Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Spokes that fit without drilling?

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Rd:
I used the pro spokes from RMATV on the wheels for my 90 K5. The rear was not an issue and the front had to be drilled.
I may get one of these.

 http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?&navType=type&webTypeId=168&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=26856

Goat:
Looks like a nice stand RD. I may get one myself.

Hopefully you are able to get your wheels done for a reasonable price oci0. I hate when businesses turn people away because they didn't buy product from them. Money is money but because they don't get to overcharge you for the parts they tell you to find someone else.

BDI:
when you build a wheel the first thing you want to do before taking the wheel appart is figure out what the offset is in MM. when you take the wheel appart lay the spokes out in a way that you know where they came from. You will have inner and outer spokes and left and right spokes. Sometimes they can be all different lengths so keeping every thing in order will help you figure out what length spokes go where. when you put the wheel back together start at the valve stem hole and make sure each spoke goes out away from the valve stem hole. If you build the wheel with the spokes crossing the hole you will have problems putting air in the tire or putting the bead lock in not to mention it's just not right. Once you get all the spokes in you want to run the nipples down until you get to the last thread on each spoke   (I use antiseize on my nipples :-D).Once you have done this then you know all your spokes are at the same length. then you take a marker and number three spokes in a row 1,2 and 3 then you start going around the wheel skipping to every third spoke nipple and give it a turn. Once you go all the way around move to the second spoke and do it again then to the third spoke. after you go around all three times you will have hit every spoke on a 36 spoke wheel. keep doing this until you get tentioned, once the wheel is tentioned then you true the wheel. You true the wheel by loosening the spokes on one side and equily tightening on the other side. once the wheel is true its time to set the offset, you do this by loosening all the spokes on one side and tightening them all on the other. make sure you do everything you do equily if you loosen a spoke on one side half a turn then you need to tighten the spoke on the other side half a turn or the wheel will not turn out right. Do not over tighten the spokes or the wheel will crack do to lack of flex in the wheel. wheels need to flex some to live. Have fun and if you read all that you are a trooper. :-) dont forget wheels have a break in period. you have to stay on top of spoke tention as the spokes stretch in. if you do this right you will have a trouble free wheel for a long time.

don46:
Brian has outlined it pretty good if you follow those instructions you will get the job done. A couple of other notes, Buchanan Spokes are first rate and probably the best I've used, some of the less expensive have a tendancy to strectch more. typically spokes are a cross 2 pattern, sometimes you get spokes that require a cross 3 pattern, these are supposed to be stronger than a 2 pattern, all this means is that each spoke will cross 2 or 3 other spokes, so if you try to do a cross 2 with cross 3 spokes they will be to long. As Brian mentioned, anti seize is your friend, not today but later as you need to tighten your spokes. And the offset is so critical, if you go in with no idea your bike may not track straight.

 I don't like the stand you for the link that RD posted, or maybe I'm not seeing all of it, but it appears the shaft is floating and since I use a dial indicator to true my wheels I would constaly be changing it even rolling the tire over would cause it to change. The stand I use has fixed points so when tightened the hub stays in a constant position.

Most wheels are extruded and rolled so there is always a spot that is flat where they weld them together, Sun Rims are the truest I've seenm they to are made by Buchanan.

oic0:
All of that sounds like a headache and room for me to screw up. Does the replacing them one at a time method avoid all of that? Also, what goes wrong and what feels wrong when one is out of true or spaced improperly? I can't tell anything is wrong with my bike even riding at high speed so does that mean they are relatively true right now?

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