KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: cobbs on March 02, 2012, 10:08:01 AM
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So i guess i have a very rare factory race cylinder (came off a 95) has anyone come across one of these before? I sent my cylinder to kustom kraft to have it sleeved (just my personal preference) and they called me back and told me that there is no sleeve that will match my cylinder mostly because their are two EXTRA exhaust ports that dont exist on any other kx500 cylinder hes ever seen (and he has seen hundreds)and then he tells me that its a very very rare factory race team cylinder which is very likely the case because when i took the cylinder off it had no cut marks ANYWHERE it was totally untouched with no tool marks it looks just like a crude factory cast cylinder but with extra exhaust ports its pretty cool to have such a rare cylinder but now i cant have it sleeved because it will cost big bucks to have a custom sleeve made so i guess its back to plating. If anyone knows anything about it or where it came from please let me know i will also post pics of it when i get it back from plating.
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Id like to see pics... If we cant sort it out.. no one can.... I have owned 2 team green CYL"s myself...
And there is a mod some of us have done that involves 2 more intake ports.
have him snap a picture for us..
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its just a sleeve, why cant he poke a hole in it?
I could do it
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kustom kraft said they could do it but its just alot of work to match those ports just the sleeve would be over 400$ plus everything else so its getting plated im just going to have to make sure i seat the rings properly the previous owner did not and it had alot of blowby which is the reason im rebuilding it plus i had some nikasil flaking off ohh and my extra ports are exhaust ports not intake so does that mean it could be a team green cylinder possibly even danny hamels or jeff wards?
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Hey motorad you seem to know ALOT about these bike so what your method on seating rings nice and tight with a coated cylinder i know the new technology coatings are very hard so it makes it difficult to seat the rings properly and have never broke in a plated motor before
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Hey motorad you seem to know ALOT about these bike so what your method on seating rings nice and tight with a coated cylinder i know the new technology coatings are very hard so it makes it difficult to seat the rings properly and have never broke in a plated motor before
I put a post up about it somewhere.. Ill dig up a link for ya...
Get us some pictures of the Jug... its all just speculation till we can see it..
I have had one of Destry abbots jugs, and one of Wardys.. and one of jeff healeys.. all were way more stock than you would think...
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I will call kustom kraft monday to see if he can send a pic if not ill do it when it comes back, and thats funny you said they look more stock than you would think my jug looked completely stock to me there was NO PORTING at all no cutting has ever been done it has all cast marks and fat rounded intake runners zero refinement, but it has those extra exhaust ports i have had alot of motors with port work and i have ported a couple of my own so i know what to look for and my cylinder looks completely stock that why i didnt know those ports weren't normal
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I degreed etc all those of mine.... trust me when I say.. they were WAY more stock than you woudl think..
Break in..
I still vouch by the old tryed and true take it easy method..
This is written by a guy name Howard Richards from R.E.D.. Best describes my train of thought... (except I keep better records of compression, leakdown (both pressure and vaccume)
"The purpose of the "break-in" procedure is to GRADUALLY wear down the "high spots" on components such as rings, piston skirts, cylinder walls, bearings and races, etc. after a motor is fitted with new items. ALL machined parts are imperfect to a certain degree and therefore have "high" and "low" areas which must be mated to those that they roll or rub against to achieve a good running fit. Problems can arise however in the process because the mere act of "rubbing down" the high spots creates abnormally high friction. Friction creates heat. Heat creates expansion. Expansion reduces running clearances and increases friction. More friction, more heat, more expansion... Pretty soon you can see that you are rubbing off MORE than high spots on each part resulting in premature part wear (LOW spots). This is what happens when a motor is broken in too aggressively. You end up with a motor that, at the very least, has abnormally LARGE running clearances throughout. Thus you now have an unnecessarily shortened remaining life for your "new" motor accompanied by reduced performance. If the motor is really abused during early "new life" running, the tight initial clearances may get closed up completely due to heat and expansion and the rotating or reciprocating parts will SEIZE. So how to control this "running in and mating" of moving parts becomes the question...
