Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Winter maintenance

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5dracing:
I use the Amsoil dominator oil. I tested this in my sons CR 85 (unscientifically) and he did not know I was doing it. One day in mid july he came to me and asked if I rebuilt the top end because the bike had more power. All I did was change the oil to the Amsoil. I went synthetic to synthetic so I did'nt think anything of it. Short story, I've used it ever since. With the oil at 32:1, I definately am getting a good seal at the ring which shows when compression cold was at 205. The 85 engine just had a failure after 2 full seasons on the bottom end using the Amsoil at 32:1. The large bearing on the connecting rod chipped the bearing housing. It let go when he was riding it at 35deg in a sloppy snow. I think the mixture went lean from the cold.  He ran top third of his class all year (MX).

hoopty:
Hughes, the real difference is the technology. Amsoil Pro has a far superior (as do all the synthetics) shear strength than any conventional could pray for. That, not the amount of oil but it's resistance to shear is what provides the protection to the lower end on a 2 stoke.

If it's any consolation, my 500 hits Glamis religiously with Amsoil Pro mixed at 100:1 and I've never had a single issue. Ever.

hughes:
Cool. I am going to stick with my Yamalube 2-R(32:1) it's the cleanest oil you can burn. I will try to take a photo here this week of my piston that has about 15 trail rides on it and you can see what I am talking about. I use Yamaha's ring-free to which helps clean carbon. I have never tried synthetics oils but I guess it's what you trust and have used.

Timbowe:
Heres another vote for Amsoil. 20 years no probs.

KXcam22:
5D,
   Sorry to cause a furor. I wasn't aware there was an amsoil product that was mixed richer than 80:1. All the snowmobile guys where I live run their particular flavour of amsoil at 100:1 (and very happy).  The aluminum clutch plates leave quite a bit of deposit behind although I was amazed at how well they handled tha abuse I gave them.  When I rebuilt my 92 all the trans bearings were ruined from the aluminum deposits, especially the tiny waterpump ones.  The DP kit I got had steel and carbon fiber plates.  As for KX500 top end life, alot depends on factors such as how well/often you clean your air filter and using good 2-stroke oil.  I recently rebuilt my 92 for the first time after 12 years (about 400 hours est. (+/- a bunch)) of running Belray MC-1 at 60:1.  Top end was pristine, I almost could have reused the piston (except for that small crack I found!).  I never did a compression test though.  In my race career, the first season I used Belray MC-1, I got 104 motos out of my Maico 400 on the same top end, at 85:1.  I thought that was pretty good, far from the 2-3 rebuilds I'd normally have done.  Been a Belray fan(atic) ever since.  Anyway I think the most important thing about oil is to pick a good one (there's lots) and stick with it. There will aways be the leaner/richerand mineral/synthetic arguments (to keep life interesting) but I know that I will always agree with Timbowe & Hoopty on using synthetic oils at a lean ratio.  Cam.

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