KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX100 / KX85 / KX80 / KX65 / KX60 => Topic started by: chris-mets on January 12, 2012, 10:33:31 AM
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Yes I know this is a kawasaki website but you guys are more helpful than any other site! My yz85 I am running 32:1 oil mix in it and I really love how its running. When Im done with a ride there is oil drooling down the pipe and all onto the swingarm. I dont wanna change the jets so should I just run 40:1 mix instead of 32:1?
By the way I fixed the rear brake on it finally!
Chris
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what was wrong with the brake Chris?
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if oil is drooling that badly..
it is RICH..
changing to less oil is only going to make it richer..
Gotta play with the brass in this case my friend.
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It sounds a bit rich or the top end is worn out.
Pull the bowl off the carb and pull your jets out and tell us what size they are.
The numbers will be on the jets.
Also, tell us what position the needle is in as well as your altitude.
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crazy, the brake foot pedal was stuck and hard to move...i freed it up. all it took was time I guess.
Ive fooled around with the jets and air screw a lot with the help of Tuck. I will go check to see what I have on the bike right now. Wouldnt putting less oil in the mix give it less oil to drool out cause I thought the oil drool is unused oil. Im not sure what altitude I am at but it is Midland Park NJ 07432
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Just checked the yz jets and settings. I forgot to update the writing so i had to take it all apart to check. It has a 138 main and 40 pilot. the air screw is 2 turns out and the clip position is the 2nd from the top (factory says 3) . The air screw shows oil around it inside. The carb is off waiting for your guys opinions. Also im running a b9eg plug which is wet, the tip is black and the rest is brown. Also just checked the altitude of Newark NJ which is kind of closeby to me and it ranges from 0 to 273.4 feet (83.3 m) above sea level, with the average being 55 feet (17 m).
Thanks
Chris
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I didn't see your year of bike.
Here is what should be on a 03 YZ85 in stock form.
JET, SLOW (#45)
NEEDLE (NBKF)
JET, MAIN (#138)
Do you run an aftermarket pipe?
Also, I found this on another forum:
If youre mainly riding MX, this bike is near perfect for that stock. THe triple taper gives the bike a snap and a hit that even RC would be impressed. If you're going to trail ride you should replace the stock NBKF needle w/ a needle w/ a larger dia. like an NBKG,2ndclip . This leans out the bottom end and works better for offroading, where you're mainly riding in the 1/16 to 3/8 throttle opening. Also helps w/ spooge control too.
You can also get 1/2 clip position needles from Yamaha if you want to fine tune the 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, and even though moving the clip up/down using one needle almost gets you there, sometimes a 1/2 clip change makes all the differencee in the world. The 1/2 clip needle that's leaner than the stock NBKF-#2 is NBLF@ #1 cip. 1/2 clip richer than stock is NBLF @ #3. THe 1/2 clip in the NBKG #2 needle is the NBLG #1(lean) or NBLG #3(richer).
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Its an 05 yz85. It is a stock pipe and the packing is full of oil so when I get the jetting dialed in I will replace the packing but then that would screw up the jetting too probably. I checked the float height and its good
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When is the last time the top end was replaced?
Did it start to spooge all at once or has it been getting worse over time?
The jetting and needle are the same for 03-05.
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I am not sure when the top end was replaced but I bought the bike in Denville which is kind of a mountainous area. He sold it to me saying that when your done riding just clean up the spooge. It has always spooged and it is reallyyy annoying. I have the 45 so are you saying I should try all the stock settings on the bike? 138 main 45 pilot 3rd clip position...not sure what air screw settings..
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No, going stock will likely make the spooge worse.
Check and see if the number on your needle matches the stock numbers.
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Ok, I checked the needle and it is those 4 letters that you said. What do you suggest I do to solve this oil problem?
Thanks
Chris
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If you have the carb off I would remove the reed valve and look into the cylinder.
Turn it over until you can see the rings on the piston.