First, before you even start the motor for the first time, do a "cranking pressure" compression test with a good quality, screw-into-the-spark-plug-hole type compression gage. Ignition off, fuel off, throttle held WIDE OPEN. Kick, pull-rope or cycle the electric starter until the gage reaches its' highest reading and stays there. Note the reading and record it. Don't expect a real high number because the rings and cylinder are not mated yet, but you should see at least 100 psi, sometimes much higher depending on the planned compression ratio, port timing (or camshaft profile if it's a four stroke), etc.. Generally speaking, with fuel, air, spark at approximately the correct time, 100 psi gage pressure and exhaust, the motor will run.
I prefer to break-in motors on a petroleum based oil and then switch to a synthetic afterwards (if it's to be done at all). There's lots of opinions on this...... for better or worse, that's mine. My feelings are that "too slippery" an oil will slow down the break-in process too much and I've even seen 600X cross hatched cylinders, chrome and Nikasil bores where the rings never seated and we attributed it to synthetic oils during break-in. If it's a two stroke, you can add a bit of extra pre-mix oil to the fuel, set the oil pump at a slightly higher than normal base setting, or both for the first tank of fuel, but I'd use a petroleum based oil.
OK. Start the motor and allow it to run at approximately 1500 rpm or so. Shut the choke off absolutely ASAP! The excess fuel that the choke supplies can wash the oil film off the cylinder walls (oil injection) and overheat the ring faces quickly, especially in a four stroke. ALWAYS shut the choke off ASAP on ANY motor for this same reason. NEVER let a motor run for long periods with the choke on to warm it up. NEVER ride, drive, fly or place under load any motor driven device with the choke on. It is a quick route to early death for the rings.
Check immediately for oil and compression leaks around the various gasket sealing locations. ANY LEAKS should be fixed immediately, especially head, base or exhaust gasket areas. If there are none, hold your hand against the cylinder and GENTLY vary the engine speed in neutral between approximately 1500 and 2500 rpm. DO NOT OVER REV! There is no "load" on the engine and over revving is very tough on crankshaft, bearings, etc.! When the engine is warm enough to be uncomfortable on your hand, shut it off. Again check for any leaks. Now let the motor cool down to COLD. THEN, carefully re-torque the head(s) at this time.
Now you're ready for your first ride/drive/flight/whatever. Start the motor and warm-up gently exactly as before. When the motor is uncomfortably warm on your hand, stab her in gear and gently accelerate through each gear using about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle as a shift point. DO NOT BOG or LUG the motor. DO NOT "cruise" at a steady rpm. Vary the engine speed up and down at all times. DO NOT OVER REV either! When you reach top gear immediately slow down and ride back to your origin doing the same thing. Limit your initial ride time to 5 to 10 minutes maximum, all the while touching the cylinder frequently with your hand to sense drastic overheating. ANY signs of excessive heating or abnormal engine noises require immediate SHUT DOWN and investigation/cure of the culprit. If in doubt, DO NOT ride/drive/fly back to the garage and then shut it off... TOW it back! When you're done with the initial ride, let it cool down to COLD again.
Continue this procedure gradually extending the running time to 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, etc.. You can also gradually get a bit more agressive with throttle application (slightly bigger "handfuls/footfuls" of throttle). Speed up, slow down, constantly varying throttle position and going up and down through the gears. Steady cruising at one engine speed or lugging the motor below its' powerband in a higher gear can cause overheating during break-in... AVOID BOTH! Don't worry so much about too high an rpm as VARYING the rpm. Bursts of throttle allow heating and mild expansion which in turn shaves off those high spots while deceleration allows slight cooling and contraction. Stay away from long hills, carrying a passenger or heavy loads during break-in.
After about an hour total riding/driving/flying time has accumulated, recheck cranking compression. As the rings seat, you will see the readings come up and you will also notice improvements in power delivery. Break-in is essentially complete when the readings peak and no longer get higher as more riding time accumulates. For a two stroke, this is typically one to three hours break-in time.
