Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Rebuilding 5 hunny ???s

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kawdude:
good point!

kawdude:
All,
Putting the cases back together and after I tightened the bolts the tranny is bound up.  Loosen the bolts it turns freely and shifts.  Any ideas??? I goint to attempt to remove the spacer I spoke of before but I'm sure it was there when the engine split/

kawdude:
Took apart the lower end and reassembled it.  Tranny is fine(turns) but haven't tried to shift it yet.  I notice that the crank turns tightly and I believe I read that I need to center the crank by beating on the ends.  Is this right?  How hard can I wack it?

Here are Rick's instructions...

--- Quote ---7-Once the cases are together, use a dead blow hammer to relieve the crank by tapping once or twice on the flywheel end of the crank. If you try and turn the crank before you do this, you will find it turns very hard. Afterwards, it turns easily. Also, check the distance between each crank half and the bearing with a feeler gauge. I try and get the crank centered, with even distance on each side. Not sure if this is that important, but it would seem to be a prudent step. You will probably find the crank is not centered. You can move the crank just slightly with your case splitting tool by just pushing on the proper end of the crank with a little pressure. Releive the crank after centering and recheck the distance.
--- End quote ---

Pinchy:
Does any one have the service limits of the crank and piston/cylinder handy?

Ive got the suplemental service manual and most of what it talks about is service of the suspensionm and doesnt give any limits of engine components.

Right now Im wondering if my big end clearance is ok.
Ive got about .018" of side clearance on the big end
and cant really see any on the vertical play.

My old yz490 manual says .020 for it, I dunno if that would be close for a kx500 tho.

Rick:
Hmmm, never owned a manual, so can't help there.

As for "...beating on the ends (of the crank)...", I think I meant to say TAP on the end with a dead blow hammer.  Oh, wait, that's what I did say... :lol:

Seriously, it only takes a couple of smacks to relieve the crank.  As long as the hammer material is softer than the crank material, you should not damage the end of the crank.

As for tranny bind, you need to be careful to get the sifter hub in the case bearing straight or you will crack your shifter hub when you tighten the cases together.  This would also cause the tranny to bind when you tried to manually operate.  

Hopefully, you have found the problem by the time you read this post...

Rick

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