Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
Vforce
serafin:
Could someone tell me how thick the mating surface of the Vforce reed block is compared to the stock reed block? I am running the stock reed block with the reed spacer and its a tight fit. Is anyone running the Vforce and reed spacer combo? What the fit like?
Serafin
kaw rider:
stock 1/8"
v-2 3/16"
250 v-3 1/4"
GDubb:
Found another old post on the reed valve topic...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,1100.0.html
Stewart- I know you said that you know the V2s work, but have you by any chance ever ran or dyno'd a RAD? I still have stock reeds and the ol V2 vs RAD on the K5 mystery still seems unsolved unless I missed something in the past.
-G
stewart:
rad valve stands for ,,,release at dumpster ,, v2 stands for ,,,victory 2owner,,, every reed block that i have tried with every set of reed pedal setup nothing has given me the great results as the v2s ,,,, i think i have worn out the intake bolts trying diffrent reeds ,, my buddy helping me and the key pad saying.... stick with v2s,,,,i think the v2 reeds larger tip surface area is what makes it hard to beat,,, i tried reeds every way and design came to 1 conclusion the v2 was the standard i could not make close to the same power with any thing else ,, they are a real advantage,,,they are not a gimmick
Hillclimb#42:
Thats a good one. Especially since I just removed my Rad Valve and can't sell it to anyone. I am sold on V-force from what you have stated previously. Lots of different reeds out there, but its important to notice new products and newly developed ones. V-force is an innovator. There's no Rad-valve II or III that I know of. A buddy used a 12-petal mossbarger reed cage for years, only to later see that the cage stuck all the way into tranfer ports and almost completely blocked off both of the vertical ports. He still has the paperwork with all of the power increases that they were supposed to deliver.
When installing my new v-force, I noticed a problem with pointing the "V-Force" logo up. It ran into the intake or somethin' and had to point the logo down. Is that what happened to yours? Is there a better way to cut those tabs to ensure a flat mating surface? That seemed crazy hackin' on a part that I'm ready to re-install.
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