A four stroke has a superior oiling system and therefore breaks in more slowly. Two to five hundred miles is frequently required to completely break-in a four stroke. For a closely toleranced street four stroke it often takes 1000 to 1500 miles or even more! I dump the oil and filter in a four stroke after the first 75 miles, again at 200 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles and each 1500 miles thereafter on a street engine. Off road and competition four strokes get fresh oil and filter every one hundred to four hundred miles with me, depending on how hard their running life is after break-in. The initial oil and filter change is done into a clean, light colored, plastic shallow pan so I can see any metal particles that drain out with it. Straining the oil through a clean, white paint filter is excellent practice. You can then drag a magnet through the oil to collect the particles that are ferrous for closer inspection of potential problems. Minor break-in particulate or "dust" is normal. I also cut open the oil filter and lay it out on clean white paper towel to see what it has trapped and again look for any signs of trouble. Yes, it's a lot of fiddling and checking but I find it infinitly preferable to engine catastrophies (and a lot less expensive!).
Once it is broken-in, you can optimize ignition timing and jetting, preferably on a dyno. During break-in keep the fuel/air SLIGHTLY rich and the ignition timing essentially stock, NOT advanced.
Even after break-in is done, always warm up the engine thoroughly before riding/driving/flying per the above procedure to avoid cold engine excessive wear or even possible "cold seizure" on liquid cooled motors (most frequently occurs in marine or snowmobile applications).
Enjoy the fruits of your intense labors...... good luck!"
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thanks for the advice I'll give it a try!
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I degreed etc all those of mine.... trust me when I say.. they were WAY more stock than you woudl think..
Break in..
I still vouch by the old tryed and true take it easy method..
This is written by a guy name Howard Richards from R.E.D.. Best describes my train of thought... (except I keep better records of compression, leakdown (both pressure and vaccume)
"The purpose of the "break-in" procedure is to GRADUALLY wear down the "high spots" on components such as rings, piston skirts, cylinder walls, bearings and races, etc. after a motor is fitted with new items. ALL machined parts are imperfect to a certain degree and therefore have "high" and "low" areas which must be mated to those that they roll or rub against to achieve a good running fit. Problems can arise however in the process because the mere act of "rubbing down" the high spots creates abnormally high friction. Friction creates heat. Heat creates expansion. Expansion reduces running clearances and increases friction. More friction, more heat, more expansion... Pretty soon you can see that you are rubbing off MORE than high spots on each part resulting in premature part wear (LOW spots). This is what happens when a motor is broken in too aggressively. You end up with a motor that, at the very least, has abnormally LARGE running clearances throughout. Thus you now have an unnecessarily shortened remaining life for your "new" motor accompanied by reduced performance. If the motor is really abused during early "new life" running, the tight initial clearances may get closed up completely due to heat and expansion and the rotating or reciprocating parts will SEIZE. So how to control this "running in and mating" of moving parts becomes the question...
First, before you even start the motor for the first time, do a "cranking pressure" compression test with a good quality, screw-into-the-spark-plug-hole type compression gage. Ignition off, fuel off, throttle held WIDE OPEN. Kick, pull-rope or cycle the electric starter until the gage reaches its' highest reading and stays there. Note the reading and record it. Don't expect a real high number because the rings and cylinder are not mated yet, but you should see at least 100 psi, sometimes much higher depending on the planned compression ratio, port timing (or camshaft profile if it's a four stroke), etc.. Generally speaking, with fuel, air, spark at approximately the correct time, 100 psi gage pressure and exhaust, the motor will run.
I prefer to break-in motors on a petroleum based oil and then switch to a synthetic afterwards (if it's to be done at all). There's lots of opinions on this...... for better or worse, that's mine. My feelings are that "too slippery" an oil will slow down the break-in process too much and I've even seen 600X cross hatched cylinders, chrome and Nikasil bores where the rings never seated and we attributed it to synthetic oils during break-in. If it's a two stroke, you can add a bit of extra pre-mix oil to the fuel, set the oil pump at a slightly higher than normal base setting, or both for the first tank of fuel, but I'd use a petroleum based oil.
OK. Start the motor and allow it to run at approximately 1500 rpm or so. Shut the choke off absolutely ASAP! The excess fuel that the choke supplies can wash the oil film off the cylinder walls (oil injection) and overheat the ring faces quickly, especially in a four stroke. ALWAYS shut the choke off ASAP on ANY motor for this same reason. NEVER let a motor run for long periods with the choke on to warm it up. NEVER ride, drive, fly or place under load any motor driven device with the choke on. It is a quick route to early death for the rings.
