Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Ordering Sprockets and chain...suggestions please

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hoopty:
114 links is fine for 13, 14, 15 / 47

demographic:

--- Quote from: Kaveman42 ---How do the chain sizes work? What size would I need for my 1989 KX500 if I go with 13/49

I measured my chain and its about 72 inches.
--- End quote ---


Use the gearing calculator in the download section and after you feed the info in it tells you how long the chain should be :)

Jobs a good un :wink:

gowen:
Your kidding right?  :lol: You want to see my s**t pile of aluminum sprokets? I finally gave up and moved to steel and will never go back, as I was using 3-5 sprokets a season and am now down to 1 steel for the last year and 1/2. Absolutely no problems and there was 0 effect from it. I currently have a sunstar sproket now and it rocks. It is cheap and lasts 5 times longer than aluminum. I am also on a quest to find more power on my KX and I will promise, it isn't in the sprocket. Not on a 500cc at least, but than again, I've put steel on ALL my 250's too, no diffrence in power delivery. Now the 125's? It doesn't matter, they don't have the power to even touch it. LOL  :lol:


--- Quote from: afritts4u ---I just ordered and received a steal sunstar. Got it from Denniskirk for $27. It would make a good dumbell weight. I would have returned it if I did not have to pay for shipping. A few mfg like sidewinder claim an increase of 2 rear wheel horsepower by using a lighter sprocket. The rear sprocket is both unsprung and rotating, double the effects of extra weight!

So my advice go with a hybrid like sidewinder or an aluminum. Im running my steal at the moment and it feels like I have a flywheel weight. Makes the rear brake feel like its doesnt work too!
--- End quote ---

hughes:
I would use steel sprockets due to the fact they last alittle longer and are cheap to replace. The only way I think you would notice the weight of the steel sprocket was if you were a pro level rider. I would go with an 0-ring type chain. The roller pins are pre lubed and sealed with 0-rings. Just wash and spray with wd-40 for rust protection.

Try this:

1) Adding one or two teeth to front or rear sprocket = Add two links to stock chain length.

2)Subtracting one tooth from front or rear sprocket = Use stock chain length.

3) Adding two or more teeth to front or rear sprocket = Add two links for every two teeth.

4) subtracting two or more teeth from front or rear sprockets = Subtract two links for every two teeth subtracted.

I just ordered a 49 rear sprocket. This will be my first for gearing my bike.
You will just half to buy a couple of sprockets and try some things to see what you want. Rockymountainmc.com has front sprockets for $6.99 you could get a 13 front and run it to see if that is how low of gearing you want. Make sure you buy a 520 model chain.

Timbowe:
I've been using steel front 14 O ring Regina or similar chain and Renthal 46 rear alloy sprocket. Done lots of hard work on the beach wich is about the most testing of inviroments for chain/ sprockets. Had good run out of them. The key to good life is I believe is to keep the chain well adjusted and lubed. I mostly lube when the chain is hot after a good hour or so of work. The libe has an easier job of penetrating the links. The sprockets only wear when the chain become stretched. Steel is going to wear at the same rate as alloy is the chain is maladjusted and unlubed and tired. Also unsprung weight is reduced with an alloy rear. Flywheel effect is reduced noticably. Todays good alloys I find are pretty good compared to the old cheap blank drill your own holes models of 10 years back. You pay for what you get. [Usally] IMHO.

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