Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Stripped K5 drain plug

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DEZADX:
Thanks everyone for your help.

Stewart, how much space is there between the bottom of the cases where the drain bolt is and nearest parts?  I was planning on using the same length bolt as the stock one I took out.  Thanks.

Motorrad:
When ever I have to drill, make new threads into a case I dont feel like splitting...

PRESSUREISE THE CRANK CASE with air.... best way is to have somone blow air into the crank case (blocking all outlets) so it blows all the air out the drain plug hole while you do the needed work... this will keep most of the metal shavings out of the motor (as it blows them out).... then a quick rinse/flush with mineral spirits will clean things out nice....

stewart:
to long a bolt   around 3/4  long hits the shifter fork drum

KXcam22:
Lots of good tips here.  Definitely use a short fine thread bolt - you can cut it shorter.  I coat my tap with grease to collect the aluminum particles then remove it often and clean it. A magnet won't work of course. Flushing with premix is a fogotten but excellent technique. The premix actually grabs the aluminum and floats it.  My best tip is to lockwire the drain plug.  Once I did that I lost the tendency to overtorque and this problem went away.  In my gallery there are some pics of where to anchor the lockwire. Hope this helps. Cam.

ps I once retapped a spark plug hole with nothing but grease on the tap and then premix to float out the remianing particles and it worked perfectly.

Danger4u2:
I drill a hole and J- B Weld a magnet in the end of the oil drain plug on all my vehicles.  If you do that before you start the repair, it will have time to set.

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