Check immediately for oil and compression leaks around the various gasket sealing locations. ANY LEAKS should be fixed immediately, especially head, base or exhaust gasket areas. If there are none, hold your hand against the cylinder and GENTLY vary the engine speed in neutral between approximately 1500 and 2500 rpm. DO NOT OVER REV! There is no "load" on the engine and over revving is very tough on crankshaft, bearings, etc.! When the engine is warm enough to be uncomfortable on your hand, shut it off. Again check for any leaks. Now let the motor cool down to COLD. THEN, carefully re-torque the head(s) at this time.
Now you're ready for your first ride/drive/flight/whatever. Start the motor and warm-up gently exactly as before. When the motor is uncomfortably warm on your hand, stab her in gear and gently accelerate through each gear using about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle as a shift point. DO NOT BOG or LUG the motor. DO NOT "cruise" at a steady rpm. Vary the engine speed up and down at all times. DO NOT OVER REV either! When you reach top gear immediately slow down and ride back to your origin doing the same thing. Limit your initial ride time to 5 to 10 minutes maximum, all the while touching the cylinder frequently with your hand to sense drastic overheating. ANY signs of excessive heating or abnormal engine noises require immediate SHUT DOWN and investigation/cure of the culprit. If in doubt, DO NOT ride/drive/fly back to the garage and then shut it off... TOW it back! When you're done with the initial ride, let it cool down to COLD again.
Continue this procedure gradually extending the running time to 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, etc.. You can also gradually get a bit more agressive with throttle application (slightly bigger "handfuls/footfuls" of throttle). Speed up, slow down, constantly varying throttle position and going up and down through the gears. Steady cruising at one engine speed or lugging the motor below its' powerband in a higher gear can cause overheating during break-in... AVOID BOTH! Don't worry so much about too high an rpm as VARYING the rpm. Bursts of throttle allow heating and mild expansion which in turn shaves off those high spots while deceleration allows slight cooling and contraction. Stay away from long hills, carrying a passenger or heavy loads during break-in.
After about an hour total riding/driving/flying time has accumulated, recheck cranking compression. As the rings seat, you will see the readings come up and you will also notice improvements in power delivery. Break-in is essentially complete when the readings peak and no longer get higher as more riding time accumulates. For a two stroke, this is typically one to three hours break-in time.
A four stroke has a superior oiling system and therefore breaks in more slowly. Two to five hundred miles is frequently required to completely break-in a four stroke. For a closely toleranced street four stroke it often takes 1000 to 1500 miles or even more! I dump the oil and filter in a four stroke after the first 75 miles, again at 200 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles and each 1500 miles thereafter on a street engine. Off road and competition four strokes get fresh oil and filter every one hundred to four hundred miles with me, depending on how hard their running life is after break-in. The initial oil and filter change is done into a clean, light colored, plastic shallow pan so I can see any metal particles that drain out with it. Straining the oil through a clean, white paint filter is excellent practice. You can then drag a magnet through the oil to collect the particles that are ferrous for closer inspection of potential problems. Minor break-in particulate or "dust" is normal. I also cut open the oil filter and lay it out on clean white paper towel to see what it has trapped and again look for any signs of trouble. Yes, it's a lot of fiddling and checking but I find it infinitly preferable to engine catastrophies (and a lot less expensive!).
Once it is broken-in, you can optimize ignition timing and jetting, preferably on a dyno. During break-in keep the fuel/air SLIGHTLY rich and the ignition timing essentially stock, NOT advanced.
Even after break-in is done, always warm up the engine thoroughly before riding/driving/flying per the above procedure to avoid cold engine excessive wear or even possible "cold seizure" on liquid cooled motors (most frequently occurs in marine or snowmobile applications).
Enjoy the fruits of your intense labors...... good luck!"
Howard is a very smart guy, wait, very very smart guy. He built my KX 5 and his buddy built my pipe. So glad those guys are local to me. If you want to go fast and have gobbs of power he's the man. But non of our local guy's I like being the one with the big motor. :evil: :-D
Bob W
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I can see that custom pipe in your pic that thing is fat does it have some good top end or what? I am working on my own custom pipe too using hydroforming but I'm sure it will take some trial and error to get it perfect but anyway you have a sweet pipe hopefully I will too
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My pipe and cyl/head work was built for a STRONG mid to top end power curve. I only ride it on the ice. 40 plus LBS just extra of screws and liners in tires, plus gearing I needed torque more than HP.