Is there any brown or black below the lowest ring?
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I removed the boot and reed valve and the spark plug. When you lightly press the kick starter it spins really nice. The piston doesnt come down far enough to see the rings but you can see the skirt of the piston and its clean/ no brown or blackness. The valve was also really clean and almost brand new looking. What should I do now?
Thanks the help sandblaster
Chris
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Well... My son had a yz85 that spooged like crazy.
The bike seemed to run ok but was black after a bit of riding.
I went through the jetting and it appeared to be perfect.
I took the top end off and it looked good.
But, I replaced the piston and rings anyway and not only did the spooge disappear but it really perked up the power.
I don't know what the numbers are but I would get the compression checked (with a gauge, not by feel) and see where you are.
Beyond this, I'm out of guesses.
Anyone else have some ideas?
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Also the oil that drips out of the exhaust looks kind of wet but people say this is carbon mixing with the oil or something...
I tried to look for a cheap compression tester on ebay but couldnt find one on the cheap side. I have no problem purchasing new rings for the bike then putting em on but I dont want to if its not needed. Anyone on here have a compression tester I could borrow and ill pay shipping or any other ideas?
Thanks sandblaster
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Also the oil that drips out of the exhaust looks kind of wet but people say this is carbon mixing with the oil or something...
I tried to look for a cheap compression tester on ebay but couldnt find one on the cheap side. I have no problem purchasing new rings for the bike then putting em on but I dont want to if its not needed. Anyone on here have a compression tester I could borrow and ill pay shipping or any other ideas?
Thanks sandblaster
You can rent comp testers from so parts stores.. Autozon, pepboys.. Etc.. I'd let ya use mine.. But it says "snapon" on it....
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I understand haha. What do you think this is with the yz motorrad? Do you think its jetting and carb adjustments, my gas oil mix ratio, or the piston/rings? I wanna get this sorted out asap so I can ride some snow.
Thanks
Chris
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Hey Chris,
these guys are all giving you excellent advice, check the compression and report back =)
Your service manual for the KX has all the procedures for checking the compression.
T\o/
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I hope the clymer has another accurate way to check compression other than the gauge cause Im in no luck finding one of those! What do you think it is Tuck? carb adjustment, gas oil ratio, or piston/rings?
Thanks
Chris
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its snowing like crazy today and theres already a lot!!! TIME TO XR!!! Im using my xr cause thats the bike I least care about. KX maybe if the snow stops falling haha but both tires on both bikes are close to bald! Let me know on your opinion below!
Thanks
Chris
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I had a lot of fun today on my xr and Im going out for more in a few! I learned how to do donuts and Im already really good at em! I was looking into a compression tester and I guess I was looking in the wrong place cause the cheapest I found was 50 bucks. I found one but would this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Gas-Engine-Cylinder-Compression-Tester-Testing-Gauge-Kit-Test-relief-valve-/360417568131?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item53ea8fa583
Chris
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Chris,
The test kit you found is the right concept but I would reccomend the type that screws into the spark plug hole as opposed to the type you see in the link where you hold the end of the tester on/in the plug hole. Way too easy to get a bad reading due to leakage, and usually you can't get a straight path to the plug due to the fuel tank and frame etc.
Hold out for a screw in tester. You don't have to get a Motion pro , Park or snap-on kit right off. Keep your eye's open. Craigs list ,ebay , garage sales etc.
Have a talk with the High school Shop teacher, he may show you how to perform the test and use the schools equipment.
I think the guys are right on with the compression test.
Tuck\o/
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Oh I thought that one was a screw in one. Ive gotta look closer I guess. Unfortunately my school doesnt have that program/class available. Basically Im taking English, Art, Spanish, Bio, Gym, History, and Math...Ill keep looking
Thanks Tuck
Chris
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/190556407385?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
I just bought this gauge. When I get it I have to warm up the bike then take the plug out. Screw the tester in and have the gas on or off? Then put full throttle and kick till it reaches the highest number it can (4 or 5 kicks)? Anything I got wrong there and is the gas on or off?
