Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

carbon fiber clutch plates?

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kx666:
they dont have nearly the levels of  as the oils do. they also use different additives

Polar-Bus:

--- Quote from: moreccsthanlbs on November 08, 2006, 01:08:42 PM ---hi all, new to site. i have a 2000 kx500, i need to buy new clutch kit...are the carbom fiber clutch plates worth the xtra dough? do they stand up like they say they do?...i also read that alot of you run atf type f instead of oil? thanx in advance for your help

--- End quote ---

I've been running OEM Kawasaki plates for over 20 years, and never had a single problem. I tried Barnetts once, and too "grabby" and the springs are BRUTALLY stiff. As far ATF, I don't use it, I like Spectro Clutch Saver SX. I do know many people do use ATF with no problems either, so it's all choice. I personally se NO reason for carbon fibre plates on a typical stock engine.

FuriouSly:
I personally have Barnett/EBC Carbon Fiber clutch packs with steel discs in all my bikes and love them.  For example, my 12 Y/O daughters Yamaha YFZ450 went through the stock clutch in one year.  The Carbon setup in hers is going on two years with minimal slack adjustment to compensate for wear.  And talk about no fade great grab starts?  No comparison.

For my 2-strokes I use only Pro-Honda HP Trans Oil SAE 80W/85W.  Sorry about the red wing, but I do have a CR500 and this oil is by far my only choice for tranny/clutch, even in my KX and RM.

If your bike is stock and do mostly trail riding with little clutching or lugging, stock clutch is more than fine.  My KX5 runs a modded motor in the sand and the stock clutch won't hold up to the power transfer of a paddle tire.  The clutch is the weak link in the power to the ground ratio and the better the pack, the better the power.  You have aluminum discs in your bike??  Toss out the setup and get carbon with steel discs and you will never complain of slippage or silvery gear oil again.

Cost got you worried??  If you put the hurt on the clutch because of riding style or motor mods then think of it this way...  Barnett/EBC for $120 and lasts 3 seasons or a low end/stock set for $40 and change every season?  Works out the same but performance/fade is much better.  Put three heavier springs (either the mediums or heavys) in the with three stock.  Clutch pull can be setup pretty good with the alternating of the stock, medium, and heavy springs in groups of three in offset pattern.

Lots of people don't realise how much their clutch is slipping (losing power) or shifting crappy (hot plates on hot discs with cheap oil).

Sly

moreccsthanlbs:
money isn't the issue, i just like to have the best parts on my bike, and b4 i buy i needed some info..thanks 4 all the responses...after i posted my question, i realized it has been about 3 yrs on the plates..so it's def time :) i think i'm goin with the carbon fiber, cuz i'm super hard on it...as far as the atf, i had never heard of it being used instead of oil(i use plain castrol 10/30, and bike runs as strong as the day i rolled it out of the dealership)...thank you again for your responses

kx666:

--- Quote from: FuriouSly on November 09, 2006, 06:49:35 AM ---For my 2-strokes I use only Pro-Honda HP Trans Oil SAE 80W/85W.  Sorry about the red wing, but I do have a CR500 and this oil is by far my only choice for tranny/clutch, even in my KX and RM.


--- End quote ---

Sly,
i used to use HP 80/85 for years. it's not bad, and it is very inexpencive. have you tried Dumonde LWHS, it will free up a few horses and make shifting much easier. i have yet to see a motor apart that was using it but i have heard from a few other guys in the shop and that is all they will use. but it is not cheep and thay are a small company, i think they are located somewhere in WA??

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