Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
Jetting!!! Again and again and again!
raredesign:
--- Quote from: kix500 on February 13, 2007, 09:11:38 AM ---could somebody give me a good start point to jet for 6000'-8500' ii tried the jetting chart and seems to rich. what is happening is, the bike seems to run ok as long as you are on the gas but if you idle down a tight trail for a couple blocks to a mile the bike will die unless you keep reving it. then when you come to a rock or stump or something and try to blip over it the bike bogs. i have tried a smaller pilot but dosn't seem to have the botom power when it is cleaned out. the bike is a 97 kx 500. with a platnum pipe boysen reeds and milled head.
current jetting is i think.
air 2.5 turns
pilot 55 or 52?
needle stock 82m? can't remember the number but its stock. top clip pos
main is a 165 or 158??
it has been a couple months since i been in the carb, i will go check for sure tomarrow.
srry i daon't have all my info for sure.
thanks
cory
--- End quote ---
Wow, and that is too rich?...I am running 62 / 175
kix500:
like i said im lost. i read on here bout guys at sea level -4000' with jetting like 38 pilot and 155 mains, i thought the higher in elivation you go the leaner you should be thats why i am stumped.
thanks :?
KXcam22:
KIX500,
At altitude you will always need leaner jetting, simply less O2 per volume of air. I think you might be getting confused with Gowens bike which is heavily modified and we ended up going quite a bit leaner to make it run well (and run well it does.....). At your altitude you will likely need to start with a 50 pilot to get it to idle. I run 58/165 at 3000-6000 and it is too rich at 6000'. The needle will be the tough one since the stock N82M is barely ok dropped all the way down. I would suggest getting the pilot and main about right before messing with the needle. Here is what I would suggest:
1. Dial the main. Do some plug runs with new cheap plugs. I would suggest starting at 160 and going smaller to 155. A slight uphill works the best then stop it with the kill button. If you single track ride like me I tend to run the main a touch lean since I don't spend much time wide open.
2. Set the pilot so you can get a nice idle and the bike pulls clean off the bottom. I would suggest starting at a 52 or 50. This is mostly adjusted by riding feel and engine sound.
Make sure you only change one thing at a time. When it is time to adjust your needle post back and I can give you some more guidance. You can use the Kawasaki needles or get them cheaper from Sudco. Hope this helps. Cam.
Marc S:
I just purchased my 90 KX500 a few weeks ago from the original owner. I have not riden a dirt bike in 20+ years. Since it sat in his garage for the last 4 years I decided to rebuild it. I took it out for the first time yesterday even though it was raining and very muddy. I am in Seattle and the temp was 50 degrees. I went on a 25 mile ride in the woods that was very confined and only got out of 1st gear a couple of times. The bike will not idle very long and had to help it by holding the throttle open in the really tight stuff. When I would get the chance to give it full throttle, it would take a few seconds to clear out, sometimes 1/2 way throught 2nd gear. I then found a 1/2 mile dirt road and ran it through the gears while racing my friends KXF250, I could barely pull him and my KX500 never pulled the front tire off the ground. My bike sounded clean, not loaded up. It starts up within 3 kicks cold or warmed up. The plug is black but I had to idle back to camp. It is very possible that the tire was spinning, it was very wet out. It was still great fun but I belive it has jetting issues. I pulled the carb off today and this is what I found.
Pilot-48
Main-160
N82M needle, second groove from the top
#6 slide
For those of you riding at sea level with cool temps what do you suggest. I would go by the jetting chart but after reading this post it appears to be on the rich side.
KXcam22:
Marc,
Congrats on the new bike. Before starting on the jetting I suggest you should confirm that the compression is within spec. Low compression will make a bike act like it is running rich, and it will be much slower. I am assuming that you have set the float level correctly when you rebuilt the carb. Post back when you have confirmed the compression. Cam.
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