Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

2001 price

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Polar-Bus:
I would NEVER, EVER buy a bike off Ebay. There's just too many scumbags trying to use Ebay to hide issues. I paid $1900 for my '01 back 4 years ago. Thought it was in excellent condition, but trashed pivot bearings, destroyed inner subframe (chain rubbing), and rear spokes that were almost ready to fall out. So no matter what every used bike has some sort of gremlins. I'm anal about my bikes, I want them perfect, and I want them to start every time and run perfect on a sunday when i'm ready to ride !

blueoval:
I paid $1,500 for a 2000 k5 last year.  The motor was solid with a good top end and good seals.  I put over $1,000 into it.  O ring chain, sprockets, tires, throttle cable, air filter, desert tank (the original one was leaking), petcock, handle bars, hand guards, grips, brake pads, brake lines, and a few other little things.  The bike is very reliable now and I feel pretty good about the $2,500 I have in it total.  I looked at a couple of $900 bikes and they were basket cases that were ready for the scrap yard.  I would spend around $2,000 or so and get a decent bike to start with.    I agree with Polar-Bus that a reliable bike is very important.  I want a perfect bike, but I am sure perfect just isn't possible, but I do my best to keep it well maintained so I can enjoy my Sunday rides.  just my opinion

Big Daddy J:
I'm right with you blueoval, most peoples' like new is average to me, at best ( I call it a curse ). Anyone got an opinion on what I said about pulling the top end down after a few rides? I used to repair outboard motors/boats for side money, could tell alot by looking at the tops of the pistons,plugs and cylinder walls. (used a bendy light to look at the tops and the cylinders). Unfortunately it looks as though it would be hard to get a good straight on look into the cylider bore through the spark plug hole with a bendy light and looks as though there is no plate to pull off (outboard motors generally have an exhaustcover)on the hot side of the piston to see any scoring or lack of lubrication/lean condition. Can't figure any other way to see what's actually going on in there other than pull it apart. Would rather find a minor problem before it turns into a major problem or worse. Also, correct me if I'm wrong, with the chrome bore on the cylinder of these engines,theoretically the only parts that should wear are the piston and ring(s), I understand that in the real world things happen that may disclaim this, but in reality what can I expect to see with this set-up?

Danger4u2:
 
KX500 FEATURES

Electrofusion Cylinder

Improves heat transfer for consistent power output
Porous so it holds lubrication well and it resists abrasion and seizure
Allows closer engine tolerances for more horsepower

http://www.maxrpms.net/shop/

oic0:
The cylinders do wear, just slowly.
As for tearing it down when you get it, its not a bad idea, but it will cost you $50 in gaskets. I did it with mine because I thought for sure it had piston slap. It was just the power valve rattling around. If you do tear it down, definitely clean the powervalve and possibly rotate the pins. When the pins wear it lets the middle piece flop around noisly and it doesn't work as well, not that they get silent even when perfect, they were created with a lot of tolerance so they don't freeze up from carbon too soon.

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