This pipe design is also run on a CR500 roadrace bike at louden NH, he does very well. If I could find a SM setup cheap or could borrow the stuff I would run mine on the Louden Roadcourse. Wife wouldn't like it but you know. More laps never hurt. :wink:
Bob W
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My pipe and cyl/head work was built for a STRONG mid to top end power curve. I only ride it on the ice. 40 plus LBS just extra of screws and liners in tires, plus gearing I needed torque more than HP.
This pipe design is also run on a CR500 roadrace bike at louden NH, he does very well. If I could find a SM setup cheap or could borrow the stuff I would run mine on the Louden Roadcourse. Wife wouldn't like it but you know. More laps never hurt. :wink:
Bob W
That's all your body needs is a SM KX500 high side at 90 mph down the front straight... :-o
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That's just mean. I'm old and worn out, what are you trying to say? I would be more nervous coming back on the nascar oval, that's the part of the track intimidates me in the legend car at high speed. The wall just looks so big in them cars, couldn't think about it on a bike.
Bob W
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well my cylinder is at us chrome right now so I can't get a photo for about another week but I will do it asap
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So i guess i have a very rare factory race cylinder (came off a 95) has anyone come across one of these before? I sent my cylinder to kustom kraft to have it sleeved (just my personal preference) and they called me back and told me that there is no sleeve that will match my cylinder mostly because their are two EXTRA exhaust ports that dont exist on any other kx500 cylinder hes ever seen (and he has seen hundreds)and then he tells me that its a very very rare factory race team cylinder which is very likely the case because when i took the cylinder off it had no cut marks ANYWHERE it was totally untouched with no tool marks it looks just like a crude factory cast cylinder but with extra exhaust ports its pretty cool to have such a rare cylinder but now i cant have it sleeved because it will cost big bucks to have a custom sleeve made so i guess its back to plating. If anyone knows anything about it or where it came from please let me know i will also post pics of it when i get it back from plating.
cant see how it is possible to fit 2 extra exhaust ports on a kx ,89on already have 5 ex ports, even if was possibly there would not be enough piston skirt closing at TDC
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So i guess i have a very rare factory race cylinder (came off a 95) has anyone come across one of these before? I sent my cylinder to kustom kraft to have it sleeved (just my personal preference) and they called me back and told me that there is no sleeve that will match my cylinder mostly because their are two EXTRA exhaust ports that dont exist on any other kx500 cylinder hes ever seen (and he has seen hundreds)and then he tells me that its a very very rare factory race team cylinder which is very likely the case because when i took the cylinder off it had no cut marks ANYWHERE it was totally untouched with no tool marks it looks just like a crude factory cast cylinder but with extra exhaust ports its pretty cool to have such a rare cylinder but now i cant have it sleeved because it will cost big bucks to have a custom sleeve made so i guess its back to plating. If anyone knows anything about it or where it came from please let me know i will also post pics of it when i get it back from plating.
cant see how it is possible to fit 2 extra exhaust ports on a kx ,89on already have 5 ex ports, even if was possibly there would not be enough piston skirt closing at TDC
I have been stairing at a K5 jug thinking the same thing also...
we have found how to cram 2 more intake ports.. But exaust... has got me...
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I solved the intake port :wink:
hopefully i'll find a chassis to get this motor into.
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I'm just telling you what kustom kraft told me maybe he ment to say intake but he definently told me exhaust I don't know enough about the kx cylinder to to have known but he told me he tried every sleeve they make for it and none of them would work and I know he's worked on countless kx500s I just hope he didn't mess something up and is now trying to cover his tracks I know my cousin is a two stroke genius and he's owned a couple kx500s and he didn't notice anything out of the ordinary with my cylinder so I guess its going to be a mystery until I get it back and if it is a normal cylinder I'm going to be pissed off that he didn't sleeve it very pissed
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why does it need a sleeve? Plating would be better IMO.
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why does it need a sleeve? Plating would be better IMO.
my thoughts exactly....