I just put everything back on the bike
Also would I have to replace all the gaskets if I rebuild the top end or could I still use the old ones? Also just rings or piston and rings?
Chris
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I rode the yz for like 3 mins on my driveway and then I parked it and looked at the exhaust oil coming out. It was much lighter than it usually is...It was a whitish grayish creamy color but when you touched it with your finger it was black. THe bike has a ton! of power and exactly what i need but I oredered the tester already so ill test it. I can also use it for my other engines.
Chris
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i have a snap on tester but it had a rubber cone not the screw in type so i cut an old spark plug up welded the threaded part on where the cone comes off ..so if ebay has a cone type you could adapt it ????
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Thanks for the advice royce...I already bought a screw in one as the link is above so its fine...
I looked it up and found that the grayish creamy oil is from moisture....before this the oil looked like it had water in it...so I guess should I drain the tank and engine of all gas and put fresh gas in it? The gas was pretty old in there. What could cause moisture in the mix?
Chris
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just a thought do you pressure wash the bike with a bung in the silencer ,white oil would be moisture ,could be hot engine then in cool place condensation inside pipe or extremes of weather got very cold then mild,metal sweating condensation in pipe ,i take it the coolant level doesnt keep going down
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I dont pressure wash my bikes. I use a rag with fantastik... The yz is the bike that barely gets hot. The coolant level is stable. Im guessing the gas is just moistury from being at a low level sitting in the tank?
Chris
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i would guess if theres that much moisture in the fuel it wouldnt go any sence or at all ,have you drained the bottom of the carb to see whats in there??
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I had the carb opened about 3 days ago....clean and nice...
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Hey guys,
I received the compression tester today and its nice! I did the compression test and followed all the steps and the results...DRUM ROLL PLEASE! a little over 120 pounds...so im guessing its the jetting lol ...Ive done a lot of research and people said that with bad spooge cases, pilot or main jets wont work and its the needle that changes a lot...where should I move the needle clip to? right now its 2nd from the top. Does the levels go from top to bottom or bottom to top?
CHris
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:-D
Top Down on needle position Look through these for help on adjustments and how the different circuits overlap.
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/jetneedles.html
Tuck\o/
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That confused me a lot haha! So I should go to the #1 clip position(top) because #5 position is the richest...Im at #2 right now and stock is #3
Thanks for the article although it confused me!
Chris
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not sure where you are on the needle , in simple terms the higher the eclip on the needle the less fuel lower the e clip on the needle more fuel ,start standard check the plug colour work on unless its tuned id start with standard settings , filter not overoiled or covered with crud ,standard plug? air screw standard?
please dont think i am being condescending in any way ,not sure how up on 2 strokes you are
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Hey royce,
I know a good amount on 2 strokes. Right now im at the 2nd needle clip position from the top and im wondering if the 5th(bottom) position is richest then should I go to #1(top)position to try to lean out so theres not a ton of oil pouring out the exhaust? The air filter is a new uni filter with a lot of sticky oil on it so I should clean that off Im guessing? The spark plug is black...air screw is 2 or 2 and a half out...not sure...
Chris
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Hey royce,
I know a good amount on 2 strokes. Right now im at the 2nd needle clip position from the top and im wondering if the 5th(bottom) position is richest then should I go to #1(top)position to try to lean out so theres not a ton of oil pouring out the exhaust? The air filter is a new uni filter with a lot of sticky oil on it so I should clean that off Im guessing? The spark plug is black...air screw is 2 or 2 and a half out...not sure...
Chris
[/quot set all to standard work from there too much oil in filter same as dirty blocked filter black plug /rich main too big? too much air set air screw at standard clean plug ,warm up bike hold on fast tickover adjust airscrew till revs rise then backoff a smidge ,have you tried a plug chop??does the bike get well thrashed or run slow? is the fuel fresh/high octane? if you have to put the clip at the leanest position the jetting cant be right/have you had a leaking needle in the carb crankcase got loads of fuel in ?
