KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: Motoroost1 on April 23, 2012, 12:25:59 AM
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I am new to the KX500 scene and just going through the steps to get my 2003 tuned correctly .
I have noticed however , a significant amount of vibration coming through the handlebars . After a 6 mile trail ride , my hands are almost numb . Does anyone have any tips to help reduce this felt fibration in the bars ?
My bars are an Easton EA70 fat bar that tapers to 1 7/8 at the grips .
In it's current state , long trail rides are not really much of an option and this is exactly what I bought the bike for .
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Does anyone have any tips to help reduce this felt fibration in the bars ?
Don't hang on so tight... :-o
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Fasst flex bars with anti vibe inserts smooth it all out :-D
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Well , if I didn't hang on for dear life , I'd fly the **** off :) That's bad for my old bones :)
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Well , if I didn't hang on for dear life , I'd fly the **** off :) That's bad for my old bones :)
HAHA....that was good!!.
All joking aside...it's easier said then done,but it does help...alot.Not just with your hands going numb,but if you're suffering with arm pump too,keeping a looser grip will help with that as well.These are just tips I've learned from some of the local experts in my area over the years,and once I got used to it,they were a thing of the past.Try it....if not,give the Fasst Flexx a shot like Alward25 suggested....I've never tried them,but they might be worth looking into as well.
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I'll try the looser grip for sure . I'll also look into a different set of grips perhaps to see if there is anything else that might absorb vibration better then what I have now .
I really want to ride this bike on a few longer trail runs this summer (60 miles or so ) and the only way it will be possible is if I can find a solution to the vibration . Currently , after only 20 miles or so , my hands are so numb that's it's a real issue .
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They made a big difference on my bike. :wink:
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A true crank and proper balance factor does wonders
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No question about a trued crank , but , I am not going to disassemble the engine to address this . I have to find a reasonable , bolt on "remedy" .
If I can't , I'll live with it the way it is . Not the end of the world .
I'll investigate bar options tonight online .
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Cheep option is to fill the bars with expanding foam. Can shoot it in your frame as well.
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What kind of foam ?
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Here's my secret recipe for minimal KX500 "body buzz" . Stuff 5/16" automotive fuel line inside the bars, grip the bike more with your thighs, and ease up on your handlebar "death grip". Take 4 advils before you ride. Gel palm street riding gloves.
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My crank is trued and balanced, but my 500 still vibrated more than any 250 I've owned. When I bought my ex Team Green 500, I asked the mechanic about this and he just said that crank balancing will reduce vibration, but the KX500 will always have some vibration.
My solution: I tried vibranators (If interested, I have a picture before I installed them). They made a noticeable difference, especially when I would ride for prolonged periods. My friend rode my bike back to back, before and after the vibranators and he could tell the difference just puttin around on the street.
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Well, let's price out a few things. Bottom end overhaul, assuming your top end is all in good shape and just need gaskets, approx prices :
Rod kit- $90
Labor to install it- $50-$75
Cometic Engine gasket set with main seals- $50
Main Bearings- $30
So, about $220 if you don't replace all the other seals, $235 if you do.
Assuming your plating is in good shape....
Wossner Windowed Piston kit STD bore- $180
OEM wrist pin bearing- $10
There may be other odds and ends you would want to replace, but they are usually pretty cheap but could run as much as $50-$100
So, complete engine overhaul less than $500 if you can do all of the work but the crank.
My cost on Fasst Flex bars is $270 plus shipping. another $50 if you want the anti-vibe inserts.
Conclusion, Buy bars to mask a bigger problem, or tear it down and freshen it up. Both would not hurt :evil:
Oh, don't forget an MZB to power your fire your steed for $550 :-D
Alex
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Well , every shop in my area charges $80/hr + tax and and to split the cases and install a crank , you are looking at about $400 just in labour . It is $275 just to split the cases here . Every other part , crank kit , bearings and seals are extra . Machine work to true the crank is extra on top of all that . So , this is a pretty expensive proposition if you can't do the work yourself .
Not even remotely feasible if the engine is fresh and vibration is the only issue . This is essentially where I'm at . The motor seems fresh with good compression and lots of power . It has a brand new cylinder and Wiseco piston . So , for simple trail riding , I will try a few basic things to help the numb hands issue . If I can reduce it to a resonable level , I will be happy . If not , it will be what it will be . It's not the end of the world by any means . I will adapt and move on .
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Cheep option is to fill the bars with expanding foam. Can shoot it in your frame as well.
This works great for a little while, after a short time the foam starts disintegrating and you're left with a mess and no vibe damping. Buy some flexx bars and take some midol (seriously).
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pull the flywheell cover and check the flywheel for up\down and SIDE movement ,
U could even run the motor and visual watch the flywheel for movement
if it moves up/down is usually a sign of not trued withen spec crank
The vibration and stress on bearings is not the only issue with a non trued crank, as is rotates it will be slightly changing in width [more than the clearance in the c3main bearings ] which will force the main bearing spin\move sideways on the shaft, [common on the kx }
I think we should all be anal about about truning our cranks
maybe not your problem but worth a check as 50% of kx5 motor have spun bearing on crank, maybe i am really unlucky with kx5 motor :-D
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I had the carpel tunnelrelease surgury. I can ride for hours without any numbness. Careful with taking motrin or aspirin before you ride - it thins out your blood and a crash may lead to excessive internal bleeding, or at a minimum, a normal bruise turns into a big contusion. I have protapers with the fasstco inserts and liqued "bar snake" with spyder grips for max vibe reduction
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How about a custom flywheel that doubled as a vibration damper? Something like an inner hub, outer ring, and elastomer in between.
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I'm with you on the cranks Dave.One thing that will help you loosen your grip is the clear grip stuff that you put on tank to help gripping with knees.Can't remember the brand name. On the subject of bar grip/arm pump, I have big hands, and have come to the conclusion that by making the grips thicker, it will be more comfortable and spread the load over a greater area. More on this shortly. K.
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and have come to the conclusion that by making the grips thicker, it will be more comfortable and spread the load over a greater area. More on this shortly. K.
I agree.For years I ran the Renthal light grey full diamond grips because I like the feel of the diamond.I recently switched to the Scott MX-SX 2's....they're a full diamond,and much thicker than the Renthals,thus easing the "grip" needed to hang on.
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Too bad this company is only into autos and not into big bore 2 strokes !
http://www.fluidampr.com/
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On my FJ 1200 they have steel bar ends, vibranator is a company that sells a screw in bar end that is reducng bar vibrations. They do very nice work and they work well too.
On my KXs I just fill the bars with rubberized silicon in a tube, let dry before you put back together (it will expand). It's a cheap bar snake and alot easier to install.
And loosend my grip used larger grips for my big hands. Helped alot. The carpel tunnel oper was the best thing I did. No problems any more.
Bob W