Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
lengthening the clutch arm
Rick:
I always use stock cable, and the $100 fly clutch lever with ball bearings on the adjuster and bearings in the lever. My clutch pull rivals the KX125. Super easy, and no clutch arm work.
Rick
KXcam22:
Scott,
I probably wasn't very clear in my explanation. I haven't done the 10mm myself, only read about it as a recommended mod in magazines. I did 5mm, was shooting for 8mm but carried away with the file. I think there is probably lots of room for 10mm. For extra ease use Ricks fly perch and the 10MM. Cam.
gwcrim:
I thought I'd bump this thread up again because I've been thinking. :idea:
Follow along:
The clutch drags. It doesn't seem to want to disengage fully. (This is a common problem on dirt bikes to a degree right?)
If it doesn't like to disengage fully, that means that you need more action on the lever at the engine.
If you lengthen the arm at the engine, you'll have more leverage for a lighter pull. But as a result, you'll have less action in the throw.
If you want to get more throw/action to promote full clutch disengagement, you'd actually want to shorten the lever at the engine. Wouldn't you?
KXcam22:
GWCRIM,
That is exactly correct. Mind you I haven't had a clutch that drags since the old Maico days. It was a good excuse to use on the starting line though. Cam.
Rick:
For those with dragging clutches, it is worth noting that if you still have the aluminum clutch plates, this could be the problem. The aluminum plates wear quickly, and as they wear, the fiber plate will leave a ridge on the outside edge that will catch as you try and disengage the clutch. (Hmmmm, not sure that was clear, but chew on it a while, it might sound better after reading it a few times :lol: ). As I have noted in other posts, I immediately replace the aluminum plates with steel plates, so have eliminated this as a problem.
Rick
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version