Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

what mod for power ?

<< < (2/4) > >>

alan:
Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer!Reed Spacer! :-D :-D :-) :-) 8-) 8-) 8-) :lol: :lol: :lol:

CHEAP POWER! :-D

gowen:
Top-end power... Wow! Where to start. I guess with how deep your pockets are? :-)

A Rad Valve (Boyesen) is a great start to help curve the powerband into the top-end range. Also, FMF's Desert Pipe helped alot. Slightly retarding the ignition also helps, but be VERY careful in that regard as you can seriously hurt the engine. Those are in the $100-$200 range.

Also, again, your jetting is the cheapest way. I was also at a 168+ jet. But, if your pilot jet (low throttle range) is rich and your needle is rich, your top-end is going to be seriously weak. Start from the pilot (No throttle-1/4th throttle range) and find an idle and move up the jetting chain. Three MAIN parts of the carb in jetting is the pilot/needle (& clip)/main jet. Check out the jetting thread. It's long, but will go in depth on jetting.. Maybe skip to the end and read backwards, because the beginning is just us trying to figure out the issue I was having a few years ago.

OK, on to the real top-end stuff:

Bigbore - Make sure you port for top-end, or else the more displacement the more low-end you usally achive.
Porting - Usally comes with a bigbore. Make sure you want mid-top range.
Headwork - Cut for lower compression to give more topend range.
Crankwork for high RPMS (balance the crank so it doesn't fall apart).
PVL Ignition system.. Expensive but you will NEVER go back, it is crazy top-end power.

If you are serious about engine work, check out Ericgorr.com he $500 and you can get a 520kit, any port you desire, that includes plating, your choice of headwork, and a piston kit. Then it is like $150 for a hot-rod kit including your crank balancing.

Gearing: you will be fine stock. I'm 14/46 and happy with a 19in. tire right now.

jpinhb:
Well thanks for all the info guy's . I am adding all this info and web sites to my favorites folder for easy access . I have already spent too much this week to consider a big bore kit , also my motor has a recent rebuild , but I am going to price a RAD VALVE or a v-force delta 2 reed setup tomorrow .
I just ordered new fenders , chain and sprocket kit , air filter , wheel bearing kits , clutch kit , carb vent kit , and last week I got a new IMS 3.7 tank . I am also going to price the ignition system that timbowe and gowen mentioned .

gowen:
http://www.pro-flo.com/proflo_pvl_ignitions.htm

Best price by far! I believe I paid in the mid-high $400's and got a deal then. They've come down on price. It is an entire system, which consists of a inner rotating rotor, stator plate and all, coil and CDI. Awesome product, by far.. and I mean FAR!! is the best source for explosive top-end.

Also, the RAD is better than the Delta if you want all top-end. The V-Force is great for improving low-mid range. The Rad moves the curve to the top.  :mrgreen: Check E-bay, I've seen them run in the hi $70's to low $50s.

jpinhb:
Hey gowen ,, thanks for the link .
My buddy gets me a deal so I 'll have him price me the rad valve tomorrow and thanks for the headsup on the v-force .

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page