Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Break In Secrets.

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kaw rider:
if you have fresh plating then you might what to take the proper step on breaking in. Had a max power plate job that didn't seat rings.

kaw rider:
Doug here you go

The idea of the Lawnboy or chainsaw oils is that they are ashless, that means phosphate free. Phosphates are what causes the cylinder to glaze under no load conditions. High octane race fuel has a ton of phosphate. so best to avoid it during break in. 87 oct. no lead, while not phosphate free has much less.

from max power site.

For 4-Stroke engines we recommend high quality petroleum based motorcycle oil. Many of the non-synthetic OEM engine oils work well and allow the rings to seat quickly. Do not use full synthetic or semi-synthetic oils for break in they are too slippery and keep the rings from seating on the bore. For 2-Stroke engines we recommend Yamalube R mixed at 32:1, we have no confidence in wild 50:1 or 80:1 claims by oil manufacturers. Oil is cheap and piston and cranks are not.

Did your plating look like this. This engine was put together to check everything. The top end was installed with the piston rings on the piston inside of a lightly oiled bore. I rotated the crankshaft a few times and started to notice this pattern. Just from hand movement of the crankshaft the plating started to score.

kaw rider:
Or was it this bad.

DoldGuy:
K-R,
It looks very much like the first photo pictured as it has the same pattern above the transfers & the exhaust boost ports although that doesn't look like a K5 cylinder. I measured the ring thicknes at .046 & the ring width @ .136 at many locations (even were the marks correspond) and appears to have NO wear. I don't have a dial bore gauge to measure the diameter of the cylinder to confirm it does or doesn't have high spots in the plating, but after checking the ring width & the amount of light visible with the ring installed in the cylinder I would think it is the plating &     not the rings. I will order another set of rings & check with also having the bore checked for high spots / out of roundness. This motor has maybe 4 hours on it & judging by the amount of compression it has when starting (I will NOT try to start without my MX boots even with the Compression Relase) never would have thought the rings were not seated. This plate job was from Max Power & I paid a very high cost on this one & will call them to get their response & will post. As previously posted this motor has great bottom & mid (I don't know how) with very modest topend, hoping this will be a huge difference when corrected.
DoldGuy

Goat:
My method is basically identical to mototune's method. Only difference is I start the bike warm it to normal temps, shut it down, check all head and cylinder bolts/studs and check the spark plug. Once my check is done I start and warm the engine again then ride it like I would normally ride it. Never blown or seized an engine in the 16 years I've been wrenching on bikes/sleds. I also always run 32:1 mix, and don't run synthetic for at least 40 hours of run time, Premium pump gas with no additives until 40+ hours of run time then I will add Outlaw octane boost. I change my oil frequently. Usually every 2 rides depending on conditions.

People have always b!tched at me for doing break in this way because it wasn't by the book. I hate "taking it easy" and when I would rebuild my engines everything looked cleaner and the pistons would last longer when I broke it in my way. I'm glad to see someone else actually did some research to show it works.

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