Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
KX 500 faults and fixes thread
demographic:
Right , my reason for starting this thread is to (hopefully) provide a resource for information on how to combat those little niggles that can be a problem to KX owners.
Please contribute your ideas cos that way it should grow and help us all out.
Fault
The top exhaust mount (under the tank) on just about ALL KX 500s breaks.
Fix
Get a welder to reinforce it with 1/8" by half an inch flat steel.
The chain seems to rub on the inside of the rear subframe (on mine anyway) so I cut a length of aluminium which is aproximatley half an inch by a sixteenth of an inch thick angle and about 6 or seven inches long (I am writing this at my girfriends house so don't have exact measurements) ans rivet or screw it onto the frame so it wears instead of your expensive subframe.
Destrys bike has this mod cos I have seen a picture in a MX mag and could just make it out on the piccy.
Fault
Aparentley they also can shear woodruff keys which allows the flywheel to slip round and then your timing is out.
This can be caused because the crank end taper is not an exact match for the tapered hole in the flywheel
Kickback anyone :shock:
Fix
Remove your flywheel and woodruff key from the crank end taper.
Put a dab of valve grinding paste onto the taper and then put the flyeheel (minus the woodruff key) back on but don't put the nut on.
Lap the two surfaces together by turning the flywheel until they are evenly matt in colour.
Wipe ALL the grinding paste off the taper and use carb cleaner to get it out of the inside of the flywheel cos it's a bugger to get out otherwise.
Reasemble it all and tell the folk with YZ 490s about what you have done cos they have this problem also (acording to Eric Gorrs book anyway).
Thats all I can think of for now but I will post any more if I think of any.
Please add your KX faults and fixes to this thread and any suggestions you come up with :)
Paul:
The leaky countershaft seal. Not really the countershaft seal but the o-ring behind the metal collar.
I took the metal collar out, tossed the o-ring into the trash can and took alittle metal from one end of the collar. I then took another o-ring (not the expensive little booger from Kawasaki, one from Home Depot :wink:
This o-ring has the following specs:
1-1/8X7/8X3/32 it is a #17 o-ring from Home Depot stock number 35734B
I used the "Scientific Method" of grind a tiny bit and check the fit until it fit well, so I don't have an exact amount to remove from the collar. This mod had prevented that leak for well over a year.
demographic:
Just thought of another.
If your like me and think that a Boyeson ignition cover looks better and more importantly, stronger that the cheesy plastic item they have standard. you should be aware that they don't fit over the 14 ounce Steahly flywheel weight I have fitted............
bugger :roll:
teamgreen500:
DRAIN PLUGS.....or.....actually, Drain Plug threads in CASES!
Simple fix:
1. Engage brain before fidling with it (Don't OVER torque the bolt...that's a good start)
2. Get an Aluminum Drain Plug with a magnet in it (Zip-Ty...cheap v. fixing your cases!) The Aluminum (Aluminium, for Sir John...) is less likely to strip the threads outta the cases in the event you missed item -1-.
3. Drill and Safety-wire your plug. This will aid in your confidence since you didn't get to "Crank" on it like you wanted to! :shock:
In my "Introduction" where I listed all the goodies on my bike...I failed to mention the "Insert"(!) in my cases due to my TEAM-MATE (An educated engineer, non-the-less!) tore the threads out when new! :oops:
Best of Luck....I should be riding today...no rest for the Wicked, I guess! :evil:
Manny
mikesmith:
The linkage likes grease,especially the small linkage bearing in the shock.The K5 sucks a lot of air so with that you get a lot of dirt,clean your air filter or check it each ride(I know its a maintenance thing,not a flaw.)I rerouted my clutch cable and keep it lubed,extended my clutch arm 8mm(8 or 10,it was a long tme ago so not sure) and bought a cluth perch with an easy adjust and a bearing in the lever.I didnt do this but I hear polishing the actuater rod helps to.The sub frame mounts near the tank needs some gussets added.You should keep fresh o-rings in the pipe and high temp silicone to keep the pipe from rattling.Foot peg mounts will spread over time,use Terrycable/Ty-Davis or ProCircuit mounts(up date to newer style if your on a older bike and having spare foot peg springs is a good idea.And of course if you have the older kick starter get a new one and keep the old one as a spare,I just ordered one after braking mine in a bad place(but do things ever brake in a good place?)cost me $94.36!Id write more but its off to work.
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