on it,your just having a little bad luck.
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I bet they did NOT tighten the nut on the flywheel. Use red locktite.
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Thanks for the kind words MikeS. I can really ues then about now!!!
Do you think a new flywheel, and keyway will fix it?
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The flywheel had some small dings in the tapper. Not to deep.
My guess just by looking at it, that there somewhere around .002 deep.
I'm going to keep the old flywheel, and machine it on the wire EDM.
I will just do a skim cutt at first, till all the dings are out. Maybe .0005
at a time.
Then cut the keyseat a bit deeper too.
And make a new key too!
What do I have to lose. they were going to toss it....
????
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Machine,
I work on 2-stroke outboards for a living and I belive the same thoery may apply to the ignition system.
To check the stator output going to the cdi and then from the cdi to the coil you will need a peak reading volt meter. I use an peaking adapter for my Fluke multi meter. Maybe your dealer could let you use one for your trouble shooting. The peak reading volt meter or adapter will allow you to read the peaks of the voltage track(I guess you can say it averages the peaks) When you got those wired readings from the cdi or coil I think it might be because of not using the peak reading meter. I may be wrong but I hope this helps.
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Got it back!
Seems to be working good now, I hope it lasts!
Now going to the desert to try it out in a few hours!!!!
Thanks again to all!!!
Kev...
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Have fun!
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That bike rips!!! I wish I had bought one a long time ago!
Well this is what happend....
The bike rode great for about 10 miles, then started to get hard to start.
Then I rode another 10, and it kepped dieing after the 20 mile mark????
Got it back to the house, and checked the plug.
Lots of spark?
Put in back in, and it fired right up??
Them rode it 2 blocks and it started dieing again???
Very odd???? :?
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Check the flywheel again,maybe they didnt tighten it up or something?A new plugs not ever a bad idea.
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The plug was sparking great!
well at least when I had it out of the motor!
Guess I need to take it back....
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I bet they did NOT tighten the nut on the flywheel. Use red locktite.
Yup. It would spark fine, but the TIMING of the spark would be off, in other words, would be firing at the wrong time. I had the same issue and ended up using red lock tite and an air impact driver to keep it on. :-)
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Gabe,
Would it help lapping the flywheel to the crank with some valve grinding compound? I've heard of this frequently but not had to do it (yet). I agree, lots of red locktite also will always help. Cam.
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Yes, or some steel wool to get rid of the polishing effect, but I still suggest using an impact as the 500 has some serious power in that crank. :-)