Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
Silencer Repacking
Polar-Bus:
--- Quote from: blueoval on January 08, 2010, 02:10:43 PM ---It sort of was attached, but it came out the outlet and another "pipe" came out the inlet. Oh well, it's completely apart now. thanks
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You don't need to remove both ends, usually just the inlet. Next repack, spray some PB blaster around the cap to soften up the baked carbon. Use some propane heat around the aluminum body, and the core assembly should be easier to remove.
tip #1) wrap the glass packing as tight as possible, then wrap masking tape around the wrapped packing and jam the core into the body.
TheGDog:
--- Quote from: JustinSB on January 06, 2010, 06:53:21 PM ---Remove the bolts at the "entrance" end. Then place that end in a vice and pound the s**t out of the silencer body with a mallet.
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MAN... you are NOT KIDDING! I just got finished taking mine off. I DO NOT RECOMMEND doing it like I did. I used a Rubber Mallot and had to smack a screwdriver all around the edge of the canister where it meets the insert. Doing this definitely uglied-up the aluminum something fierce. But in my case it seemed like the only thing that would work and removing that dang inlet. There's really no good way to grab that thing.
Can anyone tell me a trick for when I put this sucker back together that will make it more easy to pull back out of the canister body the next dang time I have to re-pack?
I assume I'm supposed to put high-temp silicone all around the edge of the inlet where it meets-up with the canister... but I'm wondering if that's really even needed? I was kinda contemplating maybe even putting a thick grease around it's edge to help ensure I can get the dang thing off next time. Would this be all that bad of a thing to do?
mwalker04:
flyingfitz:
Definately use the high temp RTV. Put some in the threads of the keeper screws too. I used aluminum pop rivets to install the turbine section. If I do it again, I would use regular rivets. The aluminum ones are already loose??
Fitz
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