Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
Fixing problems with new (old) bike. - Running
MeanGreenMachine:
Alright guys, aside from starting the day breaking off the kickstart lever :roll: (how much stronger is the improved part? Guess it's time for one), I bit the bullet and tore down the bike today. I've never taken a bike apart, but there didn't seem to be much to it. No unpleasant surprises so far, everything looks ok.
I currently have the engine out sitting on the bench and will start taking it apart tomorrow. The top end seems fairly straight forward. As for splitting the case halves, do you need a puller tool, or is there another way if your kx-fu is good enough? If the main bearing journals in the case are pounded/spun out, can the case be saved or is it time for new parts?
sandblaster:
There is all sorts of ways to split your cases...
I do it this way...
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=66
The newer kick lever design is stronger...
Get it apart and measure the bearing journals in the cases and tell us the measurements.... Then we can give you options :-)
Motorrad:
leakdown test before you take appart.
MeanGreenMachine:
Ok guys. As I expected, the top end came apart without any problems. The piston is an "ART" piece, size "A" that showed some light scratches but no apparent problems. There was no chamfer on any of the ports... Could the plating be stock?
The jug appears to be in good shape, but has a small area of flaking coating and 2 fine cracks between the main exhaust port and the 2 small KIPS booster ports on each side... The plating guys can weld these before plating, right? The KIPS parts have some carbon buildup but moved freely. There's a little bit of gear wear but it doesn't seem like it will effect much.
The rod has some slight movement on the big end if you pull up and down on it, but also rocks and slides side to side noticeably. That's probably part of the bearing noise I was hearing at idle. I haven't been able to split the case yet, but the crank has noticeable play on the clutch side bearing, which I guess makes sense since that's where power is taken off the crank.
Somewhere along the way I found another problem that concerns me - the splines on the output shaft that the chain sprocket goes on is very badly worn... I missed it until now. Do I have to replace the entire shaft/gears to fix it? Honestly, at this point, I'm afraid to split the cases and see what's inside, as it's clear that every part on this bike is worn completely out...
MeanGreenMachine:
Ok guys, I've made some progress today. I bought a couple 75mm long M6x1.0 bolts with the idea of screwing them into the stator holes, and using one of those crows foot shaped harmonic balancer pullers I had laying around. Problem was that the bolts were too short and the 2 opposing slots in the puller weren't long enough. I ended up cutting the head of the M6 bolts then threading them to make a stud. Then I put a 3/8x24 bolt on the lathe, drilled a hole into the end and tapped to accept the stud. Or you could just buy longer bolts, but I was bored at work. Then I went to Autozone and for $15 bucks picked up this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Timing-gear-and-pulley-puller/_/N-26b8?itemIdentifier=231208&_requestid=1684868
I used an open end wrench and carefully applied pressure, and sure enough, the cases popped right open, no problem. Try this at your own risk: I can't guarantee that 2 bolts will be strong enough, or won't strip the threads out of your cases or even break them. Use common sense and be careful!
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