Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

ATF as Gear Lube

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holeshot buddy:
atf in general is a good oil for gearboxes
and clutches 8-)
you must change it every ride if
you have alloy plates in clutch
the only negative i have seen
is long term use wear on gears and shafts
the hardening goes off them :-o
but it is long term
i also have a yz465h and i can only run it on atf
or the clutch slips :cry:

Hillclimb#42:
My guy did mention that the aluminum plates will contaminate a transmission and that he would always run steels. Hillclimbers may have to be on the forefront of invention, and thats why I get on here to add to the pool of info. I still have to have work farmed out to stay in the realm of reasonable risk. I could start o-ringing heads or splitting cases and working on transmissions, but that is a risky endeavor when I have no experience with these things and a race most weekends. I just want to know what my guy is basically doing when I drop off my motor. I don't want to just tell him to do whatever it takes to fix it. Its my understanding that the gears don't have bushings or grooved for lube, but is a rare problem that I had. Its scary though to have that squeal, while in neutral and then all locked up like that.
  What about a way to flush debris and goop from transmission? Would it help clean it to drain after the motor is warmed up? or lay the bike over for say 10-15 mins?

BDI:
I ran aluminum plates in my k5 for years and years with no problems at all. The only thing I can really say about the aluminum plates being bad is they wear faster then the fiber plates. Other then that they have less rotational mass and they don't wear out the clutch hub. Steel plates are very clutch hub hungry and add 65% more weight ( over the aluminum plates)to the clutch.

bigbellybob:
the fact that the alloy wears fast is why they contaminate the fluid so fast. its going to get the 10-30 contaminated just as fast as the ATF. i was a the guy that would never run anything in my bike but 80w wet clutch gear oil. after running B&M trick shift full syn there is no going back. i always had problem shifting through neutral. after the switch shifting seems smoother and i have not accidentally hit neutral. it also seemed to free up some extra pony's. i recently watched a 5.0 mustang go low 10 looking into the 9's with a T5 transmission filled with AFT that sealed the deal for me.

BDI:
I still do the 80wt thing but after many, many years of good luck with it I'm scared to try something else. My trany is a very expensive and trustworthy partner in my life. I don't feel the need to go experimenting with it. I can't recall ever losing a race and saying, d**n it if only I had different tranny oil.  I have conciderd using mobile one full synthetic gear oil like you would put in the rear diff of a car or truck but I'm not sure if it would be clutch compatible.I havn't even done the research It was one of those passing thoughts.

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