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well I talked to the owner of kustom kraft today and he said for sure they are exhaust ports I told him what you guys told me about there being very very little room for that to be possible and he IS SURE they are there he told me he's sleeved more k5s than he can count and he said he's never seen one like mine he tried every sleeve la sleeve makes and none are even close I told him I had pros (all of you guys) looking into it and that you guys think its a little weird that there could be extra exhaust ports and he said he doesn't care who I talk to he knows for sure I have something special so I will get my cylinder back in a week so I will post pics FOR SURE ohh and the reason I wanted it sleeved is so I don't have to wait 2 and a half weeks to get re plated like I'm doing now I have all the machine tools to bore and hone so I don't have to send it anywhere just buy a piston and go plus the sleeve gives the soft aluminum cylinder some more rigidity plus its A LOT cheaper to bore and hone(free for me) than to ship it somewhere to have it plated plus plating although very hard its also very fragile once you have any kind of proablem they just flake and chip away like mine did plus its easier to seat the rings less chance for blowby those are just my opinions and reason for wanting a sleeve
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I'm sure I speak for everyone here when I say we were not trying to imply he is wrong etc.. We were all just commenting of out knowledge of port options.. And guessing at what a gem you will be sharing..
I for one can't wait to see it
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all of you guys have gave me nothing but GOOD advice and opinions and I appreciate it 100% so don't worry about stepping on toes
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I suppose it depends on what your after and what you have access to.Are you gonna use a forged piston/rod?
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I'm still using the the stock rod, bike had very little hours on it and I've decided to go with the cast pro x just because I feel they will out last a wiesco and have they don't expand contract or flex as much as a forged piston does or so I'm told I have always used wiesco in all my bike before and they are great pistons but I just know some smart ass people that are into metallurgy and they say to try the cast plus I've been reading on forged vs cast pistons and from what I read cast is the way to go for longer life
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I'm still using the the stock rod, bike had very little hours on it and I've decided to go with the cast pro x just because I feel they will out last a wiesco and have they don't expand contract or flex as much as a forged piston does or so I'm told I have always used wiesco in all my bike before and they are great pistons but I just know some smart ass people that are into metallurgy and they say to try the cast plus I've been reading on forged vs cast pistons and from what I read cast is the way to go for longer life
you should read about cast pistons on this site... or any other Big bore... Not turning this into a cast vs forged debate again... as we have had enough of those... just saying..
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,3327.0.html
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I'm still using the the stock rod, bike had very little hours on it and I've decided to go with the cast pro x just because I feel they will out last a wiesco and have they don't expand contract or flex as much as a forged piston does or so I'm told I have always used wiesco in all my bike before and they are great pistons but I just know some smart ass people that are into metallurgy and they say to try the cast plus I've been reading on forged vs cast pistons and from what I read cast is the way to go for longer life
you should read about cast pistons on this site... or any other Big bore... Not turning this into a cast vs forged debate again... as we have had enough of those... just saying..
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,3327.0.html
X2.
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well I read that cast vs forged post and I think I'm more convinced to go with a cast piston even though those pics were pretty gnarly of a failed cast piston, I keep pretty close tab on my clearances and as long as everything stays good and tight I think a cast piston will most definitely out last a forged piston so I'm going to give it a try now don't get me wrong like I said before I have ALWAYS used wiesco in all my bikes and I know they are a quality piston but maybe cast is the way to go for me this time plus semi pistons are cast and they go through serious hell and A LOT of miles so you would think it would be plenty strong for a dirtbike but that's just my 2 cents
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do any of you guys know where I can find a new copper exhaust washer I can't seen to find them anywhere and it seem like a lot of people don't even know there is supposed to be one in there all I here is people replacing the o rings and no mention of the copper exhaust washer (gasket) whatever you want to call it and mine is SHOT its thinner than a piece of paper and I'm definitely not running with out it so if anyone knows where to buy one please let me know I would appreciate it
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you should be able to go right to your Kawie dealer and get one.I have two spares...part# 11009-1949...hope that helps.
That's for 88-04 500...in case you're talking about a different bike that I missed.
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By not running the crush washer, you have more chance of cracking your pipe that's why it's there. The orings are the seal. A little heat resistant RTV on the orings, a little to hold the CW in place, good to go.
Bob W
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well it looks like i might actually have something special, today i decided to check my engine id numbers and it doesn't match any of the factory id numbers my engine number is KX500BE017810 have any of you seen an engine id like this before?
