Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Project "I was only gonna clean the air filter!"

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USMC 500:
OK so I'm starting another topic on the same topic that started over a year ago.  Let me catch everyone up.  Went to clean my air filter because the bike was running like crap and 3 hours later it was down to the frame!!

Here is the link to my original post for this project.....
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,6905.0.html

So here are some pictures of whats happened in the last couple of days.  Some will be followed by questions for all of you kx500 masters.  

The Frame after powdercoat....silverado silver.


Other than the primary is there anything else that needs to come off before the cases are split?


The rod is supposed to slide side to side slightly, however this rod also rocks side to side slightly....bad rod or bearing?


Should there be this much oil build up were the kips assembly sits?


Here is the cylider.....place comments here....lolll


Bottom of the jug....comments here....lolll


And finally, the book says I should have 2.6 to 3.6 ohms of resistance on the primary side of the coil and I have .5 ohms.  My leads have .3 ohms of resistance by themselves.  Is this were the extra resistance is comming from?

sandblaster:
On your crank, how far does it rock back and forth at the wrist pin?
We have found the following after they have been rebuilt from Hot Rods and others.
.020" New
.060" or less: Still usable
.060" or Greater: at the end of it's service life.
We have seen them still going at .120" but............

Just my .02 cents, If I was going to split the cases, I'd just re-build it.
Then again I like to sleep at night  :|

Motorrad:
Lets see.. where to start.

Splitting cases...
I notice in one of your pics.. the flywheel is on the motor... You must remove flywheel.. as this side is the case that will come off (and leave trans gears in the other case).
(like this)


You must remove the gear that is on the crank itself.. as well as the one tward the rear on one of the trans shafts. (there are 2 snap rings on this shaft, one above gear (you can see) and one under it, once you pull it.. both need to be removed...  (take out the kick start assembly as well.. or it will just fall out. and you will have to deal with picking up the pieces)









ROD
Ill dig out the specs on it... But UP AND DOWN play is what you need to worry about mostly..
But if your there... its only like $60 to have it rebuilt (labor) then parts..
Need i remind you what a failed rod bearing looks like..


 JUG.
Hard to tell from pics.. but looks like it needs a plate job...

How are the intake bridges? cracked like they all do? exaust bridges cracked? hard to see somteimes... look close

Coil..
Digging out specs...

USMC 500:
Remove Rotor.....gotcha, up and down play on the rod is not happening but its good insurance to just have it rebuilt anyway, and remove kick start assembly, and both gears, gotcha....thanks boss.....much gratitude to all those on this site.

Motorrad:

--- Quote from: USMC 500 on March 14, 2011, 05:53:34 PM ---Remove Rotor.....gotcha, up and down play on the rod is not happening but its good insurance to just have it rebuilt anyway, and remove kick start assembly, and both gears, gotcha....thanks boss.....much gratitude to all those on this site.

--- End quote ---

I think you have your specs wrong on the coil (or you made a typo)

Coil specs
Primary (Lead to metal body of coil, then to signal wire)
0.26-0.36 Ohms

Secondary (lead to metal body of coil, then to plug wire)
2.6-3.6 K Ohms

This is at 68deg F

I would Bypass the (bullet plug) for testing... as they are Poor.. especially getting on in their age... (all the connectors on my bike have been replaced with marine grade spade lock

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