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so basically your saying I should clean the air filter and set all the settings to stock? Ill look up the stock settings but if I cant find them Ill look in my manual tomorrow. Ill look on youtube on what you were saying about the tickover thing? Whats a plug chop? I rev all my bikes a lot and Im waiting till my friends and I can drive so I can go offroading a lot. Right now Its the occasional lawn and driveway riding or up the street. I like speed though! The fuel in the bike is fairly old and shows moisture in it. Its 32:1 93 super gas. Im not sure about the needle leaking. The bike never really leaks gas at all but the kx drips some. I want to buy new exhaust packing for the bike but I dont want to buy it then it get soaked again with oil.
Chris
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sometimes if your havin probs its best to start again ie set all back to standard and start from the begining ,fuel go's off fairly quickly spesh if for arguments sake you have half a tank of fuel , the tanks vented i cant remember what shell told me but it will go off ,its realy about going through a methodical fault finding process ie fresh fuel,check oil ratio,check is the plug the correct heat/type ,check .not being rude but around the lawn/drive or blips up the street will not get the same affect as riding a track ,might not even get up to running temprature ,even when im warming my bike before riding it still needs a good clear out for the first part of the lap to then run correctly ,dont recon you will get it running right until your on a track! just my opinium not gospel. plug chop do a google search if your not confident i wouldnt try it......sorry for the spelling done in a rush!
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Today the bike had 138 main... 40 pilot... 2 turns out... 2nd clip...A little before I changed it to 132 main...40 pilot...2 turns out...1st clip...
I then tested it and there was less oil im pretty sure...Tomorrow I have to open the exhaust and clean as much oil as I can out of it to see it I got the jetting right finally...
I also noticed this about a week ago that say I rev the bike and keep revving it then let it idle in neutral...after a while the bike will get lower and lower in idle and stay REALLY low where you can hear the gears spinning or some sound like that and eventually shut off...Some other times the bike is idling and the idle will get a little higher...The idle isnt even working to keep it on when its about to die out idling...The throttle cable is fine and its not revving when I turn the handlebars...advice?
Chris
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the rattling noise is what you get when most engines are ready to stall,i dont run any tickover on any of my 2 strokes only on my kxf 138 to 132 is quite a jump whats the standard main? the only way to see if its correct is the plug colour ,not ticking over could be mainy things from low compression , piston picking up ,jetting , until you get the basics right you will struggle , as i sugested before do a check list of whats right and what isnt plug range ,fuel etc ,best of luck
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I took the exhaust off my bike today and ran it and saw that oil is still coming from the exhaust hole on the cylinder. I got a great picture of it but the site isnt letting me post it for some reason. It showed the piston and the ring and the oil stain path that it drools down. Right now my bike is:
132 main jet - stock is 138
40 pilot jet - stock is 45
1st clip position - stock is 2nd
I dont really know what to try anymore. I cleaned the air filter too.
Chris
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bang the photo on my email :royceymon@hotmail.co.uk ill have a look !
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just sent it!
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had a look ,could not see alot wrong to be honest ,didnt know if it was a reflection but it looked like the piston is picking up on the bridge ,exhaust port looked quite clean .
could even be the bike hasnt had a prolonged ride to truly warm up especialy if your only going round the garden/down drive ,you realy need to get it on a track ,make sure you check the plug when run could be weak now with the main jet lower!
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Well when I go up the street on it, I go in 6th gear half throttle usually...I actually plan on riding on a track and offroading when im 16 or 17 when me or my friends can drive...would I even be able to ride the 85 class at that age? I think im gonna just try emptying the gas in the tank ( not a lot in there) and mixing up a 50:1 and trying it? The bike also smokes a lot but you guys say its from my cheap oil mix. Should I try to buy better oil and see if theres no spooge left? Send me over things to try and what to buy hehe that rhymes. Should I buy a new plug and new packing for the bike, although I dont wanna buy 15 dollar packing and have it get ruined again from oil...