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nope. mine is be 003935.all normal numbers are 4 digit I think, havent got manual handy.
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How many ports are we talking about? My 86 has 8 ports in the sleeve
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well it looks like i might actually have something special, today i decided to check my engine id numbers and it doesn't match any of the factory id numbers my engine number is KX500BE017810 have any of you seen an engine id like this before?
Thanks!
That's great for the VIN.
Here is some engine ID's that as far as I can tell are accurate :-o
1983 KX500 KX500AE00XXXX
1984 KX500 KX500AE0015XX
1985 KX500 kx500BE000001-001800
1986 KX500 kx500BE001801-004100
1987 KX500 kx500BE004101-006600
1988 KX500 kx500BE006601-008500
1989 KX500 kx500BE008501-
1990 KX500 kx500BE010701- 004000
1991 KX500 KX500BE013001
1992 KX500 KX500BE013001
1993 KX500 KX500BE013001
1994 KX500 KX500BE013001
1995 KX500 KX500BE013001
1996 KX500 KX500BE013001
1997 KX500 KX500BE013001
1998 KX500 KX500BE013001
1999 KX500 KX500BE013001
2000 KX500 KX500BE013001
2001 KX500 KX500BE013001
2002 KX500 KX500BE013001
2003 KX500 KX500BE013001
2004 KX500 KX500BE013001
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could it be foreign maybe European or Canadian I just can't find any info on it and I think I'm going to have to go to the kawi dealer in a couple days to see if they know anything
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Get us some pics of the bike..
would help us on our end De-Mystify it..
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its just the motor that's mysterious my vin numbers on the frame are normal for a 95 ohh and I tried posting pics from my touchpad and it won't work, and its all I have so I'll see if I can get my hands on a computer unless one of you guys want to post them for me I can email photos but I can post them
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How many ports are we talking about? My 86 has 8 ports in the sleeve
86 has 8 ports standard.
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well i talked to kawasaki today and they verified that my engine numbers are a match to my vin numbers and it is a standard( US ) 95 kx500 motor and frame so the motor is original to the bike but it still doesn't explain why my cylinder is so weird and i also talked to kustom kraft and i should be getting my cylinder back middle of next week
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Get it back take some good pics of it. Then get it plated, If you have the bike setup right it should last just fine. You don't need a reboreable cly unless you blow it up all the time. (not setup right) My 93 is still all stock on the plating, hate to think of how much gas I have run through that bike.
I have noticed alot of people on here, over thinking, over maintaining, over working, there bikes. Replacing stuff because joe blow said too, not because it needed it.
I have seen 5k plus plus put into a bike that ran perfectly before he got it, now it knocks, leaks and needs to come completely apart again. MORE $$$
Bob W
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well i talked to kawasaki today and they verified that my engine numbers are a match to my vin numbers and it is a standard( US ) 95 kx500 motor and frame so the motor is original to the bike but it still doesn't explain why my cylinder is so weird and i also talked to kustom kraft and i should be getting my cylinder back middle of next week
Maybe you have an Eric Gorr cylinder, Eric was a real port guru back years ago. Maybe he went wild grinding extra ports ??
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well my cylinder is at us chrome right now so I can't get a photo for about another week but I will do it asap
Cant wait !!
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well I should have my cylinder back sometime this week I can't wait!
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well my cylinder was supposed to be back this week and I still don't have it I'm starting to get impatient and anxious I can't take it anymore it better be here tomorrow or I'm calling kustom kraft to let them know how disappointed I am I was supposed to have it a week and a half after I sent it in and then it was two and a half weeks now its been over a month and now you guys know why I wanted a sleeve so this crap doesn't happen I can just do it myself if it was sleeved I could have had it rebuilt in a day not a month I just hope its good work
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well my cylinder was supposed to be back this week and I still don't have it I'm starting to get impatient and anxious I can't take it anymore it better be here tomorrow or I'm calling kustom kraft to let them know how disappointed I am I was supposed to have it a week and a half after I sent it in and then it was two and a half weeks now its been over a month and now you guys know why I wanted a sleeve so this crap doesn't happen I can just do it myself if it was sleeved I could have had it rebuilt in a day not a month I just hope its good work
You think your impatiant.. I live for neet finds like this... I cant wait to see it
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well what do you know no cylinder and they promised it would be here no later than Saturday (today) and its still not here so I guess I'm going to have to call them and give them some words this is unacceptable they don't seem to take any return date serious at all
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be patient, im sure they're swamped at this time of year
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It's tough being at the mercy of the shipping company as well.
