Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
New too site first question.Bar risers
bigdan:
Thanks for the info i'll start looking at those sites and make some calls.
Rick:
Sorry to get in on this post late, but I've been busy getting the motors in both the 500 and 125 freshend up for the National Hare & Hound on Sunday.
I used a set of Pro Taper bolt on bar towers from a CR80 that I had laying around, as they are taller by a full 1 inch. The bar towers originally mounted with two small bolts on the bottom of the tower, so all I had to do was drill/tap one really big offset hole. I believe I tapped for 7/16", and just ran the bolt through the stock rubber mounts.
Now, you have to realize that I'm cheap, and have even made the chain guide on both bikes. My phylosophy is that if I can make it, I won't buy it. However, I believe there are couple of companies offering taller towers, DH1racing being one of them.
I also increase the height of my seat so my legs were not bent beyond the 90 degree point when I am sitting. To do this, I purchased new 1/2 taller seat foam from CEET, and then glued/shaped my stock seat foam on top. Added between 2 & 2 1/2 inches. I was even able to heat and stretch my original black seat cover over the new taller seat. Even after more than 2 years of riding, still have that same stock seat cover. Tough, tough, tough. As a note, most good upholstery shops can make and cover new seat foam for you for about $35. Turns out it would have been cheaper than buying the taller seat foam from CEET.
Rick
bigdan:
Thanks for the info Rick.I'll think i'll just take the seat too a upholsterer seems cheaper.I like too make my own stuff also i was thinking of just making my own bar risers doesn't seem very hard.Thanks for the info.
Another question for you Rick.I'm sure you run a stabilizer i want too run a scotts.Do you have any problems with running one with the bar risers being a inch higher.THanks Again
Rick:
Well, now that's an interesting question. While I use the Scott's dampener, I make my own pin support. I use a 1/2 inch grade 5 bolt (cut the threads off and just use the bar stock) and center drill it with a 5/16 drill. You really need a drill press to center drill, and I made a little jig out of a section of 1 inch angle iron with a small piece of 1/2x1 welded on the side that I can clamp in the milling vise. It's tough to visualize, but the 1/2 bolt section is clamped into the angle iron with vice grips and then the angle iron is clamped in the vice with the little tab that is welded on the edge. This jig holds the 1/2 bolt section in a straight line with the drill bit, so I get a straight hole.
With that all said, if you do not have access to a drill press, visit your local machine shop and have them bore a hole for a few bucks. It should take them just a few minutes, so should be cheap. Either way, you get your pin holder. The length and hole deptgh will have to be determined after you install your higher towers, but is not critical.
Once your pin holder is complete, purchase a grade 8 - 5/16 (or comporable metric) bolt with a good section that is unthreaded. This will become your pin. Cut off the head and threads, and carefully flatten the bolt on each side with a grinder so it fits in the arm of the dampener. Your pin should not be more than 2 inches long at most, and better to be a little shorter. Also, you will have to weld on your custom pin holder, but is a snap with either a wire feed or a stick welder (tougher with a stick, so the guy welding has to be good).
As a final note, I used to weld on gussets at the bottom of the pin holder, but found that they are not really required, and ahve never had a pin holder bend.
If I have been too confusing, let me know and I'll try again.
Rick
mikesmith:
Thats a good idea,saves a few bucks on the Scott set up to,thanks!
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