KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: kiwikx500 on February 27, 2012, 09:23:15 AM
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Is it good practice if not using the K5 on a regular basis to kick it over now and again in the garage
to keep the crank-seals lubed or is it not necessary and placing unnecessary wear with all the cold start ups ?
Haven't kicked the dirty 5 over in 6 months, its in part of garage with coolest temperature, if its necessary how long would it take for them to dry out and how often would you have to kick it over ? (Had new seals etc put in 2 years ago, was no mention in the Clymer manual to kick bike over on a regular basis Re winter storage)
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i read some wear that if storing for a long time you should fill the engine with oil. (i am sure it was in a manual). i think it is a good idea to start them every 2 month or so i do with my bikes. just run them up to temp gently
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Re-jet it and put some studs in the tires and run it. Lol
I try to start mine once every couple weeks and let it get to normal operating temp before shutting down. Takes about 20 minutes or so depending how cold it is. Also keeps the carb from getting completely nasty.
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laugh, but when its -20c I hold a bottle torch tot he cylinder until its warm on the opposite side, then she'll start first kick :wink:
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The crank seals are not to worry about, it's the actual crank bearing balls that can develop tiny rust pits over extended periods of storage. When I am thinking I won't be using my 2 stroke for severall months, I shoot a liberal amount of 2 stroke storage fogging oil into the carb while the engine is running. This ensures a thick coating of oil to prohibit internal rust corrosion.
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oiling your mains up and not starting it is what I've heard to be best, as if you keep starting it you will get a moisture build up otherwise. (Quote Stan Stephens)
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The crank seals are not to worry about, it's the actual crank bearing balls that can develop tiny rust pits over extended periods of storage. When I am thinking I won't be using my 2 stroke for severall months, I shoot a liberal amount of 2 stroke storage fogging oil into the carb while the engine is running. This ensures a thick coating of oil to prohibit internal rust corrosion.
I think I just found this ^ the hardway . Bought a bike thats sat for at least 2 1/2 years. Started once in that time ran 2 blocks & then was parked again. I just bought it starts great, runs nice, but gets a little buzz if you wind it out for very far. Thought it was the chain at first but... still doing it. Makes sense anyway
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Seized cranks from rust are less common in dirt bikes, the far more common rust crank seizures come from snowmobiles and Jet Skis, as they sit for very long intervals of off season storage.
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oiling your mains up and not starting it is what I've heard to be best, as if you keep starting it you will get a moisture build up otherwise. (Quote Stan Stephens)
how do you oil your mains with out a tear down. if starting it regularly gives a build up of moisture then a bike that is used regularly would get a build up of moisture and would be worst off than one thats left standing. i no understand :? :? :?
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A car when driven short distances will create moisture in the process of heating up & cooling down. You will see your oil get milky under your oil cap your dip stick will rust up a bit if it continually just sees these short trips. Convection is the scientific term I believe. Where if you run it long enough to really get it up to operating temp you'll burn off that moisture & never see it. Same principle with a bike I would assume. Just sitting in a sunny spot out side would cause similar results in a climate that has large temperature fluctuations. Thats why you store your motor parts inside where the temps dont fluctuate it's not enough just to throw a tarp over them. If you've ever torn down a motor you know you kept covered only to find it all rusty you likely got had by this principle. It was a 400 sbc for me.
On the oiling the bearings: they make a fogger oil that you spray down the filter hole while the bike is running to coat everything thoroughly
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Ohhh the troubble you back east people go through...
here... our off season is the sumer.. as the desert is to hot..
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My story aint back east its high desert with high temp flux, it doesnt even take a humid environment its just the temp change. 110 in the middle of the day down to 60's at night.
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Re-jet it and put some studs in the tires and run it. Lol
I try to start mine once every couple weeks and let it get to normal operating temp before shutting down. Takes about 20 minutes or so depending how cold it is. Also keeps the carb from getting completely nasty.
Every couple of weeks sounds excessive when 80% of wear is on cold start up, you doing a top end rebuild often ? "20 minutes depending how cold" Sure the outside temperature maybe cold but does not take long for the motor internals to warm up to operating temperature.
Cheers to all the replies
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I completely rebuild the entire engine 3 years ago now and still has just as much compression as when I first put it together. I just pulled the flywheel a couple weeks ago to check the crank seal and it's still good. Runs smooth and no odd noises at all. I store mine inside the garage that gets heated almost every day as I'm always working on something.
If there is no snow on the ground I actually ride it in the winter as much as possible.
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mine lives indoors.you might think it wont fit through the door, but the other sex fit through it just fine...... :wink:
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I completely rebuild the entire engine 3 years ago now and still has just as much compression as when I first put it together. I just pulled the flywheel a couple weeks ago to check the crank seal and it's still good. Runs smooth and no odd noises at all. I store mine inside the garage that gets heated almost every day as I'm always working on something.
If there is no snow on the ground I actually ride it in the winter as much as possible.
Sounds good man - how do ya pull the flywheel to check the crank-seals, got to split the cases to replace the crank-seals.
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You can see the sealing lip on the crank with the flywheel out of the way. I just make sure they aren't dry and or cracking. I also randomly (usually twice a year) pull the flywheel and clean any dust or rust off the coils. It's pretty humid here (Bay City, MI) and everything rusts quickly.
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leak down....... visual wont tell ya anything till its WAY too late