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If it was the brown truck they are slow and don't care. I use the white truck and the usps as they are faster and fairly priced. they also work on Sat. where the brown truck doesn't.
Can't wait to see this cylinder.
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well hopefully my cylinder will show up today so I can get some pic up for you guys
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well its here and i have to say im pretty disappointed there is not a single thing that is special about my cylinder the guy at kustom kraft apparently doesnt know much about the kx he thought the small oval exhaust port wasn't supposed to be so I called them back and asked what the deal was and i think he was trying to fit a 86 sleeve into it because he didn't know that 89 and up are different from previous years and he told me he just sleeved an 86 so i think he assumed it was the same and on top of that he sent a wossner piston when i specifically asked for a cast pro x now dont get me wrong im not here to bash kustom kraft they are good people with good intentions and awsome customer service i just think he didnt now as much about the kx as he thought if you guys sill want pics ill email them to motorad to post and im sorry for the long wait for nothing i knew when i took it apart everything seemed normal and i had my cousin look at it too he didn't notice anything either and hes owned a couple k5s. ohh and have any of you used a wossner before i havent just wondering what you guys think of them and to all you guys trying to get me to stay away from cast pistons your wish has been granted :lol:
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Bummer! I for one have been looking forward to hearing some of the more knowledgeable ones here postulating about it.
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Oh? Ooooh! OOOOOHHHH!!!!!
oh.
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Very disappointing news indeed.
Now all's I can do is first go rub one out, and then go hang myself. :-D
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sorry again guys I'm still bummed out myself but I'll try and make up for it with some cool stuff right now I'm working on a k5 powered rigid bobber I am building the entire frame out of 4130 chromoly I even machined my own neck to except the kx tree that I modified to work my goal is to make the fastest bobber/ chopper around its going to be lighter than than the bike it came out of I'm shooting for right at 200lbs or less if I can and when its done it will be featured in the horse back street choppers its not going to be some hobbled together rat bike either it will be a show piece and all the machine work and fab will be done by me so look out for my new topic I'll start posting pics soon! And man I feel like a ugly girl who never gets asked to show her tits, you guys never asked to see my bike!
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And man I feel like a ugly girl who never gets asked to show her tits, you guys never asked to see my bike!
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Show us your pics, even ugly girls need love. :roll: :-D
Bob W
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And man I feel like a ugly girl who never gets asked to show her tits, you guys never asked to see my bike!
I want to step up an apologize for treating you like this. KX500's are always our primary concern. So let me be the first to ask....
can we see pics of your wife/gf tits ? :-D
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And man I feel like a ugly girl who never gets asked to show her tits, you guys never asked to see my bike!
I want to step up an apologize for treating you like this. KX500's are always our primary concern. So let me be the first to ask....
can we see pics of your wife/gf tits ? :-D
here here!
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I'll show you my kx jugs well jug sorry no tits for you :-P oh and I have a question my ring end gaps are at 18 thousands right out of the box shouldn't be closer to 14 or so for a stock bore? And hopefully I'll have pics up this weekend its just about done
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I'll show you my kx jugs well jug sorry no tits for you :-P oh and I have a question my ring end gaps are at 18 thousands right out of the box shouldn't be closer to 14 or so for a stock bore? And hopefully I'll have pics up this weekend its just about done
yes should be closer to 14..
18 is the best your going to get out of a wiseco box
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mine are the wossner rings, so do they all send large gaps on their rings now or what? I've never had a set of rings to big I'm used to gaping them myself is this to prevent damage by people who don't check ring gaps and then blame the piston company when they damage their motor I can't think of any other reason why they would send them so big :?
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CR500 wossner rings also come at .018", SOMETIMES
The one i did last week was at .014"
should be .018-.020" on a single ring no question
I run that single ring stuff big tho, .022" for a race motor :wink:
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mine is double ring