Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Bearing Removal/install and such

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delphipro5:
Hi again, I am starting this thread in the hopes It may shed some light on the subject of Bearings. I have just removed the shock and linkage on my KX500 (along with everything else!) Reference the thread : monument to the 2-stroke to see the project.
 Anyway, I want to replace ALL the bearings/seals as I go, but they are all pressed in and won't budge. For my stem races in the frame I bought the OEM removal tools to do it the right way, but they cost a lot! I had a local car mech. I know remove the lower stem bearing for me, and he marred up the stem OK doing it. :x so I mean, He even had trouble with it and he's got a whole garage full of tools! I am not really in the mood to buy a 10 ton press and a complete set of bearing remover / presser dies For this project. :| BUT, I will not be heating the crap(not good) out of all my cast aluminum parts to watch the bearing FALL OUT on my desk!! :roll: Nore will I be bringing a Dremel anywhere NEAR anything on this bike!! :| Nore hammer and chisel either! :? some one told me you could use sockets for most of the pressing in and out but you still need a press. If anyone has any good ideas let me know. I am wondering if I just buy the OEM bearing press set if it would be worth it in the long run. I would probably need a bunch of removers too.... I just wish I new how the real shops do it!

Next is the subject of lubeing all these bearings. Obviously the new ones just come with a light protector oil on them, and they need to be packed with grease right?? SO, What is the best stuff to use? White lithium, regular bel-ray tub packing grease, mobile one frame fitting grease synthetic, or all different for different applications? what is the best way to pack them? What do the shops use?

well that's it, if ya got input leave it here. :wink:

Hillclimb#42:
Well, I feel what you're sayin' about goin caveman on the bike that is your baby costing lots of dough to restore, but it is that simple. An old socket that is just a hair smaller than the bearing can be beat out pretty easily. A little heat on the area around the bearing aids in breaking it loose. Trust me, you can break castings and factory seems with the press tool, too. I have spent alot of time with suspension bearings trying to be careful. Its only when you get sick of messin' around that bearings start falling out. Use a block of wood to back up your parts and either the right socket or punch, will knock them right out. Freeze the new bearings, then a little heat on the hole, and you don't have to beat the crap out of your new bearings.

I noticed the same deal with wheel bearings. No grease. The seals pop right off on wheel bearings, and surprisingly enough, barely any grease in there. Some experienced guys on here pointed out that over packing them is bad, but a little grease makes them last longer. I have no preference on grease, as long as it is a good name brand.

Motorrad:
 Mix up my own Potion.   Mix of syn marine wheel bearing grease and cv axle grease...   Best I havE found for lots of Milage and racing

kxpegger:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...ategory/tools/

There's a right way and a wrong way to install needle roller bearings. Right tool for the job. Also you press against the stamped side which is thicker than the rolled side. A lot of people use sockets, nuts. washers and a piece of allthread to push them in and this may cause damage to the bearing housing. The press tool should have a 15 degree back cut.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/solution...n_Part3of3.pdf

greencannon:
Traveling tool shows always have cheap 12ton shop presses and various sockets that work great for this application. Do some digging around you'll find one.
 I currently use a LARGE bench vise and various sockets. One small socket to push out old bearing and a large enough one on other side for wasted bearing to fall into. A friend to help hold the pc while cranking the vise helps process but is not required. If i were to run a shop or performing this task frequently I would puchase the factory or high quality tools, but these work just fine.
I used to heat, freeze, hammer and smack stuff back in the day but that got old and i have wisened up since.

 As for damaging needle bearings and races with sockets and such, I keep most old bearing sleeves around and cut them into different lengths. I temporary install them into new bearing with grease (to help them stay put) before apllying force to new bearing. The needle bearing and race strength is greatly reduced without sleeve. It will not deform or get damaged  when sleeve in place and a press of some sort is used (do not hammer)
My linkage bearing woes have all gone since I adopted this method. works like a charm

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