Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
Parts suggestion, want to change powerband
YUNGGUNNAZ:
the flywheel weight change is good to smooth out hp hit in the power curve but it will give more torgue.with low # rear sprocket look for clutch use to mangage wheelie at the start.use a lower front sprocket(even the stock one)with what you have on back to allow bike to spin away some before wanting to come up.thicker base would also give more mid range by raising tranfer and exhaust ports.retard the timing a little helps on the top.whats left is to lay that 240 over the front, take a deep breath,twist the throttle let her rip cause these guys just put you a rocket.
kawdude:
YEP!
John:
You could also try the Moose spacer kit. It's another "cheap" solution which more or less addresses the same problem.
//John
teamgreen500:
The gearing change is the cheapest fix. ESPECIALLY if you an go up 1 tooth on the front (About the same as going DOWN 3 teeth in the back; BUT, A LOT CHEAPER!) :wink:
Another UNKOWN secret...so...don't tell anyone...Shhhhhhhh! 8)
The FMF "Fatty" and (More so) the DG "Fat-Pipe" will increase your upper mid to top end power while "Mellowing" the bottom. Playing with the jetting when using these pipes is also helpful. The combination of gearing and Pipe will give you a very "LINEAR" feel! You'll pull harder and longer than those fashionable "Thumpers". If you want a D.G., I've got one that I've never used...p.m. me.
The flywheel weight isn't one of my favorites(I don't run one), it can cost me too much acceleration out of turns/berms...especially when it's really nice out and I'm Hookin' it up like the Bigs! :lol:
Good Luck,
Manny
Rick:
Smaller rear sprocket (48 tooth) and flywheel weight get my vote. There are disadvantages to the flywheel weight, but for the recreation rider, I believe the tradeoffs are worth it. I have been running one for awhile now, and don't bother to take it off for races.
Good luck.
Rick
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