Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Zip Ty K5 chain adjuster kit

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kxpegger:

--- Quote from: KXcam22 on January 25, 2009, 07:34:40 AM ---KXpegger,
  Can you explain for me a bit more how that failure happened.  How did the nut break like that? Thanks. Cam.

--- End quote ---


What happened was partly my fault. I loosened the chain block adjuster bolts then tried to loosen the axle nut. The chain adjuster bolt provides back up against the chain block adjuster to keep the axle flats from rotating and gouging out the chain block adjuster. I tried various methods to keep the axle from rotating while trying to remove the axle nut but I ended up having to use a Dremel to cut the nut then spread it with a chisel to get the axle out.

With the Honda or similar design this won't happen because two flats of the axle are captured in the chain block adjuster in two places and then backed by the swingarm in two places not the chain block adjuster bolt. My KX500AF/450F uses the same design as Suzuki. I've got some Works Connection chain block adjusters on the way for the AF.

Danger4u2:
The thing I like about the Zip Ty ,  the blocks stay on the bike when you remove the axle.  If you look at the block on the right you can see where the bolt goes into the block.  The slot is where the c- clip goes in and around the bolt to retain it in the block.  When removing the axle there is no need to undo the chain adjusting bolts.  The set I bought for KX500AF (KX450F chassis) has plastic pulls.  The set I bought for the 2004 K5 years ago are made of aluminum. The front pull is great for the front axle on the KX450F but not needed on the KX500 because the axle is removed with the wheel from the forks.
The small rounded aluminum part (axle guide) fits into the nut end of the axle to help center the axle when you stab it into the hub.  I used a little silicone to help keep it in the axle.  It's a tight fit but the silicone makes sure it stays.  The alum. cone goes in past the cotter key holes so I drilled mine.  Obviously you can no longer use a triangle kick stand on right side if you use the axle guide.

One thing to mention.  The kit comes with a roll pin so you can pin the axle block to the shark fin/brake caliper carrier.
DON'T do that. 
The brake caliper carrier must be removed from the swing arm when removing the wheel because the knobbie tire will not clear the brake caliper.

KXpegger do you use a torque wrench?  I always use a torque wrench when I'm at the comfort of my truck or shop.
It's real easy to over torque the axle nut.

Danger4u2:
I went and looked at the Works Connection blocks and they do have two flat spots to lock in the end of the axle.  Stronger than the Zip Ty and the stock blocks.  Unlike the Zip Ty blocks they come off with the axle.
http://www.worksconnection.com/store/product.html?prod_id=6159

Hick:
Thanks for the input I just got ordered them sounds like a solid product! How was they installation?

Danger4u2:
Very easy, the pull locks into the hollow of the axle like a bicycle goose neck.  There's a left and a right axle block.  The right block has a rounded area to accommodate a socket or end wrench on the axle nut.

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