Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

pros/cons x-ring chain?

(1/7) > >>

Hillclimb#42:
 Anyone ever heard of these chains with no master-link, or for you guys across the pond connecting link?
I ordered a sprocket/ chain combo for the 250 and was informed the standard o-ring chain was out of stock, but they could upgrade to a x-ring chain. When it arrived it was a very impressive gold and looked a little heavier duty. I broke out the new chain breaker, put it all together, and looked for the clip for about 30 min. I was about to look thru the trash can, when I looked at the little master link pak and it had printed on there that there was no clip. It said it was a rivot type connecting link. I actually used the chain breaker to press the link together. which brings up another question. How do you guys press your master links together? It seems getting it together takes as long as mounting sprockets, cutting chain and adjusting chain does combined. Anyways, its been on there for about a month, and its pretty hard to even find on the chain, except for small circles left from my chain breaker. I thought I was the only one who had never heard of such a thing, but it turns out, that noone has seen or used this chain "upgrade." Anyone use these, or heard of them, afraid it will fly off or know why its better?

FuriouSly:
Rivet type link is common.  Basically if you run a good quality front/rear sprocket that will last a season the theory is to replace the combo (chain/sprockets) at the same time.  Or whenever your sprockets look tired.  You need to have a rivet tool to properly set the stake or the link will be loose and fall off resulting in a most unpleasant situation.

What I do is always order the chain I run with a standard master link, it usually is an option.  If you are unable to you can usually order from the same supplier a standard master link for around $5-$10 and dump the rivet link.

There are alot of opinions out there on the life span of a good quality chain.  I run softer Renthal (and other makes) aluminum rear sprockets since this prolongs the lifespan of my chains ($30 on ebay for a sprocket compared to $115 for a chain). The rearend is submerged in sand at times during my dune rides causing increased wear.  I have a new chain and sprockets on standby and will compare the old chain to the new one by length (sometimes I will measure the overall length of the new chain before installing if I remember).  If the old one is about a half a link longer (2 1/2 percent rule of thumb longer than new) then it is time to replace it.  But usually when I put on the new rear sprocket (three times a season and once for the front a season) I just see if I can pull the chain away from the teeth after it is set close to sag.  If you can pull the chain more than 1/4" or rock it back and forth more than and 1/8" its time to change it.  Of course this is just my way and not scientific by any means.  I use a D.I.D., EK, or Renthal X-Ring and get two years out of the chains.

Sly

Here is the motion pro kit:    http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/chain_breaker_and_riveting_tool/

BDI:
The rivet link chains are more commonly used on street bikes and large cc enduro style bikes. After you press the master link together It has to be staked with a special tool like the one FurisouSly posted a picture of. Did you flare the pins with a link tool? I did not see anywhere the mention of this very important step, not doing this Is like not tightening your axle nut, not good.If you have not flared the pins with special tool do not ride the bike anymore until you have done this. :-o

Johnniespeed:
 I have been using x-ring chains for about six years because I dont like to over oil my chains. I have not used the rivot style master link yet, but have heard that they are stronger. I simply use a regular x-ring master link.   My last chain lasted for over three hundred gallons of fuel. They outlast sprockets and sprockets. I am using the D.I.D. brand and have no experience with other brands.
  Make sure your master link pins have been peined over well so the end plate does not fall off. Or just put a regular x-ring master link on it.

The Flyin Hawaiian:
I use a small closed end wrench and a pair of vise grips to press the outter plate on. Put the closed end of the wrench over the pin and against the plate. Place the vise grips on the wrench and the other side of the pin and press it together.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page