I just ordered a box of 4 new b9eg plugs for it which its been running this whole time from my local shop and theyll be in on monday... Should I just try my best to clean the old packing and the whole exhaust of oil and put the new plug in and put it all together and see how it does? I dont mind a little oil but its giving off a TON!
CHris
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wouldnt worry about the packing ,the only difference will be the noise , i wouldnt run 50:1 bit weak i always run 40:1 ,get the best 2t oil you can afford , fresh high octane fuel ,up the street will not achieve a fair result need to ride it as it was designed for realy, without being rude i think you need someone/dad to look at it thoroughly ! hope you get it sorted.
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My dad isnt into any of this stuff and he doesnt know really anything about it either haha. Ive been learning on my own. Ill search for really good oil for my kx and yz...Ive been running the same mix in my kx and yz so ill look for oil and ill buy 10 dollar packing.
Thanks
Chris
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years ago when i had an x7 with microns on it i used to use loft insulation !!!!
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did it work? I have extra insulation to my house that I can use...does it work?
Chris
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Hey guys,
I tried the house insulation and it works great! This is what I did to my bike and how it is now:
same jets and settings...turned up idle a little
same 32:1 mix that I never took out or did anything
new house insulation packing
cleaned the exhaust as best as I could
put another air filter that I had to the bike with less oil on it
new spark plug
It now has barely any spooge at all and stays running. Im talking theres only 1 tiny drip at the end which im loving now! Hopefully it doesnt come back when the packing is soiled again. The only problem now when I gunned the bike up the street and I was going through the high gears, when you give it more throttle it kind of jumps back a little(misses and acts like it hits a wall then continues) and im not talking about backfiring. its like your trying to give more throttle and its giving jolts of holding back...I was looking on google and am I right that this is a rich main jet?
I should check the plug color tomorrow
Thanks
Chris
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Still didnt get to checking the plug color but could it be a rich main or should I drop the needle clip to the 2nd position again from the 1st?
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Still having the engine cutting out? any ideas?
Chris
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Also the oil that drips out of the exhaust looks kind of wet but people say this is carbon mixing with the oil or something...
I tried to look for a cheap compression tester on ebay but couldnt find one on the cheap side. I have no problem purchasing new rings for the bike then putting em on but I dont want to if its not needed. Anyone on here have a compression tester I could borrow and ill pay shipping or any other ideas?
Thanks sandblaster
I found a cheap comp tester.
It was on e-bay and cost about $20.00 if memory serves me.
I will look for the site if that is in your price range.
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Thanks but I had already picked one up on ebay and the compression is on the high side! I fixed that issue with the oil and theres no more oil. Only problem now is the cutting out while giving gas. Im wondering if I go bigger or smaller main or clip, etc. Thanks
Chris
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Well lurking though here, I have to jump in. I'd seen on page 3 a compression test was done and spec'd out at 120psi and no one caught it. That's way too low. 150 is about the time to change rings or topend. Good averages for a test is about 185-205. Did you hold throttle WOT while kicking?
Not that you're fighting a sputtering issue, move the clip up on the needle. If it gets better then it still does it even on the top position, you may need a different needle. It's not uncommon to replace the needle. Just most don't need it for a decent jetting tune on a stock or piped motor.
here's a little something funny with a 125 with 65psi compression.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8e7n0lCDYxE
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Old thread...new questions.
Is there a power valve on that YZ? If the power valve isn't working as it's supposed to, it could contribute to the poor performance you're experiencing.
What about the crank seals? If the clutch side crank seal is toast, you could get plug fouling and oily spooge in the exhaust even if your jetting is perfect. Side note:if the magneto side crank seal is similarly damaged, you'll get a lean condition instead.