Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
Jetting!!! Again and again and again!
gowen:
Gotcha, I will take a look at that this evening after work.. (6pm :roll: ) and I will change the float and needle valve thingy out. Maybe we can find a end to this mess... :!:
Sharc:
Amen....and we can all go riding again.... :wink:
Make sure your jetting is close to stock, especially the pilot, cuz if the float seal was leaking and you fix it, your crazy jetting might grenade your motor....
kawdude:
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Thanks Paul and Kawdude for your help!!
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Gowen, thanks for the acknowledgement. I'm just putting out thoughts because I need to go thru the same grueling mess (with idle pops) but now we have a lot of information regarding jetting. Paul (and many others) are the experts. I'm a novice. Now did the clip stay in the 3rd notch or the 2nd?
Regarding the floats...you are measuring from the bowl seat to the bottom (top) of the float. If so that's really low. I think the backasswards way to do it is to just make sure its parallel to the bowl seat. Keep posting your results. It's appreciated!
I would be very pissed if the main seal was leaking. If you do check and it is leaking raise hell with Gorr because I think he outsources the engine rebuilding part. No matter what you still own a great bike and I've really enjoyed following and contributing to this. Can I hire you out to jet my bike??? :o
On a side note, years ago I had a 75 GT80 that would foul plug daily and I thought it was normal to drip black oil out the pipe. Now I know why and I can fix it!!! If I can only find the bike. :shock:
gowen:
Well, I just got back from the garage... I have two carburators. So, I took the float from the other carb and adjusted it so the float is real lean. I installed it and took it for a ride. I did put the needle back to the center. Which is the best for the way I like to ride. I think I could stand another step up on the main, but we will see! Well, with the air screw out 2.5 turns, I still could not get an idle. But, hey, it quit smoking 8)... I decided to take the carb out and try to drop the float even more *less fuel* and it still did not idle, but it cleaned the bottom up real nice, but it did not seem to have any power. So, I had a clear bottom end (well from idle to 1/8 was horrible, but 1/8-1/4 was responsive and no smoke). So, being annoyed like I was, I decided to experiment. I removed the seat and the air filter. No idle..... So, I decided to remove the air screw completely! :x No idle. I then took my air compressor and blew air into the airbox while holding the throttle, hoping the forced air would help lean it up..... no idle! :cry: This is with the idle screw in to the point of smashing the spring. So, I then return the 45 pilot and guess what! :!: It idles! So, I return everything back to normal. It idles! But bearly, kinda puff puff puff puff then die. But, that is more than it was! With everything put to normal and the correct float (adjusted so so) it still idled but just like before, kinda slowly and roughly and the smoke returned, which does not bother me much.... So, I decided (since I have two), I would cut the spring like kawdude.. :D Returned the 52 pilot and got an idle. :-) But, you can tell, I believe it is a tapered (gas is coming from the needle instead of the pilot) idle. Kinda at my whits end. I think my next move, over the weekend, is to try to install the other carb (same exact carb, just dirty to hell).
So, back to square 1. I have gained alot of performance from the mid-top. I did make a few runs with the bike together and the idle screw (with half the spring) and it seems to surge a bit now. With the clutch in, kinda like the RPM's are normal then a surge of RPM for a split second. I'm assuming cause it does not like to be idled by anything other than the pilot.
Does anybody else cut the springs besides Kawdude and myself? Is that a normal idle? Or I'm assuming it should really idle even without the idle screw. But, who knows. I have the bike together and I am the same as yesterday just with a shorter spring and some idle. But, still wanting it to be correct. You know, nothing like the real deal instead of a rig.
On the bright side, I was riding my '97 cr250 and took a nice sliding turn and threw the chain into the crank and smashed it.. :D Oh well, I still want the KX to idle. :roll:
kawdude:
I hate to see you start with the other carb. I think your pretty close but I understand your frustration. The problem has to be in the floats or the float jet. Is the rubber on the needle jet in good shape?
Somewhere I read that if you have to go past 2.5 turns out or less than 1 turn in then either the needle jet or the pilot jet needs to be adjusted up or down.
As far as the spring cutting goes, it is unorthadox but is done often. I'm not saying that its right to do but if it works cool.
Here's a thought...again just a free opinion! Since this bike is 520 that changes what the carb was spec'ed out for by Kaw. Now I think that the carb itself should be able to be adjusted for the cc change of 20cc. But I don't know. A 100cc change I could see that a different carb may be needed. With the change the jetting chart Pitbull has provides is going to be off but still should be close. The 42 pilot that you are running scares the heck out me. I keeping looking for information for you and post what i find.
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it seems to surge a bit now
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I have the idle surges also. And I believe they are caused by gas getting into the cylinder when it shouldn't. Such as when the slide is down mix is still coming in. Possibly a wore slide. I replaced mine and that didn't help. Deal with the surges later by backing the idle screw out all the way so when you let off on the gas the slide is completely closed. If it still happens there's a problem with the carb or slide.
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